Muskara Pelargonium

The taxonomy of geraniums and pelargoniums is a bit complicated. Both are in the order Geraniales and the family Geraniaceae, but from there, plants are divided between geraniums (the cranebills, or 'true' geraniums, 430 species) and pelargoniums (280 species). There is even a third genus, Erodium (stork's bills, 80s species). From there, we must make the distinction between the garden geraniums (Pelargonium x hortorum) in the pelargonium genus and those that yield essential oils. The former is most commonly associated with what we know of as geraniums (which are technically pelargoniums, stick with me here). Then we have Pelargonium graveolens, the one that yields essential oils, but this comes in a wide assortment of cultivars, with scents ranging from citrus to citronella to mint to cinnamon to various fruits. Then there is the specific cultivar that is reminiscent to rose: P. rosat, which is most widely used in aromatherapy and perfumery. It is this plant that yields the very oil for which we associate geranium in fragrance. Yet there is a plantfrom the geranium family (not pelargonium!) that actually yields an oil and is used in perfumery: Zdravets (Geranium macrorrhizum)—yes, a 'true' geranium or cranesbill species! Unlike Pelargonium graveolens, its scent profile is woody, earthy, herbaceous, and only ambiguously floral. It's lovely unto itself, and reminds me of the smell cranesbill plants warmed by a hot sun. Now that I felt some duty to get all that out of the way, I feel more prepared to explain the splendor of Muskara Pelargonium. This is truly a geranium lover's geranium fragrance. The liquid itself is a stunning green hue, presumably due to the high content of geranium absolute and some other extractions. There seems to be layers of geranium materials used here, and maybe it is just the power of suggestion and I am just fooling myself, but I am reminded of even Zdravets itself (the brand itself claims there are different botanical varieties used here). One component that stands out is Dimethyl sulfide which, while in concentration can smell of somewhat spoiled cabbage, sweet-corn, and sharp sulfur, there is a minute percentage in geranium EO. I find it fascinating that I pick it up here in its non-concentrated, pleasantly quenching floral state. The rosy, minty, and citric facets are all on display, and it just feels like geranium rapture. Aspects of its development are also stemmy, reminiscent of crushed foliage. Most noteworthy, however, is the Muskara in Muskara Pelargonium (one of a series from Fueguia). As each layer evaporates, it becomes more apparent that what holds this altogether is an amalgam of musks, some that are slightly animalic, that leave the most sensuous skin scent: a wholly gratifying coda to its wearing experience. The house's Muskara Phero J proprietary base is used here. I won't get into the so-called 'pheromone messengers' and that jazz but I must say its some superb smelling stuff. What a treat from beginning to end.

Green,green and evergreen A little sweet