1917

Danish design Frama's 1917, named for the year in which Coty Chypre was released, is an homage that is assuredly in no way derivative. It is a minimalist tone poem, set under moody grey skies, woody and deep. Beyond an opening still bergamot is a pastel purple lilac, like the headiest clusters that are almost past peak bloom, bitter almond soft with a pungent green finish. It has a certain haunting, enigmatic feel which strays from lilac's reputation as light and vivacious. This soon overlaps with one of the best modern uses of Evernyl I've ever experienced. It is extravagantly overdosed and bolstered by treemoss (Evernia Furfuracea)—colloquially known as Old Man's Beard. While its cousin oakmoss is typically collected from oaks, treemoss is harvested from conifers, and it is sharper and drier. This, with the sweeter evernyl, along with a dark patchouli and incense-like labdanum, makes for one of the most bewitching chypre dry downs I've experienced.

This one reminds me a lot of a slightly watered down Davidoff's Zino (the bergamot + patchouli + florals combination) , with an added sharp medicinal note and without Zino's warmer sandalwood / cedar base. It unfortunately feels extremely outdated to me, much like the other offerings from FRAMA. Perhaps the name already gave that away...

I'm quite impressed with 1917. It definitely has character. A very serious and deep floral. I almost get an incense-vibe, which I love. Not an easy spring-time scent, more like an autumnal floral. It's not for me, but it's very nice.