Nahéma Extract

Comparison of an 80s Extrait and the current EdP Jean-Paul Guerlain, one of the greatest perfumers we’ve ever had, was quoted as saying he considered Nahema to be his greatest creation. Naturally for me, I cannot find where I read that, but I distinctly recall it. And, naturally for one of the greatest creations by one of history’s greatest perfumers, people disliked it when it was released and for quite some time after. How aggressively mediocre the tastes of mass consumers are, and likely will always be. Like the most criminally under appreciated art Nahema eventually got the recognition it deserved, enjoying a legendary and coveted status amongst perfume lovers of all stripes. The story is not a happily ever after though, when in 2016 Guerlain announced that they were no longer going to be making the Nahema Extrait. It had become virtually impossible to make to Guerlain's standards due to materials regulations and at a price people would consider paying. I remember that announcement. Vividly. It was an extremely sad moment. However, I was and continue to be grateful to Guerlain for at least acknowledging they can no longer make it rather than hollowing-it-out into something that doesn’t come anywhere close to the Nahema I know and love. Does that make sense to do from a business standpoint, given Nahema’s legendary status? No, probably not. But it is an honorable thing to do; let something persevere as a beautiful memory, rather than distort it into unrecognizability to suit a new reality. Part of me wonders, though, if Guerlain might be being a bit too hard on themselves. Perhaps they are being too much of sticklers to preservation. I say this because the new-ish batch of EdP I own is really damn good. It’s not the extrait - there are differences, which we’ll get into in a second - but it is unmistakably Nahema. That gorgeous and dramatic personality is alive and well. Could they, then, actually still make the extrait and do so quite convincingly even under a massive reformulation? It seems possible, but I can’t answer that question, obviously, so hopefully I can assuage your sadness at the loss in a way that mine was fairly well assuaged. Smelling two different formats side-by-side of a perfume like Nahema is a tricky task. Going nose-blind is quite easy, and its diffusiveness and tenacity makes it difficult to escape in order to reset the nose. A lot of time and a lot of effort this little experiment did take. The openings of both have some notable differences. The extrait is very much rose and powdery aldehydes. The famous Guerlain peach skin accord is present, made a bit juicy by the presence of orange, but it sits in the background to the rose providing beautiful dimension and breadth. The opening of the extrait is a slow burn; it will not let itself be rushed, like the determined but unhurried blooming of a rose. The rose of the EdP is virtually the same as the extrait, but the EdP leans into the fruit aspects a little bit more and the powdery aldehydes have had their volume turned down a notch or two. Application of the EdP includes some alcohol off-gassing that honestly makes any sort of hesperidic component a bit blurry, but once that subsides, and the slightly stronger fruit aspects of the EdP dry down a bit, the extrait and the EdP are almost indistinguishable. As the two march towards the heart section we start to see a divergence. The extrait goes impossibly rich and succulent. Getting darker. Deeper. Black clouds are consuming the domed sky overhead. It’s a storm of roses, a vortex of black and deep red petals. Hand on my heart, I think this is the best rose accord in perfume history. All of the elegance, regality, and ubiquity of rose are present, but its baroque and operatic, thrillingly compelling and dramatic traits are pushed front and center. Part of this black, baroque, and dramatic nature is due to, I believe, some base materials stretching up into the heart a bit out of sync with the rest of the perfume. Earthy, dark, mildly sweet and mildly vanillic tonka and patchouli, and a touch of animalic styrax, give the rose a deep, rumbling, and powerful growl. The tropical lean of ylang-ylang adds exoticism, accenting the drama. The EdP doesn’t go so far in this direction, opting instead to keep some rays of the sun peaking through dark gray rain clouds rather than black vortex clouds. There is a thunderstorm in the EdP as well, but it’s a powerful summer shower, not an apocalypse. Responsible for this are higher doses of green notes and indoles emanating from the brighter jasmine and hyacinth, and a starchy ylang-ylang rather than ripe-banana-exoticism. Different, but very nearly just as gorgeous as the extrait. Then, finally in both, the storms are over and the clouds depart, and we are left with warm and wet air quickly reheating from the sun's rays and staying close and palpable. The sandalwood amber base of both carry virtually the same notes: creamy beige sandalwood, slightly sweet patchouli and some vanilla, and a bit of aromatic vetiver. The key thing to note, which should be obvious and expected, is that the base in the EdP is thinner. The extrait’s final skin scent is rich and dense, but that’s because it has a lot more naturals at much higher concentrations. The modern EdP opts more for synthetics and at lower concentrations. So, though the EdP is thinner, less rich, and less dense, don’t interpret that as “poor.” It isn’t. The final dry down to the skin scent is still very good and still very recognizably Nahema. The extrait though... I mean... ah forget it, I’m going to stop now. I’ve run out words. I just want to keep smelling it. So there you have it, the quick and dirty on Nahema vintage extrait and the new EdP, one of the best rose perfumes ever made. Chase down some of the extrait if you have the time and money, but if you’re not sure about parting with your cash then try the EdP first. If you really like the EdP, you’re going to fall over in ecstasy smelling the extrait. We’re very fortunate to have Nahema still with us in the EdP. She’s changed; the times have changed; somethings stay and somethings go. I will treasure my vintage extrait for as long as I live, but, when I really want this diva’s company yet I’m feeling a bit too apprehensive to reach for some very expensive drops of the extrait, the EdP does well.

Nahéma is a rose fragrance that has been given the Guerlain treatment. I have a tiny vintage vial of the parfum concentration, and I have yet to smell the EDP/EDT. I am fussy about rose in perfume, and have both loved and hated its inclusion in many scents, both modern and vintage. For instance, if a rose note is too sweet, synthetic or choked with patchouli, it's not for me. This is not the case with Nahéma. It is quite simply the best rose scent I have ever smelled. Frédéric Malle Une Rose comes close, and is what I reach for when I want to wear a rich rose scent, but Nahéma is something special. Made with top quality ingredients as was the norm for vintage Guerlain, Nahéma is complex, with fleeting hints of myriad notes that all serve to complement the rose at its core. Nahéma opens with a boozy, slightly smoky rose. There are touches of red berry-like notes and tropical passionflower adding some sweetness. The rose takes centre stage as it settles - dark, rich and sultry, blooming on my skin. The addition of hyacinth is a masterstroke, adding a hint of waxy white floral goodness, rounding out the rose. It is very subtle, playing a distant second fiddle to the rose, allowing it to shine. There is a brief green tinge here too, giving the rose a lift. It becomes quite spicy as it develops, with soft, rich sandalwood adding depth. As it dries down, vanilla adds an oriental, Shalimar-style twist, giving just the right amount of smooth sweetness, while some patchouli adds grassy earthiness. There is a honey-like quality that comes to fore, adding rich, opulent depth to the sweetness in the base - a bee bottle would be fitting! The spicy rose accord, bolstered by its rich sweet base remains until it fades to an powdery amber skin scent. Sillage is moderate and longevity is day-long, as expected from a parfum. Regal and classic, Nahéma is a lush, heady rose perfume that smells like old-school elegance without being dusty or grandmotherly. In fact, it is sultry and almost femme-fatale in style. Absolutely beautiful - the rose gold standard. 5/5.

Nahema extract is like the quiet and more conservative older sister of Vivienne Westwood's Boudoir. I was able to find this on Etsy and I am in love! I have never tried the original regular (more complex) Nahema or the new 2021 version which is weirdly hard to find, considering that it is 6 months into 2021 right now. But I digress. Nahema Extrait arrives quietly and calmly with a lotion like sweetness that reminds me of my nanny long ago. She was so beautiful and she may have worn this! Nahema extract is like the quiet and more conservative older sister of Vivienne Westwood's Boudoir. Bubblegum and a touch of "who are you lookin' at" despite an upperclass upbringing and education. Roses and city parks, gardens and streets in the best parts of town and galleries and art exhibits. Boudoir is the titled lady who dates rock stars, Nahema extract dates struggling brilliant painters and composers. After an hour it is a comforting and sexy caress of sandalwood and vanilla with roses heavy in the air. There is a feeling of excitement and anticipation in it as well as serenity. It smells like a perfect love with a touch of trust and self-possession. A woman who is a young mother and an adored wife, or simply a woman who has learned to love herself.

This is stunning! I have a bottle of the newest EDP but wanted to try the vintage. I purchased a micro mini, and after the harsh, rather unpleasant green opening, which is identical to the EDP, the sweetest, spiciest rose note emerges and it becomes the stuff dreams are made of! I am so enamored by this rose (frakenrose, actually, as rumor has it that it was composed without any actual rose at all), that I can't even bring myself to analyze it and suss out any additional notes. I catch glorious whiffs each time I move my hands. Someone below mentioned that this should not be sprayed on, and I have to agree. The scent seems more concentrated and dense this way. If you are a fan of the current Nahema, you owe it to yourself to at least sample the parfum. It is a true marvel and masterpiece.

Nahéma is the freshest rose honey collected by Guerlain bees from the secret garden. You should smell her in the air. Keep your nose away from your skin. Let her go free and fly. Please don't bite a bouillon cube directly for tasting some good meals!