Caleche Soie de Parfum

I lucked into this into a bottle of this beauty on the FREE table of a scent swap, didn’t even need to swap for it. I can’t imagine how it ended up there. The scent swap was at San Francisco’s Ministry of Scent. I knew the name Caleche and had a vague feeling that it was a well regarded vintage. I sprayed some on paper and in the heavily scented atmosphere could detect only a strong aldehydic opening but with a fascinating green twist. Good enough for me! I’m unsure of the age of my bottle, a 100mL frosted glass tester. Without suggesting that Caleche is conflicted or incoherent, I think its fascination lies in its contrasts. It takes the contrasts inherent in the chypre form and marries them to the feel of an aldehydic floral. On top of this genre bending, the addition of cypress and strong, puckery citrus to the opening accord adds a slightly masculine twist, perfectly on brand for Hermès with its equestrian heritage and concomitant refined, sporty androgyny. The floral heart is lovely and tender after the thunderous, bracing opening. I detect mostly stiff iris and unlisted, shadowy ylang ylang. Despite the listed notes here, I find the rose pretty subtle, and imagine the differences between this 90s reformulation and the original are overstated in the branding. Indeed, Caleche Soie de Parfum is still strongly reminiscent of midcentury perfumes in general and the austere sandalwood-backed woody chypres of the early 60s in particular. Where I do sense a more modern (although in 2025 now bringing its own nostalgic appeal) is the approach to sandalwood. While I haven’t smelled an older version of Caleche, the sandalwood accords of its moment tended to be dry and imposing. While the sandalwood here at times presents such a face, it ultimately melts into the a buttery softness much more in keeping with the 90s. Still, the glaring white character of the opening never really fades, carrying through with the iris, sandalwood, and—yes—touch of chilly frankincense (that prefigured Andy Tauer’s glacial Incense Extreme). Even the mosses here seem to have been whitewashed. And yet the naturalistic cypress, the romantic florals, the supple sandalwood all await to embrace those who dare face down the gorgon that Caleche pretends to be—and is !

I am a big fan of Chanel No.5 and smell the resemblance between Caleche Soie de Parfum and that fragrance with the use of shared notes. But with the extreme use of aldehydes in this fragrance, it is more in line with Chanel No. 22 and EL's White Linen, than No. 5. Yet somehow, I have an easier time dealing with it here than I do with those fragrances. One thing they all share in common though, is that they all smell like they are from the era of great French perfumery yet are still very wearable today. My preference is for the original Caleche, in particular the parfum version, mainly because it's much lighter on the aldehydes and in that way is more similar to Chanel No. 5, though it has a personality of its own. Still, there is no denying this is a beauty. If you love perfumes like No. 22 or White Linen, then you might like this too. Edit - In the winter this wears very musky, but in warmer weather a creamy citron stays throughout the duration of the fragrance, and it is just beautiful with the floral notes. It really elevates this scent. I think I will use this primarily in the warm weather because I love that element.

Calèche Soie de Parfum is a radiant aldehydic floral. I haven't had a chance to try the original Calèche - this modern flanker is all that's on offer at my local Hermès boutique. Elegant and refined, it is subtly glamorous and high-quality. CSP opens with bright aldehydes, the olfactory equivalent to evening sunlight. Tart, fresh citrus notes add to the brightness, more golden that blindingly white. The florals creep in as it develops, and it becomes more soapy. I get lily-of-the-valley and some fruity neroli. As it develops, the rose becomes prominent, dewy and crisp but becoming more powdery as it develops, enhanced by soft iris. The drydown is softly woody and slightly mossy, but it remains soapy and bright with prominent rose. It fades to a powdery, slightly soapy skin scent. Sillage and longevity are moderate. Feminine-leaning in my opinion, it is classic elegance in a bottle, but slightly undone, like an elegant, wealthy woman on holiday. Aptly named, it is as smooth, airy and lightweight as silk. Smells like old money. 4.5/5.

What a beautiful masterpiece, a perfectly balanced chypre! Why I didn’t come across Calèche earlier? I would probably fall short at describing it, but for me ticks all the boxes. Fizzy and bubbly aldehydes in the opening, a bit powdery and tender heart and a beautiful oakmoss and sandalwood dominates passing the 4 hour mark. It’s sharp but not as much as Rive Gauche, evolves into a warm and powdery iris intertwined with oakmoss, creamy sandalwood and it’s demurely sexy. It’s such a balanced creation, all the notes evolve in perfect harmony, they seem to compliment one another in a very natural and precise way. I’m loving this fragrance to the point of wearing it almost everyday without growing bored of it, it’s a very elegant, classy scent that suits any occasion. Aldehydes are not crowd pleasers, some might say it’s a vintage, dated fragrance but Calèche it’s quite modern and versatile, the full concept of the composition is quite upbeat and energising whilst retaining its feminine heart.

Now this is the fizzy-soapy-floral perfume I've been looking for! If you like the aldehydes in Chanel No. 5, this is going to blow your socks off. A sparkling aldehyde melody takes center stage in Calèche Soie de Parfum and harmonizes beautifully with the iris-rose-citrus-moss accord that would by itself be too screechy and cloying. The aldehydes here soften, refract, and magnify the core structure, and the end product smells like something from a more luxurious bygone era. Think skin washed with fine French-milled soap, then powdered and spritzed with a heady floral perfume, then left to sweat under the late afternoon sun for a few hours. Perhaps not the most graceful description, but the closest I can come to the presence and elegance of Calèche. This makes me dream of strolling under sun-baked colonnades next to a mossy, languid pool. I am ageless, neither young nor old, and an endless summer stretches before me.

I love Caleche since always, even if I'm not a regular wearer, BUT... EdT was made thinner and what about the opulent Soie de Parfum? I'm not sure. Something smells weird here. It's still a longlasting powerful floral plus aldeide, still ladylike, but it's somehow heavier and less airy than before. On my skin after 1 hour it develops a slightly annoying and banging grapefruit note. I never noticed that in past years. I thought that being an inconsistent wearer maybe I didn't notice every single nuance. It can be, but I also find this note identical to the annoying "grapefruit" edge in Jour d'Hermes which is taken to an extreme in the Absolu. I despise that note and I hope it's not the new chemical for bergamot note. It's not as volatile as bergamot rather a hammering note that never fades. Here in Soie de Caleche is blended nicely more or less, but in many perfumes it gives me the acrid armpit edge.

This is amazing... so classy, crisp, romantic... I mean I'm in love. It might seem vintage to people who are not used to the "classics" of perfumery or more into gourmands (nothing negative about that). It's as if Chanel N5 had a cousin that was just as pretty as her. Not the same at all... but it's in that general area of perfumery. This is the very much grown up and classy citrus oriented scent. The opening is beautiful aldehydes, citrus notes, citrus skin, rose, the the heart of the perfume goes to rose, a velvety iris and rose... a beautiful smokiness some of the base notes surrounds orange blossom. After a few hours the dry down is really nice, sweet airy florals and resins. This is one of those perfumes that is good all year round, day and night (if that matters to you ^^). This is now part of my all time favourites... It's on my birthday wish list for sure ^^

Beautiful. This is so conceptual and alludes to the ideal of extreme refinement, poise and the epitome of everything elite. It's too beautiful and invokes strong emotional responses. The opening is a dominant powdery iris, rose and ylang ylang with a piercing blast of aldehydes, creating the impression of the sun on a winter morning. This fragrance creates a force field of power, distance, and protection around you, it insulates you from external influences because it is such a powerful and self-assured expression. 10/10. It's completely ageless and timeless but unmistakably feminine, an assertive matriarchal and stoic figure. I love the contrast between the delicate soapy petals and the earthy, mature accords of oakmoss and vetiver.

Masterpiece!! This is Chanel Les exclusifs NO22 and YSL Rives Gauche in one - pure classy perfection in a bottle. Although Chanel 22 has a beautiful warmer/darker ambery aldehydic veil all over , whereas Caleche SDP remarkably keeps distinguished citruses and aldehydes going gradually melting into a french clean soap scent. I love these both scents and both are FB worthy, where C22 is a “DO” on the piano key-board and Caleche SDP is “LA”:-) Caleche SDP Is a velvety sparkling scent. sadly I am not aware of the distinguished nose behind this adorable creation, but by the associations it brings - imagine someone wearing Bigarafe Concentree by Jean Claude Ellena/Frederic Male diving from the top of the cliff into the Magnum Brute :-)

Caleche Soie is soapy, clean, mossy and floral in the most beautiful way possible. This fragrance is definitely a true chypre floral, full of aldehyde sparkle and the rich depth of oakmoss. The iris and rose take centre stage and sing in graceful harmony - all day long. One of the finest compositions I have come across - rich, delicate and complex. This lady is all class. If I had to only have one perfume - this is it. (The newer formulation is much less heavy in oakmoss than the original. This makes a difference in the opening, with the original being much heavier. The dry down is very similar between versions and longevity is superb for both).

This is a gorgeous fragrance, but it’s not ‘modern’ by any means - it is still dominated by aldehydes. It is very much in the vein of the original Caleche EDT, but also Chanel No 5, Givenchy Ysatis and other aldehyde bombs. If you love any of these scents, then this is a no brainer; however, if you’re not so keen on aldehydes, I don’t think that this version of Caleche would serve as a good entrance point, because it is oh-so-very-retro. Aside from aldehydes, it also contains lemons, mosses and roses. It is quite strong and lasts forever.

This review is for the reformulated Caleche. It is bright, intense juice. Im not surprised to be hit with aldehydes first. Next I am very aware of soapiness, oakmoss, citrus and then a little rose. Not surprisingly it takes a while for the rose and wood notes to really appear as the soapiness is quite strong. A very classic fragrance thats perfect for formal wear. Tbh I find it a touch too much for me on the aldehydes but I will definitely use it for layering because the sillage and longevity are very good.

This is amazing. I simply love the smell. After a while it does get this sort of "clean sweat" smell, only not. I think it's the aldehydes. It starts off like a real classic fragrance, showing its age a bit, but this has class and elegance written all over it. The scent trail is stunning and the longevity? Crazy. 12+ hours since I sprayed it on my hand and several hand washes and a shower later, I can still smell it CLEARLY on my skin. And to those who are wondering: This is a bottle bought in 2021.

Effervescent aldehydes and wood/green/citrus notes surrounding a classic red damask rose, all combining to become "liquid sunshine" as accurately described by a number of other reviewers. To wear this, I have to be having a really confident day, but I think if I chose it on a gray day, maybe I would find my confidence soaring. I would describe this as the way citrine would smell if stones were scented.

It's a classy nonchalance. Like a luxurious French soap. Quite vintage but in a good way. It smells clean, calm and relaxing. It will make you feel "high-class". This is the kind of scent that can cuddle you to sleep. If you like the classics like chanel no5, ysatis, dioressence,sisley eau du soir or similar chypre or aldehyde types of perfumes, then you will definitely learn to love it too.

I have been using Caleche for a number of years. I love aldehydes, but this one is the grand dame of them all for me, even Chanel No. 5. I have the soir de parfum edition and I get at least 10 plus hours of soapy, creamy yumminess. I think that it smells of the most luxurious French soap ever. Projection and sillage are beastly. A solid 10 for me.

Hermes Caleche (1961) - golden hue - #guyrobert ‘s masterpiece for Hermes is sparkling and aldehydic with Iris and Ylang and White floral for its heart. I also get that Citron note contrasted with the waxy start. Grounded by Oakmoss, Sandalwood and Vetiver. Makes me happy everytime I wear it.

Clean and soapy mossy aldeydic floral about sums it up. If you like this style of perfume, you'll love this one. Great representation of the genre. 8.5/10

If there was anything as a classy, mature elf, this is what she would smell like.

My Mom’s scent and that’s it ❤️, I smell it on her when I was 1 day old until now