Suédois

I'm discovering a lot of happy solace in my sample of Suedois, so much that it may need a place in my collection. The blending of notes is superb and contrastingly culminate into something of comforting simplicity. Suedois is my escape -- it's my indulgence in a hazelnut Alexander (a twist on the classic brandy Alexander) with a sprinkling of nutmeg on top. Creamy, woody, nutty sensuality that puts me in a euphoric, creative fog before I even notice its narcotic effect. Sipped in front of a gently crackling fire; clean, sweet, musky, heavy animal pelts -- no sexy bearskin rug for two, but a solo retreat to a cabin where I might start my next writing project or fill my sketchbook with flowing images in soft charcoal. This scent is addictively compelling, strong yet gentle, leathery, cozy and secure.

Suedois has a very very complex opening. Upon initial application, one gets blasted with an extremely dense and rich blend of labdanum, castoreum, suede, syrupy raspberry, resinous balsamic notes, some heavy spiciness, and a sort of milky, woody sweetness. It's everything at once and it's kind of a lot to take in. I'm not so sure the raspberry fits in as it gives the whole opening a "witch-doctor's cough syrup" vibe. Thankfully it doesn't hang around too long and the drydown moves away from the medicinal facets and into a much more pleasant direction. It has this strangely familiar quality, but I can't seem to place what it reminds me of. The suede is the main player, but theres a very noticeable labdanum and castoreum/birch smokiness that is supported by a strange milky-sweet sandal base that's compelling. Polarizing, i would imagine as it's kind of the distilled essence of the milkiest facets of sandalwood and that has the ability to turn stomachs (including my own) on occasion. The far drydown is a soft patchouli, suede, and sandalwood combo thats nice enough. All in all I really like Suedois, but I don't think I can see myself reaching for it too much. The sandal-suede-focused drydown is my favorite part, It's tempting to compare this brand to slumberhouse for their dark, thick extraits and their sort of southern gothic/black metal atmosphere/apothecary aesthetic, but I think Euphorium lacks the precision and focus of the better slumberhouses. That being said, this corner of the niche world could use a few more players so the brand is a welcome addition and their fragrances are worth a try from anyone who likes to smell dark, complex or mysterious. 6.5/10

Very nice animalic ambergris suede. The opening is beautiful and sweet and creamy suede, ehich develops into a sharper animalic as the ambergris comes out. I get a lot of sharp ambergris from this, and that saltiness is a wonderful counterpoint to the sweetness of the cream. I personally think dialing down the ambergris a bit could make it rounder and a bit more balanced, but that's just preference. Still a beautiful composition. This is the best amongst the 3 I sampled from this house, the other 2 being Flocked and Gilded, and Chocolatl - both of which I have severely negative opinions about. I guess that's indie houses for you; it's about the art, and that I can completely appreciate. I've recently started looking for a leather scent I'll love, and this could be a strong candidate. Not a blind buy, I think, as the ambergris is quite prominent, but something worth a try.

I don't always have the best luck with leather scents, but this is clearly leather. Other notes are there too. The elemi gives a rubbery note that occasionally makes it lean pleather. The "new shoes and something sexy" someone else commented is actually pretty accurate. The myrrh gives a lovely sweet vibe.The balsm and castorum gives a sharpness. As it settles the sandalwood gives a powdery cloud and a bit of dark patchouli peeks out. But all those extra notes are just texture supporting leather. Upon revisiting (January outdoors) the leather scent seems to fade as it wears. I get an occasional sweet patchouli/resin that is reminiscent of By The Fireplace and fresh notes. It is almost as if it got fresher as ot faded. Ambergris? Sage? Could be eithet.

So here we have a real suede note screaming. Seems like very high quality suede, like one Bentley would use for the headliner of the interior of a contential gt. But, I detect and equal amount of medicinal oud. Very medicinal overall and I would have to pass on purchasing this. I am glad I have been able to experience this though, it is very interesting and I can see certain enthueists picking this up.