Fendi Theorema

I can’t recall the exact year, but it must’ve been sometime in 1998 when I purchased my then-just-released bottle of Theorema from Saks, which was (rather dangerously) right around the corner from my shop in Old Town Pasadena. It was a warm autumn, bordering on hot, as it was often in the odd, slightly artsy, not-quite-Los Angeles-not-quite-the-‘burbs little corner of mi barrio, and I was SO thrilled at my new purchase, I actually CALLED a friend, VIA MY LANDLINE (if I recall correctly, I also had an “answering machine”, the kind with the little red light that would only blink when and if someone had left a message. My already-mercurial emotions were gauged by that darn light: Blinking or Steady....!?) to extol the virtues of this amber-hued elixir in the drop-dead gorgeous box (that BOX! UGH. Perfection!). I read off the accords that are printed on the left inner flap in gold foil, and I think I paced the wood floors of my tiny bungalow, so hyped one would think I’d won the state lottery. I had also purchased Kenzo Jungle Le Tigre that same year, and had Jungle L’Elephant form the previous year, so needless to say, I was afloat in a golden, citrus, Oriental amber sea of bliss by the beginning of the new millennium. Alas, it wasn’t long before that same diligence-of-a-magpie that has me switching jobs, partners, addresses, hell, countries with a blip of my beady black eye, had me firmly planted in the then-few offerings my new-found love, Comme des Garçons, my gateway drug that tossed me down the rabbit-hole of “niche” perfumery. #aliseinwonderland #dontdrinkmesmellme. So, out went my “designer/department store” fragrances. With a few exceptions, I was primarily Boutique Betty for over a decade, and had all but forgotten about my intense adoration of goddess-granted fragrances such as this cinnamyl/gingerbread/orange peel/sandalwood wonder. Until a few years ago, when I became more of a “collector”, than just a “shopper”, and less of a niche-snob, I welcomed a few, now vintage, gems back into the fold. Now I adore Theorema with more of a wistful loving, tinged with a bit of longing and a tad of melancholy, perhaps for days gone by? Like that feeling when you’re homesick...but you’re already home, or missing something, someone or somewhere that you know you’ll never experience in quite the same way again. It can’t compete with the complexity, or the opulence of some of my other fragrances, and to me it’s a fairly simple blend of warm spices, and a bushel of satsuma. In fact, most of the other nuances can be slightly bogged-down by the sweet orange accords. BUT. But. I really do love Theorema with all of my whittle black heart. More often than not these days, I need the simplicity of a fragrance that just smells so damn GOOD, I need to roll around on the big, plush, golden brown, cinnamon & saffron-orange carpet of Theorema, contented as a kitten, and recall, not necessarily better, or worse days, but just different days, with fondness and clarity. I can’t state much more than has already been stated, but I’ll add in closing that my Theorema, as well as my much-loved Jungle Le Tigre, and my Jean Patou Sublime, while not the most complex, unusual, or artisan fragrances, are still a few of my most comforting. They reside at the front of my collection, like little golden testaments to the longevity of true beauty, happily elbowing for space with my “weirdos”, artisans, indies, & niche guys, and I’m never letting them go again. I have a big bottle, and would love to share this liquid joy with anyone who wants it.

LOST MASTERPIECE. The first scent that led me on a real frag quest. After reading so many ecstatic memories and reviews of it here, and loving other Fendis, I had to find some - and only then found out the tragic tale of its discontinuation and its lasting cult following. It was mentioned so often in the same breath as my woody-spicy loves that I had to have it. The tremendously kind and generous user @Planet_X gifted me a decant and it was confirmed. Yes I had to have it. Then went on a wending odyssey through US decant sales houses and some strange international corners of eBay - and thanks to another brilliant fragrantian, @corkscrewcurly, struck it lucky to get some miniatures at a reasonable rather than vintage-silly price. It's astonishing. Stunning woods, spices, warmth, class without being intimidating, individual without being freaky, sweet without being sickly. Zingy fresh lemon (and SURELY a good load of orange too?) up the top, cycling into some of the warmest, most tasteful, most nuanced cinnamon and nutmeg and woods I've ever smelled. Having smelled around more I think it might have, or mimic, the note of gaiac/palo santo which is never ever a bad thing. Just gorgeous from any angle. Makes you feel all put together. This is how it ought to be done. For once the cultists aren't deluded, because this one truly deserves to be worshipped. And whoever discontinued it deserves to be named, shamed and exiled from the world perfume community for all time. (Well, OK, maybe that's a little vengeful, but it should convey how all-around great this one is, that a complete unknown could stir me to such passion. ) Nobody in my life ever wore this, it's not specifically evoking any special memories, it's not even the most luxe or most artistic frag I own. Yet I feel it's made just for me ... and thousands of other fans feel the same! A perfume version of that politicians' charisma that makes everyone they talk to feel like the only person alive, no doubt. Donna Karan Black Cashmere comes closest to a substitute .... but of course that, too, is discontinued. *weeps in frustration* . For my money Theorema should be Number One Candidate for an international fragheads' petition for reprieve from oblivion. Someone should dupe, or buy up the formula for, this and bring it back from the near-dead. Transcendental.

Fifteen years ago, I was a teenage girl walking through the mall when a pushy saleswoman shoved a perfume into my face and said, "Try FENDI!" a name I'd never heard before. I rolled my eyes and gave it a quick spritz as I ran off. Several minutes later, I was mesmerized by the most decadent scent. It was sweet, rich, thick like syrup, and a bit spicy, like nothing I'd ever smelled in my life. I thought, This is the scent of a real woman! I desperately wanted to go back, but I knew I was just a very young girl and could not afford such a luxurious perfume, but I never, ever forgot the name FENDI. All these years later, the name FENDI still haunts my mind. Thanks to eBay, I found a full, unused bottle of Theorema for a very reasonable price. No miniature was going to do, not for the perfume I'd waited half my life to own! When the bottle arrived, I was like a kid in a candy store, feverishly ripping the tape off of the cardboard box, chipping my manicure...hoping I bought the correct fragrance because the saleswoman never mentioned the actual name of the perfume. The initial spritz was full of citrus. I did not remember smelling citrus, but I gave it a few minutes to settle. And there it was--the glorious, warm, rich, sweet smell that began my love of thick, oozing orientals. It seemed like all my adult life I'd been trying to find a perfume that could match up to the FENDI of my youth. And now it's mine, all mine! I am all grown up, a woman worthy of wearing this exquisite creation. If you could imagine a family's Christmas gathering, full of love, a delicious feast, laughter and merriment, and the glow of a quietly crackling fireplace, you can glimpse FENDI. Smoked woods and resins create a base upon which are stacked deliciously soft spices, sweet amber, and a lemon note that smells more like a sweetened black tea with lemon. I love Palo Santo and burn it frequently. Just recently I was wishing I could find a Palo Santo based fragrance. When I get to the base notes of Theorema, I smell that precious wood very clearly. I was amazed to find out that gaiac wood is in the base, which is another name for Palo Santo. They just don't make perfumes like this anymore. What a pity. Nothing can replace Theorema.

Theorema has a scent profile that isn't all that unique. There are numerous spiced amber scents out there. Somehow I still find this unique. It opens as a slightly sweet, spiced orange. In the opening the spices are more aromatic, as the scent develops they become warm, cozy and rich. There is a lightness to this fragrance despite it being a warm spicy amber. I never find it heavy or cloying. As the fragrance dries down the tartness from the citrus fades into the warmth of the amber and resins, making a wonderful base for the spices. Thankfully the spices never get skanky. There is a sweetness to this fragrance, but it is never over the top and is balanced well with the other accords. The woods and florals are always present, but are supporting players throughout the wear. Theorema is sensual, classy and beautiful. It's a more womanly than feminine. I picture this being the fragrance of a bold, confident woman. This is a fragrance that has aged very well. It was released 25 years ago, but doesn't smell dated. I find it more classic...one of those things that never really goes out of style. The performance has been excellent for me. The projection is light to moderate, but leaves a beautiful trail. A heavy application does increase the projection, but I find that takes away some of the beauty of this fragrance. One of the things I really love about it is how it dances around me when I am wearing it. It never feels like it is clinging to my skin. Instead it is just floating around with me all day. I only tend to wear Theorema on cooler days. The scent profile is not one I gravitate to in warmer weather. I especially like to wear it around the holidays. It's like mulling spices and oranges...a perfect accompaniment to Christmas I love the packaging. The simplicity of the design is very applealing. The shape of the bottle is interesting and unique while still being understated. I don't have many backup bottles in my collection, but Theorema warrants one if I find another reasonably priced bottle.

There does not seem to be a separate section for the "parfum d'extrait version of THEOREMA." So if I'ts OK ,I'll leave it here. I know I'm very very lucky to have been bought this from my partner as an anniversary gift as it's discontinued and rare.( Hubby:Thank-you thank-you thank-you!!!) This is even deeper and has more rich amber and Jasmine than the Edp. I love the Edp very much I think it has more spices than the parfum d'extrait, yet this is more oily and thicker if you shake bottle gently holding glass top in place of course.so this is a little less spices but somehow still heavier and prominent orange, probably more pink pepper in the Edp version and more sandalwood in the pure pafum ? I'm no expert so hard for me to say. It's a stunning bottle with its magical glass dipper instead of a spray, 25 ml. It has slightly better staying power than the edp i guess due to the essential oils and fact that parfum is richer. I absolutely LOVE this just as i love the Edp and the summer version. why was this taken off the shelves ? this perfume smells like heaven and money ! its sooo classy and expensive smelling, orange and spice and all things nice but done in a way that is soo classy. Top notes are listed in box as: Thai shamouti Eglantine California tangelos Mid notes: Jasmine petals Advanced spices Cinnamon Pink pepper Osmantheus Base notes: Spicy dustmusk Heart of Macassar Sweet creamamber Gailac wood mysore sandalwood Basically it's SICK !!!! Edit: I'm lucky enough to own a baby collection of say 45 fragrances , all of them Dior , Chanel, tom ford etc. I will say this is my most treasured one it's perfection. Pure parfum, filled with rich oils, this has to be my most ***FAVOURITE*** perfume ever ! I've not yet found anything that beats this in this parfum version. It's treasured :) edit: dropped this beauty in sink and It smashed , managed to keep a few mls in a different empty splash bottle but talk about gutted !