Zizanie

No other fragrance communicates bygone sophistication more than Zizanie. So many reviewers say this cologne smells like baby powder. I think that is a gross oversimplification of its character. Yes, upon a cursory inspection of the scent, it does have a powdery quality. But for those of us who care to look deeper, there is a lot more going on here. Just two notes are listed, Sandalwood and Patchouli. At first it's hard to believe, but this may in fact be true. If it is, then A) they are sourcing some excellent quality ingredients and B) the two interact in a very complex way. The Sandalwood is very rich and smooth and the Patchouli is a peppery earthiness. Together, they seem to function almost like a musk. This really is a "Discord" used to great effect. It is perhaps short-sighted to say this is a grandfatherly scent. I just think it's a relic from a time that is classic and dignified. One wonderful thing about the discordant nature of Zizanie is that its powdery nature makes it approachable, while also being a bit musky and edgy. It's not entirely friendly. Nor is it entirely "good smelling". All of the best masculine fragrances have some note that is just a bit off, just a bit flawed, that makes a man seem like he would stand his ground if pressure is applied. Zizanie has that right up front. At first it smells great. Then you notice something that makes you slightly uncomfortable. Discord. That's the thing that makes Zizanie an immortal fragrance from history. This is the quality that drives me away from modern fragrances and towards historic ones like Zizanie. It shouldn't be all sugar and "please, I want you to like me". That's just not what mature confidence should be! Zizanie is "take me for what I am or don't take me at all". People aren't used to that these days and they'll learn to respect it once they have processed the vibe you're putting out. Zizanie will back you up beautifully if that is your intent. UPDATE: I just got an email from Fragonard saying this fragrance is discontinued. I get it, but I hope they canceled it with a heavy heart. 1932-2018.

I can't speak to the modern version, but I have a small 1940s coffret bottle with natural rubber stopper still intact. To me it smells like a more natural version of Penhaligon's Zizonia combined with vintage/antique Coty L'Origan, minus the oregano note and with the incense significantly scaled back. No burnt sugar notes here, thank God. There is ambergris and natural musk (not civet) in the base. There are also faint notes of spices like cinnamon, black seed, and cardamom. Sandalwood is the star here and the dry down is blissful. It's not gourmand, but hits like it is. It's a slightly powdery oriental for sure and reminds me of many Middle Eastern and Indian perfumes. It has some similar DNA to Avon Imari, but without the noticeable floral heart or noticeable synthetics. In Zizanie the heart and base are the same. The opening is dated, with some genuine oak moss and the tiniest whisp of benzoin. This is MCAS friendly and truly unisex, smelling divine and almost edible on everyone! Highly recommend the vintage of Zizanie. You won't regret it. It's such a beautiful sandalwood and has become my new favorite - eclipsing vintage Guerlain Santal and pure Santalum Album oil.

"Zizanie is Frank Sinatra classy... Not Frank in a tuxedo, microphone in hand; no, this is Frank relaxing in a designer wool sweater, shot glass full of bourbon in one hand, cigarette in the other. When Frank wore this in the 1930's it was avant garde. When he wore it in the 1940's he oozed class and refinement. When he wore it in the 1950's he was retro cool. Can this really be "just" sandalwood and patchouli? Hard to fathom actually, but if so, then this is truly the definition of synergy as 1 + 1 = 3, the 3 being something much, much more than the combination of its two separate ingredients. Herbal green notes meld into autumn gold and orange spice notes, with both zest and powder to tickle your nose and heighten your senses. Zizanie is warm, yes, but in a very sexy, very ""cool jazz age" way. Hot spice and cool jazz, that's Zizanie. Oh, Frank... surely this is what you wore when Ava Gardner fell in love with you. Oddly enough, also very much suitable for a woman. A woman wearing a gray cashmere sweater and thinking about lighting up a cigarette. Shot of whiskey optional.

After reading a few posts regarding ZF, I made an order. Moments after the first spray I began to feel very peaceful, serene. The smell evoked memories of my father, who passed away in 2002. I went to my mother's, had her smell my arm, and showed her the bottle. She told me dad wore AF when I was a boy, and after wearing it for several years, was no longer to find it in our area. As a boy, one of my favorite things to do in the evening was to lay my head on my father's chest and listen to his heart beat until I fell asleep. He smelled absolutely wonderful. Having ZF back in my life has been an excellent way to reconnect with the warmth and togetherness I knew in those moments with my father. Sometimes at night, I spray it on my wrists before bed and let the love he poured into me awake. I find the opening a bit metallic with nothing but warm power an hour in.

Here, as is often the case, less is more. With just two notes—patchouli and sandalwood—Zizanie is indeed greater than the sum of its parts. It's powdery, to be sure. But it's clean and fresh enough for Summer and Spring, yet offering us a cozy warmth in the winter months ahead. Clearly, wearing this 1934 release in the Twenty-first century is not in harmony with current tastes. But that's perfectly alright with me. I find Zizanie reassuring and calming. I love it! Turns out Frank Sinatra did, too. So did Cary Grant. I think you might like it, too. Yes, these are complicated times. So there's something nice about having on hand an uncomplicated, straight-forward fragrance like this one. Zizanie is one of the greats in masculine perfumery. Enjoy it now—you'll miss it when it's gone.