Hermessence Poivre Samarcande

A really interesting one. Right of the bat, right from the sprayer, on the paper and on my skin and on the first sniff: Cumin! The peppery, warm, and savory heat of cumin with it's dry, B.O. aspect. I'm a sucker for cumin. It's one of the notes that when I detect it in a fragrance, my eyebrows rise from excitement. That peppery, savory heat of cumin automatically reminds me of taco seasoning. In fact, I even feel the corn chip in there. Of course Hermes won't put a "corn chip" accord in one of their fragrance (unless they're trying to revolutionize gourmand with a savory offering). It could just be the inseparable association of taco spices to corn chips, but anyway, this fragrance kind of suggests the appetizer in the gourmand world instead of the dessert. Well, minus the meat. This fragrance is merely the spices that you would flavor the meat giving it a "Mexican" touch. But don't let that description repel you. In fact, despite the savoryness of the spice, it is not strong at all. It is very light in fact. It's what they call a skin scent, at least on me. The cumin gives off a humanistic, peppery heat similar to how Ambilux by Marlou is cumin dominated (I don't get much animalics on that one), although this one is obviously more bare, with the spices playing alone. Ambulix is cumin, but warm and sepia tone with a feathery, musky honey lurking from underneath, this is just spice. What's quite interesting about this is that unlike other savory spicy fragrances, like Serge Noire for example, the spice in Poivre Samarcande never reaches to a maximum level of smelling funky, full on B.O. (which i also really like, btw). The spice is moderate and minimal, yet bare and realistic, and it lays on a fresh and clean ground, making it almost wearable (if you don't mind smelling a little bit like a snack). I can't decipher what gives this fragrance a clean background. It's not a citrus note, nor a floral note, nor a detergenty, laundry, shampooy, soapy note. It could be the woods? It could be the perfect proportion of the notes? Either way, It's a pretty wearable cumin that is barely touched with unnecessary foreign notes. It's a linear scent. Due to the lack of complexity and banquet of notes, this doesn't evolve too much. It stays stationary, and obviously weakens on the skin when time pass by. I need a full bottle of this. Too bad the price is too much of a pain in the ass.

Hermés Poivre Samarcande If ever the phrase ‘less is more’ was applied to a fragrance in the truest form, then Poivre Samarcande would be precisely that fragrance. Similarly, if Jean-Claude Ellena were an artist, he would the the world’s most celebrated water-colourist of all time. We all laud his genius and ability to create these light & aqueous fragrances like almost no other nose can, yet we also have to admire the restraint it must take to consistently follow this path. I’ve owned several decants and samples of this over the years but never somehow brought myself to buy a full bottle: there’s always been another fragrance ahead of it in the queue but have always made the same decision every time. I used up the last drops of my most recent decant a month or so ago and kicked myself when I went to wear it a couple of weeks ago and found the cupboard bare..... but then an odd thing happened; I suddenly realised that I actually NEEDED it, not just wanted to have it as part of my collection but I actually craved it like an addict: so a full bottle was ordered immediately. Most may be mistaken, looking at the note pyramid and certainly if unfamiliar with the main body of Elena’s work, that this would be heavier than it is: pepper, patch, oakmoss, caraway, paprika..... of course it must be but remarkably, his talent keeps it light, minimally spicy, ever so slightly sweet and almost ethereal & wispy. It is odd really though, as although I would say it’s note breakdown leans more masculine, it’s transparency definitely lends itself to the feminine side, yet I wouldn’t necessarily say it is truly unisex per se. It matters not a jot ultimately; wear what the hell you like and that’s all that matters. Of course, everything is moderate; longevity, sillage etc but that’s okay; Ellena doesn’t do beast-mode as a rule and that’s just fine. Besides, it wouldn’t work in the line & even Amber Narguile is the same to a degree. Importantly though, the one thing it did make me do, realising that I needed it in my life, was to make me look at the hundreds of fragrances in my collection and realise...... I actually don’t NEED them like I need this: I could trim it down by 80-90% and be happy. But Hermessence Poivre Samarcande stays....... it’s going nowhere!

I tried Poivre Samarcande several times at the official Hermes boutique in my city, and as a fan of Molecule 01 and some Ellena's creations such as Terre d'Hermès or Cartier Déclaration, I naturally came to quickly like this opus of Hermessence. The scent itself is near perfection to me. Even if the Iso E Super is pretty obvious, it does not 'monopolize' the composition. Now... the oakwood note. To me, it gets the main role of the symphony. And it plays it wonderfully well: dry and luminous, noble, uplifting, realistic. Spices are surrounding it with elegance, salty and slightly pungent, yet without stealing the show. Then the oakmoss kicks in and gives a soothing feeling to the scent, keeping it from being too dry and straightforward. An absolute heaven. Flat and calm, quite dry, warm and mysterious... An admirable piece of work. When it comes to longevity, it is quite good (just like an iso scent should be). Low sillage combined with anosmia might give the feeling that it's gone when it is actually just hidden. People around can still smell it on me 6 hours into application. Btw, I just snapped, and went for a full 100ml bottle, which looks great and feel heavy, with a genuine leather/metal cap. Package also includes a beautiful Hermès canvas pouch, with some 4ml samples. The box itself is presented as a box of chocolates, and the bottle is beautifully wrapped in Hermès paper. I absolutely love it! A beautiful and versatile skin scent, and my new signature fragrance.

For me this perfume gives stage to a clear pepper and oak wood blending which results in a extraordinairy refined and dry, warm as well as meditative and protective experience. Other ingredients are stepping back and are rarely noticeable, but doing their part for a round composition. The picture of an oriental market sometimes associated with this perfume has it’s limitations: if you rest only at the pepper corner, than yes. I don’t see, that this perfume touches other spices. In this perfume I see much more a quiet appartement, furnished with oak and having it’s main windows to the courtyard rather than the street (and a separated kitchen). Furthermore, this perfume reminds me to concert halls and elegant festival summers in Europe. In this perfume I see a good base for layering (from time to time) with flower-based scents, like Chanel’s Paris - Paris. To stay in the picture: in the appartement described above, nothing is missing. It’s just like going with certain moments and seasons when putting a vase of flowers on the dining table. For me, one of the best developped perfumes, not only technically, but also in it’s potential for evoking personal associations. This perfume embeds me in a setting that I would call home, it supports both relaxation and concentration. I very much appreciate that the perfume is rechargeable. Throwing away beautiful bottles cannot be a solution on this planet.

You can immediately smell Jean Claude Ellena’s DNA (extremely natural and transparent) Its a warm woody and peppery fragrance. First sniff I smell mostly pepper and something similar to clove, then the cedar wood smoothly enters as it dries down. It is pretty linear but so warm and classy. Regarding longevity issues I read from other people, I get solid 6 hours longevity (good but not disappointing either). Sits close to the skin for sure. This (and the whole Hermessence line IMO) do, and I’m fine with it. This is the type of scent that you want to wear when you are with someone special, you want to wear this while on a date with your girlfriend, on a small reunion with your close friends or family. Not all the perfumes in the world have to project like monsters or get noticed by a lot of people (say One Million or Le Male for example) some are for the more private or personal occasions, and the Hermessence line fits this description. Similar to Bang by Marc Jacobs? I’d say a 50% . I have both and they’re very good in their own fields, Bang is more a pepper bomb, while Poivre is a more natural and smooth refined pepper and woody fragrance.

The recent Fragrantica review by Elena Knezhevich prompted me to give this deep sleeper another day in court. When given particular, dedicated attention -- free from any desire to compare its delicate silence to the overwhelming entirety of the star-studded Hermessence line -- Poivre Samarcande reveals itself as Elena's subtly narcotic homage to that most recurrent element of his oeurve: Iso E Super. Here, in the commercial context of a collectable set, the artist seems to be free of the usual necessity to create a product that must sell itself to the masses, and can instead give time and attention to their own peculiar interests, and produce what seems to be a self-portrait. The most direct comparison is Molecule 01, of course, but the hulking intensity of Molecule 01 is rounded-out, boxed-in and damped-down by Poivre Samarcande's perfectly pitched, namesake accord of fresh Black Peppercorns. Androgynous, anonymous, universal and versatile: I quite like this fragrance.

I have never seen anyone being indifferent to this perfume... It is one of 'power' business perfumes (Prada Infusion D'Iris is the other one) i have in my collection. It imposes authority and oozes power and superiority, pure elegance, wealth, magnetism, confidence and it is ....well, it is 'liquid' boss in a bottle, if i can say so ha ha.... Strong in making a statement,indeed,- but very weak in longevity and silage. Only first 30 min-under 1 h it is present and u feel it around. But good thing, - easily to be re-sprayed without harming sensitive specimens around... If it had the monster sillage, - I would have bought it in liters for the years to come....But for the moment just having a standard bottle and a little 15 mil travel size ( for top-up :-) on occasions). It is presented as a UNISEX perfume.... I would say it would be more of a masculine type of aroma, unless u are a woman in charge...:-)) Superb, really- really top marks for this one!

In terms of the scent only, this is a perfect 10/10 masterpiece. It's a woody spicy and aromatic fragrance. It's very rare for me to be instantly intrigued by a fragrance but I was instantly attracted to the scent of this fragrance. The overall combination is very refined and masterfully created. I don't know how Elena picks notes for his works but it's magic. The addition of caraway in this fragrance is a game changer; it blends really well with other notes and gives an identity to the fragrance. To me, to create a scent like this, a perfumer should have not only technical skills but also artistic ability. However, the big negative point is the poor performance of the fragrance that is moderate longevity, and poor projection. I think Elena put all his skills into creating a great scent with the highest perfection. If the performance was slightly better, it would be really a gem. 8/10

Truly a stunning creation. I'm wondering how many people were not patient enough for the dry down on this one because the dry down is phenomenal. I rarely care for that much pepper in the opening but the pepper settles way down and you are eventually left with this light as air veil of heaven that I can't even describe. It doesn't smell like anything I have ever smelled. It doesn't even smell all that oaky or smokey or anything like I expected once it settles. It just smells beautiful. It smells elegant and earthy all at the same time. Seriously, Poivre Samarcande is phenomenal and I have not been able to stop sniffing myself ALL day. And it lasted ALL day on me from about 10am until about 7pm. I put on a tiny refresher dab at 7 it is now going on midnight and I still have my hand to my nose like a crackhead. I am not even a big Hermes fan normally but this stuff is fantastic.

I had to try this since I love wood and spice. It's very well made; soft, warm, and sensuous, subtle and unique. I think it's refreshing to have a fragrance without a hint of flowers in the composition. This wears very close to the skin on me. I would buy a bottle but it's so pricey that I'll have to stick with samples. Nonetheless it's a wonderful addition to my fragrance collection. I could wear this day or night and feel special yet appropriate for all occaisions. (I'm female but this would be great on a male too, of course) Later that day...WOW. I'm immoderately enamored of this scent. The addition of the paprika was inspired--a bit of heat is a great touch. The peppercorns here do not add much heat to this scent, just depth and character. LOVE IT, WANT MORE! (Must feed the fragrance addiction)

Jean-Claude Ellena does it again. An impressive fragrance and a great interpretation of pepper. I imagine myself walking through an oak wood forest after gathering ingredients (Pepper, Paprika, Cumin) for a meal. After noticing some of the fresh cut oak logs, I trip on one and drop my ingredients all over the place. The ingredients spill all over the cut logs. Poivre 23 is nowhere near as stunning as this. Not a loud projector, and it doesn't need to be. Not everything needs to be a beast, but it does last. I think this can be worn all year around, and would be particularly good in the spring time with the green aspect that is brings. Definitely more for the mature crowd. Well done by Mr. Ellena.

one of my favorites...just sort of sneaks up on you, a very discrete surprisingly more masculine scent to me.too bad it is so pricy..when you are spending this type of coin for a fragrance there are a lot to choose from, but for me this is very special. i really do love the way this smells just off a spray, you may shy away just due to price always a compliment getter for me. peppery and pleasing. very classy. and to me quite masculine in aroma. strong silent type mans scent. you will be noticed for being a step above the pack..excellent,, potent.. people will want to get close for a second sniff.. just love this one..

Wearing it today in the summer with heavy rainfall and one of our colder days of late. Inhaling deep sniffs while closing my eyes, it's so nice to have it on the back of my hand again. Needed something fitting the weather, and this scent I really like on moist, fresh days. Best overall Hermes scent to my nose, and there are some heavy-weights in that collection, even quite a few in mine. Probably not safe for the general public, seeing as so many are sensitive to the Caraway. I can't say I've noticed it more than on a couple of occasions myself. Even those times it was merely in passing.

An understated fragrance of pepper and a spicy wood. You love it when you first apply it. Then an hour later you wonder if it is there. Trust me it is there. I put it on after the morning shower, went to work. I thought it was gone by 11am. I went outside to my car for lunch, and suddenly I smelled the fragrance envelope me again. At the restaurant the server said, "you smell very nice, it smells expensive, what is it?" I go home at the end of the day and my wife says, wow! do you smell good, what is that? Gee, do I need to say anything more?

The only way I could afford this was as a set of travel bottles. This peppery wood fragrance oozes wealth and sophistication - it's almost an executive suite in a bottle! To my mind this is one of JCE's two masterpieces for men - the other being the sublime Terre. I can't help feeling that JCE has an ultimate pure woods fragrance in him that he hasn't unleased on the world yet- something so perfect that woods lovers everyone will break down in tears when they smell it. I know it's coming. Come on JCE - give us wood lovers a new masterpiece!

Just some musings on the note of cumin; It's used more often than you imagine, trace amounts are used by perfumers to replicate the animalic part of deer musk and yes, it accentuates our own intimate sweat. Ellena utilizes it generously in this and if it works with your body chemistry and appreciate the note, you'll love this. Sadly, many will never understand the attraction to cumin when used at a threshold like in Poivre.. When done well as in Ellena's works, in Diaghilev Roja, in Bois Mysterious Guerlain, it's really as good as it gets!

I agree with a review below- I really like it from first spray but can barely smell it after that. Maybe I'm someone who also has issues with iso e super. In any case, what I do smell is gorgeous. EDIT: After 2 years of owning it, I can see how others say it has a "B.O" smell. Cumin? It definitely has a hint of cumin somewhere underneath. Because of this I shy away from wearing it now because that's all I smell and I fear I might smell of sweat! Body chemistry is so important in wearing perfume and I guess this just doesn't work for me.

Got a sample from the extremely generous greenfaerie in a swap of Mandragore for Fracas (just love Fracas) Anyway, I dabbed a little on.....waited...and it Really bloomed into something unexpectedly wonderful in the warm weather. Pepper, spices, yes...but I got the creamiest incense out of it as well (refined, non-churchy incense) and the scent wafts closely to the skin but is very warming and sensual. I LOVE it. This one is more refined that the heavier frags I usually go for. Thanks Greenfaerie!

ive been having some fun trying out hermessence fragrances through their generous samples (tq hermes!) and already got myself ambre narguile and cuir dange, which are the best in the line in my opinion. but this one is probably the next in line - spicy but airy, its difficult to explain but what a wonderful scent this is! just when u think its disappeared completely from ur skin the airy pepperiness relurks and enchants u. i really2 like this a lot

"Once upon a time, a huge and beautiful oak tree grew in front of my house, blocking our view of the Mediterranean. Eventually it got sick and was cut down. The scent of the cut wood remained imprinted in my memory. The soul of the old tree lives in this fragrance. The name Samarcande is a tribute to the city through which spice caravans once passed on their journey from east to west." - Jean-Claude Ellena. I think there is nothing to add.