Bouquet de Paris

I just had a chance to visit Guerlain at Champs Elysees and test this fragrance with an intention to buy it. Well... I didn't, in the end. It is a very beautiful, smooth, classy composition with carnation playing the main role, to my nose. Marigold gives it some sophisticated freshness wrapped in the sweetness of rose, hint of cinnamon and ambery notes.I was able to wear it for a day, after which I decided not to buy it. Although it is truly beautiful, it lacks that something, for me at least, that would make it stand out. In comparison, its predecessor Ne M'oubliez Pas had that special something, the opulence and first of all incredible presence - like the wearer is the most prominent person in the room kind of thing, but in a very elegant way. Bouquet de Paris does not give me that thrill, which in combination with the steep price tag was a no for me.

A delicate carnation, more aromatic than spicy, layed on a bed of Guerlinade. I'm not a fan of carnation/tagetes, but this one is so soft and elegant, making it surprisingly attractive. Cinamon and Mandarine do help during the opening, bevor carnation invades the scene, lasting for 6-7 hours, surounded by a touch of tea, amber, and sandalwood. Vanilla is quite présent, too, not cited but part of the underlying Guerlinade. A great composition in Parfum concentration with all the elegance one may expect from a luxury edition of this house.

This is a well-done, classically "inspired" scent that feels like a retro-contempo composition. Citrus, spice, and florals are noticeable from the start, including the clove-meets-bubblegum scent of carnation. There is a dark smoky element that resembles black tea, and a pleasant, powdery-amber drydown. It is nice to smell a new "exclusive" Guerlain than isn't just a repackaging of an older scent into a new line. This fits in with the brand's aesthetic and respects the past without pouring globs of contemporary cotton candy all over it. It's not a smell-alike to Terracotta Voile d'Ete, but shares an affinity with it--carnation/ylang/powder. That scent has a summer/salty/playful night out feel to it. This feels more autumn/winter/classy evening in.

Oeilette Pourpre. That’s what I smell- prominent carnation, cardamom and smoke with a slight amber and tea-benzoin twist. A bit green, a bit floral a bit sour.