Vetiver Parfum

A few points that must be addressed, in order: Comparison to Guerlain Vetiver EDT: as others have said, this new fragrance has less of a distinctive character – the ‘gulp of fresh, cold water’ that becomes by turns grassy, dry and earthy, is not present here, nor is the bite of notes like lemon, bergamot, neroli, and coriander in their citric-herbal brightness... Another way to convey this is to say that the impression of a ‘gardener fresh the lawn with tobacco in his pocket in the first hours of dawn’ (to paraphrase Jean-Paul Guerlain) is subdued here. The classical construction of the EDT is more dynamic: a hint of ‘barbershop’ mentholated astringency giving way to airy vetiver (with the faintest whiff of discreet smokiness) extended by floral and herbal impressions, given texture by black pepper and nutmeg, and finally grounded (and subtly warmed) by tobacco and tonka bean, along with the faintest hum of that ‘guerlainade accord’ – a delicate blend of sweetness and polished, woody smoothness comprised (depending on who you talk to) of notes like orris, sandalwood, white flowers and amber. Comparison to Guerlain Vetiver Extreme: the now-discontinued ‘Extreme’ flanker was, contrary to its name, rather mild and dry, a variation rather than an amplification; impressions of licorice, tarragon and a controlled incense accord conjured an impression of sweetness and warmth that never became especially syrupy. The new Parfum does move more decisively toward sweetness, with a suggestion of liquor (per, to draw on one final comparison from the house of Guerlain, Thierry Wasser’s Guerlain Homme with its rum-infused ‘mojito accord’) without ever developing a boozy humidity we might associate with the fashion for alcoholic accords in contemporary perfumery. The parfum also radiates much more in its initial application, and for a good while after, unlike the surprising tameness of the ‘Extreme’ EDT. In its own right: Guerlain Vetiver Parfum is, as others have said, somewhat linear compared to its cousins... The natural materials supply a greenness in the first hour that is richly articulated but transitions rather quickly into an aromatic blend that is softly homogenous, mobile, and persistent. Though it will obviously appeal to those that already enjoy vetiver-based fragrances, there is a warmth and sweetness here that, especially in the sillage, are broadly appealing. Though the textural qualities of vetiver as a material are thoroughly assertive for the first two or three hours, they are always expressed within a blanket of resinous sweetness that relaxes its woodier edges. The notion of a gin-like effect (juniper – orris – licorice) is an acceptable conceit, though it’s a supporting rather than definitive effect in the transition from head to heart.. One comparison that should be added to this list is Dior’s Eau Sauvage Parfum, first released in 2012 using myrrh as a major ingredient, and later (2017) reconceived using a more balanced apportioning of elemi resin. The strategy used for Guerlain Vetiver Parfum is taken straight from Dior’s playbook: communicate the broad strokes of the original composition in a lower register, adding an ‘oriental’ accent of sweet, smoky resin in place of more ‘classical’ citrus and floral elements. I’m surprised this doesn’t get mentioned more, but I expect the reason is that the pyramid of notes as published here on Fragrantica does not acknowledge elemi resin though it is almost certainly here. In the Dior composition, the effect is a bit more dynamic, probably due to the overlap of the sweet, dense resin with Eau Sauvage’s signature use of hedione (a radiant, citric-jasmine facet) that, when it appears in the heart, creates an effect that is memorably intoxicating. Vetiver Parfum keeps things simpler and more linear; as with their EDT iterations, Guerlain Vetiver was always more soothingly and sanely pleasant in comparison to the Dior, which was prettier and, despite its ‘discreet and fresh’* profile, was also, being ‘virile, lucid and willful’* more demanding, and at times almost distractingly beautiful. [*per Dior’s advertising copy – a bit much but not wrong.] Final (for now) analysis: Vetiver Parfum’s uniqueness lies in its minimalistic combination of green, earthy warmth and unexpected translucence. It wears easily and, despite offering no decisive moment of glory, quickly becomes habit forming and loveable in a paternal, domestic kind of way, albeit as translated through the sensibility of a nice upscale boutique hotel... My wife (who has great taste and is a bit more inclined towards the contemporary than I am) took to it immediately. While I’ve had my doubts about it, it has readily become a habitual morning reach as a warm under-layer to fight the bleary-eyed, soggy slog of January in the Pacific Northwest. Vetiver Parfum does not reinvent the wheel, but it does manage to insert itself comfortably into the canon, feel contemporary, and also work in an unpretentious, well-constructed way. I would offer without cynicism that this is not such an easy feat, and should be appreciated on its own merits. Recommended <3. UPDATE: wearing this into a warm spring, I am developing genuine affection for it where previously my sentiments were closer to 'objective respect.' I think it was less suitable to winter owing to its translucent, close-wearing character. Warmer temperatures brings more of the 'green' and textured (smoky/peppery) facets out of the vetiver, leaving the liquorice isolated as something to be appreciated in the sillage. I notice a slightly mentholated quality in the opening that is consistent with the original and complements the liquorice note very well. I still think the original Guerlain Vetiver has a quality of contradiction (a bright, tangy sunlit sourness in contrast to the dry vetiver/tobacco blend) that makes it truly addictive, whereas this Parfum is something more straightforward -- friendly, durable, easygoing monochromatic quality -- that I reach for on hot days because it holds on longer that the EDT. I often top it up with a pocket atomizer of the EDT -- they layer very well. So again, we have an affable family member that offers what it promises but doesn't reinvent the wheel, but why should it? The wheel was genius already.

Guerlain Vetiver Parfum (GVP) Q&A How was GVP obtained and used? A 3 ml sample that was 1 of 6 samples selected ala carte w/ 3 Hermes, 1 Hugo Boss and 1 Davidoff. Used it a bit over a dozen times over 2.5 months. What is my short opinion of GVP? It is awesome for one who wants some, but not too much sweetness in their fragrance. Of all my samples in 2025, including the afore mentioned litter; this was the top dog. What about the Smoke note in GVP? Yes, Smoke in fragrances can be difficult to pull off because it can produce a strong response; good & bad. Those that expressed negative perceptions of this Smoke note are all legitimate; those are personal perceptions. For me, Guerlain delivered the Smoke note wonderfully; comes out more in the base in a whispery way; magical. I almost wish the Smoke note was more intense; then again, no - it is good as is. What about the Licorice note in GVP? I do not care to eat Licorice. I do not dislike it. I just do not seek it out. With that background, I was pleasantly surprised that I liked the Licorice note in GVP. The Licorice is a supporting note that adds an interesting interaction with the other notes. The Licorice note in GVP is akin to the cowbell in "The Reaper" by BOC; so glad it was there. What about the other notes in GVP? Juniper is dominant in the opening providing a juicy freshness. I did NOT get a gin note from it. Tonka Bean comes off a tad strong note for me; it takes over in the middle and fades in the base. Coriander was not detectable by me; just part of the spicy mix I guess. Vetiver came out more in the base, though I wanted more of it. How does GVP compare to Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum (DESP)? GVP & DESP have overlapping use cases; but they have distinctive note profiles so as to not be redundant. DESP has the better opening with Citron; do note my bias as I am fan of the Citron note. GVP has a slightly better middle and a much better base IMO. The Myrrh and Elemi of DESP are good. I just prefer that Smoky Vetiver w/ Licorice of GVP. When might GVP be worn vs DESP? At a wedding ceremony, I'd go with DESP. At the reception, I'd go with GVP. Both could work for either event; if forced to pick one: it would be GVP.

EN. I first encountered Vetiver in its classic form, which was launched as an EDT in 1959, when I began working with Guerlain as a make-up artist. Although the original was undeniably iconic, it didn’t fully resonate with me at the time because it transmitted some old-fashioned, overly frank masculinity. However, when I recently decided to purchase the new Vetiver Parfum without even sampling it, I was thoroughly impressed. This 2024 Parfum version, crafted by Delphine Jelk, has transformed the woody and spicy essence of vetiver into something even more sophisticated and modern. The addition of juniper berries, smoke, and licorice creates a rich, layered fragrance that feels both timeless and innovative. It exudes elegance and depth, making it perfect for any occasion. This new interpretation of Vetiver is truly a masterpiece, and I now wear it with pride, feeling a deep connection to its storied heritage. IT. Ho conosciuto Vetiver nella sua forma classica, lanciata come EDT nel 1959, quando ho iniziato a lavorare con Guerlain come make-up artist. Sebbene l’originale fosse indubbiamente iconico, non mi ha mai colpito profondamente all’epoca perché trasmetteva una eccessiva mascolinità un po’ antiquata. Tuttavia, quando ho deciso di acquistare la nuova versione Vetiver Parfum senza nemmeno provarla, sono rimasto completamente affascinato. Questa versione Parfum del 2024, creata da Delphine Jelk, trasforma l’essenza legnosa e speziata del vetiver in qualcosa di ancora più sofisticato e moderno. L’aggiunta di bacche di ginepro, fumo e liquirizia conferisce una ricchezza e una profondità straordinarie. È una fragranza che trasmette eleganza e profondità, perfetta per qualsiasi occasione. Questa nuova interpretazione di Vetiver è davvero un capolavoro, e ora la indosso con orgoglio, sentendomi profondamente connesso alla sua storica eredità.

I'll try to describe the differences I'm getting between Vetiver Parfum 2024 batch and the other 2 versions I own: Vetiver EDT 2018 ("listerine" bottle) - The opening is much brighter and uplifting with the citruses in the top. Diffusion is much stronger throughout the live of the perfume. Much more complex scent and evolution on skin. The tobacco leaf and oakmoss in the base really add to the magic of this original masterpiece version. If I would be asked to choose just one, it would be this. Vetiver Extreme 2018 ("listerine" bottle) - After the herbal zing of artemisia and tarragon on first seconds after applying, the opening feels sportier, crisp and a bit barbershopey like a fine shaving cream. Then it gets very smokey on late heart and drydown phases. Personally I get very small (to no) resemblance to the 2024 Parfum (apart from the vetiver note this is constructed very differently). Vetiver Parfum 2024 - Without the citruses up top, this goes into rooty / aromatic vetiver straight from the beginning. You do get a little freshness from the juniper berries and coriander I presume but it is short lived. From mid to base the perfume gets into gorgeously smoooth - creamy - vetiver and a bit of licorice, accompanied by a natural smelling and not overly sweet tonka in the drydown. The Perfume is much linear in development and behaves like a perfume - in that it stays closer to the skin but you get pleasant whiffs all day. It is more "personal" than both the Vetiver EDT and Extreme which are both livelier. But it has great depth and class / sophistication. In conclusion - I love them all! and IMO it is not redundant at all to own all versions if you love vetiver.

I fell in love with vetiver from a sample I got (of "Ex vetiver" by Juliette has a gun) - So I knew I had either buy that or find a better version - and find one I did. I tried both this and the Vetiver fragrance by Carven in the store - and this won for me. Even though they're both great, the Carven one is more "clean" and bright (even slightly bitter?) - while Guerlain's version is darker and deeper and has a very significant "brown" (smoky? spicy? even briney/salty? ) note that pulls everything "down" for me - and balances off the greenness so nicely. I gave a last whiff of the Juliette "Ex Vetiver" sample I have - and it's a lot more "clinical" (not in an unpleasant way, just different : sterile, cold, blue-ish) while the Guerlain one feels more alive, natural, warm, earthy, brown. People are saying this is "sweet" but to my nose it is quite neutral in that regard (i.e. not sweet enough for me to label it as such, but not bitter/sharp/etc. at all either). It feels like it's on the verge of being citrus-y but without crossing that line. Elicits mental images of a gin and tonic with a large & cool slice of cucumber, being sipped in a luxurious wooden cabin bar, with a large window overlooking a waterfall outside. For me this feels an oddly addictive smell (bordering on sensuous) despite being on the "fresh" side of fragrances. its balance and subtlety make it versatile : it could work in casual as well as workplace settings. The only thing worrying me is the performance, but I'm usually a bad judge of that. The store didn't have the EDT so I couldn't compare it to that, but I tend to prefer EDP / Parfum anyhow.