Givenchy III

The prettiest aldehyde I've encountered. Truly lovely, better even than L'Interdit! G3 opens with the expected aldehyde clarion, but it is a softer accord than is generally found. Almost immediately, this begins to die down, leaving gentle, soapy oakmoss, the merest hint of carnation, and soft, warm, narcissus. The heart fades very quickly- too quickly! But the dry down is even better. Clear, clean jasmine, not at all indolic, LoV, a touch of hyacinth. I am not finding any rose, which is usually quite forward on my skin. Nor am I finding any fruit (but then, I rarely do). As gardenia absolu does not exist, tuberose is used as a substitute- but it is a faint, beautifully blended tuberose that gives the impression that a soft cool breeze is sighing intermittently through the warmer white flowers...this is a gentle, relaxing, and enjoyable scent. The dry down is a touch sweet, compared to many aldehydes. I find it refreshing, in the sense that this is, for me, a rejuvenating scent, one that charges the batteries, heralds the end of a period of tension, and allows me to feel like I can stop, breathe deeply, and relax. It is worth mentioning that I have to pretty much douse myself to get G3 to stick around long enough for me to enjoy the dry down. Even so, it remains soft. I am getting good sillage, within arms length, but I suspect it is faint enough that while it registers as a pleasant aura, it is unlikely to be identified as perfume. I'm okay with that! But a small sample might not provide one with enough of the perfume to really experience the full evolution. I have to apply a line of scent to my entire inner forearm, from wrist to elbow, to get the scent strong enough for me to perceive the dry down phase. I am using a splash, so this may be different for those who own a spray bottle. G3 is fresh, clean, gentle, and so very very pretty. It's also quite inexpensive online. My 4oz bottle ran $15 and appears to be in perfect condition. But please do be aware that the treatment of vintages affects how they breakdown, and notes and longevity can be affected. Avoid discolored jus, and anything missing more than 25% of the fluid. Discoloration indicates overheating of the jus- either sun damage or placement over a heating vent. The emptier a bottle is, the greater the air exposure the remaining liquid has. Think of it this way: If a bottle remains untouched for forty years, and is missing only a little fluid, then the top layer of the jus will evaporate into that air, moistening it, and preventing further degradation. The top quarter inch or so will be damaged, but when the bottle is jostled during a sale, it will mix back into the rest, and will only slightly lessen the quality of the jus overall. But the more air in the bottle, the greater the amount of jus that will have broken down, and the more noticeable the effect will be once the fluid is mixed. And if a bottle is jostled a lot over many years, even a small amount of air in the bottle can then affect the entire bottle. Obviously, a newer vintage will have less damage than an older vintage, and while considered less of a collector's item, if there has been no reformulation, the perfume itself will be of equal or better quality. Rather than going for the oldest bottle, try the newest, pre-reformulation. If you really crave the old bottle for itself, buy an empty! Also, decanting jus into a bottle with less air exposure can help to protect what remains. There are plenty of attractive atomizers available! Buying vintage is always a gamble, hopefully this will help.

(Comparison of the EdT and Extrait concentrations, both bottles pre-1990 from the Parfums Givenchy era) Celestial. Ethereal. Elysian. Diaphanous. I’m not going to run out of words to describe the experience that is Givenchy III. Every time I wear it I feel like my body and soul are floating through the world on a joyous breeze. It doesn’t start off that way, though. In both the EdT and the Extrait the galbanum opening is bracingly bitter. It’s not stiff or impenetrable, it feels featherweight, but it is very striking. Particularly in the Extrait, the bitterness is so much it can almost be felt in the back of the throat. But this opening feels cleansing, not uncomfortably scrubbing. Long before the Extrait has released me from the galbanum the EdT moves on to the rose, jasmine, and muguet heart that is simply divine. It is so rich, yet weightless and transparent it presents like the spirits of the flowers rather than a bouquet. Rosey, heady, musky, just a bit green still, a touch creamy and almost imperceptibly fruity. It’s so good. The Extrait gets there eventually, but its heart layer is more fruity floral than strictly floral like the EdT. Mists of mandarin and peach juices hang like a haze over beautiful green roses and a creamy muguet - ok, I need a break from smelling III otherwise I might just pass out in ecstasy. There have been some key differences so far between the EdT and Extrait, and in the final dry down they differ still. Additionally, it’s obvious but shouldn’t go unsaid that the Extrait is richer and more vibrant throughout its life than the EdT. In the dry down, the orris is the star of this layer in both concentrations. It is not cool or powdery like we would normally associate with orris, it’s a neutral temperature silk bathrobe that adds to the feeling of being freshly cleansed and weightless. This metaphor is very intentional because the oakmoss in both concentrations is dialed in perfectly, which evokes the “clean” and “of the earth” feeling while also coming across as damp and misty - stepping out of the shower - like real-deal oakmoss does so well. In the Extrait when the creamy sandalwood at long last makes its appearance, the final skin scent is an embrace of gentle and familiar comfort. It’s in this final stage that the Extrait has more woody warmth than the EdT, the latter opting to hold on to the cooler oakmoss a bit longer but push forward the dry, beige warmth of patchouli instead of sandalwood. Any day wearing III is a lovely day. Though I never forget it, every time I wear it I still balk at how well it suspends itself in the air. This ability to maintain richness without any physical texture or weight at all is a miracle of modern perfumery. III is a legendary classic of the floral chypre genre.

I bought a vintage miniature of Givenchy III, as I was keen to smell this classic green chypre, especially after Luca Turin's glowing review. My bottle is unboxed, and the liquid is very dark, but as it is the pure parfum, the intensity is to be expected. After the intense bitter smokiness of the opening subsides, the essence of this scent is still there - an old-fashioned (in the best way!) mossy green chypre, complete with its aldehydic opening and rich white floral accords. There is a hint of peach in the opening, but I feel that the fruity notes of my sample haven't remained intact. The wonderfully vintage floral heart is ladylike and elegant - rich hyacinth is the most prominent note, with non-indolic jasmine and a hint of narcissus rounding it out. As it dries down further, powdery rose emerges, grounded by soft sandalwood (beautiful quality here, unlike the sandalwood substitute in many modern fragrances). The base is earthy and dirty - giving a gorgeous leathery quality that complements the aldehydic florals beautifully. It is very green - rich and mossy, thanks to in part the now-restricted oakmoss note, as well as the vetiver, patchouli and amber. I am sensitive to patchouli, and often dislike it in modern scents (it is often used too liberally with too few other ingredients), but in a good old-fashioned classic chypre such as this, it plays its part and complements the other notes. The aldehydic-floral accords lasts for hours, complemented perfectly by the divine earthy base. It eventually fades to a warm, ambery skin scent by the end of the day. Sillage is moderate, and longevity is very impressive. This is a beautiful example of a chypre, and has the complexity and high quality typical of such scents from its vintage. A classic, elegant, feminine chypre, it could now be comfortably worn by men, given the changes in perfume trends and tastes, as Glyph below points out. A true beauty from another era. 5/5.

GIVENCHY III (Vintage formula) 1970 An exquisite Chypre-floral-green creation, from the golden era. GIVENCHY III, Opens in a beautiful symphony of harmonious herbal, fresh and green accords of galbanum and gardenia under a veil of refined, slightly soapy aldehydes that intertwine with citrus notes of mandarin and the florality of bergamot. Other fruity and floral notes also accompany in a subtle way, and flirt with the elegance of this sophisticated Chypre; quickly giving way to an absolutely floral-white-green heart, of exquisite opulence, evoking an aura of sensuality and femininity. Within the large bouquet are the sweet non-indolic jasmines, a green touch of Hyacinth, the intoxicating narcissus intertwined with the bright and spicy carnation, creating the sensation of a living and vibrant nature. However, small fresh, soft, watery and slightly soapy tones of the lilies of the valley, leave something lighter and more sophisticated to that opulent weight of the flowers; evoking cleanliness and purity, while soft powdery nuances of iris and rose emerge that are perfectly interwoven, emanating the sublime beauty of a bygone era. As the perfume evolves, the oakmoss/absolute begins to emerge with more prominence, this moss is of very good quality!accompanied by other woods such as earthy, sweet patchouli, which merge with a somewhat dry and powdery vetiver, extending into perfect amber and leathery accords (ambergris and castoreum), soft but very present, anchoring in a warm and balsamic halo of Myrrh. Imparting depth, intensity, character and refinement to the composition. The substantivity on my skin reaches 8 hours. Diffusion is moderate with mild sillage. Givenchy III is an absolutely sublime creation! Perfumes like GIII are what keep me faithful to perfumery as an art. This wonderful emblematic of the house of Givenchy, was considered one of the best exponents of the Chypre-verde olfactory family.

Give this emerald back to me! Let me tell you, I HATE coconut and I absolutely HATE aldehyde, STILL I love this! You know why? Because I don't feel any of this too , because is very good blend. I think this perfume was the first feminist perfume made by RC. I don't know how much FL participated in this jewelry but I feel the powerful thunder of RC. It has the same power and determination as Arrogance, but it's lighter it doesn't freeze you, it doesn't scare you, it's just there to smell and admire it.In his time it was evening perfume, by the way I hate Marketing pictures have nothing to do with perfume,so when I went to the concerts of the EU Feminist League back in the 80's, you could smell Givenchy three by three blocks away at that time we didn't wear it, even though I loved it, because it seemed ultra used in my circles, and that's where my social life revolved, so I used to enjoy it at home or when I went out to the movies or in public places. When it started disappearing in the 90's from everyone's throat, I wore it like crazy. I can't describe the smell to you because it's hard to decompose and it doesn't smell like anything I know, someone said Prada d Iris .... hmm not really they may have been inspired by Givenchy III but it's not the same. What can I say, if you catch it try it! It is a fine perfume, sophisticated but green and strong, it is a perfume for a feminist cattle lady, who respects himself, who imposes respect and who when she steps in a room arouses a stream of:she is? Wow is younger that I expected! So much power and authority at her age huh! Nooo I heard she eat bimbos for breakfast and drinks the envy and disperation of her enemies.