L'Heure Bleue Eau de Toilette

Comparison of new batches of L’Heure Bleue Extrait, EdP, and EdT. This enthusiastic vintage hunter curiously doesn’t own a vintage L’Heure Bleue, an oversight I hope to correct in the near future with a bit of good luck (and quite a bit of cash). This legend is coveted for good reason. Fortunately, I haven’t found a critical need to chase after one since Guerlain has kept LHB in solid shape. Gratitude and commendations to them and Thierry Wasser for that. There are some differences to the vintages, of course, and there should be, but LHB’s DNA and identity are firmly intact in new formulations. The biggest differences between the new and the old is the precision of the floral heart, which is clearer and sharper in new formulations, and the vintages are more generous with animal musks lending them to a sweeter and more civety feel in the dry downs. Sticking strictly to the new formulations, here are the key differences between them. The first, no surprise, is the speed with which they progress. The EdT being the fastest, it reaches its dry down in a couple of hours - which is quite a bit faster by at least a couple of hours compared to vintage EdTs. It’s cheap, so don’t worry about it; lather yourself in it and you’ll get an on-par experience for today’s EdTs. The EdP is the second fastest, reaching its dry down in about four hours. This is on par with vintage EdPs and what you should expect from today’s EdPs. Finally, the extrait is the slowest, reaching its dry down in about 8 hours. This is definitely quicker than vintages, which took about ten, but it is on par with today’s extraits. Notably though, the top notes of the extrait dispense very quickly, within an hour; this is unusually quick for an extrait of any period. While we’re on the subject of top notes, there lies the most perceptible difference between the three new formats. The EdT is mostly bitter and sour bergamot, with a fleck of anise. The EdP gives the same bitter and sour bergamot but better rounded and cooled off by tarragon, sage, touches of coriander, and the citrusy floral of orange blossom. The extrait is the most bracing of the three. The sour and bitter bergamot is virtually the same but the anise note is turned way up. This makes the extrait stand out quite a bit from the other two as darker, spicier, and woodier. This experience aligns, I believe, with vintage versions I have tried and are recalling to memory, but that is likely irrelevant since the age of vintage versions will mean most of those top notes have died off to some degree. In the heart they are virtually the same, and smell like LHB has done for a very long time. The quietly beating heart of LHB is what makes this perfume so special. Red and fleshy roses; creamy and spicy carnations; powdery and dry orris and violets; benzoin of the base and the carnation harmonizing to a quiet note of cinnamon like a thread running through the perfume. The EdT’s heart is more monodimensional than the extrait’s or the EdP’s, opting for more of the creamy and spicy carnations and a white floral amalgam in comparison to the extrait’s and EdP’s less abstract and more dynamic presentations. Very good nonetheless. The extrait pushes a bit more jasmine to the front than the other two. Every time I smell LHB’s heart I get vivid images of a bouquet in a very old and dusty home that has seen more than its fair share woeful tales. The heart is eerily quiet and dark, but yet gentle and affectionately soft at the same time. Near the end of the day, the EdT is long gone from my skin, having moved to a skin scent of earthy tonka, sweet and woody benzoin, and powdery orris many hours ago. Simple and very pleasant. The EdP just tucked in about a couple hours ago, having gone in quite a different direction. Creamy sandalwood, peppery cedar, sweet benzoin, and a good dose of green vetiver. The extrait is finally at its skin scent, with its base comfortably between the two, most notably with an absence of green vetiver, opting for more warm woods and orris. Though the extrait and the EdP are a bit different in their dry downs, they have enough in common to be called the same, and for me this dry down is one of the best in perfume history. It’s gorgeous. So there you have it, new LHB in a nutshell, quick and dirty. Which one you prefer is entirely up to your tastes and need for practicality. All three are wearable any time and any place, even the extrait - though bigger, louder, and richer, it is never too much for any particular setting. However, practically, it’s likely cost prohibitive for the vast majority of us. Your choice, and there’s no better or worse choice. It’s L’Heure Bleue after all, one of the best of all time.

Guerlain is my favourite house of all, and L'Heure Bleue is one of my favourite Guerlains. Vintage is ideal, and I have a treasured tiny parfum in a harvest box. However, I was at the Guerlain counter a little while ago, and I was very impressed with how faithful this is to the original formula. I bought a bottle for everyday use, and it hits the spot and garners compliments. I adore iris, and love how it is used here. HB opens with the familiar anise-led spices alongside tart citrus. Green-tinged neroli adds body to the citrus accord while paving the way to the powdery florals at the heart of this scent. The violet-iris accord blooms on my skin after a little while, melding beautifully with the warm, sweet spices, true to the DNA of the original. Clove-like carnation becomes the dominant spicy note. I love the combination of iris and carnation, seen recently in Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait. Powdery rose brings it to lipstick territory. Dry and powdery, the amber base emerges, sweetened nicely with dry vanilla. Tonka bean adds body and enhances the spice. It is less rich and resinous than in the vintage, but remains faithful, the Guerlinade accord intact. It fades to a powdery skin scent with a hint of spice remaining until final fade. Sillage and longevity are moderate. It is feminine-leaning traditionally, but perhaps unisex by modern standards. It is transeasonal, more cold weather appropriate. A beautiful reconstruction of a classic, HB is a delight, and I love that I can enjoy it whenever rather than having to conserve a vintage bottle. Hats off to Thierry Wasser. Aptly named, I love to apply this in the evening. Classical elegance by way of spiced iris. 4.5/5.

I’ve already written a review of this, but I feel the need to write another one. I don’t own a bottle (yet), but this is one of those perfumes I HAVE TO spray on my wrist every time I visit a department store. I can’t leave unless I’ve done that. In my last review, I said that I don’t find this soapy, but actually, I do, just not in an aldehydic and sparkly way like Chanel No. 5. More like smelling a dry block of bar soap. This is, in fact, first and foremost a soapy, vanillic, and powdery makeup-y scent that's a bit spicy. L’Heure Bleue smells like makeup to me. Vintage compact powders and old expired lipstick, with oil droplets on its surface. This reminds me a lot of JPG Classique, except that this is heavier, melancholic, velvety, dark blue/purple, and less sweet. The powder here is quite dusty, and the oily/waxy quality makes this really heavy. I hate saying this, but this smells a little bit like stale air in a glamorous grandmother's bedroom, where a window hasn’t been opened in a long time. I still love this scent, but I guess I wish this were just SLIGHTLY airier. That would make this a bit easier to wear. I’ve thought about getting Esprit d’Oscar for that reason; maybe it'd be a fresher version of this. This perfume always makes me think of Isabella Rossellini’s character in David Lynch’s Blue Velvet – the scene where she sings in the bar. That song, too, Blue Velvet, fits this so well – both the original Bobby Vinton’s version, and Lana Del Rey's cover.

I bought it blindly because I couldn't find a tester anywhere. And when I smelled it for the first time, it was as if I had known the scent forever, it didn't surprise me but instead moved me to tears. It's weird like that. It is a melancholic perfume. It was instant recognition (I've owned and loved Insolence for a very long time) and obsession. So much so that I immediately bought EDP (also Les Légendaires). It's hard to describe. Violets and powder. Beautiful, gentle, as already said, old but also so timeless. And it will remain so. So much respect and nostalgia for that long-gone era when they made things to last forever. Like the good old classics. Like a (royal) vampire (very good description also by Essence-tially Dacob on YT). It is suspended in time, so very comforting, and suitable for all days/nights of the year. The EDT is fresher and somewhat lighter than the EDP. The EDP is more powdery and clear, the liquid is more yellow. The EDT might actually be better suited for clothes while the EDP is for the skin. Although there is nothing wrong with EDT when applied to the skin. I understand that they may smell different due to body chemistry and may not be suitable for everyone. For me its worth having them both. Both last a long time. They stay on the skin easily throughout the day. They can stay on the clothes for a couple of days, of course the intensity weakens.

do yourself a huge favor and disregard all the 'old lady' reviews. this perfume is a classy, vintage vibe but it isn't dated or aged at all. no mothballs whatsoever. it's a clean, sweet, warm, powdery scent. it reminds me a lot of makeup. it's more glammed up rather than nursing home. it smells insanely feminine and girly to me. it's like a lana del rey song as a perfume. i think it's suitable for year-round use. this is my signature scent now. it's well blended, and the vanilla is stronger than i thought it would be. it's somewhat confectionary but i wouldn't call it gourmand at all. i think this is wearable for younger women as well. i'm in my very early 20s and i've never been told i smell like someone's grandma. despite the scent originating in the early 1900s i get a strong 1960s babydoll aesthetic vibe from this scent. i wear this one to sleep and out during the day. i wear it on nights out clubbing or to work, and it always makes me feel dolled up. for me, i think this suits the more recent old money style than any other perfume. it's classy, it's glamorous, it's not overpowering so long as you spray a reasonable amount. longevity is pretty good for an edt but ymmv. i'd say its pretty low sillage, i think you have to be close to smell it but that's a good thing for such a powder-heavy scent in my opinion, it keeps it from being cloying.

L’Heure Bleue is very vintage, but not in an aldehydic way. It’s extremely smooth-smelling and so well blended that I can’t pick out any specific notes that stand out. The florals, especially, are so seamlessly blended that this doesn’t even smell floral to me. I would describe this scent as makeup-y, old-timey, slightly spicy, and just a tad sweet. This is also borderline dusty-smelling. I love powdery scents, but when smelling this, I envision an antique lampshade with a thin film of dust on it. It’s not too bad, though. Also, like Perles de Lalique, this smells simultaneously warm and cold to me, which I love. This is very romantic in my opinion. The kind of perfume you could imagine someone spritzing on love letters back in the day. This scent also makes me think of a grandmother’s dusty walk-in wardrobe, where you stumble upon an old jewelry box filled with her old makeup. Dust and the drafty closet air mix with the smell of the vintage compact powders and other cosmetics. Maybe there are also a few dried vanilla pods in the box that add a spiciness and warmth. I really like this perfume, but my mom and sister absolutely despise it. According to them, this smells like old rancid bar soap. I disagree. Vintage scents tend to smell soapy, but this doesn’t at all, in my opinion.

I’m a man of a certain age but relatively new to the world of fragrances. (I’m wondering if losing my ability to smell anything for a month from COVID a year ago made me want to explore that sense more deeply when it returned.) The lovely essay by Elena Prokofeva on this website and an eloquent video review by Bernardo Marinho (“Another Fragrance Reviewer”) made me eager to try L’Heure Bleue. (I’ve decided to ignore traditional gender ideas when it comes to fragrances; life is short and we should all wear what we like.) It’s a rich, intense and complex experience, especially when you’re coming from more contemporary scents (although Guerlain’s Héritage introduced me to the neighborhood) -- a little overwhelming at first, but after one wear I suddenly fell in love with the twilight vanilla-blue cloud it enveloped me in. (I plan to go on more journeys in Guerlaindia; next stop: Mitsouko!) And today, although I’m neither British nor a monarchist, I’m wearing L'Heure Bleue in honor of Elizabeth II, since she loved it, too.

I now have both the EDP and EDT. I genuinely and pleasantly surprised at how different they are. The EDP has always been my go-to moody AF fragrance. Wearing her is like stepping into the Van Gogh painting “Starry Night”. She’s made for wine and cigarettes on a rainy day while tearing into a new bittersweet novel. She’s that feeling of homesickness for a place you’ve never been. She’s that gothy angst you felt as a miserably in love teenager waiting for the phone to ring. Get ready to have your heart broken while thinking the pain is beautiful and romantic. The EDT is more like after you’ve survived that emotional breakdown. You’re ready for the sun to come back out. You’re never going to quite get over that experience because it will always be a part of you. But it’s only made you appreciate what life could be. In other words.....the EDT is completely and utterly French.

I must admit it took me a few months to appreciate and eventually fall in love with this fragrance. It was pungent and sour at first, and I immediately regretted buying it. So, I forgot about it but randomly tried it on today to find that it blossomed beautifully! Jacques Guerlain knew exactly what he was doing when he created L’heure Bleue. I guess that’s why I love the house so much, I feel something with these perfumes. And this feels like when you have the blues. It’s melancholic and moody. No rain outside— just a cool spring breeze and you remember that better days are ahead. But the scent of this invokes a strange sense of longing for something that’s just out of reach. It’s a magic potion if you ask me. I simply adore it.

Enchanting and utterly unique. L’Heure Bleue on my skin is pure delicious powdery incense. On a review of the EDP someone negatively compared it to the smell of an Indian shop. I get the same vibe, but it’s gorgeous to me - I’ve always loved the rich and comforting scent of shops like that. It took me a while to warm up to this, I needed a second outing to fully appreciate it. It’s the perfect nighttime scent and would be perfect for bed. Even so, I’ll definitely be wearing it during the day too. It’s totally unlike anything I own. I can’t stop sniffing my arm! The longevity is brilliant too. I’m definitely gonna have to persuade someone to get this for me as my Christmas present.

This is such a sneaky perfume. The first few times I used this, I liked it but it felt like it definitely had to be a specific mood type of fragrance. But then... It is such a trip to take as this perfume develops. Every time I’ve worn it, it is a different trip through which notes stand out. Some days it’s a complete iris bomb, some days it’s woody with a lovely benzoin, I smell a sad powdery rose instead of carnation some days. And tonight, it’s just indescribable fantastic as it’s raining. I got a lovely larger sample from a Guerlain store, and it’s definitely helped me experience and love this more with every wear.

One of the greatest to ever do it? I blind-bought it after I read it was Jean Rhys’s signature scent, and I was further interested in it as a perfume designed to evoke Parisian dusk. It’s delicate, especially opening with those light spices and all those powdery florals, but it has depth and rich texture to it as it dries down, just exquisite. Tender, melancholy blue, romantic daydreams, disappointments and hopes for the possible. Rumination bottled. A brilliant Iris scent.

Man, this stuff is absolutely one of my faves. I love powdery floral fragrances that seem to change and morph over the time spent wearing them. L'Heure Bleue does that morphing thing so beautifully. This is genius fragrance making. This one isn't so unisex as Mitsouko or Jicky, or even Shalimar; and I guess I'm not supposed to wear it, because I'm a man. But hey... Women can't have all the fun! 5/5 Total Masterpiece fragrance.

I am on my second bottle of this absolutely amazing fragrance...and I still cannot explain how this smells, but I will try my best. It definitely has a cosmetic powder smell..but also smells like a wooden drawer filled with different kinds of incense. I never receive compliments when I wear this..maybe people think I smell absolutely horrible..but who cares. I cannot stop wearing this!

Absolutely beautiful, it is like what a soft cloud could smell like. Violet and iris, so so delicate. The bad news are that this is not my vibe at the moment, so I have not used it in a while, but I must admit that it is so good. Us vintage french perfumery lovers shall love this, even it being the newer version.

Absolutely majestic. Like my grandmother's lipstick and makeup. Powdery beauty with a lot of iris and violet. Insolence is hidden here also. Very historic scent that majority of contemporary consumers wouldn't give appreciation that it deserves. Insolence, Mitsouko and Shalimar are here. Very interesting..

This is very dreamy. Supremely romantic. This is perhaps the best thing I have ever smelled. This is what I wanted Lolita Lempicka to smell like. This is like Claude Debussy's music in a bottle. It is sublime.

This to me is the most loving, and comforting hug. The kindest smile. The softest skin. Platonic love, as it is described in Plato's Symposium, in a bottle. It's absolutely enchanting!

Absolutely steeped in sorrow. Like slowly drifting down into a deep blue body of water, light gradually fading away. Sinking into nothingness. A beauty beyond description.

They ruined one of the best perfumes ever created. Update: Apparently I smelled an awry tester. It's still a fantastic perfume, not too different than it was before.

This must be how heaven on earth smells like, difficult to describe in words, divine, soft, ethereal, out of this world, eternal absolute love. I am obsessed 💛💙💛.

A gorgeous eau de toilette, that still has that great performance of old school EDTs. I don't agree that it is melancholic, I would maybe say evocative of a pleasant, distant memory, which for me is uplifting. I get more iris than violet, which was a bit disappointing for this violet lover, but I am happy to have come across such a warm take on iris, which usually leans cooler. I am shocked that there is no patchouli listed in the composition, because that is probably the strongest note I sense. Unapologetically vintage, it is not for everyone but the right people will love it. The EDP has always been a bit strong for me to be able to wear, and this is by no means faint but it allows me to wear it occasionally.

This EDT is sooo similar to the EDP yet it starts off cool while EDP starts warm. EDT is also sweeter and smells purplish whereas EDP is spicier and it doesn't evoke a color. These subtle differences are on fabric. On skin the EDT and EDP are the same after 15 minutes. If Guerlain were to offer only one I'd suggest the EDT. By the way, the $10 Gloria Vanderbilt classic is a similar fragrance. It just goes on a bit rough but after 10 minutes, voila.

Love this stuff. I have worn it for a month and the carrot seeds has turned in to a woody juniper note. All Guerlains require time and many wearings to fully understand. Sadly all generic skincare products copied L'herure bleue back in the days and kept it. The top note sure is hand cream...even though it's the other way around, hand cream smells like L'heure Bleue!

Musky makeup and vanilla. Nice to have more classics in the collection, even if it is stripped down. I find this inoffensive and feminine leaning unisex but could still be pulled off easily by the right guy.

L'Heure Bleue intends to invoke the twilight when the night is “yet to find its star” as Jacques Guerlain described it. There is a great heritage and romanticism to this brand, however Guerlain is not my favourite house. Although it is somewhat the purpose, all the fragrances I've sampled from this line are unarguably old-fashioned. L'Heure Bleue is no exception. This is the perfume Queen Elizabeth II reportedly wore, and it is how you might expect an ageing imperial to smell. It is a little stuffy. It starts off with a 'just got out the bath' sheen and dries down to a rosy baby powder. It wears much more nicely on skin than on paper but the staying power is less than incredible. Ironically, this is more of a 'purple' fragrance than 'blue'. Overall, I prefer Vol De Nuit, which shares some of L'Heure Bleue's accords but remains fresher throughout its wear.

Was wearing it today for work. I would say I could smell it effortlessly for over 4 hours, after 9 hours still smell it while sniffing my wrist directly, very good for a EDT I think The start was pretty spicy, I thought I was about to sneeze when it got into my nose after every spray. I could smell the spice for over 30 mins, and it was so similar to mint for me, I thought I missed mint note from the description. Pleasant scent, a bit old fashioned but not in a bad way. I would enjoy wearing it much more, if it wasn't reminding me of medicine or something other not wearible. As much as I loved it dried down, the first hours were giving me weird associations

L'Heure Bleue validates the incredible history and longevity of Guerlain's perfumes. This fragrance, so melodious and delicate, is truly timeless, made during a time when attention spans were longer and beauty was more important than dopamine hits. There's a reason this fragrance is still loved 115 years after its release. How many modern compositions could even hope for a fraction of such longevity? I've railed against other fragrances for their decline in quality over the years, but I'm happy to say that I love all of my Guerlains from every era equally. The house deserves hearty praise for bravely standing up for its art. I truly mean that. To the fragrance itself, the violet, not candied here, pairs elegantly with a dry and powdery iris, against a backdrop of gently textured carnation spice. It is indeed melancholic, but not in that depressive way. Rather, it is artistic, emotional, and deeply human. I loved this fragrance when I first tried it in my early 20s, but couldn't figure out how to pull it off. Now, over years of building a personal museum of perfume, I've become consumed with the history of fragrance and appreciate the classics as time capsules of my favorite art form. The greats were great for a reason, and this fragrance is 'A Great'. I love wearing it and find it matches outfits I never would have paired with it before. So many faucets revel themselves over time. So, if you have a love of classical perfumes, this is a must-try. If approached with curiosity and open-mindedness, you might be surprised at the effect it has on you. This fragrance can add a twist to your mood in many unexpected ways.

After several years of delay, I have finally added a bottle L'Heure Bleue to my collection. I already owned Mitsouko (1919) and Apres l'Ondee (1906) and so while it has obviously been reformulated numerous times to comply with regulations, L'Heure Bleue is now the second oldest fragrance (1912) in my collection. It's a shame that they seem to have discontinued the EPD (at least in North America) but I compared the new EDT with an sample of the EDP from prior to the 2021 reformulation and honestly, they are the same in my opinion. The EDT just doesn't have the same projection or longevity. Which I'm fine with, I'll just respray. There is something about this fragrance that is elegantly sexy in an absolutely delicious way. This reminds me of the feeling you have when you are so absolutely attracted to someone that you literally hunger to kiss them. That's what wearing this makes me feel like. Elegant, classic, sophisticated, and very, very desirable and desired. One of the things I found most interesting about this fragrance is that while it's a classical floral amber to be sure, because of the combination of anise, coriander, cloves, heliotrope, and carnation, I find it less powdery (certainly less so than my beloved powdery fragrances, Apres l'Ondee and Insolence EDP) and more gourmand. I am very particular about gourmand fragrances and this is divine. I love this perfume, the romance and the history of it. An absolutely must have for any collector.

I got this and l’instant magic as a blind buy on my quest for finding a soft powdery scent to wear at home. To say this smells like the old times is an understatement. The weird part is, I couldn’t recognize what memory it was invoking. I had to ask everyone in the family to tell me if this is something we know. It feels like nostalgia but to a memory that doesn’t exist. L’heure bleu opens with a strong spicy powdery smell (anise?) and settles into soft but long lasting 90s floral powder. It feels like you marinated yourself with a Yardley Talcum powder twice. You can almost taste this on your tongue. L’instant magic checked the box of grown up baby powder for me so this bottle is going to be hard to go through since I would never wear it out and it’s a bit too much for home. Does it smell like a cosy hug while wearing freshly laundered pjs? Yes. But it also smells antiquated. I prefer LV’s Spell on You for a more modern take on laundry, carpet freshener, talc powder smell. Longevity is high. The powder lingers and projects. Even when I can’t smell it, others can with every movement. EDIT I made a mistake. I have the EDP and this is the EDT. Mine is an anise bomb which explains the difference.

My favourite is the EDP, and I have an extrait coming in the mail. My EDT arrived and I do love it, but it’s not the EDP. I get the comments about the “almond croissant” notes. I happen to like it. Compared to the EDP, it’s not as strong or as long-lasting, but I was expecting, from the comments, for the longevity to be terrible. It’s not. For an EDT, it still retains L’Heure Bleue DNA. I will happily buy more of all iterations of this. The opening has an iris petal lipstick note; less powdery than Chanel’s Misia or Replica’s discontinued Lipstick On. But it’s also not Après l’Ondée either. As a Guerlain lover, I’m going to be the one to say that I’m so glad this isn’t like Après l’Ondée. ALO is too sweet, too watercolour-y, too violet candy, too Monet’s Giverny (I love Giverny), but L’Heure Bleue is in a class of its own. It’s probably my favourite Guerlain EVER.

i can't say how many times i scoured the internet trying to figure out if this new line of classic perfumes from guerlain included reformulations... after finally taking the leap and ordering a bottle, i can say it smells identical to the l'heure bleue i know, and there's no need to worry. maybe the longevity is a bit worse than the vintage stuff, but if you're a scent purist, i think there's very little to be disappointed in here. a really easy and great way to smell a legendary fragrance without scouring grey market websites for soured vintages. long live guerlain!

This is just a (not so) new bottle, for all the Guerlains. Reformulation is not yet confirmed and notes listed on Fragrantica are not a page from the Holy Bible. Shalimar is so iconic that he will be the last with an own shapped bottle, or not. LVMH needs to spare money...

I do not understand: is it a reformulation? The same in different bottle? No anise? On the official site there is only this one and the Edp

I love the juxtaposition of this fragrance. Cold and cool in colour eventually enveloping in a warm and powdery embrace.

How is the lasting power for the ones who know the 2023 version? If you wear it or have tested it ;)

oh my god. insane. amazing. spectacular. wonderful. magnificent. marvellous.