Hermessence Cedre Sambac

Shadows and light: the contrast illuminates the spirit and draws attention to its inner depths. In Cedre Sambac, perfumer Christine Nagel demonstrates the importance between these two contrasts in bringing to relief the whole picture. Jasmine Sambac, voluptuous, seductive, but also white hot, is pulled in a drier, shadier direction through cedar. As if by some trickery, one brings out qualities in the other that wouldn’t be as noticeable if they were to stand alone. Maybe in addition to these two, Nagel included tuberose and sandalwood—or maybe, just maybe, one or the other is creating these illusions through their partnership. Above and beyond that, there are suggestions of charming scents that tickle my memory: pencil erasers (rubbers), brand new paperback books, hotel soaps, the interior of a hope chest, visits to Grossman’s (a now defunct chain similar to the Home Depot of today) with my Dad as a kid. But then it we go back to the shadows and light of the subject matter. Flowers and woods. Yin and Yang. Even maybe Ylang Ylang. While indoles are here, they are more oblique, and over time become unapparent. The subtle but persistent dry down, is more billowy, creamier, and it’s as if the cedar, rather than giving splinters, could melt in your mouth like one of those mints your grandmother would give you. Sometimes Nagel’s compositions elude and frustrate me, but much like Galop d’Hermes and Mauboussin Histoire d’Eau, this pleases me tremendously. Now I must try Violet Volynka and Archives 69.

This charmed me to begin with and that's what made me buy a small travel spray but I find it fascinating from a technical standpoint. The Jasmine note (accord even) is very interesting in that it's clearly emulating nature but from messing with Jasmine aroma chemicals (of which there are many) myself, I can sort of smell the genesis of this Jasmine note. For starters it seems less like a jasmine sambac to me, and although has traces of indole, which make it natural smelling, it's not a full whack of jasmine skank. This has that...inside of a banana, exotic, tropical fruit, funk and trace of ylang to it. It feels like a white flowers accord with aspects of tuberose too, and it's an interesting exercise for someone like me who is constructing recreations of florals like this to see how master perfumers like Nagel do it. Not only that but how it's carefully and skillfully blended with a woody base, that has the complimentary creaminess to accent the florals. The delivery...well it is mainly a jasmine fragrance to be honest and it lasts well and opens room filling but mellows well. I like it but it's not the most uplifting heavenly jasmine I've tried in my life.

[Feb. 2023] (... Continued from my review of Muguet Porcelaine.) Hermessence Sambac is a lactonic floral of which its indole is as creamy as lotion but the flower light as a breeze. It's no sampaguita, and it's not like the jasmines outside the garden either. The drydown reminds me of Do Son, but its nowhere as soapy or tingly-sharp as Do Son. Hermessence Sambac remains lightly warm and creamy for a duration of its run without a hint of greens or smoke, it is mostly a Jasmine solinote but never tiring to me. One of my favourite florals for its delicate balance of appearing lightweight without evaporating into nothing so soon. It lasts for 4-5 hours but on fresh clothes, it remained the next day. It does recall the newly discontinued Tom Ford Santal Blush, but Cedre Sambac doesn't smell like powder, smell sharp, or tingle the nose like the former. It also doesn't smell "cute" like Santal Blush (peach note?) Though not the same, I feel this made a good replacement for Santal Blush. Much creamier. Regardless, my go-to fragrance to pair with Muguet Porcelaine from my travel set. And with Osmanthe Yunnan, an enjoyable asiatic-styled tea bouquet experience.

Exactly what it says on the tin. You expect something more like Jo Malone’s two ingredient, well-blended and pleasant but soulless signature, but this is beautifully done, and this is coming from someone who can definitely find jasmine sickly at times. The sweet and sensuous character of the sambac jasmine (be sure to temper your expectations if you’re more familiar with european jasmine grandiflorum - this is a distinct smell to that) is perfectly balanced with the vigour and strength of an equally sensuous, slightly smoky cedarwood here. Opening is jasmine heavy, then depending on your body temperature and the weather anywhere between 5 mins to an hour in the cedarwood joins the party fully. It’s an addictive and creamy smooth scent which is sexy and seductive but with just enough restraint to keep it classy and PG-13 - it’s a skimpy dress or partially unbuttoned shirt, not full frontal nudity or lingerie if that analogy is helpful.

This smells so good. Very underrated. It’s cedar and jasmine in equal parts, neither overpowering the other. It has a crisp clean feel, reminding me of fresh washed clothes drying on a clothes line by a cedar tree. Takes me back to sunny spring days as a kid playing outside. Woody without being too harsh, floral without being too feminine. The jasmine just floats on the edge, never getting too indolic or too intense, and the cedar never feels inanimate like furniture. Hermessence line gets a bad wrap for being “too fleeting” but I think each one is designed exactly as they should be, with high quality ingredients and thoughtfully made; not trying to be some best seller powerhouse. If this fragrance was stronger it would be terrible. But as it is, it’s the perfect ethereal swirl of fresh cut cedar, with a slightly powdery floral sprinkling of jasmine. Invigorating. Lasts plenty long enough and projects just as much as it should.

Instantly a very enchanting blend of sweet woods, amaretto/almond liqueur, and smooth jasmine dancing around on top. Maybe a touch of dry incense, certainly a toasty warmth without the smokiness that often accompanies that. A light leathery under-tone gives this a firmly classy character. The jasmine is musky-sweet, pushing the fragrance towards a more feminine profile, but the sweetness never feels immature. In the dry-down an inoffensive lactonic quality sits close to the skin. My mother used to wear 'Vanderbilt' by Gloria Vanderbilt, and I'm getting some familiarity to that here, so a twinge of nostalgia for me which is very pleasant. Some may feel this is too 'old-fashioned' but I would argue that it's more classically timeless. VERDICT: For the elegant woman, or the refined man and those that adore woody jasmine, this is a must-try.

I was hesitant to try Cedre Sambac because I thought, with the prominent cedar note, it might be an Iso E or amberwood-y overloaded monstrosity. It is NOT. The woody notes are beautiful. It smells like there are at least some wood naturals in here. JCE has mentioned a preference for using either Iso E or Hedione as fixatives, and I believe Nagel is doing something similar here with Hedione in the base, since the far drydown is floral/musky, not woody, to my nose.(I'm not saying there's no Iso E, just that if it's there, it's dosed in a way that my nose doesn't detect it and object.) The overall effect is an elegant, crisp, cool balance between the woods and florals. Wears beautifully in the heat, a love from me.

What I love about cedre sambac - and feel is almost ground-breaking, actually - is that it really plays with jasmine's characteristically inky, mothball-y, grandma's closet-y, naphthalene smell. Most perfumes try to tone this aspect down with sweet notes (even the greats like lust, songes, a la nuit) but the cedar and other synthetic cdg-esque woody nuances here somehow both enhance and cancel out the naphthalene, so that it's no longer unpleasant but rather a special scent of its own. Sinus clearing, for sure, but still really pleasant. Like some of Nagel's recent creations it has a distinctly clean, hypermodern feel. Not a crowd-pleaser but a totally unisex and unique take on jasmine.

In love with this one. It’s very clear and feels very familiar but the nuances just make it distinct. The jasmine is there but it’s just indolic enough to be generous, creamy, skin-like; against the severe cedar that also has a spicyness to it. It feels very dual. Strict but generous, sober yet free. The harmony of the bitter sharpness with the warmth makes me think of Chanel 19 although it has nothing to do with it. 03/22 - Compared it with a vintage parfum bottle of Patou's Joy just to see the difference between two indolic fragrances. This is has a very balanced salty indolic note. Joy is through the roof piss/fecal indolic and fades into a more floral powdery musk.

A tuberose fragrance that is powdery and floral, but somehow i can see a man wearing this. The cedar base must be the reason for this having a unisex smell Update: this would be awesome for a young metropolitan businessman in a white dress shirt Update: I don't like it on me. It has a very uppity, dusty floral aspect to it that screams "don't come near me, peasant, or I'll cry out in pain." I'm a guy, and it makes me smell like a spoiled and pampered momma's boy. I say this is better for the ladies

This smells of REAL sandalwood to me—the actual chips for incense! I find a hint of jasmine but no tuberose. Not only is this my favorite of the new trio, it has made into my Top 4 for the mini coffret I purchased! *Tuberose & jasmine grandiflorum absolute are both at least twice as expensive as sambac, so from a marketing standpoint there's no reason why to omit such selling point, which means the sandalwood I smell must also be an illusion :(

WOW! Starts with a bang of burnt plastic and hospital desinfectant to then morph into an animalic jasmin. Explosive. Dirty. Fecal. Post orgasm it becomes a rather demure but long lasting skin scent. Creamy jasmin (and definitely tuberose!) on a fluffy cloud of cedar. With a subtle tang of salty skin. Sultry summer nights in a bottle....

Hermessence Cedre Sambac by Hermès, Christine Nagel's masterpiece fragrance: magical alchemical duet between Sambac jasmine and cedar wood. The white floral notes evoke warm spring atmospheres blend with the warm enveloping amber / boises notes of cedar wood. An enveloping, seductive and sensual blend of great charm.

This really reminds me of Santal Blond by Atelier Materi but more toned down and less in-your-face. Love the both of them but if you’re looking for lasting power and projection, (and less floral but more creamy) Santal Blond is probably the way to go.

I don't like this on me. It has a very uppity, dusty floral aspect to it that screams "don't come near me, peasant, or I'll cry out in pain." I'm a guy, and it makes me smell like a spoiled and pampered momma's boy. I say this is better for the ladies

Cedre Sambac is a masculine tuberose on my skin. Dry and a bit peppery it reminds me of Diptyque Do Son which I adore. A must have for a guy tuberose lover.

Cedre Sambac is a masculine tuberose on my skin. Dry and a bit peppery it reminds me of Diptyque Do Son which I adore. A must have for a guy tuberose lover.

It reminds me of Tom Ford 'Santal Blush', slightly softer and less full. In both there are Jasmin and Cedre.....

spring evening in komoro by ito shinsui ++++++++ The Strange Case of Angelica by Manoel de Oliveira 2010 Pp+++

To me, it smells like new books and I love it!