Parure

@blkleather_redlace, @eunicemichelle, Ok, so here is what I know from a reliable source at Guerlain (this goes years back): Parure was “adjusted” over time still before it landed in the bee bottle. However, the levels of some restricted materials (not only oak moss) contained in the formula were allegedly so high that it could never comply with very strict norms which were about to be implemented. Since Parure was a very special fragrance to Jean Paul Guerlain, which he created for his mother, he personally undertook to reformulate. But his attempts were not able to produce a result without changing the fragrance beyond recognition, which he wouldn’t approve of. This in combination with rather low sales (Parure had never been a bestseller) was a reason to discontinue the fragrance. I don’t think the costs of reformulation have anything to do with the decision. After all, companies like Guerlain keep reformulating and adjusting their fragrances for many reasons all the time, the costs of which are calculated into each bottle of fragrance you buy. Also, I’m absolutely convinced ( but that’s just my opinion) that if it was any other fragrance, they would have probably approved a mediocre reformulation as acceptable and left it on the market. But Parure was a different story because of the personal attachment of JPG, so he had the final say. I love Parure and cherish my last bottle of it. Sometimes I think I would prefer to have a reformulated version rather than nothing. But I also admit I get very frustrated with botched reformulations, so perhaps it’s still better to have a good memory of the fragrance not ruined by a clumsy attempt to keep it alive at any cost.

Soft verdant hues, watercolor rose, distant hay bales, a periwinkle color sky, this is what I feel as Parure EDT opens on my skin. A few minutes in, I am reminded of wisteria and their scent, sweet and musky, and of labdanum and their powdery, fragrant golden chains. Echoes of mimosa, Poet's narcissus, and iris soon after fold in. It feels the way that distant chimes sound, ringing in a shadowy lilac and twilight plum, headed towards an enchanted forest. The deep, rounded sonority of the florals are heartbreaking, much like the timbre from a flugelhorn or an oboe, baroque in design. They slowly melt into a tawny leather, oakmoss, and Guerlinade, pensive, yet sensual. Pink roses fade into a forest haze, a warm glow, like foxfire, illuminating the forest floor as the horizon. Parure proves to me that it is such a profound chypre that it may have been a bit too much for the ordinary world to handle. Intellectual, yet tacitly erotic, it picks up where Mitsouko left off and amplifies the verve to a new level of complexity. Parure is a wonder and a chypre for the die-hard chypre lover.

I find this stately chypre a plummy leathery version of Nahema even though many have reviewed its similarity to Mitsouko. It is complex and full of contrasts. It is tangy with a smidgen of sweetness from the plum and rose, brightened by citrus but darkened by leather, patchouli and incense, noticeable lilac but woodsy in the dry down. While Barbara Herman thinks it is the perfect warm-weather fragrance, for me, its richness makes it a great dark floral for fall when the weather is warm during the day and cool at night. According to Monsieur Guerlain ~ Jean-Paul Guerlain stated that he created Parure for his mother, who loved jewelry, out of childhood memories of her elegance. The characteristic scent of balsamic resins, at once velvety like cinnamon and enigmatically smoky-woody, is closely linked to antiquity's perfumes and incense, and Jean-Paul Guerlain further explained that his olfactive vision for Parure was inspired by the riches of Egyptian Pharaoh Tutankhamun's tomb.~ Vintage parfum review.

If the world should end and three perfumes had to saved, I would choose PARURE, 1000 and FRACAS - in this order. Parure is one of the most magnificent scents ever made, it is perfect in every aspect and has no fault of any sort. I see it has been compared to others but for me this is truly unique. I am not aware of any other scent resembling Parure in any way. It is too complex to be appropriately described: it's chypre with a touch of fruit, it's woody with a touch of flowers. It's the epitome of what a Great Scent should be: complex without being too much, opulent without being aggressive or overwhelming, elegant without being banal or too understated. I really can't see why this has been discontinued even though a sales person at Guerlain whispered me that a bottle every now and then surfaces on the counter desk and soon it disappears. Maybe to be saved for future generations so they can enjoy this masterpiece.

This is SOOooooooooo good! I was gifted a sample of this by a dear friend here at Fragrantica ( thanks, hon! ) which I then took with me on vacation. At first I was Pleased with this fragrant creation. After an entire week of Generous Application I'm in Love. :) There is a way in which this seems to me very close indeed to the same Guerlain aura as Mitsouko, but the reviewer who stated it's lack of peach is correct. I don't miss it, even though my nose detects no fruit whatsoever. Oakmoss is now considered such a "dangerous" substance that Guerlain cannot properly reformulate her. To discontinue this beauty is perhaps the most respectful choice. But!!!! In the final analysis, PLEASE do try Parure if she crosses your path. Guerlain lovers will not be disappointed by her oh-so-special charm!