Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille

Mon Parfum Cheri, Par Camille! A wonderful tribute to Annick by Camille, just like Annick created years before Eau de Camille for her daughter. One, playful and young, for a little girl. The other, dark and nostalgic, a late tribute to one of the pioneers of the French niche scene. Mon Parfum Cheri is a tribute to patchouli with the aid of violet (one of very few fragrances where I actually love the note), Iris, plum and heliotropin. Underneath, the famous Prunol base which harkens back to wonders like Diorama and Femme de Rochas. All three could stand proudly together, scenting the black and white Hollywood movie stars of the early 30’s. Glamour like you don’t see anymore, in dark purple hues and heavy velvet drapes. MPC opens, shifts and ends with patchouli; raw, rich, earthy in full glory, avoiding hippy associations but instead showcasing notes and accords that accompany the note. Violet, a note I don’t particularly enjoy, lends its ozonic quality to provide bursts of freshness along the ride. There aren’t citrus notes like in so many fragrances; instead, violet provides the glass of water to this rich chocolate cake. Plum, a succulent and erotic fruit, provides juiciness and warmth, accompanied by peach and coconut lactones that together make the fragrance become creamier as the day progresses. Instead of sweet notes, these here provide the softness and slight sweetness that comes and goes, making MPC more approachable and less stoic. There are hints of cardamom, a cool spice, that provides hints of warm spiciness. Could there also be some cumin? The fragrance is slightly animalic; the smell of warm skin, lost kisses, embraces. Cumin is definitely there. Heliotropin, with a slight almond nuance provides the forbidden, the mystique. A fragrance that is dangerous is always more intriguing. Femme Fatale, Homme Fatal. Passionate and sensual. Iris, profound and solemn, rich and fatty in its orris butter facet, is threaded throughout the evolution. At times powdery, at times dark and rooty but always beautiful, Iris evokes the softness of a lovers kiss. Velvet gloves that are slowly removed to caress a peachy cheek. Softness and strength. MPC is a fragrance of emotions. More chypre in feel although not technically one, it is both heavily charged with associations of past creations due to its complexity and heft, but also because of the tribute behind it. Simple notes that are easily identifiable, deft in their combination and masterful blending. Evolving and evoking of loving memories, rich nuances and strong presence; it lasts easily a whole day with ever present sillage. And this is the edt! For me, one of the best Annick Goutal creations and one I was smart enough to buy 2 bottles of as soon as it was launched, fearing it couldn’t last too long on the market. Unfortunately, I was right. My ruby red bottles with black lace bow will have to last me for ever. Thankfully the 2/3 sprays one needs to stay fragrant for many hours will help achieve this. Lovers of vintage perfumes; absolute must try!

At first spray, this composition seemed disjointed- I could smell quite separately plum and the upper, medicinal notes of patchouli oil, but after 20 minutes, everything came together beautifully. Violet and heliotrope moved forward to fill in the gap, forming a purpled bridge between the plum-tweaked cassis and deep earth of patchouli; there are resinous woods (cedar), and bitter myrrh; a pale powdering of iris adds a star-like shimmer. The effect calls to mind candied violets atop a dark-chocolate cake- the color of the bottle's glass is quite fitting! Supremely elegant, yet at the same mystical, solemn, and dry, this is a unique fragrance that a spirited personality might dismiss as lacking in jubilance, but an introspective one, I think, would find it a worthy tool to emanate a restrained- but passionate- heart. ADDENDUM 2NOV19: Awhile back (in autumn of 2016) I managed to track down bottles of both the EDP and EDT in the original, wine-colored bottles. Prices since then have continued to rise to extravagant levels, especially since its discontinuation - such a shame! I know of no other fragrance quite like this... with its vintage, fruity-chypre feel, and yet very modern, boho-like structure.and sensibility. Absolutely unique and quite daring. While taking some time to compare the EDT to the EDP, I noticed that there is a subtle difference in balance between the two... The EDT is "drier", with stronger violet and heliotrope, and less plum-sweetness; the base of the EDT is also a bit "thinner" with reduced musk, myrrh, and whatever that low, woody-mossy note is that stands in for oakmoss - although the cedar seems stronger... By contrast, the plum in the EDP is richer, and the base is notably more full-bodied... and, overall, I prefer the balance of the EDP... and apparently so do others, as it is becoming more scarce than the EDT.

Of all discontinued perfume, this one is the saddest of all for me. I think the beauty of this scent really reveals itself in the mid notes, & especially the dry down. I agree with other reviews, earthy patchouli, with the plum & purple florals that are more evident in the dry down. It does have a genuine proper vintage lipstick/make up vibe - it’s hard waxy floral, NOT sweet fruity or vanilla tinged greasy 80/90s glossy type make up. When it was released I first went to ask to sample MPCPC & the SA said “oh, it’s vile ...everyone hates it” Well I think it’s because it’s not immediately a crowd pleaser. No sugar sweet pretty top notes to “hook in” the short attention span that many customers demand before they dismiss & move on. It’s like an older classic style of perfume - requires patience & the desire to be in it for the long haul. I’ve caught people sticking their noses into my cardigans telling me how lovely they smell...well, that’s the dry down for you ...it is beautiful, unique, & unlike anything else I have. I have both EDT & EDP versions of this. They are slightly different. I find the EDP to be a little fruitier. They both perform well & smell high quality, but I prefer the EDT where I think the florals are more prominent. Patchouli in both is fantastic imo. Amazing (to me) that a perfume this good CAN still be made in the 2000s, esp when compared to some of the poor quality junk that gets pushed out nowadays. Just a terrible pity it wasn’t more appreciated. Still, the public gets what the public wants, & the public wants what the public gets...the thought of one day running out of MPCPC makes me want to weep.

Another olfactory masterpiece has been created by Annick Goutal This is my fourth AG acquisition and its the most beautiful and unusual IMO. This fragrance is a dark, earthy and dirty patchouli which smells like the taste of snails. The composition contains a sour and fermented plum, some iris, violet and heliotrope, which blends into a very grown up, very fresh and very beautiful scent. This is like nothing that I have ever smelled before. It has been described as 'hypnotising' and actually, I cannot think of a better word to use to describe this gorgeous perfume. The initial blast is boozy, dirty, earthy, sour and fermented, but this quickly morphs into an addictive fresh and beautiful orchestra of notes which keep wafting up my nose and causes me to inhale deeply and savour its olfactory beauty. I am in love!! This is just heavenly in every way possible. To me, AG frags are eccentric and quirky in a genius way! Only AG can put together these ingredients and get such art out of them The silage for the EDT is amazing and longevity is fantastic especially considering the fact that I only sprayed a small amount of this on my arm a few hours ago but can smell its fabulous aroma constantly. This is a perfume wardrobe must have for die hard patchouli lovers, wonderful!! Just wonderful!

The notes do not tell the whole story. Personally, I adore this fragrance but I can see why it is polarizing. This is not your typical powdery, lipsticky affair grounded by patchouli. So, if you were expecting that you are in for a rude awakening. First of all, this is totally unisex. Often powdery fragrances smell traditionally feminine, but not so here. This is first and foremost earthy, as in fertile topsoil. I wouldn’t be surprised if there was birch tar in this because the opening is very leathery. The opening reminds me very strongly of Byredo 1996, a fragrance I almost scrubbed off the first time I tried but have nevertheless come to love. I can see many having the same reaction here. As it dries down, the earthiness subsides revealing a luscious, spicy plum redolent of Femme Rochas. All the while, there is a lipstick/makeup bag accord holding it all together. So, this scent is a bit strange. My 6 year old son said it smelled like “an antique shop with broken clocks and weird furniture.” I can see that. It smells to me like the inside of vintage leather handbag caked with waxy residue, with a dash of earthy funk thrown in. It’s the perfect marriage of the old-school chypre and a lipstick fragrance. It wasn’t at all what I was expecting, but it’s a masterpiece.