Mitsouko Eau de Parfum

I can't believe there's no Oakmoss in this! Is Guerlain not telling us everything? Then again why would such a reputable House keep such a prominent ingredient from us? Could Vetiver in conjunction with the other ingredients really replace an Oakmoss powerhouse note in such an iconic, over a century-approved Chypre fragrance??? I am at my wits end here. WHY isn't the Oakmoss included here in the note pyramid??? What is going on!??? Oh, here's the answer: Guerlain, for its Les Légendaires collection (which includes the 2021 Mitsouko EDP), often provides a simplified and modernized note list. The Official Guerlain Note List for Mitsouko Eau de Parfum: Note Type Guerlain's Official Description Top: Citrus, Bergamot Heart: Peach, Jasmine, Rose Centifolia (May Rose) Base: Spices, Undergrowth Notes, Vetiver, Patchouli Notice that the official Guerlain description avoids listing "Oakmoss" but uses the term "Undergrowth Notes" and highlights Patchouli to describe the base of the Chypre accord. The classic Chypre family is defined by the accord of Bergamot, Labdanum, and Oakmoss (Evernia prunastri). Due to EU regulations that restrict the use of natural Oakmoss because it can be an allergen, modern formulations cannot contain it above trace levels. To maintain the signature Chypre smell, Guerlain uses approved alternatives, most notably purified/treated Oakmoss extract, Tree Moss (Evernia furfuracea extract), or synthetic molecules (like Veramoss). In fact, the current Guerlain ingredients list for Mitsouko EDP often explicitly contains: Evernia Furfuracea (Treemoss) Extract This chemical is present to re-create the deep, mossy scent of oakmoss. So, while Fragrantica might list the simplified structure as: Top: Peach, Spices Middle: Rose, Jasmine Base: Patchouli, Vetiver They are omitting "Oakmoss" likely because the natural, highly restricted version is no longer the primary component, but the mossy, earthy character (the core of the Chypre style) is still created by a blend of Tree Moss, Patchouli, and Vetiver. In summary, the scent structure must contain a mossy note to be called a Chypre, but the listed note is often changed to Treemoss, Patchouli, or "Undergrowth Notes" to reflect the modern ingredient composition and adherence to regulations. You're welcome! 😂✌

@Amen! Hallelujah! Oakmoss again... because obviously, there's still so much to be said about it. Truly, what's left to discuss? It’s like the perfume world has said everything under the sun, yet here we are, still circling the same point. All this buildup, and for what? And as for the whole "feminine" fragrance debate, let’s be real, whenever I see men getting so bent out of shape over gender labels, it makes me wonder... True alphas don’t storm perfume forums to whine about a fragrance being labeled feminine and how it makes them feel insecure. They certainly don’t feel the need to reassure everyone that they’re not "woke liberals" by railing against pronouns. Real alpha energy? That’s the confidence to just be—no explanations needed. Take my boyfriend, he's the kind of guy with a voice so deep it could melt steel, naturally muscular without even trying, and people can’t get enough of him. He never feels the urge to rant about scent labels. Instead, he’ll wear a fragrance marketed to women because, surprise surprise, it softens his presence, making the women around him feel more at ease. Funny how that works.

Just a quick comment before anyone starts talking about how "watery," "weak," or "bland" the current reformulation of Mitsouko EDP is—I TOTALLY disagree with that take. I think this is one of the most powerful perfumes I own, with incredible quality in raw materials, complexity, and construction—if I spray it in the morning (4-5 sprays max), I can still feel traces on my skin late at night, even after two showers a day. And one more thing: although Guerlain (and consequently Fragrantica) simplified the notes featured in the olfactory pyramid, the perfume hasn't undergone a drastic reformulation. Mitsouko still has its iconic oakmoss, just as L'Heure Bleue and Aprés L'Ondée still have their old notes. In short: consider the olfactory pyramid of the Mitsouko EDP with the yellow sticker, as it's more complete and true. I'll come back here later to do a proper review of this masterpiece.

of course i had to own a piece of history with this blind buy the opening is very strong, harsh, it tickled my nose for almost an hour. no nausea thankfully, just a warm spicy scent, somewhat waxy and onctuous/oily (think church myrrh). once ot settled, it turned somewhat powdery, elegant, mature, it smells like my grandma s house from back when i was a kid (doubt she ever owned this as she lived under communism most of her life), warm and a little sweet. it s quite long lasting and it develops for hours on end. im much more sattisfied with this legendary, as far as persistence on my skin goes, i seem to eat up l initial and samsara... to wrap it up, it smells like sweet fond memories and nostalgia, but only after an hour - or more

Having worn Mitsouko for decades I was devastated to discover the formula of my last bottle (about 12 years ago) was so changed that it had nothing to do with the Mitsouko I remembered. It met an ignominious end as room spray. (Really!) I haven't bought the original since. It was that disappointing. Even the cheap dupes I resorted to smelled better. Recently I decided to give it one more try. Oh thank goodness! Mitsouko has returned to its mossy and peachy beauty and although I know that it can never be quite the same, it is once again recognisable as the icon it once was. Thank you Guerlain. Thank you. (Now please bring back Chamade in EDP and Parfum!)