Goutal
Ambre Fétiche

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Acordes dominantes
- âmbar
- balsâmico
- especiado quente
- esfumaçado
- baunilha
- amadeirado
Pirâmide olfativa
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Traduções chegam aos poucos — textos em inglês por enquanto.
- em inglês
As per the notes above, this wonderful fragrance from the house of Annick Goutal is an elixir of amber, frankincense, labdanum, styrax, benzoin, iris absolute, vanilla and Russian leather. Very interesting scent pyramid. I sprayed it on for a "review" - one spray on my wrists and one on my neck. Great warm, smoke-infused amber fills the air. A nice diffuser of styrax sits on the table in front of you...wafting notes towards your nose. Incense lurking underneath all of this, but not heavy and definitely an amber & vanilla/frankincense blend - like one I have that I burn around the holidays. Resinous and balmy...very nice. Soothing. Comforting. Expecting even deeper and darker notes to come, this surprisingly turns slightly toward Myrrhe Ardente about 30-40 minutes in - sharing a light "sweetness" with the labdanum, benzoin and vanilla combining to create a "creamy" texture for the nose, with a nice light smokiness now underneath. No beeswax or anything carmelized here at all - the warming amber begins to start resonating on your skin. Turning back again to a dusty vibe with a balmy undertone (hard to describe, because the accords interplay so intricately). As others said - not cloying at all. The resinous warmth still there, the smoke is clearing, but there are still very nice plumes wafting up from my skin...and we are moving towards the drydown. However, as Myrrhe Ardente is honeyed and you can almost feel benzoin crystals forming on your skin (just short of cloying - although that is part of its own beautiful nature), the iris absolute note here in Ambre Fetiche creates a nice lifted, powdery accord...which leads to a slight touch of deep, warm suede leather. It is faint - but creates a stage in the drydown (you will find it if you 'look' for it). I also notice the nice patchouli note blending with the composition, which is dark & earthy here - perfect harmony with the warm, resinous and slightly smoky amber that is still glowing with the benzoin. What happens is nothing short of beautiful...an experience in fragrance, not something you just spray. This is for connonsieurs and lovers of unique and true perfumery (as all Annick Goutal bottlings are). I try to mention that point in every review I do for a bottle of this house's work. This is niche, artistic and created with true imagery - not marketing in mind. The idea is to transcend the wearer (and those around them) to another place. This does for me, along with virtually every other Goutal I've ever had the joy of trying or owning. I adore this as a fragrance as well as respect it as olfactory art - it is a wonderful, unique, smoky amber scent and clearly unisex. Myrrhe Ardente is definitely far better on my wife's olive skin than my own. I think this will be as good or better on her as well, but I so adore it on my own and there is a connection here that I feel is deeply spiritual. The potion that Ambre Fetiche is in a bottle is truly wonderful - it is meant to worn and adorned. Not a casual fragrance, but definitely one I will reach for on special occassions and when I want to radiate warmth and feel serenity. Again, I don't give ratings to Goutal's work...the house creates art, so a quantitative rating is not apropos. I really, really admire this. Fantastic. **Update** - As I wore this again today, in a full wearing on my neck, wrists and backs of my hands - it showed incredible. I edited my review above and thought more about the late drydown (as this scent can last for well over 8 hours on skin with nice radiance and for days with a single spray on fabric. In the end, the glorious amber is what stays, albeit just slightly smoky. Instead of reapplying a couple of shots, I thought about the notes and what incense composition could "add" to the wearing. I reached for a sample vial of Comme des Garcons 2 Man...with its wonderful white smoke, wood, and vetiver. I felt two nice dabs on the backs of my hands would show well and it did indeed! The Goutal juice actually accentuated the projection of CdG 2 Man - making it more of an aura scent...a wonderful feeling. You don't lose the amber, resinous benzoin and vanilla, but instead refresh some top and heart notes. Very light application recommended. I didn't even spray it on from my CdG 2 Man bottle as I wanted to focus on enhancing the wearing of Ambre Fetiche, not overpower or dominate it. Highly recommended to try. After 3-4 hours, the light touch of CdG 2 Man faded and I refreshed the entire wearing with a couple of sprays of Ambre Fetiche and let it dry on the back of my hands for about 15 minutes. I then applied two more dabs of CdG 2 Man much earlier, while the Goutal was much fresher. Interestingly, there was very little conflict - they wore wonderfully together. Again, just two light dabs of CdG 2 Man. It still smelled fantastic - so, not just a scent one could "add" to a wearing at drydown, but actually blend if they so choose. Very impressive.
- em inglês
There are so many amber perfumes from which to choose. For someone new to this fabled accord of labdanum, vanilla, and benzoin (often with bergamot at the top to lift and a variety of incense materials, resins, and balsams in the base), it may be a bit overwhelming. Truth be told, amber can only be done so many ways and many scents out there that showcase it may rely more heavily on the sweeter vanilla and amber and avoid highlighting the more sensuous, animalic qualities of labdanum. There may be a tiny, wispy plume of smoke, a saturation of iso e super, or a dash of accessible fruits and florals. I am convinced that many green fragrance enthusiasts expect amber to always be quite sweet-smelling, almost gourmand. This would be furthest from the reality of the accord. Take this (rectangular bottle) version of Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche. One of the more smoky and sultry ambers, any sweetness from vanilla is tempered by a higher ratio of benzoin that reveals more of its leathery thickness and a buttery, unctuous, labdanum. In fact, the ratio of the three weighs heavily on Cistus ladanifer, and with this the amber enters much more of an incense direction (labdanum is used just as much as olibanum in many incenses). It's also worth noting that there is a sizable dose of Styrax (Liquidambar styraciflua), a leathery resin with a profound fixative quality and its peculiar styrene top note that imparts this combustible quality that one would find in burning incense. There is just enough patchouli in its base to evoke a dry woods sensation in the dry down. I also wonder if fossilized amber absolute was actually used. Yes, even it is thought that the Amber accord was named as it imagines the scent amber resin would emit if it did have a fragrance, fossilized amber IS actually used as a perfume material! A tenacious material with fixative quality, it is a dry distillation that brings out a very smoky, almost tar-like quality, with elements of coniferous resins (as to be expected), and can be used in traces in a composition to lend some really striking effects. I have some in my possession, and could swear it was used, but perhaps it's just the styrax interacting with the other materials. One can imagine, though... A stellar amber that has unfortunately been reformulated to a rather tame version in the newer Goutal bottles, one should seek out a rectangular bottle to experience the intentions of Isabelle Doyen. A really spectacular amber to behold.
- em inglês
Goutal Ambre Fetiche (1069A/11, March 2021, 100ml. for USD 57) First impression Oh god, why? Why everything so far from Goutal seems done so right. This is my imaginary interpretation of Amber fragrance. Not too heavy but keep the spicy aspect there. This is quite reminded me of Ambre Sultan without heavy Aromatic component. Delightful and charming, somewhat smell like skin. Perfect, just perfect. God, I love this. 10/10 just 10/10 Please try, please people try this one. ===== Refresh note on December 16, 2024... A revisit this one like uhm.. 3 or 4 times.. uhm.. sorry people. But I am now think that Ambre Fetiche is not really "That" Beautiful. After few visit, I think Ambre Feitche rather unbalance. When the scent try to hold "Goutal-Estique" but working with heavy rendition. It result in slight lack-luster Amber fragrance... The incense is prominent, and it is the kind of incense that few like Brunt dark incense. (Not that kind of aldehydic incense) and the amber in this feel very blocky dark amber with modern material. that's majority that I can sense from this one. From 3 releases from Les Orientalistes, I think Musc and incense one go along really well with Goutal-Estique. Spicy aldehydic incense & Cozy Warm Woody Musk, this one easy to understand but it lack Melodia. It's just blocky amber all the way. My suggestion for alternative -> Patchouli Imperial (Similar blocky amber but the smoke is ethereal, smell like Church) -> Benjoin Boheme (For people who looks amber in natural stage) drop from assessment. Ps. jan 14, 2025 - it retest this just for fun and I think it somehow reminds me of Eau Lente by Diptyqye. This one is chuckier and mentol. I think I will give this a pass to declutter.
- em inglês
This stuff is amazing!! I was a little afraid of the smoke before trying, but as others have said it's not overpowering, because of the great balance it has with the Ambre, and other resins. I can definitely pick up the Benzoin, the Patch, and the Vanilla. None of it is overpowering. Can also pick up the flowers. Slight powder from the Iris, and slight rosey sweetness from the Geranium. This may be the most balanced, and well blended scent I have ever smelled. Currently my favorite amber, and I am still working on exploring this scent. Hint, hint. ;) There is an Edit coming as I have something that sounds special on the way. Something that also sounds too good to be true. Can't share about it until I actually have it in my hands, and have tried. Stay tuned. ;) Edit: Found a Amber Fetiche Parfume Extrait from 1981 at an online store, and ordered it. It is wonderful as you might imagine. Liquid is a darker and cloudy true amber color. It came in a beautiful flacon with a big capitol A on the front with actual bronze metal corners.. Very good performer. Labdanum is the star of this show. It is the luckiest and most prized possession in my collection. I think something like this probably happens for everyone if you are in this game long enough. ;)
- em inglês
Ambre Fétiche Goutal (9344A/11 2019-12-10) Ambre Fétiche has been around since 2007 and it used to be in a rectangular bottle (old formulation) which was well received. Current bottles are exquisite looking. The atomizer sprayer gives off a timed fine mist and you'll need to ensure a proper half second full press to disperse the fine mist with a good spread. It's a damn good sprayer. Juice is a lovely amber color. The opening blast was very pungent resinous balsamic, I think the notes of Styrax and Benzoin hits up my nose first so what I smelt was just a strong dose of pungent balsamic vinegar at the top but that's the Styrax/Benzoin. You'll need patience with this and do let it settle for minutes and the vinegar like balsamic settles and finally the opening is what it's supposed to be. Pleasant to smell, Very good Quality smooth Amber, with the Incense supporting it. There aren't many good Amber fragrances like Ambre Fétiche. This is a Airy, Rich, Warm, Sensual, dirty, dry incense Amber. Niche Quality. It's probably more suitable for cooler weather and is office friendly. It sits and settles on your skin for hours so it's pretty intimate too. Many ladies would love this.
- em inglês
Reminds me of my German grandmother who lived in a wooden house with lots of hidden treasures. It was a slightly spooky place but that's what made it so special. She was a vegan and her kitchen was full of surprises: foodstuffs, seeds, nuts, sachets of this and that and everywhere was this talcum powdery smell. Her spice rack was enormous and everything was intriguing from a tactile point of view, or it just smelled good and interesting. I think of "Ambre Fetiche" as a tamed version of "Shalimar". The latter might have more fun and is arguably younger in attitude and appeal, but A.F. has got more wisdom, zen, and is perhaps more reflective, sensitive and calm, yet still warm and hospitable. Just like my granny. Linear in development but oh so lovely warm and reliable. Just like your favourite winter cashmere sweater that your granny knitted for you. 10/10 for a masterpiece of memory-lane. They don't make grannies like this anymore. BTW this is equally wearable by men who "have seen it all, been there - done that, and have nothing more to prove". The old and wise caterpillar, sitting and smoking atop the mushroom (Alice in Wonderland) would smell like this!
- em inglês
Ambre Fétiche by Annick Goutal, just like the name implies, is not for the faint of heart. Maybe I’m influenced by the name, but I’ve tried AF on several times, and it just keeps delivering. At first, AF reminded me of vintage Shalimar minus the citrus with extra leather and incense. Then I picked up the rubber note, which isn’t listed. To me, the rubber is so pervasive, that it makes me wonder if I’m supposed to be picking up the “Russian” leather instead. By the way, what exactly is “Russian” leather accord? Anyway, the incense, leather, and rubber combine to create a garage effect. Yes, AF is a couple of mechanics wearing Shalimar and chain smoking. In other words, AF is a very atmospheric fragrance: like Avignon, it seems to envelope one in a cloud of fragrance that could be originating from the surroundings instead of melding with the skin. (Thankfully, the 15 mL splash bottle is the perfect amount of AF for me and I will probably reach for this during the winter months.) Final verdict: AF is good, but not one of my go to fragrances. I’ll just stick with Bulgari Black, thank you. Decent performance; overall rating 3/5
- em inglês
This is the only ambre fragrance I have smelled that isn't sweet at all; it's dry, arid, almost bitter. To my nose it's the labdanum and benzoin that are the strongest here. For me it was love at first smell. For my husband though it took a while to get used to it. His first reaction was "Do you like this??? it smells like a church!". After a month he said "Are you wearing your incense fragrance again?" "Yes", I said. "Do you like it?" "I don't mind it" was his reaction surprising me, because knowing my husband, that's one of the best reactions he's ever had since he dislikes perfumes, especially strong ones:) I can't detect the incense, however I trust my husband to detect single notes better than I do. This perfume makes me feel confident and sexy in a dangerous way(!) but is also calming and comforting. I wear it all year, but I wear it only for myself. I don't think others will readily appreciate it; it's dark, gothic, slightly musty and I admit, a little masculine in a good way. This is not a perfume for the faint at heart or those who want to gather compliments for their perfume choice.
- em inglês
This is my 3rd amber scent (along with Nez a Nez and Serge Lutens) and I totally love this! It's so unlike the other two and I am glad that I bought this based on the reviews here. Not a lot I can add from what is below - dark, sexy, smokey, incensey, rich, warming, amber! I don't feel this is heavy or strong - especially if you compare it with the silage monsters of the late 80's early 90's! I get all the notes present as well - even the powdery iris as the incense top note wears down! I now have 14 of Annick's fragrances and I can definitely say this one is so off the beaten track of all of them! There is something in all the fragrances that tells me they are AG's (similarly with Miss Dior/Dior Dior/Dioressence/Dorella) and I recognise an AG scent a mile away ..... this is different I would never have smelt the AG signature in this! It makes me want to wear my leather coat and step out into the chilly day! One for late autumn and definitely a winter warmer - I would recommend if you love incense and amber - what a combination!!!! Definitely unisex as well.......share a bottle with your SO!
- em inglês
Okay so Ive been lurking around this gem for over two weeks and today I finally bought it. Let me get this straight, I adore amber/ambregris but there are some notes that harmonize with amber and some that ruin it, rose for example (it literally stings my nose). However, incense and styrax go beautifully with amber. Ambre fétiche is a harmonious, well balanced and head turning perfume that quickly made it to my top three fragrances. It opens with spicy notes and a divine incense note wirhout being overpowering. After a couple of minutes the famous amber makes its entrance and stays on my skin for nine hours or more. Its a unique and mouth watering blend with great silleage. This just might be the holy grail for true amber lovers. Not the sweet, sugary kind, its animalic and seducing! Im usually not a big fan of Annick Goutal but this one is a revelation in a whole different league of niche perfumery. Although the price is rather high its worth every single penny and if youre looking for a high class, real amber scent look no further, this is it.
- em inglês
What a fragrance! Impressive! Strong resinous/incensy/balsamic opening, with a prominent styrax note. This unapologetic stage will last for an hour or so. Then it will slowly leave room to the iris and finish with a vanilla/benzoin drydown, similar to many amber fragrances. A stunning masculine-leaning opening, that despite not being really similar to Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan's and MFK Grand Soir's openings, that expresses the same level of creativity and boldness. The drydown is a more classic feminine-leaning one, and is "just" great, compared to other amber fragrances. Overall fantastic, and a decently priced runner-up - in my personal amber frag ranking - just behind (the pricey) MFK Grand Soir. Note that Van Cleef & Arpels Ambre Imperial is also closely fighting for the 2nd place... Anyways, male amber lovers: this is a must! Female amber lovers: you may want to get a 15ml bottle before going for the regular 100ml. Simply a stunning creation signed -again- by Isabelle Doyen.
- em inglês
I smell lots of incense, labdanum, amber, vanilla, leather and patchouli. The patchouli is quite intense and adds a really earthy root or soil scent to the mix which cuts the sweetness of the vanilla and amber. It’s a fairly linear fragrance but every time I wear this it somehow smells a little different to me which probably depends on how much I apply. When I wear this there is always the smell of incense, vanilla and leather, but sometimes I get mixed-in smells of Indian spices, sometimes a cigar pipe, sometimes a head shop, and sometimes I smell fresh soil. This is a pretty heavy perfume even if you dab it on lightly. It will even last you through the day and into the next morning if you don't shower before going to bed. I’ve been wearing this the past couple of days to work and I’m sure I’m offending someone, but I don’t care because I love the way it smells.
- em inglês
I've tried several amber EDPs over the last few years; one was too dry and austere, one was cloyingly sweet. But in Ambre Fetiche I've found what I consider to be the best for my chemistry. A dry, smokey incense, resinous and dark, with a touch of sweetness peeking out in the heart notes, this fragrance showcases amber in a way that hits all the right notes for me. The smokey incense note never disappears, remaining as the base throughout its very long lifespan, and gently giving way in the final notes to a soft vanilla accord. The leather listed as a note never seems dominant on me, it's more the resinous quality that lingers along with the vanilla note. Incredible sillage and longevity; use sparingly. I dabbed on a few drops in the morning and could still pick up the scent 14 hours later. A beautiful fall/winter scent, and great for men as well.
- em inglês
Update... My review is based on the concentrate version. Several stores where I live brought back Annick Goutal's fragrance. I have been waiting and hoping that Ambre Fetiche was being added to the line. Unfortunately neither store brought it in so I decided to make a blind purchase, I bought it online and just received it yesterday. The aroma of amber and incense with Styrax and frankincense makes it a very sophisticated/classy..for the winter months aroma. After a good hour the aroma of leather combined with frankincense/incense has a really desirable/sexy blend. Longevity and Silage is excellent lasting over 8hrs being a EDP. Finally, I own several fragrance and Ambre Fetiche completes my collections. Ambre is perfect and best during the evening/tuxedo wear. This fragrance is sexy/luxurious. 9/10 worth having in your collection.
- em inglês
Ambre Fétiche is indeed much more close fragrance to Miyako Annayake than Ambre Sultan. Yet hinoki wood in Miyako makes the difference. As for Ambre Fétiche...It reminds Church not in an incense way, but in wax-smell way. When I was visiting monasteries, lots of them earn their living on producing herbs and candles, monks say prayer on each candle, endlessly, while making them, so if you ever been in their candle workshop you could connect Ambre Fétiche with that ancient, natural way of candle-making, warm melted wax, the real wax, not this coloured plastic we used to see in Yankee's ones) Its quite linear scent, but with nice depth and thickness so lovers of amber and natural wax, those who love resinous aromas and ancient-feel - that's your type of juice. And mine as well, as a blown out candle mist.
- em inglês
I decided to try Ambre Fetiche as a suitable alternative to my much beloved and VERY EXPENSIVE Profumum Roma "Ambra Aurea." I do NOT often wear straight-up amber fragrances, as I favor ambers with mixed florals, incense, some patchouli, vanilla, etc. Amouage "Guidance" will forever have my heart. Memo Paris "Flam," Frederic Malle "Portrait of a Lady," Chanel "Coromandel," Creed "Queen of Silk," Masque Milano "Kintsugi." YES, PLEASE!! Goutal "Ambre Fetich" scratches the itch. The newer iterations of Ambre Fetiche are definitely less resinous, less syrupy and less dark than Ambra Aurea. There's amber along with a brief but pleasant floral-ish melange in AF's drydown. The additional notes soften things up quite a bit and IMHO makes this perfume an easy reach. I like Ambre Fetich a lot. It's nice.
- em inglês
Ambre Fetiche is tied with Ambre Sultan and Ambra for my all-time favorite amber composition, though they are very different scents. From Goutal's "Les Orientalistes" line, Ambre Fetiche is indeed fetish-worthy. The down side is that it's not going to knock anyone over with its sillage, and needs re-application to get through a day. I have to apply quite a lot to get the effect I want, but once I do, I'm very happy. It's a quintessentially warm amber, with a little spice, a little incense, a little labdanum among some resinous components. I don't notice anything in the way of a leather effect, though that is listed. It has a glowing, seductive, calming quality that I really love; I just wish it was a bit stronger. It would be equally seductive on a man.
- em inglês
I fell in love on first sniff. Smoky, warm, rich, resinous. It smells like you just came in from the cold, in a beautiful leather jacket, now you are sitting by the fire and the heat and soft light is soothing you. And to complete the experience, you sniff on a bottle of double strength vanilla extract. It is dry, perhaps the most all-encompassing, velvety fragrance I have ever smelt. It makes me feel warm on the inside, like I am wrapped in a big fluffy heated towel. I think it's incredibly sexy too, it's not just soothing, it smells confident and "badass". Even with its enormous strength, it's not overpowering at all. Use just one spray to last for hours. It is decidedly unisex. This may be my new favorite fragrance...simply incredible.
- em inglês
I do happen to have an amber fetish myself and this fragrance scratches my itch BIG TIME! This is an amazing juice, totally bonkers I've never smelled anything like it...truly! A hugely complex spiced amber fragrance that somehow reminds me (strangely) of how my sinuses feel after I come out of the swimming pool at the gym and inhaling the crisp, green, evening air. I don't why that is...this is a rich fragrance not fresh or green at all, neither does it smell like chlorine but this post swimming analogy remains. I have no experience with this house but what a fantastic start to my discovery. Ambre fetiché is a rare smelling fragrance that combines some of my favourite things, masses of amber and incense. I'm totally sold on this!
- em inglês
This is a potion. You have to get or try the original in the square bottles (the newer are weak). Forget Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan, Tom Ford Amber Absolute, and whichever others get all the praise. Those are pansies compared to Goutal’s Ambre Fetiche. Amber Fetiche is a swirling dervish of bold, thick, sweet, sooty amber. Amber Fetiche smells like dark arts; smoky October campfires in the forest with singing and chanting in the distance. Imagine crisp autumnal nights outside just after sunset when you aren’t completely sober, you see your breath in the air, things are a bit blurry, but in the end everything is good. Amber Fetiche smells of life and death; the full experience of life.
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