Molecule 01 + Clary Sage

Some time ago, I had a conversation with a fellow fragrance enthusiast who argued that Geza Schoen's Escentric Molecules project is not true perfume, and certainly not art, as it was argued that simply throwing together a material or two doesn't constitute "composition." I argued that the number of materials (much like the materials used) does not measure the value of a final product and this is tantamount to accusing Mark Rothko, Ellsworth Kelly, or Barnett Newman of not making proper art as their work appears so simple that anyone can do it and lacks "richness" or "realism." Even I hesitated to really sit with the works of Escentric Molecules as I assumed that its minimalism would even leave me underwhelmed, and I am one of the biggest fans of both minimalist visual art and minimalist music. It's funny how I had my own biases inherent to smell that had me dismissing such an approach in perfume. At the risk of attributing perhaps too much meaning behind the concept, there is something that I could regard as spiritual and meditative in the pure tones of this most recent series, Molecule 01 +. Here, Iso E Super is paired with Clary Sage, and yes, there are in fact other materials here, including bergamot, and what I discern as hedione, so materials-wise, there are in fact more parts in motion. It begins with a lucid clary sage. Being well-acquainted with the essential oil and absolute of clary sage, this is entirely the essence of Salvia sclarea at its start. Many confuse clary sage with common sage (Salvia officinalis) or white sage (Salvia apiana) and will expect a smell similar to that of culinary sage or a smudge stick—crisp, bracing, camphoraceous, coniferous, and wormwood-esque (thujone). Clary sage, however, while sharing the same genus, is quite different. It aromatic profile is far rounder, black-tea-like, somewhat floral, with softer herbal undertones and even hints of tobacco. It has long held much value in flavoring and aromatherapy, and is often that ace in the hole, so to speak, when composing an aromatic or fougère. It seldom is given center stage, but here it presented practically unadorned, until subtle shifts as the Iso E Super and other elements extending the sensation begin to eclipse it. Herein lies the brilliance: Schoen's exercise in employing the great shape-shifter that is Iso E in exalting a material is an act of defiance in what perfume should be, while giving grace to a botanic material. Could anyone do this like one could claim they could paint with simple lines and color? It's doubtful that just anyone could, and Geza Schoen most certainly isn't just anyone. I enthusiastically recommend this for devotees of clary sage.

Molecule + Clary Sage didn’t wow me until my own mother tried it on after I gave the sample away to her. I feel like the EM experience can only really be appreciated on someone else due to almost instant nose blindness. She smelt incredible and it filled the whole kitchen. Quite earthy and herbaceous with a zing - almost like a mix between the patchouli and ginger one.

So, this is now Escentric Molecules' FIFTH scent offering in 10 months' time. This from a company which it took 14 years to put out their first 10 perfumes. They have released 12 perfumes in the last 6 years alone. So either things are not going very well or they're going extremely well and they're about to get bought by a bigger house. Not all of these recent offerings have had existence validity, especially looking at the M01+ Cistus and E02 Extrait, even if they haven't been outright bad they've felt like a bit of a money grab, and this one coming out like a MONTH after the first Cologne One, which sounded like it was going to be a big thing but got lost in the noise when they immediately started advertising for this one instead, felt like a bit of a lost cause. Adding to frustration is also that me as a devoted fan got an early email saying this was now available to order "before everyone else" , and so of course I jumped on it and have actually had it in my possession for a good three weeks now before writing this review - but only in the second week of availability get a free 8,5ml sample of it become available with it when buying from the official store, and as of right now they're also throwing in a body lotion for free, which, you know, would have been kind to offer the most loyal fan base as well. So apart from the marketing hysteria and delivery cheat, I'll say the box is, again, the nice new one of the last two (now three) M01+ offerings, where the inner box slides put to the side, which can be done with a firm grip without risking it ever falling on the floor. And the scent itself? Leaves me with some mixed emotions, and not the excellent Byredo kind. The very first time I sprayed it I LOVED it because it reminded me a lot about one of their favourite scents of mine, the M01+ Black Tea. Funnily enough, my delivery mule though that it smelled like the M01+ Black Tea WITHOUT the bitter note, whereas I was inclined to say the complete opposite, that this echoed ONLY the bitter (but fresh) note of the M01+ Black Tea. As my testing week went on, however, I found myself thinking of like a bitter yellow jagged leaf to described this scent, it's very coarse and sharp and while invigorating I'd go so far as to say that the very first impression is unpleasantly acrid until it evolves into this sharp moss kind of note that still doesn't really evoke my first impression of M01+ Black Tea anymore, but is something unique, for better or worse. What I WILL say though is that it seems like this note after some time plays EXTREMELY well with the Iso-e-super. When it has become a skin scent, a couple of hours at most, it becomes possibly THE most addictive skin scent to constantly want to sniff out of all of the Escentric Molecules line of perfumes! I don't know how to describe it other than that it elevates, strengthens and sweetens the pencil shavings wood smell of the Iso-e-super in an absolutely fantastic way, and THAT state of this perfume is what I'd want everyone to wait around for to get to try. Amazing. So yeah, some bad, some good, but in general, too many. Take a breather now, Geza. You've done enough for quite a while.

This is lovely. It is an unsweet, transparent, and relaxed fragrance that provides a clean, aromatic aura. It’s cocooning but fresh, there’s something addictive about it. This wouldn’t be such an easy reach. I don’t find anything about this offensive at all, and I actually think it was brilliantly done.

Man, I've tried about half of the molecule+ series and the only one that really stands out is the black tea. That one is beautiful. The rest just kinda smell very similar to each other?? They're not bad, just kinda redundant. I like ginger one a lot but I wish the ginger lasted. The black tea seems tp be the only one where the additional note actually stays as long as the iso e super.