Contre-Jour

Contre Jour hits with immediate authority. This is not a shy fragrance—it’s assertive, textured, and unapologetically bold. From the first spray, it projects a vibrant, spicy energy that feels alive, almost electric on the skin. What stands out is its unmistakable vintage fougère soul. Not in a nostalgic or dusty way, but in the structure: aromatic, slightly barbershop-adjacent, yet pushed into a more modern, intensified direction. The spices are sharp and luminous, giving the composition a restless, almost pulsating character. There’s a clear echo of Loewe Pour Homme vintage—that same refined spiciness, that masculine elegance with an edge—but Contre Jour feels denser, more concentrated, and more deliberate in its impact. Where Loewe glides, Contre Jour strikes. Performance is serious: strong presence, long-lasting, and definitely polarizing. This isn’t built to please everyone—it’s built to be remembered. Annick Menardo’s signature is evident: depth, contrast, and a kind of controlled chaos that turns a classic structure into something distinctive. If you’re looking for a safe fragrance, look elsewhere. But if you want something iconic, character-driven, and unforgettable, this is exactly where you should be. Trust Annick Menardo.

A true masterpiece. Building a perfume around immortelle, a material as complex as it is distinctive — and one whose scent I am particularly fond of — was not easy. Yet Annick Menardo rises to the challenge brilliantly by pairing it with a rose (rose water) that is fresh, sharp, slightly fruity, and also powerful. I feel like all the richness of this dune flower unfolds here : herbal and mineral facets, hints of sun-warmed hay, along with honeyed, spicy, citrusy and textured nuances. The encounter between these two floral notes, resting on a sandalwood base, lends the rose a velvety texture reminiscent of Portrait of a Lady. I'm amazed though that Fragrantica listed sweet in the main accords list, I totally disagree with that... The result perfectly fulfills the promise of the fragrance’s name: a perfume of contrasts, sensual and balanced, where masculine and feminine elements converse perfectly. With this creation, EDPFM is back to a genuine creative boldness. It must be tested on skin: on a blotter the rose tends to dominate, whereas on skin the solar immortelle expresses itself far more fully.

leave it to Annick Menardo to do an immortelle I love, the everlasting flower packs a dry herbal opening that is very pronounced herbal like dry woody smell, it's Solar floral note, at this point it's giving me L' Attarine SL vibe, about 30 minutes into the composition the rose begins to soften the sharpness of the immortelle and the composition softens and sweetens a bit. the rose is somewhat restrained, I'm guessing by dosing the rose extract with geranium. I hated Ganymede but love this one. After wearing for a week, I'm in love, how could two notes bring this type of elegance and minimalistic perfection, the immortelle must be molecular distilled, it goes a tad bit into the savory, curry like, but not Like Afternoon with a Fawn celery like notes, this is classier and smoother. when I first smelled I didn't care how much it cost, it hit the skin and it was love at first sniff....this is the same price as portrait. rose immortelle make the most unusual and beautiful accord. this is technically the last fragrance under FM. it's powerful.

This might be an Australian thing, I’m not sure... but there were these lollies we used to buy as kids called Fads that were marketed to look like a pack of ciggies. They were a powdery musk and had this distinct chalky texture. If you know them, or can at least picture what I’m describing, the opening of Contre-Jour is unmistakably “Fads”. The initial sweet, youthful rose sheds its jamminess early. It’s playful, and sets things up perfectly for what quickly becomes a much more serious perfume. The immortelle is dry and hay-like with this dusty pollen effect, like sun-dried flowers being lifted into the air. The narcissus, a gorgeous contrast, feels natural and earthy and stops the whole thing from tipping into something too heavy or cloying with its beautifully agrestic quality, all the while with flashes of sweet rose shining through the gaps. There’s a slightly powdery, toasted sugar kind of appeal that feels bright, but leaves space for its complexity to move in and out of the light deliberately left in-between.

Another masterpiece from the house. The composition is simple, however the ingredients are of great quality and feel expensive. The rose is vintage and dewy and the immortelle feels refined and classy. The genius of the perfumer lies in the development though. I do not get a typical development from top to base. I get an intimate fight between shadow and light of the two main ingredients. The opening is dominated by the vintage rose but that quickly changes. A battle between the immortelle and the rose then becomes the main theme. Sometimes you get clear immortelle and sometimes you get the punk rose. The blending and the shape shifting of the heart of the perfume between the two tones showcases the mastery of the perfumer. Eventually the yellow flower dominates. It feels like a hot August day in a Greek isle, going down a hill to reach a secluded beach. The dry down to me is expensive. Very interesting composition

Just received my full bottle. I’m not qualified as a fanboy of FM, I only own Carnal Flower and Portrait. So I went in blind and I’m quite impressed! This is almost as dramatic as portrait (maybe slightly more). The immortelle slithering through the rose, I can smell the tension others mention. The sprinkle of sandalwood and the musk in the air! Like a diva off between 2 of the hottest notes. It’s glamorous as hell. Gonna stop here and come back when I fully can wrap my head around what’s going on but so far it’s a love. Edit: this definitely smells like Sheldrakes work for sure Edit 2: this is a remix to POAL, I wouldn’t be surprised if they had the idea to do it and not mention it. I love this fragrance, if POAL was the main event, Contre Jour is the afters at 3 AM. I’m happy to own both because there are enough differences to warrant it, a B side if you think about it

I hear Annick Menardo and I just know it will be interesting! I mean Body Kouros ,Bois D’ Argent , Bois d’ Armenie , Jaipur Homme. When you ‘re familliar with Annick Menardo’s work , you immediately recognize Contre Jour. I’m ,like many others , on the like side , I think this is a real Frederick Malle release. Contre Jour reminds me of my first niche scent ever , Annick Gout's Sables , but more subtle , less raw and "in your face". Timing for the release of this fragrance could be better though , I think this suits better in colder months. You do have to like immortelle though. The sandalwood connects the rose and immortelle and transforms it into a warm , comforting scent in my opinion. Thumbs up from me!

I wore it on skin for the third time today, and here’s my take. I find this release really successful. It’s a brilliant take on immortelle for those who aren’t into - or not yet ready for - bold, in-your-face immortelle scents like Fougere Bengale or Afternoon of a Faun. In the background of the immortelle there’s a rose-woody base that gives a slight impression of something reminiscent of Portrait of a Lady. But the similarity is very subtle, as the immortelle stays clearly present throughout the entire life of the scent. The combination of immortelle and rose here is really beautiful and elegant. I’ll probably pull the trigger on this one someday.

I just tried this at Harrods and I can still smell it on me. I am trying to understand exactly what I am picking up. I own 1740 Marquis de Sade by Histoires de Parfums, I used to have Cuir Beluga from Guerlain, and I also own Phoenix Flame by Mabelle O’Rama, all of which highlight that yellow immortelle flower in different ways. The opening is very punchy. There is an obvious tobacco like scent, but that is actually the immortelle. It gives that warm, slightly smoky, syrupy sweetness that can easily be mistaken for tobacco. So far, all I can say is that it feels truly unique. Edit : 13 hours later .. i still can smell it on my hand.

This release makes me very happy - FM is one of my favourite brands and I am overjoyed to see they are still ready to release a unique fragrance that is kind of an acquired taste, given FM himself has left the brand. This is a wonderful herbal aromatic fragrance with rose facets. It doesn’t really remind me of anything else although I do think it’s done in a style remotely similar to Elixir by Clinique. Longevity is very good, I wish it projected a bit more but hopefully this improves with time. 10/10 from me and well done FM

To me this is like a masculine portrait of a lady. Just greener, dryer and spicier. Like hay. I detect a bit of a a food/spice rack quality. The same rose from POL shines through underneath. It smells like a very mysterious wealthy man at a party that you’re afraid to talk to. It’s beautiful but I don’t know if it’s a masterpiece like POL or carnal flower. I need some more time with it. It’s undoubtedly a Frederic Malle though, very dry and very high quality. 9.2/10

Contre-Jour was an immediate love for me. Immortelle flower is the star of the show. However, notes of leather, hay, and herbal soap (reminiscent of a luxury French-milled botanical bar) also make an appearance. Without a doubt, Contre-Jour is sophisticated, refined, and polished. This masterfully blended green-patchouli chypre has above average longevity and sillage—and compliments are guaranteed.

From ALMOST curry-like immortelle, via Malle's signature rose, and ending up at Santal Majuscule sandalwood. This is a spectacular perfume, stunning, woody, dry, magical. It's not an immediate dazzler, it takes time and multiple wears to appreciate, but to me it's the best thing from this brand in decades. I'm not a fan of these minimal note pyramids, there's certainly a lot more going on in here.

Very well blended opens with a dry hay like immortelle and rose and what else? Something a bit sweet and sour a note of apple cider or an apple liquor? The mid gets a bit earthy ,dirtier dries down woodsy with a lingering rose - it’s interesting

Beautiful, elegant, mysterious scent. Super elegant, maybe a little bit on the mature side. Dry immortal plays beautifully with rose . I love it.

A modern immortele with whiskey soon transforms into a bolder version of Rose & Cuir. A Masterpiece.

I'm loving this in the heat, it never overwhelms ........ it's no longer listed on the FM site...

I wonder what's going on at FM, this fragrance is not listed, very low on inventory.........

A unique perfume. Solid projection and quality. I loved it. It’s just playing with my mind.

After a whole year of nothingness from the brand concentrating on anniversaries which seems like it’s their latest direction we get a surprise release from one of the best female perfumers of all time third in line for the brand which definitely sets the bar very high So Ordered the 100ml just because I still have faith in this brand And I heard a couple of reviews nothing negative so far As usual my thorough routine is blotter-skin-clothes And the results varied When I sprayed it the first time it was on a blotter and the first thing I got is the famous rose the brand very much knows and respects It was lovely Shortly the herbal notes started rushing in with a blend so sophisticated although not something I’ve never smelled before On skin it was different the rose was stronger the intensity of the herbs were less but overall a better experience than the first Now on clothes it was a different story It was more balanced than the previous ones with a more prominent herbal notes than the rose Overall it develops beautifully throughout the day and let me tell you it definitely powerful I could smell my clothes from across the room for the whole day and I sprayed less than 10 times I know it seems I’m loving it but my issue is it’s not something new The herbal facets were so familiar that I swear I couldn’t shake the similarities to aromatics elixir by Clinique (with the extra rose) And I can’t shake the feeling that with time it will be more intense and harder to wear with the curry (herbal) notes intensifying in the future Still a respectable approach which is not mainstream and that’s enough reason for me to keep my hopes up for the brand

Tried it Finally !! Very familiar but like no other ?! So this is a rose scent no doubt , with honey and spice quality , Absolutely Fredric Malle/Serge Lutens style and fits the brand overall perspective on rose , you get slight hints of promise , portrait of a lady and une rose , just hint NOT straight forward identical. Spices in here feels like fenugreek or faint smell of wooden spice cupboard , For the honey feel , not sure if that's driven by the Immortelle flower , as I believe it can magnify spicy and honey related qualities easily , Also the Narcissus flower can enrich the honey effect with fresh lift. That honey effect brings to mind the memory of how honey was demonstrated in Cartier L'Envol. What i'm confident of if you are not into spices , stay away as this scent carries a spicy , herbal , honeyed rose and faint woods feel. Update: After contemplating on my first trial I would call this a niche modernised version of the long forgotten Aramis 900 Cheers

I like it. For me it’s Santal Majuscule over any of the older Lutens; Arabie, Chergui, Chypre Rouge...it’s stewed and dense. Caramelly. Hay like. It doesn’t have (for me) the distinct immortelle of something like Immortelle Corse or Sables, but a distorted version of it. Slightly smoky. Resinous. Opulent. Niche. It will divide opinions, like Une Fleur de Cassie or Dans tes Bras, and even though I find it slightly annoying after some hours (this lasts!!) I appreciate it. It definitely had its homework laid and done carefully, and feels solid, albeit I feel the drydown could be a bit more developed and less synth dependent. I’d love to get the chypre and narcissus facets many get, but overall I can’t say I dislike it. It warrants further testing because it has the basics to become a lovely perfume over time. Annick Menardo made a great intro!

I've smelled Contre-jour the other day at the Paris shop where it's already out; I guess people who like the rose in Portrait will be glad. The rose and sandalwood are the main contenders to my nose, but maybe I did not smell enough immortelle to pick it up more? Anyway, it's a really well-blended, complex, warm rose. The drydown is woody and elegant, with the rose coming back and forth. The person at the shop told me that it is a perfume made to evolve on the skin and makes the three main ingredients shine while doing so.

The immortelle is quite strong on the opening. The middle is nice and I enjoyed getting whiffs of it while going about my day (the longevity was impressive). At the end of the day, only the immortelle remained. This is one to smell on skin.

I’m not even reviewing this perfume but sharing my experience: Smelled the atomizer; went woahhh, instantly excited to see how the journey would unfold. 2 sprays on the skin and one on the fabric.( to be safe). My goodness... It started with a pink pepper-ish + honeyed sweet fennel seed-ish feel which did its foreplay part to quickly lay out the red carpet for Immortelle to arrive. Tbh I didn’t know about this plant before or haven’t heard bout it so i digged up some information. The sour + zesty + dry hay + warm characteristics of the Immortelle plant defines its complexity in a bold way. I felt like I had the best homemade lime pickle over my arms; with hints of the mysterious rose making its presence, something I’ve never experienced before in a bottle of perfume. I don’t hate it or I don’t love it. But it is something that was very new to me and redefined my entire perfume experience throughout. 2 hours in, there’s certainly presence of betel nut and the sandalwood makes it way lastly. Impressive longevity as well. Idk man, i could completely relate to the brands description about it as ‘contrasts of light and shadow’. Which occasion to wear this? Imagine getting invited to the podium, or to any occasion where you will be present for a short period of time and leave, meeting different set of people and being on the move.

Beautiful description. As I write this, I can still detect the last traces of immortelle on my arm, 13 hours after applying CJ. I've tried it now in cool and warm weather, the main difference being the amount of rose I detected. In the cool weather (14C) it was watery, green, and fleeting. In yesterday's warmer (23C) it did not appear at all. The main event is the immortelle. It's pretty, honey abounds. I get a scant few minutes of spices and herbs, which is when the perfume is at its best, but then all I'm left is a honeyed, dried immortelle. I was pleasantly surprised by how long it lasted, but at least on me it isn't a complex scent by any means.

Strangely, I thought I smelled musty patchouli but it was the immortelle. it also has some lipstick and leather facets. Elegant, fits into the line but nothing special.

Dry and fresh. Something herbal but then there’s a scent of chicken soup cubes. The dry spice smell. It’s interesting but I wouldn’t wear it.

Hmmmm what a contre jour... I feel it's not that great but it could easily be my signature scent all at the same time. I think you want to wear it as it's fairly intriguing and maybe the feeling of it's not that great is because of the house that it's from. My initial feelings is that it's not that well blended but I don't think it's meant to be. I suppose that's the contre jour and the contrast between the smooth pink rose at the base and the sharp green yet smoky note at the top. I'm not sure if it feels very Frédéric Malle so maybe you can tell he's left the building. I think with any other in the line even if you hadn't smelt them before and you asked someone what they were wearing and they said Frédéric Malle you'd say ah yes of course! With this however if you asked and someone said Frédéric Malle you'd say oh really?!?! You appreciate the artistry and dedication when carnal flower takes 690 attempts. Like Chateau Musar which is held at the property and only released when it's right. This feels it was maybe attempt number 5 and Estée Lauder just wanted it released. It wouldn't be out of place in the original Tom Ford private blend line up or if it was an £80 Guerlain. It feels like she was definitly given keys to the cupboard to maximise profit rather than the traditional free artistry to make whatever you like using exquisite ingredients no matter the cost. I think it is due to the same synthetic smoke Tom Ford uses. Ah it has just hit me! I could almost be wearing Tom Ford black lacquer and I'd be hard pressed to tell the difference. It smells like you've just stepped back into the bathroom after running a hot soapy bath and you've lit a match, not a blown out match but the match is still burning. I personally get the curried immortelle. The sweetness isn't coming from honeyed immortelle but insstead from a mouldy lemon you've left in the fridge too long. And yes hay but burnt hay or the dusty remains of a hay field after the bails have been made - I can't believe I've not seen many reviews mentioning the smoke as personally that is all I really get. I was going to be poetic and say if you had to give burning desire a smell It would be this but the more it dries down the more I'm just picturing walking past a grandmother and her granddaughter at an embrace. It's smelling cheap to me. It's not an exquisite luxurious expensive rose but cheap bubblegum rose aimed at 12 year olds as their first fragrance (so I get the toy boy comments) and yeah just shove a musky old lady ontop of that. Take a cheap bubblegum rose, add a try hard old lady, add some smoke ontop of that and sadly you've got Contre-Jour. Or maybe more politely take Toy Boy add Black Lacquer ontop and you're left with Contre-Jour Ok as a blind buy (with 20% off) and I still look forward to wearing it and supporting the house (hopefully to give it the benefit of a doubt) as I'm sure it will just keep giving throughout the day. However it doesn't hit that same FM magic and sparkle and that's what I'm left craving and sniffing so hard for to try and find and get my fix. Even the hated 'plain' Uncut Gem has more complexity and is more thought provoking and has more of that FM DNA and magic and sparkle than this. The fact as well you can get away with/even need a lot of sprays for a Frédéric Malle maybe tells you all you need to know. For a fragrance it's ok. For a Frédéric Malle it's a dud and after an hour I'm already left frustratingly waiting for the next release and wondering if this is the end. (Note the opening and just smelling the atomosier and the room you sprayed it in does feel very elegant and comforting and POAL and an exciting release maybe I need more sprays so the opening is so fleeting (however I have never sprayed an FM so heavily in my life)). It's quite a damp day here in the UK and outside you can't smell it all - I don't though if that's a compliment as it blends so naturally with the environment or if I'm clutching at straws. (Also note I'm sure my hand and neck is itchy after spraying this. 'Maybe there is an ingredient I'm allergic to 😅) Edit edit. All I get is curry. I have even gone out for a curry tonight and now I'm home I can't work out if the smell on my clothes is me or the meal. For those in the UK the smell is basically the moment you get the hot flannels when you ask for the bill. I have tried layering it with Creed Aventus Cologne to make it more palatable which I think has worked. I think they both have a fun sweet musk on the drydown whilst keeping the mature base that will make people say you smell nice from contre jour. I have seen tips with rose & cuir that say spray it on your clothes instead of skin to help keep the greenness of the opening and less leather. Maybe I will try the same with contre hour to keep the curry at bay.

Contre-Jour is extremely spicy. It’s like if Aramis had a spicy romance with Aromatics Elixir after a hot night at a Marrakesh spice market. The notes I perceive are; oakmoss, maybe even civet, coriander, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, geranium, rose, bergamot, carnation, fenugreek plus a ton more spice from a masala dabba tin. It’s herbaceous, aromatic and slightly old-skool shaving cream soapy with ground garam masala powder. It’s way too spicy for me as my armpits can smell like this the day after I eat methi (fenugreek) which I don’t like and try to avoid. But if you love spicy scents, then you’ll love Contre-Jour as it’s the spiciest with premium quality and it lasts forever.

Again and again I realize that so popular now (why?) immortelle note doesn't attract me at all. This scent may be a good find for those enjoying "naturally smelling" frags, with its herbal and yellow flowers aspects, but it just bores me. I don't have much of rose, maybe a hint. I can call this scent elegant and sober. But for me, remembering Carnal Flower and Portrait OTL, it doesnt smells satisfying enough. I put it on generously and hardly noticed it presentation afterwards. Now after six hours I still have some immortelle on a blotter, and if by chance you are an enthusiast of this note, go for it. I will pass.

It smells like an oriental herbal medicine shop. Immortelle has that balsamic, herbal note, but I think it is way too overdosed. I wish it had just enough to complement the rose. Some people might like it for its balsamic and oriental character, but it's a very niche scent in my country, yes. But considering how much Westerners like Immortelle, it might be a mass or mainstream scent for them. As many people have pointed out, it feels like a very Serge Lutens-esque scent, perhaps because of those oriental elements.

This is an awful perfume with an awful presentation of immortelle, it should have never happened, and it's totally unnecessary in EDPFM line. Maybe all the team responsible for the launch had a kind of osnosmia or maybe the big name of a perfumer made them blind voting for the "emperor's new clothes". It's just boring and it doesn't smell good at all. Pass.

I tried it yesterday and immediately said NO. It was heavy, immortelle is punching your nose and it's not a pleasant feeling. Overall, it feels dirty, but not in a good way. As moth from the 90-s have just visited you, or you stepped into the 80-years old moldy house. Just no.

feels incomplete.. and it's not worth anyone's time who respects the name Frederic Malle. though.. maybe it's the only one from the latest releases that reminisce a bit of EDPFM dna. nice try Estée.

When I first tried it in the store, I thought it was amazing. My initial impression was that it was incredibly elegant, sexy, and captivating. It's also a truly unisex fragrance that both men and women can wear with confidence. I was so impressed that I bought the 100 ml bottle without hesitating. However, the sad part of the story comes with the drydown. It is very tricky and open to different interpretations. Depending on your nose, you might pick up a viscous salty, herbal, or earthy facet, or even salty, marine, mossy nuances. Some people may even perceive slightly fishy or egg-like undertones. It's also extremely difficult to wash off your skin and clothes. Because the drydown is so challenging and overwhelming, my mind has now associated those notes with the opening of the fragrance. As a result, I find myself unable to wear it again or even think about it. I'm sorry to say this, but the smell has become genuinely disgusting to me.

Although the internet is rather scarce when it comes to interviews with Frederic Malle, I still remember him once expressing his desire and perhaps even hinting at a future collaboration with Anick Menardo. I am convinced that Frederic Malle himself had a strong influence on the creation of this fragrance, as his unmistakable style is present trough. The opening is absolutely brutal completely in your face, almost like curry waxy paste, It is so powerful that dryness somehow turns juicy and sweet. I am sure my perception of it will evolve over time, as immortelle-based fragrances have never been particularly close to me, even though I have worn and sampled quite a few of them. Only a handful of notes are officially listed, yet I can also detect touches of oakmoss and patchouli. The transition from the dry, curry-infused immortelle opening to the drydown where geranium and sandalwood begin to emerge feels remarkably slow. The fragrance takes its time to unfold. Perhaps my impression is influenced by the fact that I have only tested it in exceptionally warm weather, conditions that do not suit this perfume at all. I would unequivocally classify it as a fragrance made exclusively for winter, and not just any winter, but a true Parisian one. Comparisons to Afternoon of a Faun are certainly justified. Contre-Jour is the more direct and potent fragrance, while Afternoon of a Faun is decidedly more abstract, melancholic, and even more nostalgic which is somewhat surprising, considering that 90% of Frederic Malle creations possess a distinctly nostalgic quality. Despite my immense respect for Afternoon of a Faun as a composition, it is not something I would personally wear. This is a very potent and warm perfume with that classic masculine undertone, and it fully lives up to the name of the house it bears. Now, all that remains is to wait for the European winter, so it can melt the snow and warm the soul with effortless ease.

Not gonna lie... first spray on the paper strip was a straight NO. Like, I was ready to walk away. But I came back to it literally a minute later and it had already done a little switch-up, suddenly it smelled interesting and I got curious. So I sprayed it properly on skin (quite generously) and went about my day shopping, sniffing my arm now and then like a weirdo. It’s definitely an unusual scent, but not unpleasant at all. On me it actually projected really well and I kept catching little wafts for a good 8 hours. There’s a rose in there, but it stays kind of in the background (thank God, because I’m not a rose-forward perfume girl). It feels warm and slightly spicy, not cinnamon exactly, but that same cozy-spice family. To me it comes across as more “grown and interesting” than sweet. Overall: it’s one of those scents that isn’t an instant love at first spray, but it keeps pulling you back for another sniff. I can totally see myself buying a full bottle... just not today. When the time is right, she’s coming home.

I didn’t expect it to be this good, because the brand no longer has Mr. Malle. But from what I tried, it was surprisingly good. It feels like one of those perfumes where immortelle really stands out. There is a bit of a dry hay-like feeling to it, but there are many other things helping support it well. The rose here may not smell particularly luxurious, but it seems to do a good job helping hold the structure of the scent together. What I like the most is probably the patchouli in the base. It does its job very well without stealing the spotlight from the other notes, unlike some other patchouli-focused perfumes. It doesn’t smell sweet or gourmand, and overall it feels quite well-balanced. But as usual with this brand, the official price is really too much. If I get the chance or can find it cheaper, I’d rather buy it that way.

How do I even put this? Annick Menardo is my absolute idol... someone I’ve always looked up to! And Contre Jour could have been her very best work in recent years, if it weren’t for Frédéric Malle. Because... why? Just why must there be that cloying sweet rose that ruins it all? Why not something else, more intentional, and not for branding sake, like mimosa, or even a white floral like neroli, which would have been miles better than having that cloying POAL rose accord front and centre! Apart from that everything else is perfection. I feel so at ease once all the rose fades. And I actually enjoy the opening so much because that is such a Menardo thing if you even follow her body of work. Goodness... I still got a bottle anyway just because it’s Menardo but seriously screw that rose for real!!!

Just some quick thoughts while the iron is at least lukewarm. Contre-Jour is symbolic. It's a farewell and a look at things to come. The marketing sees a backlit bottle drenched in the orange glow of a setting (or rising?) sun, probably on the country-side. The fragrance itself acknowledges this as well. While rural in character (immortelle, narcissus) there is a polish to the elements, leaving room for its star: A rose which bears more than a similarity to the one in PoaL, standing by itself in the pastures, lit up by the spotlight of the setting sun. I appreciate the scent as the first unabashed agrestic composition to join the line, but I need to revisit it before I can pass judgement on its merits as a perfume without its weighty context.

It starts off quite beautiful, the immortal is quite nostalgic, it reminded me of my grandma’s wooden kitchen cabinet in Iran, where she held her spices, and than 10 minutes after the fragrances completely changes and opens up into a rather familiar rose note of Frederic Malle perfumes, and the immortal is gone, it kinda smells a bit like rose&cuir but with far less geranium. I would still consider it a solid release, however the brand seems to really have an overstock on rose oil, therefore this will be completely kept under the radar and will not really stand out in the collection, compared to heaven can wait or even ACNE studio

On the blotter the top notes smell like Rose & Cuir. The dryness of Rose & Cuir comes from vetiver and isobutyl quinoline. In Contre-Jour the dryness comes from immortelle. Immortelle here is not sweet, herbal. It is very dry, even a bit harsh and unpleasant. It is a good perfume but I would not buy it. It lacks some exceptional originality you are expecting from Frederic Malle. Rose & Cuir to my nose is more original, conceptual. I predict Contre-Jour will not sell well - it is not "a nice perfume" and it is not very original too.

I'll say this: you MUST like immortelle if you want this scent. Front and center, mapley, curried, dry and earthy. I think it's very well done but might get a little bothersome hours into it. I'm a fan of this note so I enjoyed this. That said, I much prefer Atelier des Ors Musc Immortel...slightly more elegant with the white musks taming the curry. Both are cozy and warm.

A Malle without Frederic... Looks like a promising release, or direction true to the brand's legacy if you will, although little online birdies tell me this has been commissioned before Frederic Malle left. Given the nose behind this perfume it must be good, maybe a 'modern-minimal' vibe given the note pyramid? Looking forward to more reviews and information.

It reminds me a lot of Portrait of a lady, both scent share the same trio: rose-patchouli-ambroxan. Contre Jour is more aromatic and the immortelle in there brings a curry note, to me.... And the scent also develops a tiny old school vibe which is quite pleasant. A reminiscent of the 70’s. Nice new perfume and nice to wear.

Unfortunately, while the concept of this fragrance is lovely, the execution falls well short of perfection. I tried it several times and was always irritated by the spice note, which spoiled the fragrance's great concept. I wish they had chosen a better note, so I consider it a complete failure. 5/10

Once again, the same familiar Frédéric Malle rose is presented to us time and time again. This time it dances with a honey-laced tea scent of immortelle, yet the rose remains the lead from beginning to end. The narcissus and sandalwood have been wasted. Best to pass.

Really smooth and silky. The blend really does a good job of highlighting the things that make imortelle great without veering into scratchy spicy territory or smelling like funky maple syrup. Just a smooth rose sandalwood with some edges of leathery intrigue

Sempre peggio. Elicriso e niente altro. Ma a cosa servono questi profumi? Forse l'essenza di elicriso è a buon mercato,rende molto in termini di proiezione e durata e quindi ora un sacco di profumi hanno questa nota. Che a me non piace.