Myrrhe Ardente

What an addictive fragrance! At first I found my edp too sweet. A strong honey accord made it too cloying for my taste. Then the second time I wore it I began to find it more appealing. On first application, a blast of intoxicating booziness (reminiscent of rum + pepper) makes up for its woodsy dryness, concealing the sharp bitterness of myrrh. Then it begins to smell more like smoky, spicy, ambery frankincense than like myrrh. As it develops for some more minutes, I get a less tangy (but intense) ashy-woody accord, a sort of smoky bittersweet woodsiness, almost chocolatey in its dark sweetness (as Missk pointed out in her great review). Sillage is moderate, but lasting power is incredible: more than 12 hours on my skin, and more than a week on fabrics. I wish other AG scents lasted half as much! MA is not exactly a mood enhancer like other fragrances in my wardrobe, but it certainly has an effect on my spirits. Even if it doesn’t exactly smell like myrrh during most of its development, it still has some of this resin’s soothing properties. On evenings of very stressful days I spritz some on my wrists and the result is instant serenity. I find its honeyed woodsiness very relaxing, but maybe it's just my memory that makes me perceive it that way, for the scent reminds me of my granny's cozy beeswax candles, under the spell of which I felt so blissfully at ease and untroubled as a child (yes, Kasozo, isn't it wonderful how some scents can transport us to childhood? I can even visualise my granny's house!). MA also takes you back to primitive liturgies of healing from the time when medicine, religion and perfume were closely linked. Indeed, this scent seems to evoke a mystique, not to speak of the religious association with the Magi from the Bible in the Les Orientalistes collection. This ritualistic vibe combines with its sensuality to make the fragrance even more enticing. About the Orientalistes series paying homage to paintings depicting “beauty rituals in harems”, I don't like the idea that I'm wearing a fragrance with any possible link with sexual slavery, remote as it might be. The times of poor odalisques and concubines seen only as exotic, lascivious beauty myths must end at once! MA is incandescence in a bottle, another scent brimming with passion (or with the mystique of passion) that can be related to gems like Opium (also including incense and myrrh, by the way. And wasn't Saint Laurent a true "orientalist" himself?). I’d love to smell this masterpiece on a man, but sadly most of the men I know are more into aromatic fragrances.

Where is the myrrh, and why does this smell like root beer?! That was my first reaction. But I have to admit, I like this creamy root beer scent. It smells like somebody singed some dried herbs, made root beer with them, and then added some vanilla ice cream. I have always loved root beer floats. I used to buy a particular brand of root beer that tasted especially dark and herbal, and this reminds me of it. Again, I ask: Where is the myrrh? Upon close inspection and numerous attempts to scrutinize, I do detect it. Myrrhe Ardente features the most common myrrh, the kind burned in a Catholic church, the sacred C. myrrha, which has a dry, slightly bitter, astringent woody scent. I think they blended it with sweet myrrh, also called opoponax (C. guidotti), which is sweeter and more balsamic. It's as though the perfumer wanted to take the resins and play up some other things that compliment its scent (i.e. herbs and spices) in lieu of building a myrrh "soliflore". In Myrrh Ardente, myrrh seems like the keystone, not the bridge. Root beer is a mix of many different herbs and spices. I have scoured the internet, and I can't find one single note pyramid for this fragrance that includes herbs, spices, nor root beer. Regardless I detect nutmeg, licorice, star anise and fennel at the very least. One component of root beer is honey, and it's easy to detect creamy beeswax in the base. I also thought Myrrh Ardente was as much an immortelle fragrance as it is a myrrh fragrance because of its sweet, syrupy, herbal profile. Perhaps it was discontinued because it doesn't connect with its audience. We expected myrrh, but we got root beer instead. Either this is a myrrh masterpiece, or it's just an oddball that is rightfully discontinued. In any case, I absolutely love Myrrhe Ardente. It's warm without being stuffy. It's creamy and comforting like a root beer float on summer evening. I have never smelled anything even remotely similar to it. It works well in either warm or cold weather. Sillage is average to low, and it lasts several hours. It's an absolute keeper. I feel lucky I found a bottle. (My bottle is from 2008)

One of the stronger creations from the post Annick period, belonging to the Les Orientalistes collection. This series represents Goutal, a very traditionally French perfume house, interpreting oriental materials through its own aesthetic language. The four fragrances each focus on a different theme: amber, myrrh, incense, and musk. Here, the central material is myrrh. What makes this fragrance distinctive is its dark, old fashioned sweetness. At first spray, it can evoke herbal soda, black cherry liqueur, or licorice syrup. The sweetness feels shadowed and resinous rather than bright. As the fragrance develops, woods and myrrh gradually pull the sweetness downward into something drier and more restrained. Beeswax becomes increasingly noticeable. It adds warmth close to the skin, creating a soft waxy texture between the myrrh and benzoin without turning syrupy like honey. Guaiac wood contributes a dry wooden nuance. Later on, the skin is left with a warm balsamic glow. It feels especially suited to colder weather. The most impressive aspect is the treatment of the myrrh itself. It is not pushed into an overtly religious direction, nor turned into a dense sugary resin scent. Instead, the composition preserves the difficult aspects of myrrh: the medicinal tone, the bitterness, the herbal quality, and the waxy sweetness. The structure is intricate yet highly layered, allowing the sweet, bitter, waxy, and woody facets to remain distinct. At the same time, it still carries the restrained and refined French sensibility closely associated with Annick’s style.

Beautiful reviews before mine and well deserved for this magic potion. The ingredients and different facets are well described already. Regarding that I will only add that what amazes me the most is the use of beeswax in the beginning of the scent... it is a great complement to the myrrh and I think it's deeply captivating. I got shocked. The "ardente" part is immediately evident... you feel something is burning in front of you... it is truly fascinating and well composed. I may disagree I don't find the beginning sickly sweet but instead buttery, waxy, tremendously compelling and sexy. Myrrh tends to be sweet but at the beginning is somehow dark here, like a ceremony of incense where something important is happening. Think of Avignon to give you an idea. Myrrhe ardente is not an easy scent for everyone. It's more likely to be "respected" than actually "worn" by most people imo. It falls more into the "weird" scents we all like to have from time to time. Unique, forbidden, unexpected for those around. It creates a certain distance, a very refined experience indeed. After several samplings of Les Orientalistes I must say this is the one I prefer for its subtlety and harmonious development. The others have eventually fatigued my nose unfortunately. Very unisex and loooong lasting. My new precious ceremonial scent (this is not to say I won't be wearing it everywhere anyways lol).

So what does Myrrhe Ardente smell like? To my nose it smells a lot like an especially spicy, artisan crafted root beer when first sprayed. In this first blast of scent I clearly smell unlisted notes of black pepper, star anise and cinnamon. As the opening notes fade on my skin, I briefly catch hints of raspy dark woods and tar before the whole composition takes a completely unexpected U turn back toward the familiar root beer accords of the opening. The dry down is more overtly vanillic and the myrhhe of the title finally comes into focus. To summarize my experience: the top notes are dry spicy, the heart notes are bitter tar covered woods, and the dry down is a warm and satisfying, resinous vanilla. Sillage: close to non-existent, this wears close to the skin. Longevity: 5 hours An interesting and nuanced interplay of spicy, bitter and sweet elements. The dry down of this scent could be packaged by Demeter and sold as "Root beer Float" and no one would bat an eyelash. That being said, if you love root beer or are looking for a warm resinous vanilla look no further. Update April 2014: I've gone through two bottles of this and have just repurchased my third.

I love scents of incense, myrrh, etc, and I find this perfume very good. In fact, like all fragrances of Les Orientalistes’ Collection. But this is my favorite. Some people say, in a not flattering manner, the aroma is candle’s Church. And I think it's right, but I like it. Obviously, when the candle wax is of nice quality. It's like watching mass at the São Bento’s Monastery, listening to Gregorian chants. It is not for less, the myrrh and beeswax are the most intense notes. When I smell the perfume directly in bottle, can distinguish the vetiver, but on my skin nothing appears. I have two perfumes with prominently Guaiac Wood (Le Labo and Korres), and I don't smell any of this note in MA. I think the time to feel the individual raw materials has come, as I want to go deeper in the theme of fragrances... After fifteen minutes, vanilla and tonka appear well soft. Overall, it's the smell of myrrh with royal beeswaxl all the time. But also, that's what I want to feel. Projection and sillage of moderate to strong. I use without fear of being happy, even at the office.

I have been at Myrrhe Ardente for about a week now, and I am still perplexed--astounded. How does such a rather simple composition develop so erratically over the course of a not just a single wearing, but multiple ones? Every time I wear it, something different happens, but it is always something good! The first time I wore it, it just smoldered on my flesh. It was the feeling of floating through a ninteenth-century opium den; it was something I could have laid down in and never gotten out of. But then the second time I wore it, it took a bittersweet turn that reminded me of licorice--no, sassafras--no, horehound. Whatever it was, it was a very familiar and comforting scent from my childhood. Since then, MA has produced different faces of smoke and bitter-sweets. I never experience the same thing wearing this beguiling fragrance, and I have noticed this mysterious mutability in several Annick Goutal fragrances. Sheer mastery...

Beautiful warm, toasty myrrh. This is like curls of myrrh incense smoke as opposed to basic myrrh resin, it must be thanks to the addition of beeswax, benzoin and sweet tonka bean. This is a simple yet beautiful perfume, it feels natural, very unisex, slightly smoky (like woodsmoke). The smokiness is definitely thanks in part to vetiver, paired with wood resins and beeswax the effect is gentle woodsmoke I'm off to Dawick botanic gardens today which is on an old estate famous for its huge ancient trees. The leaves will be turning russet and gold, Myrrhe Ardente will be just perfect with my dark brown wooly dress (it's getting slightly more chilly here in Scotland) I've been wearing dabs from a sample, sprayed it's probably stronger, but the sillage seems good - moderate, and longevity 4 hours plus, probably more if more generously sprayed, or on clothes. Would be gorgeous indeed on a wool scarf! (Thanks to @yohji for sample :) )

First of all..i am a huge fan of Les Orientalistes line and i will surely get them all. This was the first niche fragrance i ever bough and the one i liked most from that line (now my taste is moving thowards Ambre fetiche lately..). I remember i entered the store and i said "I want a perfume that Cleopatra would wear..an incense that smells like something ancient, rich, exotic and mithological" and this is it! It smells like an ancient egyptian or babilonic temple in the middle of the coronation of the new queen: The herbal purifying mystical scent of the myrrhe and the deep luxurious ambers mixed with a hint of smoke, and then a sweet delicate touch of somehting like liquorice or anise. At the draydown the smoke trace fades and it makes the fragrance sweeter and warmer, really conforting in winter when i constantly reach for this perfume as my daily chosen one. Superwarm, rich, dark, alluring, diferent and..ancient..LOVE IT!

After finally getting my nose on a little spray decant of this, my first experience was disappointing. It just didn't seem to be present at all. I had to sniff RIGHT next to my skin to get anything. Second try, it's quite different! This is a gorgeous warm, dry scent that I feel is great year-round. It's a bit on the sweet side, but that is the nature of myrrhe. It lasts well, but the projection is minimal. Of course, I'm only testing from one spray on the back of my hand, and a couple of strategic sprays for a proper wearing would likely help the projection. Overall, it's gorgeous and addictive. I would love a scent like this, but I'm being very selective as to what goes on my want list right now until I get the list down to a manageable size. Not sure why my two testings were so different.

My favourite among Annick Goutal's Les Orientaistes collection. First of all, while equally well-crafted Ambre Fetiche reminds yet of so many, Myrrhe Ardente is the One That Haunting. It's one of most unique skilful and natural myrrhs I came across, which borders with sweetness of beeswax. The smell that hits me at first is not as musty as you would expect from your typical myrrh, its smell of smoky and smoldering woodiness of guiac with weird, but pleasant dosage of mildew, its a smoky-medicinal-sweet fragrance in few words. The base is relaxing and dry, different type of smokiness, this time from vetiver, but it always remains sweet, soft and sensual.

A wonderful atmospheric scent. I can smell everything listed. It makes me think of autumn days of mellow fruitfulness and bonfires. Its a warm Myrhh that is easy to wear. The wax, benzoin, Tonka make it very accessible to all as they soften and round the myrhh. Id say bang on unisex. It doesn't take you to a Roman Catholic church with one sniff like Unum Lavs. The Tonka adds just the right amount of sweetness. If you love Myrhh then this is worth hunting down. A tragedy that it was discontinued. I get moderate longevity and less than moderate sillage. The perfect scent to wear when it's getting chilly.

Today its minus 23 degrees celcius. I reach for this seldom worn fragrance in my shelf. I get a sharp incency smell the first few minutes, then I forget about it. Then a few hours later as my body is warmer i get a wonderful sweet vanilla, tonka bean and myrrh scent. It does't develop any further but who cares! Its comforting and brings me peace. Lives om throughout the day. On the wrist it's boring but om warmer more intimate parts its bewitching!

Interesting interplay between myrrh and benzoin, made sweet with a touch of vanilla, dry with barely-discernable vetiver, and spumoni-like with its note of anise floating above. The smoky beeswax sends it home! Beautifully-balanced and unique, and, though I know Camille had a hand in this, it is very Doyenaise. I would have to be very desperate to ever think of parting with it from my collection.

From the Collection Les Orientaistes I find Myrrhe Ardente to be the most interesting. It's ingredients smell real as it takes me to a place where I feel grounded and peaceful. It surrounds me with the aroma of sweet, woody incense burning from a buddhist temple. Lovely and relaxing.

This makes me feel safe. Honey reminds of childhood and grandma's house. I wear it driving my car and I am completely out of this world. Sweet, cosy and still sexy.

Absolutely sublime, beautiful, rich scent but, nooooo.....! DISCONTINUED as of 2013. The best Annick Goutal perfume gone forever :(

I love wearing this. I do love Myrrhe however. So comforting and interesting. Delicious!

Nice perfume,I feel a lot of cut woods,covered by black pepper, so hot,so fantastic!

MissK and johngreenink wrote some great reviews here, along with a few others that added something provactive and thoughtful. The actual composition/scent pyramid is as follows: Top: Myrrh essence, tonka bean and benzoin converge to create a signature honeyed accord. A heart of myrrh resin, gaiac wood and vetiver increase the intensity, while a dry down of beeswax absolute rounds off the fragrance in a surprising, yet enchanting way. I get a lot of "vanilla" with a touch of beeswax on top showing through - which comes from a blast of sweet benzoin and tonka bean to create the vanillic note. In reference to what others perceive as a "root beer" accord...borrowing from mimifroufrou: "Natural myrrh (Myrrh Essence) has a coldness and freshness about it and here the sensations have been reinforced with mentholated nuances. It also evokes wormwood and the drink derived from it, Absinthe (an anise note is an undertone). It is an interesting even captivating contrasted composition offering an unexpected soft green, slightly misty and medicinal character." Mind you, this stage of development is actually all coming from the actual myrrh essence itself in the top! The Tonka Bean and Benzoin created the honeyed, vanillic accord - but this really develops from the moment it hits your skin. The clean, woody Vetiver in the heart, in conjunction with the Gaiac Wood and beeswax that seems to faintly show throughout the top and heart and grow stronger in the base, add to the depth of this rather mind-bending scent. It is definitely one you must wear several times to get used to...but, the beauty is most definitely there! So, know that this is not for the faint of heart. I am not overloaded with any single note as things are balancing out - but a nice touch of wood at this stage is definitely very noticeable and well-integrated. This, to me, is very quality fragrance and I love AG's work - truly niche and you must be into perfume to appreciate. I have several other bottlings and will revew Amber Fetiche next. Encens is waiting for me - it is only a matter of time. Warming up, I am getting a honeyed concoction that smells so unique - this will not remind you of anything, unless you are a beekeeper perhaps. :-) Not sure this is fragrance or an olfatory science experiment, but it is absolutely enthralling. Not incense-laden - the myrrh resin isn't heavy or even that noticeable at first...alfarom is correct (again). Instead, it is the myrhh essence that opens this unique composition. I like it, though I can't say I love it. I am immediately thinking about layering with something that has more darker notes and less sweet amber, benzoin and honey. Amber Fetiche...? Encens? Comme des Garcons Man 2? What to do? I think, from an artful perspective, it is a line of wet, translucent honey-colored paint dripping off an earth-toned canvas...onto a hardwood floor. I cannot rate this - only say that I admire it, very much so. Update - 90 minutes or so in...the "smoky myrrh" (which is the Myrrh Resin) makes an appearance. Strange, johngreenink and I, somehow ended up getting virtually identical notes out of this fragrance but in exactly opposite chronology! The walnut and cedar (that hardwood floor that just started to show a while ago) is now freshly sanded...this actually has great wood! Tonka Bean is still very prominent along with the benzoin - but secondary notes have emerged gloriously. I am now rethinking layering as this, like all Goutal's creations, require patience. This is now in harmony...rich, deep, yet totally sweet. Very, very, very tasteful - almost a gourmand vibe. My wife likes it - a lot! So much so, she wants to wear it on her olive skin - I agree. This is truly unisex and I cannot imagine how this could not smell almost edible on her! People who don't know perfume, please take note - this is an acquired taste...and those that have taste will acquire it. I will still refrain from quantifying a rating for this as a fraction will not represent the true taste and composition of Annick Goutal's work. Go elsewhere and let mass-marketed fragrance get stars and points. This is olfactory pleasure - any season or time of day...Cheers. ;-) Update (a little extra): Just for fun, I burned some very high-end incense this evening - a blend of Myrrh/Vanilla/Tulsi stick that is incredible. It offered a lot of similar notes and deepened the smokiness and incense (naturally) of the Myrrhe Ardente. I found the deeper notes came out more on my skin as what was in the air (the sweetness does remain with the vanilla). I smelled my shirt just now (about 4-5+ hours since application) - the myrrh, amber, benzoin, beeswax, & vanilla are still there. A recommendation - spray a couple shots on clothes and the top notes of this fragrance stay almost the same for a long time. On the skin, a different evolution happens...which is rather remarkable! It was an interesting twist (with the incense) to add to a memorable day with a unique creation by Annick Goutal. **Update** - A full spray to my forearm today really showed impressively, while I was in a full wearing of Ambre Fetiche. While I about "gave up" on Myrrhe Ardente for myself and let my wife adorn it (simply magical on her!), I wanted to wear it once more. I edited my review above, which explains a lot about the 'root beer' accord some get in this fragrance. I also dabbed (from vial) just two small dabs of Comme des Garcons Man 2 onto the Myrrhe Ardente wearing about 4 hours in...as it lasts a long time! The white incense, smokiness, aldehydes wood and vetiver had a wonderful effect with Ambre Fetiche, but less so here. While it changed the wearing while CdG Man 2 was present and was interesting to take a dozen or so sniffs over time - I felt it tried to make this something it is not. Once the CdG Man 2 faded away in a few hours, it returned back to form. Not a scent that necessarily should be made something it is not...