Cabochard

Cabochard (Eau de Parfum) Cabochard (Eau de Parfum) - Grès 9.5 Stubborn, headstrong, persistent, undisciplined and impulsive 1959 is a year that everybody should remember. The world was polarized between Right and Left, Capitalism and Communism, with massive destruction nuclear tested weapons on both sides... and the Cuban revolution began, the perfect drama stage to convert our planet in a redioactive soup. The world as we know could be totally different if an atomic confrontation would begin that year. Gladly the Kennedys, Jack and Bob, were cleaver and big enough to prevent the 3d and final World War. In our western World another event took place that year. The Barbie doll was born and became the playing companion of millions and millions of girls all over our planet. For out of our planet work Nasa presented its first astronauts, including John H. Glenn Jr, and Alan Shepard Jr, and launched the first rocket into outer space. Television programmes included "Rawhide", "Bonanza" and "The Twilight Zone" while movies gave us "Some Like it Hot", "Ben Hur" and "North by Northwest". The Boeing 707 Jet Airliner comes into service... and Cabochard, one of the most significative perfumes ever created, was launched in Paris by the fashion house of Grés. Cabochard is a funny french word. It may be an adjective or a common name and has several meanings but all of them a bit dubious in terms of a person's character. It may be used for stubborn, headstrong, persistent, undisciplined, impulsive and many other synonyms. Cabochard was certainly something we could call to Madame Grés. When returning from a trip in India, where she discovered a new world of aromas like the water hyacinth, Madame Grès decided to launch a revolutionary perfume in 1959: Cabochard! It was an immediate success, a true olfactory message from the 1950s, along with the visuals of red lips, filter cigarettes and black leather jackets. It was elaborated by the perfumer Bernard Chant (from IFF) and was inspired by the stubborn personality of Madame Grès. It became a milestone as a leather chypre female perfume with world wide recognition. It was classic and innovative, smooth and intense, wild and delicate, feminine and masculine, a true scent of contrasts. The perfume opens with an opposition between two ingredients: the green, dry and androgynous galbanum versus the voluptuous, intoxicating and seductive ylang-ylang. Then the ylang-ylang petals are replaced by other precious flowers: the Bulgarian rose and the jasmine of Grasse, both giving a classic facet to the perfume. At the end of the evolution, the fragrance becomes more complex and deeper thanks to the intense effluvia of moss, vetiver, musk and patchouli exuding mystery and exotic sensuality. Along this trail some other notes are used to stress the bold and audacious evolution. It's the case of asafoetida, a spice with an odor profile between leek and onion (!), building an heavy earthy frame for the top notes. A bottom stage with very strong notes of woods, oakmoss, tobacco and a dominant "cuir de Russie" type of leather, giving a manly touch (or should I say punch) to the heavenly drydown of this perfume. Different people have different experiences with this perfume. Overall it may smell like smoking rooms in posh clubs, expensive leather, peppery notes, warm sandalwood, enchanting aromatic flowers... You name it. Such a clean and dirty, vibrant and sassy, complex perfume and with such a sophistication! Just enough to make me feel like a perfect badass! Needless to say that I consider this Eau de Parfum as totally unisex. How does this jewel cope with math? - Scent opening............9.0 (almost perfect) - Scent Dry Down.......10.0 (perfect) - Longevity....................9.0 (up to 10 hours on my skin, with 2 sprays) - Sillage..........................9.0 (sillage of 6~8 feet; it projects for 2.5 hours with 2 sprays) - Versatility....................9.0 (extremely versatile, although not the best solution for summer days) - Usability......................9.5 (just avoid the beach, the gym or any activities where you may sweat) - Compliments..............8.5 (people will notice you as distinct, elegant, sophisticated and sexy but not cute; above average compliments by both genders) - Uniqueness.................9.5 (quite unique; I only remember two perfumes alike: Bandit from Robert Piguet, launched in 1944 and relaunched in 1999, and Azuree from Estée Lauder, launched in 1969; The two of them are exceptional perfumes. Some people claim the classic Aramis to be similar to Cabochard as well due to the strong note of leather in both of them) - Quality........................10.0 (well above average quality ingredients; magnific smooth blending for such a complex perfume; It does present a correct performance because it could become cloyin, with more sillage and projection) - Presentation ..............9.0 (very elegant and very discreet) - Price...........................10.0 (100 ml EDP flask - €19,00 in ShowroomPrivé) - Average:......................9.32/10.00 (wooow!) between 7 and 8 => above average; between 8 and 9 => recommended; equal or bigger than 9 => don't miss it; My conclusion: Fantastic, but try before you buy it. NO! NO! NO! CORRECTION! Excuse me... if you don't like it, buy it anyway. You will have an inexpensive exquisite gift to offer someone with a very good taste and better than yours. Music: Frank Sinatra - "Strangers In The Night"

Pre-1984 'Cabochard' is surely something I inhaled off les épaules of older women when I was young. It's also something I'm realising I've not smelt in decades. I say this because, having recently acquired most randomly & happily an EDT splash of some considerable age, upon sniffing I was instantly overcome with an extremely nostalgic, familiar scent. What I have in my hand seems, after some difficulty in ascertaining its exact age, a bottle from pre-1990. It's post 1984 repackaging, and yet also lacks a barcode (and green dot)... but the only list of Grès batch codes I managed to come across after two days searching didn't help much as there was nothing older than 1990 listed. Obviously not original formula by a long shot, but neither belonging to the massacred iterations, or so I glean from many a blog, which I'm led to believe began to appear in the years just prior to the turn of the millennium. This is potently beautiful enough to evoke something I do very clearly recall from young childhood whilst also, I would assume for anyone never acquainted with any 'Cabochard' ever, splendidly proposing a picture of the days before casual Friday became casual everyday & twice on Sundays. 'Cabochard', at first, has reminded me of the ladies in my youth who changed into something nicer in the afternoon or evening... just because. No night out. Nothing special. It's cocktail hour and dinner will be served, and there was etiquette and no one thought anything of it and, in retrospect, even the middle-classes inhabited a more refined, more "civilised" existence it seems. 1990 'Cabochard' may be far from the elevated heights of its first incarnation, and if you go by L.T. you'd think anything post-'84 is not worth throwing a farthing at. But I humbly disagree. And in a century increasingly defined by the loud, the crass, and the belligerent (ironically bathed in the pinnacle of insipid) and the glorification of the least common denominator, an older box of 'Cabochard' is a blessed sight indeed! Did I mention I paid all of £13 for it? I'll take that to be a lucky number. Absolutely chuffed I picked this up on a whim. Gosh, but the original must have been something lush! As a lady of legendary, exacting standards, Madame Grès would surely turn in her grave were she to see the state of fashion & perfumery today. But, for what it's worth, and what we've got, we thank her and celebrate the expression of that age of elegance we've lost that she left to us. There's something so classically, self-assuredly, robustly rich & sexy in this that by banal & bizarre 2020 standards it feels nearly baroquely lavish & risqué. And yet, it's simultaneously decadent & restrained... beguiling & proper. It never occurred to me before, and strikes me as revelatory now, that a fragrance I would have associated with matrons 30 years ago (cue Mrs. Robinson) should manifest itself as quite decently erotic and feasibly "masculine" now. Madame Grès famously spoke of long walks on deserted Indian beaches in this - a tantalising image I keep trying to see. But I smell... sophistication. And confidence. Dressed-up eloquent dreams. And romance. The glow of the good life you chose for yourself which, on an evening out with someone special, can never fade... like the heady poise of being in love. Is 'Cabochard' the "headstrong" implacable belief of lovers in love?... a time when we knew our place and the future seemed rewarding & secure. I suppose the most beautiful thing about beauty, like romantic love, is its fragile, ephemeral nature, really, though its essence is beyond time. A reverie. And don't we love perfumes for their "time capsule" capabilities? Here, in 'Cabochard' 1990, the remembrance of beauty is an echoing, velvety shadow preserved for the dream of a renaissance... the return of Romance. ★★★★☆

- a digression - Cabochard - FOR HER: A FEW WORDS FOR SAFELY HIDDEN FEMININE FRAGRANTICIAN I bet that right now here is some young woman - a fragrantician, too - who is reading all the reviews about Cabochard and thinking: “Oh, this one isn't for me, because here is more than few times stated that Cabochard is kinda masculine. Or unisex.... I don't want THAT.” And this comment is for her, as a balance to comments in which Cabochard is pronounced to be unisex, “almost masculine”. Cabochard is a woman's scent. Some men would bend to it and wear it, of course. But, as I'm concerned, it is not other way around. When I sense the man wearing Cabochard, I feel like it bends the man on a feminine side, and at the same time that doesn't make the scent less feminine. Also, as a scent originally made for woman, Cabochard really doesn't need to be labeled as made for certain kind of woman's personality. I don't think that Cabochard was made for strong, tough woman, or that its vibe attributes masculinity, or some “vamp” or “bad-girl” attribute. Many traditionally feminine women wore Cabochard in the past. Not just “vamps” or “masculine” feminists, but also nice, quiet housewife with children. Tender nurses. Pleasant, mildly tempered teachers. Ultrafeminine secretaries. My mom, who is warm, quiet, tender, very classicly feminine and everything but tough, stubborn or authoritative woman. It is as misleading to believe that women for whom the Cabochard was originally made and who wore it in the past were by default strong and independent, or stubborn, as it is misleading to believe that among today's candy-scented population there are not some tough, strong willed, independent or in any other way a bit “cabochard-spirited” / “vamp”, “masculine” women. Let's not apply unnecessary stereotypes over the perfume. Let's rise above it and go beyond that kind of stereotypes, or fashion, or overly protective correctness. My mother would have certainly never wear Cabochard if it was in her time repeatedly labeled as “unisex” or “almost masculine”. It would have been a pity, and I wouldn't have the childhood memory of this beautiful scent on a commonly feminine, tender, polite and traditional woman. I'm sure that woman with my mom's way of thinking still live among us and read the reviews here. And just because they rightfully aspire not to be differently feminine from many of the first ordinary users of Cabochard (the housewives or ultra feminine secretaries or nurses, or my mom), the “masculinity” label could divert them from trying beautiful and different kind of warmth from woods, flowers, tobacco and leather. My personal experience with Cabochard is that it draws compliments from persons (both genders) whom I find open minded and willing to ignore any kind of “labels” as equally as overly protective correctness, and who concentrate on individual quality of the fragrance on my woman's body. And that is: On a general level - Cabochard is a women's scent because it was originally made for traditionally feminine women, not for men. And that is a fact. On a personal level - Cabochard is womanly because on me it smells feminine. And that is fact, too. So, here's the message to the young fragnatician safely hidden in genderly non-questionble sweets, but who is wondering how does she as a woman fits to the scent which is today described as “gender bender”: There's no fashion, dominant opinion or political correctness which should divert any woman from experiencing the scent made for woman on her woman's body. Cabochard is a scent for woman. That is proven so many times that it made it woman's classic. And if all of these sounds politicly incorrect - well, I'm also sometimes overly protective and I'm certainly willing to speak up what I think. You can freely downvote it.

I currently own one bottle of EdT, recent, and an older EdP, to my joy :) They're quite different beasts, clearly from the same family, but different. Happily, I love them both, for different occasions. First, the commonalities. Both are totally unisex, timeless, delicious. Both have notes of leather (different interpretations, though) and vetiver and oakmoss. And both are comforting to me, in a way that makes me feel strong and capable, but warm and cuddled. Now the differences. The EdT is moderate in strength, elegant, just a little leathery and soapy and vaguely powdery and floral with a hint of citrus and maybe a promise of something dry and herbal, in a completely gender-neutral way. Discreet strength and warmth. It's, for me, an everyday scent with a twist, something I feel is not out of place anywhere or at any time, but simultaneously a scent not of this time. Dries to something powdery, neutral and vaguely dry herbal/woody, probably the vetiver bur reminding me of pencil shavings and dry grass. With leather in the background still. The older EdP, oh my God... It's strong, dark, shamelessly leathery and, even though it is not on the list of notes, to me it smells also like an animalic soap. This may sound like a contradiction, but the thing is that the fragrance morphs in my sensation of it. Maybe the formulation is complex and my brain cannot apprehend all the notes at once, maybe it's some technical prodigy, but I feel the fragrance change before my nose. It's soapy, then it's almost fecal in its animalic notes, then it's leathery, then it's dry and almost almost floral, but not quite because the leather comes back again... Wouldn't wear it to work or to a serious function, cause I would get distracted, but it's a treat I enjoy. As it dries, wood enters the rotation as well. Amazing and dizzying, in a good way. I love them both.

Cabochard is hated by many because it doesn't "deliver" what they usually look for in a perfume. It's brutal and serious, it's not playful nor delicate, it's straight forward and that can be annoying to some. It's very cold, present but distant and somehow arrogant. A bit strident, it seems tactless at first glance, yet it remains reserved throughout the approximately 10 hours of longevity. In terms of construction, it's dusty, it doesn't bring that creamy leather, but instead you get the harsh, dry version. It also has something that reminds me of the Duru soaps of the past. Overall, I smell moss, tobacco, aldehydes, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, spices and sage. It's not necessarily a bad boy, but if the resemblance to Bandit is justified (I haven't sampled it), both names assigned really go hand in hand (cabochard = stubborn). I tried Aramis Aramis instead and can confirm they are very much similar. Cabochard reminds me of an O de Lancôme deprived of the effervescence of the citrus notes, somewhat lacking in freshness. A pile of dusty old leather-bound books, over which someone has overturned a pot of aromatic plants, soil and leaves everywhere. A gust of sand in the middle of summer, which, however, does not announce any hint of a storm. It has personality, but without being cheeky. I see it worn to complete an outfit made up of a pair of Dr. Martens boots, boyfriend jeans and a classic shirt to which a vintage brooch has been attached, maybe a cameo. Definitely unisex, but not for men who prefer sweet-gourmand aromas like Black XS. I wear it usually in a combo layering with Ma Dame by JPG which amplifies its otherwise almost imperceptible rose note and gives it a sweet-sour boost that softens its aridity and takes it out of the darkness by giving it that spark it lacks. Ideal for rainy weather. In drydown it's really adorable. 🎀

Cabochard is a sophisticated, edgy delight. It is Katherine Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich; old-Hollywood sexy and chic. I LOVE it. I do not find it as close to Bandit as some say: Bandit is downright raunchy, Cabochard is merely suggestive. Sexual vs. Sensual, respectively. In practical terms, I believe the florals and aldehydes, and the lack of that super-funky civet note, set Cabochard apart and make it much "prettier" than Bandit. But not too pretty. Too pretty is boring. Here's another interesting thing: I've sampled both the vintage EDP and the more modern EDT, and I must say, it's not a terrible reformulation. Not totally soulless. And it's cheap! I'd buy it, even as an echo of the real thing. But if you can get your hands on the vintage EDP - WOW. Hot damn. It is a POWERHOUSE. A heavy-hitter. A superhero. A freaking god. Love it, worship it, make it your life. Vintage EDP: Strong, gorgeous leather, intense aldehydes, smoke and herbs, deep, pungent florals: I get the ylang most of all. Woods, mosses, a nutty smell, and yes, the strange and elusive asafoetida chases through there as well. Rich. Complex. Incredible longevity. (This the vintage EdP with the grey cloth bow). EdT: Nice leather scent, more moss, less aldehydes, lasting, gentle florals, woody/resin base is there, but not so deep. Very nice to wear, only pales in comparison to the original. Decent longevity. Lovely for every day, and a wonderful way to knock out all those boring fruity perfumes the kids are wearing these days. Go Gres. Go dark. Live the lush life. Update: Turns out the EdT I sampled is not the newest version, so I'm a little afraid of the moderns now. On the flip side, one of my EdPs is a *newer* vintage than I thought - the one with the white plastic bow - so perhaps there's still some hope for the reformulations.

The renowned perfumer Bernard Chant stood out for his deep knowledge and expert handling of aldehydes, achieving a perfect balance in emblematic fragrances such as Cabochard. Chant, with his innate skill, masterfully created combinations of olfactory notes, culminating in the creation of a Leather-chypre of unprecedented tenacity and persistence, thus reflecting the visionary ingenuity of Madame Grès. CABOCHARD GRÈS -(Formula 80s) Cabochard begins with a symphony of harmonious, fresh and green herbal accords, highlighting galbanum and sage, nuanced with a touch of spice. This opening is wrapped in a veil of refined, slightly soapy aldehydes, which are intertwined with gently citrus and acidic notes. The fragrance quickly unfolds a floral heart, enriched with jasmine, Bulgarian rose, Ylang Ylang and iris absolute. These components, far from dominating with intensity, are presented in perfect harmony, offering a very light and refined touch. At the same time, it is enhanced by the robustness of the geranium, which provides a manly counterpoint, giving rise to an aura of sensuality and captivating femininity. As the perfume evolves, the leather accord composed with IBQ and a selection of complementary ingredients is revealed. With progression, oak moss intensifies harmonized with woods such as earthy patchouli, which intermingle with a very green vetiver. These ingredients extend into amber, musky and leathery accords, with castoreum and subtle nuances of smoked tobacco, which emanate the sublime beauty of a bygone era, giving depth, intensity, character and exceptional refinement to the composition. Cabochard perfectly embodies the fusion between classic and contemporary, offering a refined fragrance of indisputable elegance.

FRENCH CHIC with longest longevity I've ever experienced and it gets better and better. A gem! I agree with Parfum Amour that in the begining it reminds of strong male aftershave. It nearly made me wonder whether I made a mistake with this perfume. Strong gagging pungent smells due to Pelargonium and Asafoetida evokes feeling of era of 1930-ties. It takes nearly an hour to get rid of those notes. What happens afterwards is worth it as it develops into sweetly dry oakmoss with distant floral echo. Finally, settling into more spicy carnation like, green sage and sweet dry tobacco creating a FEEL OF SWEETISH CRISP SMOKINESS with a distant haze of flowers. It keeps developing through the whole day with dry oak moss as the main carrier of the perfume. No leather smell on me. The drydown notes reminds me very distantly of Estee Lauder White Linen without soapy smell. When wearing this perfume I could imagine being myself as Coco Channel wearing black trousers, a very crisp white shirt, no pearls, a black male hat telling to the world it's my time to contemplate and find my centre. No distractions during work. I'm myself. And it works! Another time, I feel like I'm lying on a warm stone covered with moss after a very hot sunny day. Sunnily dry and smoky crisp. The final silage sir close to the skin so it won't bother anyone. The longevity is the longest I've ever experienced lasting over two days on my wrist even after a shower. I'm glad to have it in my collection. I can also imagine it on a man thanks to crispy smokiness of the moss. Its subtle resinous sweetness humming through crispy dry moss creates a desirable tension.

Recently found a decant of this among my many, many decants from friends. Having never truly looked into this in depth, I put it on. I remembered, before sniffing, that several people I know had compared this to both Arpege and Chanel's No. 5. I must assume that they were referring only to strength and mild androgyny in scent, because it's nothing like the two. I'm not one to enjoy comparing, but if I were to do so ... I'd say it's a tiny bit like a mossier version of Antaeus with a touch more sparkly aldehydes. I think the first thing I noticed was oakmoss. Oakmoss so strong I was reminded of Charlie Blue, which at first had me running for the tap. Once this settled down, like in Charlie Blue, the scent was rather beautiful. Not what I'd call feminine by today's standards but in the 60s and 70s, this is what I'd imagine to be the ultimate feminist scent. The smell of changing culture and an introduction to the idea that women didn't have to be all pretty and pink, that they could have a dark/brooding side that wore leather jackets and rode motorcycles off into the sunset. There's a faint freshness to it, but I think that may again just be the oakmoss. It's a totally different style of chypre to what I'm used to smelling and I welcome it with loving arms... occasionally. Don't have the courage to wear this sort of thing EVERY day. Now I must track down the answer to whether or not this is a vintage decant... I suspect it's not, but I honestly don't mind. If the modern version smells this beautiful, I can live with that and not shed a tear for having not tried the vintage.

I am a chypre nut. For me, they are the essence of elegance and character. Cabochard is one of those forgotten, and because of the humble price, overlooked and underappreciated treasures. Since grand majority of the customers is addicted to sugar, masterpieces like this have long lost their place in shops which makes them difficult to find and try. So I encountered this beauty only few years ago in edt. I loved it, but it disappeared from my skin before even developing properly. It was a truly and repeatedly frustrating experience. Kind perfumoholic had mercy on my soul and send me a sample of edp. And I like it even better. The longevity is acceptable but it might blend with my skin in the way that I don't notice it anymore. I have to ask people around me. Sillage is intimate. I have the impression that most of the people who choose to wear Cabochard are confident and in no need to impose a thing to others. The opening is bright, delicately spicy and green. Despite the heavy presence of leather, Cabochard is not really dirty or animalic. It's unexpectedly cosmetic and clean. Like a touch of indulgence in the middle of all that severity. The work on balance between floral, aromatic and woody is impressive. The abundance of oak moss and woods give it great posture. It's assertive, incredibly chic and probably way too demanding for most of the people. This kind of complexity, finesse and bewitching beauty is rare. These days only niche houses dare to make juices that are this bold and uncompromising. There is a very good reason why Cabochard survived this long.

Dark, classy, not for the timid and shy. The perfect autumnal scent. I first heard about Cabochard from a dear friend who told me it was the most delicious and woody perfume ever. She said it was so dark that a man could easily wear it. She actually told me her husband wore Aramis and sometimes they couldn’t tell the difference. I ordered both; the edt and edp. By far the best bargain of my life! While Cabochard shares lots of notes with Aramis which by the way is my dad’s signature, it is more green, less aggressive and way more elegant. I can see a man in the forest wearing Aramis but going to the opera with Cabochard. Once the green and Aldehydic-herbal opening notes calm down, you are surrounded by flowers. The rose, ylang-ylang and others are not fresh, they are almost dry but still retain part of their fragrance. Then you get that sexy tobacco, a very old tobacco, sandalwood, moss, lots of it and leather, a very realistic one. Teenagers, millennials and those who bathe themselves in froutichoulies and dessert-like perfumes please stay away from it! Cabochard is a magnificent fragrance not to be wasted on a daily basis despite it’s price. This is a creation that deserves to be worn on special occasions and really comes to life during those cold autumnal evenings. A true elegant and classy treasure at an incredible price for a man or a woman who can wear it with the dignity it deserves.

.........Amended "Review" from Cabochard 2019.......... I'm woefully ignorant compared to many on here who write with knowledge, eloquence and passion. All of you have entertained and educated me so much over the last few months without ever even knowing it - thank you ! But...if ever I was going to write something, anything about any fragrance it has to be this one... I cannot imagine a time when I could ever NOT want ( need ?) to own Cabochard. I have the modern version; the vintage - and everything in between ! My oldest is from the year I was born ( 1966 if you must know ) , my newest just a few weeks ago - I have colognes, parfum, EDP & EDT's . and I adore them all ! I cannot describe notes in great detail like many on here - until I joined Fragrantica barely a year ago, I had never heard of Bernard Chant, never mind that I had nearly all his creations in my "Top 10" ! I will say: The older ones are softer, rounder, more floral & better blended - I think ?! I get dry,earthy, herbal, leather, & smoke notes in both - the only smoke I indulge in these days ! Maybe the newer is harsher at least at first but still dries down beautifully. I was a teen when I first smelt this - it scared the bejeezus out of me - but I'm glad I persevered Choose old, choose new, choose the one YOU like ! Just try it, just once - you may fall to earth and be glad you did !

I have a full bottle of the EDP now and gave another chance to the EDT as well. These two formulations are rather different on my skin, indeed. EDP is a chypre, definetely unisex, a little bit bitter and has a nice vintage feeling to it. It can smell slightly masculine on me (specially when sprayed on cool skin) and can behave rather feminine when applied on warmer and oilier skin. It can be a signature and can be worn daytime if someone has the spirit for it, it's different, outstanding but if used with a light hand it's not necesserily overpowering, because it stays relatively close to the skin. But initially, this is a dark perfume that is perfect for night. EDT is totally different, however, they share many features. But EDT lacks characteristics of a chypre, it's more like a dusty, dry floral on me, therefore much easier to wear and more modern. It's still different from todays trends and outstanding on it's own, but I don't feel that I need courage to wear it. More dusty than smoky, soft, earthy-woodsy floral. Beautiful. It reminds me a little bit on Ferre Eau de Parfum, albeit notes listed are totally differen and the fragrance must be very diffeert too, but the overall impression has something in common with it.

I put this on today for International Woman's Day, but I had already chosen it for my March tray. When I blind bought this scent a few years ago, I wasn't sure. It came off as bitter and a bit stale, and I understand that's how many find it still. Mine was a new bottle at the time, and I've never tried the vintage. It is undeniably a leather scent on me, and even straight from the bottle. It's also a very green scent, and that makes it feel really great for spring. I've layered this with all kinds of scents, and that is, in fact, generally the way I use this. It adds such a gorgeous depth to whatever you put over it, florals, gourmands, spicy scents, musks . . . all of them are improved by this scent! To my nose, the note pyramid votes are spot on. I get mostly leather and oakmoss, with a bit of tobacco, geranium, and vetiver in there. The other notes really never come through for me, but their presence, real or perceived, probably is what helps it work so well for layering. It's dry and bordering on bitter. Definitely not sweet. Definitely not fruity or floral in any noticeable way. I highly recommend this for anyone who loves leather or classic scents. Or for someone who loves to deepen up scents with layering.

You need to be laying flowers at Chant’s grave like a 9/11 widow. His creations have given dopamine addicts so much beauty. O Cabochard, Cabochard, wherefore art thou Cabochard? We know more about Edward de Vere, 17th Earl of Oxford, as the author of Shakepere’s works, than we do about Chant. Maybe one day the Twitterstorians and the textbook cabal will add him to the regime approved cannon. Cabochard is a bold survivor. She flew first class on Pan Am, but takes the train now. She isn’t in a hurry. Cattle car leg room, camel toe yoga pants, body cavity searches, bioweapon ear swabbing, and tiny plastic cups just isn’t her scene. She would drive, but the thought of putting miles on her Cadillac makes her reach for a cigarette. You won't find her laboring away fiddling with plastic bags at the self-checkout. She remembers when customer service was more important than maxing quarterly earnings. Microplastics in the meat, but with oakmoss restrictions. What is a lady to do? Her pearls have been restrung for the next Colonial Dames meeting. Chapter president wasn’t in the cards. She settled for secretary when Aromatics Elixir came along. Men still pay her compliments and her twink grandson says she has good vibes.

After my recent complaint that I can't find any value in the present version of Chanel No 19, a very generous friend sent me a sample of Cabochard Gres (the version purchased a few years ago, not the latest one). It's really beautiful - in fact, this is what I wished Chanel No 19 would smell like! I don't know about older versions of Cabochard, but the one that I'm enjoying right now is very herbal, bitter, dry and slightly leathery: moreover, as it dries down it acquires a soft floral-powdery component. It's a cross between an old school herbal fragrance such as Lancome Magie Noire or Paloma Picasso, and a modern soft herbal-floral such as Gucci Bloom Acqua di Fiori. By the way I've never tried RP Bandit, so I can't make comparisons to that one. I really enjoy all aspects of Cabochard Gres; its smell reminds me of a herbal liqueur such as Jägermeister or Becherovka. It's an old fashioned fragrance, coming from an era when it was perfectly okay to express the new, emancipated femininity with dry herbal scents. I have to say that Cabochard is not a powerhouse - it projects softly and lasts a few hours; but I don't expect such an affordable everyday scent to last until the next Sunday...

This is for the EDP. A beautiful aldehydic leather. The notes are very similar to Aramis obviously, but with a sweeter opening. I get the fruity notes on application along with a hint of dry tarragon. I'm a bloke btw, so it may seem different on my skin, or not. But either way, I deem this to be, as all 'fumes will soon be, completely unisex. Truth be told that's why I got it (along with Tabu, Aromatics elixir etc.). Reviews here and elsewhere from experienced perfume lovers tell of how well these reacts to male chemistry and that's what I'm finding. For what it's worth, I'm in the camp that believes fragrances have no gender they're just marketed toward one or the other, and often bought so 'I' can 'be that'. So it's down to money (for the manucaturers) and identity (for the end-user). Anyhow, Cabochard smells great on me. Lasts well too. There's quite a floral mid to it, but the spicy leather/tobacco vibe is prominent throughout, as is the sparkly/soapy aldehyde buzz, even into the mossy cream drydown. A lovely perfume for us all. Edit: Just noticed 'Cabochard Parfum Gres for women and men' listed, same note triangle, different bottle. ??

Well, this is very strange - not the perfume, I mean, but how different my perception of it is, compared to all the reviews I have read about it before!! I have been told that the leather note would be so strong, almost masculine, and that the fragrance would be kind of harsh. Nothing could be more wrong, according to me!! Yes, it is green. But not harshly so. And the leather I feel in the beginning, but not so much at all. I love leather, and I would like to find a fragrance with very prominent leather! But even though this fragrance isn’t a strong leather fragrance to me, I love it for completely other reasons. To me, it is just very fresh and SOFT, green and kind of cool, in a nice way. Very special, but in a much more inoffensive way than I have been led to believe. Very feminine indeed. Would like to try the edp as well, to see how different it is. And the 2019 version too. Anyway, my conclusion is: This is a keeper for me! Glad I took the plunge to blind buy it - it was really not a high price for such a good quality. Well worth it! 😊

As worn by Gloria Swanson. This is a very good, discreet , refined, elegant & classic fragrance. Created in 1959 by Bernard Chant for Gres. If you like galbanum, vetiver, jasmine, oakmoss, musk, patchouli & leather, you'll probably like Cabochard. It settles after an hour or so & mellows somewhat. Like many scents, Cabochard will suit some people more than others depending on skin chemistry, always bear this in mind when using reviews to choose a fragrance for yourself. Try a sample and assess it over several hours, days and weeks, and in different temperatures i.e warm days compared to cool/cold days. This is a pretty powerful scent, one squirt is plenty. Much more sophisticated smelling than a lot of other, more expensive, scents. I purchased a 100ml eau de toilette online for £12.99 (December 2022). I love wearing Cabochard. In fact I think it smells even better on a man. What I also like about Cabochard is that it's available in 30ml, 50ml as well as the usual 100ml bottles. I wish they'd make all fragrances in smaller sizes.

I have worn this wonder of a fragrance for years and until today I've not taken notice of there actually being coconut in it. Oh well - it is unexpected, as this perfume continues to be. Such a whip-smart, unbelievably cool fragrance, it is timeless, beyond dreams or ideas; it just is itself, taking no prisoners; making no excuses. A fragrance I wish I had known about before I found it because it is so aspirational in its composition you cannot help but think 'oh, to be this assured, this composed, this complete'. There is leather and tobacco, sure, but also so many additional facets as to make it simultaneously present and intangible. It makes you want to wear tweed suits, smart coiffure, sunglasses and gloves, smoking Gitanes (even though I've never smoked), or draping yourself on a chaise-longue wearing nothing but something very silky, drinking a potent concoction and being the very best company. It is grown up, reminiscent, capable and true. It is everything everyone should allow themselves to be. Hell, yes.

I have long-since adored the current formulation of Cabochard, but have always remained curious of a more vintage composition. And so I set out to find an old EDT bottle, and my god is it breathtaking. There are few classics which embody the idea of leather as Cabochard does, it is simply a master stroke of Bernard Chant’s genius. The scent is based upon a central leathery core of isobutyl quinoline as all great leather scents are, but it’s balanced beautifully by its violet-like ionones interplaying with rose and jasmine. It’s very dry in the base; patchouli, tobacco, Vetiver and spices mingle with the leather creating a bold and headstrong aroma, as the name Cabochard suggests. This truly is one of the great classics of French perfumery, a lesson to anyone bold enough to tackle the leather-chypre subfamily. Whilst the vintage is stunning, and well worth experiencing, I would still opt for the current formulation to wear day to day because of the much improved longevity.

I blind bought the EDP- the one in the tall rectangular bottle with the frosted glass bow and black and gold cap. It's bloody lovely!! Upon first spray it is dry and herbal, then it settles and I can smell vetiver and spicy rose (or maybe geranium?) and tobacco in the background. I was worried it was going to smell like an ash tray but it definitely doesn't; the tobacco smell is clean/unburnt rather than cigarette-ish. I can't smell leather but I'm not familiar with how this smells in perfumery. I wouldn't have made the connection to Aramis of my own accord but there are some similarities. To me it reminds me of a hybrid between no19, aromatics elixir, Giorgio red and a dash of white linen... And maybe she kissed aramis in the car on the way over and some of the smell got on her fabulous black and gold velvet dress. Flies in the face of contemporary perfume, giving it a big two fingered salute on the way past.

What a revelation! I purchased Cabochard EDP not knowing what to expect and with a degree of trepidation. I loathe Cabotine, and leather/suede aren't particularly friendly with my chemistry. But this is beautiful! First, let me say that the bottle it came in is gorgeous - substantial, heavy, and it feels like crystal. The black ribbon and cap add elegance. I mention this because for the price, you are getting an object that you would associate with a much more expensive, newly released perfume. As for the juice itself, I expected something more bitter and green, but this is so soft and clean, with a touch of sweetness. I really like this and may even grow to love it over time. All I can say was that for a perfume I purchased mostly because I thought it should be part of every perfumista's collection, I am honestly surprised that I adore it as much as I do! _________ It's official. I love it.

My mother used to wear Cabochard in her youth, she told me, but I am not from that time. I kept the name in mind, and her description of a bottle with a glass bow (maybe she had the parfum, who knows?). I finally had the chance to test a decanted sample (not sure from when). This is beautiful. A classic, warm, leathery, round perfume. I can't distinguish the notes per se, as this is one of those compositions where they meld together. The leather is not adstringent and tarry as in Cuir de Russie, this one is warm and animalic, woody, floral, all together. It manages to go vaguely soapy (still woody, still leathery, still floral) and very, very creamy. This would be delightful in a crisp winter morning. It's one of those great classics, it smell "perfume-y", but different. I would really like to have it. --- (Now to find a way to test the parfum)..

I am always so flabbergasted with happiness when I enjoy a fragrance like this. I always expect, looking up the perfume on Fragrantica, seeing the notes, seeing the picture of the bottle... that I'm gonna wanna wash it off shortly. It's going to be vintage, it's going to be dry, the aldehydes are going to annoy me.... I expect that. But then it doesn't happen. Instead, I am immediately in love. It's always so surprising and such a pleasant revelation. Yes, it is dry and vintage and the aldehydes are there playing around with these notes... But there is something unique about this that is fabulous and delicious. This is heavily relying on the leather and tobacco, but instead of being run of the mill, it's elevated by it's other notes (surprising sweetness and bold florals). I really love it and really need a full bottle of it. 8/10

Cabochard was a gateway of sorts into my exploration of classic fragrances, and I now own the modern EDP, vintage EDP, and vintage parfum. I marveled at its confidence and strong bone structure, the way it activates my synesthesia as a glinting of light contrasted with dark shadows. It feels like gold—gold light, gold leaves, gold sagebrush, golden waves of seriousness and beauty. Cabochard is dry and fierce, grassy and leathery, loose tobacco leaves and tightly wound vetiver, seasoned with hing and making my senses ring. It's an old modern and a modern "old," a Chant via Cellier pastiche a la Bandit of styrallyl acetate, isobutyl quinoline, ionones, and grit. Brilliant in its own right, a floral streak in film moire, fooling you into being in lockstep with its time period, but revealing its timelessness through its spell.

This is for the EDP, newly bought off Fragrancenet (so, probably not vintage). Well, this is a lot like Bandit. Which is good, because I love Bandit, and Cabochard is ridiculously inexpensive. Cabochard smells a little more like cigarette smoke—in a good way! Reminds me of a nice hotel that allows smoking; that mix of clean swanky furnishings with a hint of cigarettes. Plenty of leather spiked with green and floral, just like Bandit. So I tested them side by side: at the top, Bandit is crisper and cleaner and chillier, and Cabochard does have more cigarette tobacco and is warmer. As it settles into the heart, Bandit evinces more carnation-like spice, and Cabochard more soapy florals. Then on drydown they start smelling a bit more similar, settling to oakmossy leather. Both great, and on me both quite easy wearing.

Bought this when I discovered Bernard Chant made Cabochard 7 years before Aramis, which I enjoy. Sure enough, this bears the same skeletal structure, but I find Cabochard a bit less rough, adding dense florals (slightly peachy aldehydic floral?) without being cloying. It seems to share that wonderful radiant leather base with Aramis. I imagine it almost buzzing with warmth when smelled close on skin. Cabochard is the mother, Aramis is the son; he learned all he knows from her, but she knows a bit more. Didn't like it at first, but now I love this. I can't stop smelling on myself throughout the drydown. If I smell like a grandma, great! Introduce me to this amazing lady so she can educate me about her other perfumes as well. Lemme guess, next I'll be wearing Aromatics Elixir... 9/10

A Green Leather Chypre. Cabochard transcends gender. I've got Cabochard on one arm and Aramis on the other. Besides Cabochard having a few more florals in the mid notes these are essentially the same fragrance. And after a lifetime of wearing Aramis, I gotta say that I'm enjoying the Cabochard a lot more than the Aramis. The Aramis is giving me a sour, flat feel today. The rose and jasmine of Cabochard brighten this up and is delivering a much more interesting perfume. Bernard Chant was always tuning a Lauder fragrance for men and then for women, or the other way around. Don't get hung up on who the perfume is "for". I don't see myself abandoning my old buddy Aramis, but I can see myself pulling the Cabochard out a whole lot more often.

Cabochard eau de parfum is a ritual of holy smoke; the smoldering stub of an incense spire as it molders to bitter ash. As a woman, she is an olio of enigmatic complexity: cloaked in inky leather, caressed by oakmoss tendrils, veiled in a cloud of tobacco smoke. You may know of her, but she cannot be truly known; you may catch her for a moment, but she cannot be grasped. To wear Cabochard is to be replete with impenitent confidence, and to revel in museful mystery. Her singular fragrant aura invites and invokes me to embody the bitter and the bold, if only for the night. In her presence, every other scent in my assortment makes a salaam of supplication. Hail Queen Cabochard, they seem to whisper, and may she have mercy upon our souls.

Someone said this reminds her of Van Cleef & Arpels First. Of that I do NOT AT ALL agree. Because that one I hate... and this I love!! To me, it is not as challenging as some say. Even if it can probably not be worn and loved by just anyone. Since it is so difficult to find some fragrances without blindbuying, I guess sometimes you will just have to take a chance. And this one is crazy cheap, so you don't lose much if you fail. That is not the case with all fragrances... some I will have to sell. But this beautiful green leather tobacco harsh but still soft sweet creamy very feminine on the edge of masculine sunny spring fragrance is a keeper to me! So glad I allowed myself to make this aquaintance!

There is nothing sweet about Cabochard -- which is why I love it! Unlike so many of the other reviewer, I enjoyed the opening notes: a rush of citrus, sage, and aldehyde, with a little tarragon and spice in the mix. Then the oakmoss and vetiver take over and dominate the scent. They are eventually joined by the leather, tobacco, and sandalwood, completing what I consider the "essence" of the fragrance. I get very little floral -- orris root, and towards the end some geranium -- and none of the sweeter notes (amber, patchouli, coconut). Emphatically unisex, in spite of being "for women". Sillage for the EDT is moderate, depending on how much you apply. Longevity is very good -- about 12 hours.

This review is for a later EDT, not sure of age, the bottle is octagonal with a frosted bow, and came in a gift set with a barcode. Definitely a watered down version of Cabochard, but still nice. Sweeter, more powdery, less leather than the 60's vintage parfum I own. This is not to say it's bad; still a nice perfume with a leather presence, but she's not sassy and definitely not chain-smoking through her day like my old parfum. I like my 2019 EDP reformulation better (smells MUCH closer to the vintage version), but this will do just fine as a work-appropriate spray, or use in the summer. I don't recommend this version unless you are prepared for something light and flowery with no gonads.

I’ve only been into perfume for the last year. I’ve been following a lot of the sub Reddit’s and loving all the information that I’m gaining, I always notice there are questions on what are your top 10 fragrances that you could not live without. And I would list in my head would have 10 ish. There’s a difference between perfumes that you love and perfumes that you cannot live without and I can say today that I could not live without Cabochard in my collection. Prior to this revelation, I would’ve told you that my must haves would be Grand Soir. Nope not on my list I finally understand what it means to have a few perfumes that you would be buried with

There is not enough happening in this perfume for me. I’ve tried for days to find something to love in it. I’m a Chypre girl through and through, so on paper this looked perfect. It’s medicinal to me and oddly flat. It’s a good thing, I guess, that there is little longevity - could be a bad batch - but I’m not willing to give it another chance. Edit: I couldn’t help myself. I had to try again. Hot weather is here and it works magic on Cabochard - all of the sweetness comes to the front. It’s luscious, rich, complex - It’s just beautiful! And the longevity is MUCH better - a good 6+ hours. So glad I kept it!

What a lovely scent this is. I was lucky enough to receive this as a gift. The most prominent notes to me are the leather and tobacco. While this might make it sound masculine, it really feels more like a mature and sophisticated feminine fragrance. It lasted around 10 or 12 hours on my skin and it still lingers on my clothes. I do find it quite addictive and caught myself sniffing my clothes for any traces left. Works wonderful for winter and for nights. Two or three sprays are good for me if going out or wearing it casually. Simply stunning and just a refreshing change from the girlish cutie perfumes.

I recently purchased the newest version of this classic scent, and I’m not sure how it compares with the original. But the fragrance I have is gorgeous. On my skin, it smells of fresh air, pine needles, expensive dusting powder, and the tiniest trail of smoke. It reminds me of when my grandfather would burn the fields every autumn, to prepare the land for planting in the spring. And the musty dresser drawers where my grandmother kept her fancy guest soaps. Maybe it’s a whiff of cigarette smoke, too...my dad smoked when I was little. So it’s a lovely, calming, nostalgic fragrance and I simply adore it.

Roudnitska rates perfumes on how pleasant they are, and how accomplished the work is independently of how pleasant it is. This (at least the vintage I own) is what I would pick as the definition of both happening at the same time. It is a glorious thing where all the notes mentioned above are blended at the right level to create a powerful, integrated, warm feeling that, amongst other things, explains how great oakmoss can be. It must be tried if you are interested in the history of perfume. Aramis feels like the rough, draft version of Cabochard, and is much cheaper, so if you like the style...

A good friend of mine got me this fragrance for my birthday, she's never tried it and we opened it together, I sprayed it on myself and she told me it smells like a sexy grandma, it was funny but it didn't disenchant me, anyways , it smells classy ( and classic) like an expensive leather purse, but I have this image of Mrs Maisel from the tv serie wearing a perfectly fit black dress with a cute bow, she left home wearing diorissimo and bright red lipstick, she goes into a club and she soaks up all the cigar smells without smelling like an ashtray, she is still perfect and well put .

Vintage EDP: A lot has been said on this one, so I'll keep my review short: Starts as a bitter aldehydic floral leather. Then it morphs into a majestic mossy tobacco note. This one stands at the crossroad of Knize Ten, Jacomo Silences, Chanel No.19, Aramis Havana and Polo Green. What a beauty! I'm a man, and this one is a masteriece, still very wearable imo. Can't believe I got it for just $20 (the EDT even retails for less than $15, but I'd suggest spending the extra bucks for a better performance - which is just acceptable in the EDP) Highly recommended for colder days, 30+

EDP: This has become my favourite these days. I really wanted to get Bottega Veneta ... but it's so overpriced. So this is the next best in the same leathery line at a fraction of the price. It is absolutely beautiful. I don't smell any cigar. If I ignore the notes listed, I would say it smells a bit leathery and soupy. A clean 'non flowery, sugary, sweet' scent. As I am becoming more of a perfume connoisseur, I'm leaning more towards the chypre's. I just bought Halston ... beautiful .. another inexpensive chypre. These are truly hidden gems.

I know this has leather, oakmoss, tobacco and patchouli in it...but it has an amazingly caramelly sensation to it. I have no idea why. It has the same olfactory shape in my head - like a bell-curve on a graph _/\_ but smoother than when drawn with punctuation! Each sniff gives a similar shape: a little sweet, a deep leather, slightly smoky on the sides, very smooth throughout. I would completely understand if not a single soul experiences a similar thing though! (Also from a vintage bottle and I know the top-notes are whacked out.)

Think Betty Page in your dad's snooker room. She's wearing a leather corset and wielding a whip, Lola Montez style. Your dad's boss cringes on the floor in his tighty-whites. You dad is silently smoking a cigar in the corner. You walk in, then back out, accidentally knocking of an ashtray... I have the latest incarnation. I adore it. Dirty leather, dirty ash tray, all over a ballsy chypre topped with this magnificent bitter green smell. This reminds me of a woman who beats people for a living.

This is a unique blend jumping from masculine to feminine and it balances both in an intricate way that makes me keep sniffing it wanting more. It has that smell of wet grass as the sun hits it so it is wet and warm and the underlying note is leather together with that. I love the freshness because it isn't directly fresh at all. There is that fog quality to it - Bandit is similar but this is no way a dupe I guess they can be cousins. I want a full bottle of this. Based on a vintage EDT mini.

I'm certain this would be Cruella de Vil's signature scent. Sexy AF, powerful, headstrong, crack the whip dominatrix. It is a bold unisex fragrance with its tobacco, leather, tarragon but balances towards the feminine with hints of rose, patchouli, musk. Nothing cloying or sweet here, lending itself towards animalistic. Great sillage and longevity, a wonderful fall winter fragrance, would be too overpowering in summer. It is a cool/cold weather fragrance that feels empowering when worn.

As a fragrance enthusiast and addict, this stuff is the cure It becomes really very difficult to justify spending hundreds or even thousands of dollars on a perfume when you can own and wear an absolute masterpiece like Cabochard Gres edp for an outlay of around $25 I wont discuss the smell, its been talked about to death and i honestly cant add anything, this is simply a perfect fragrance and an absolute world apart (ahead) of most modern perfumery in terms of complexity and beauty

Made for a woman, but strong enough for a man...I get a little of that old lady/Chanel No.5 vibe when I first spray this (which I like anyway), but what I find most prominent is a gorgeous green note that my nose finds irresistible. I also get the florals, the aldehydes, the leather, and tobacco. This dries down to a complex, green, unisex musk. This definitely has a old-school feel, but is so different from most fragrances right now, it has a fresh, unique quality. Love this stuff.

Just a note of interest for those of you who keep saying stuff about the "creamy coconut" in Cabochard. There is no coconut in this fragrance. For reasons unknown, Fragrantica keeps listing "coconut" instead of Castoreum in nearly every single scent that contains this note. I don't know why they do this, but I think it's confusing some folks who keep expecting a sweet, slightly tropical flavor instead of the deeply resonant and leathery beaver gland effluvium.

Your favorite well-loved leather jacket imbued with the lingering scent of the aldehydic chypre perfume you sprayed when wearing it. Bright aldehydes taper off into a spicy geranium that settles into oakmoss-forward leather. Fresh yet earthy, lightly sweet yet noticeably bitter, this is perfect all year round except summer since it'd be much too stifling in the heat. Projects very loudly and leaves a trail. Very affordable and worth trying.

Just received a full bottle of the vintage edt from the early 70's and it's really magical. I've also got the modern edt (with the black fabric bow) and while you can tell they're both Cabochard, the vintage edt is deeper, slightly less aldyhidic, and a bit funkier. I think i'll layer the two together for the best effect. This is definitely a chypre. I don't get fougere vibes (as the commenter below suggested) at all.