Candide Effluve

Gorgeous, light floral with a distinctly carnal aspect. The opening has some bright cologne-like freshness of citrus juxtaposed with herbs and smoke. Most notably, there's green and bitter thyme and perhaps some slightly camphoraceous rosemary. That coexists with a distinctly smoky birch tar note that actually remains throughout the scent. This opening transitions into a bright floral heart that highlights, in particular, ylang ylang, rose, and floralizers that are generally used to recreate things such as muguet (i.e. hydroxycitronellal). There's also the intriguing, somewhat floral-mushroom scent of terpineol, which is used in many lilac recreations. This is set on a bed of vanillic balsams--benzoin is notable--as well as the standard heliotropin, coumarin, vanillin, ionone blends found in so many of Jacques Guerlain's work. I can imagine there is vetiver and patchouli offering earthy groundedness to the base but, to my nose, none of them stand out in particular and seem to contribute to the overall sensation of "amber" in the base. The startling leather note persists from head to base. Many classic Guerlains are based on unique juxtapositions and Candide Effluve's is absolutely its light, feminine floralcy countered by dark, animalic leather. The heady, fleshy ylang ylang definitely helps bridge those diverging aspects of the perfume. The evocative name ("true redolence?" "Honest secretions?" I'm not familiar enough with French to understand all of the nuances) does seem to nod in the direction that this is meant to conjure images of intimate, soaped up but dirty skin in a carnal way. Beautiful, though I can see why its offbeat herbal-animal side has resulted in this not being one of the "evergreens" of their stable.

Fragrance Review For Candide Effluve Guerlain Notes Bergamot lemon, ylang-ylang, lilac, jasmine, orris root, angelica, patchouli, vetiver, benzoin, tonka bean, heliotrope, amber vanilla Wow what is this? I smelled this at the Osmotheque in Versailles about a year ago. It's a rare Guerlain that you won't find at any Guerlain fragrance store today but how I wish it would sell right now! This is absolutely beautiful. It's a concoction of various notes that smell like flowers and incense, vanilla and patchouli leaf. This is hard to even categorize. It's not a floral aldehyde, not a chypre, not an Oriental, it seems to be a lot of things at once. The lemon, orange, and ylang reached my nose first. Smelled like an orange grove, like orange blossoms or oranges on trees with a floral air. There might be neroli in this as well. It's citrusy and fresh at the first whiff. Then the scent deepens and develops into amber, patchouli, vetiver and vanilla. At times it reminded me of Habit Rouge and Shalimar. It's like a chemical variation on both scents. This frag shares same notes as Shalimar: citrus, jasmine, amber. The patchouli is also quite noticeable so you have to be experienced with the aroma of patchouli in perfume. The flowers are not key players and are in fact quite soft powdery and in the background. I detected a jasmine heliotrope angelica and lilac. The jasmine and lilac are very good. There's also a powdery orris and heliotrope. Beautifully floral but subdued. The bigger players are the benzoin, patchouli, vanilla and amber. I have a thing for amber so this is a treat. I wish I could have taken a sample with me. This is such a dream. Did they really make this perfume? Why are there so many great long lost perfumes I wish I could buy right now and can't!

I'm going to see if I can acquire this. Sounds wonderful, and I love the House of Guerlain. This is my first time seeing this also Sherihan. Edit: Just found out it was sold at B. Goodman but limited. So we are out :(