Hermessence Vetiver Tonka

"Elegant and sophisticated... an epitome of the modern gentleman." Vétiver Tonka is a 2004 fragrance from Hermès, and is one of the first fragrances to the exclusive Hermèssence line by Hermès' in-house perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena. This is another decant that I have from the French luxury brand, and is easily my favourite among the Hermèssence. Jean-Claude Ellena is no stranger in the perfume industry. He is one of the most prominent and respected perfumers in the modern perfume world and his fragrances have a distinctive signature which many have called it the "watercolour" effect: transparent, light, simple and there elegant. Vétiver Tonka is Ellena's take on the classic tobacco fragrance that conventionally caters to male users. There's something very distinguishable about Vétiver Tonka that sets itself apart from other fragrances of its kind. The main notes are tobacco, vetiver, tonka beans and hazelnut, the fourth note being something I only realised much later after using for some time. On my skin, it works exactly as how I had expected from a perfume by Ellena: transparent and elegant, the unmistakable "watercolour" effect. The tobacco is utterly smooth and refined, and blends seamlessly with the hazelnut-praline accords to make it deliciously gourmand. The vetiver is earthy, which is a very typical description, but at the same time, it's surprisingly clean and works well with the other notes. Because of its gourmand notes, I think it may also work for female users, especially those who are quietly confident and mature enough to take on it. Vétiver Tonka is an Eau de Toilette, and thus I can see it being worn at any time of the day and any season of the year. Ideally, because of its semi-dark notes and above-average sillage, I think it works best in the autumn followed by the winter. This is also a perfect scent to be worn daily in the office because of its lightness and subtlety. Vétiver Tonka is personally one of the first fragrances I smelled that made me learn about Ellena, and understand his talent in the art. It's the epitome of what a modern gentleman is: refined and mature, pleasant to the people around him and quietly confident of his own abilities. Unfortunately, I can't afford to get a full bottle because the price is too extravagant for me, as expected from the brand name. Alas, there's no denying how beautiful the fragrance really is and I offer my applause to Ellena for his masterpiece.

A wonderful, rich gourmand vetiver from the master, Jean-Claude Ellena. Of the Hermessence line from Hermés, this is the standout for me, along with Ambre Narguile and Agar Ebene. One of the principles of the Hermessence line I believe is to layer them; something I’m not necessarily a fan of doing as a rule & becomes quite an expensive prospect as they’re boutique exclusives but the above three work remarkably well in any combination. As for Vetiver Tonka, it seems to have, on my skin at least, the greatest longevity and projection of any in the line that I have tried but that being said, neither are enormous by any means but the sillage is fairly impressive it has to be said and I get a solid 6+ hour scent bubble. The sandalwood note and caramel accord create a wonderful buttery, creamy undertone that is accompanied by the sweet hazelnut & praline accord that is ever so slightly syrupy but not sickly. I originally thought that all that might be a bit much accompanying the Tonka but with the inclusion of light white florals, tobacco & the Vetiver being ever so slightly astringent here, they meld beautifully together and I find I can wear it on all but the hotter days. I also find, in my personal experience of this fragrance, that although it is relatively linear in its nature; you pretty much get everything at once, it is a bit of a shape-shifter dependant on the temperature & humidity, so from that perspective and if you’re a Vetiver lover, this one is pretty versatile, definitely unisex and has many uses in the fragrance wardrobe. It’s super classy and refined, doesn’t shout out loud but rather it asserts itself in an assured and confident manner that will set you apart in a room, as it’s that intriguing. I also have to say that in the deep dry-down, despite the relative linear nature of the fragrance, there is a beautiful richness where the tobacco really shows itself and combines beautifully with the Vetiver and a touch of the creamy hazelnut; it’s not loud but it really is quite stunning when you catch it. If there was a Love + button for this amazing fragrance, I’d be jabbing it furiously...... it’s just that wonderful.

For me, this varies between "decent" to a strong "love," and it's the scent that got me into the fragrance game. It hasn't been a crowdpleaser; I haven't gotten any unsolicited remarks about it, and when I've asked friends and family who aren't into fragrances at all, their expressions ranged from from neutral to furrowed brows ;) This may not as vetiver-y as one may expect, as the overall composition doesn't necessarily tend towards a deep, soil/earthy way, nor a bright, citrus-laced direction. It's a creamy, nutty, almost-sweet vetiver that's well-mixed with tonka... As the name suggests. To me it it doesn't "feel" green; it ranges from a violet-grey to light brown; likely me making connections to velvety and, at times, nutty imagery. It's certainly light and airy. The projection and longevity haven't been great in my experience: Low-moderate duration, low sillage. Especially for this one, testing it on paper certainly won't do it justice; you'll have to try it on skin. I particularly emphasize this because I've found the scent to be rather capricious to skin and environmental conditions, hence my wide range mentioned at the start. Sometimes it produces the light, soft, creamy wafts that I feel in love with, yet on some days it smells unpleasantly sour (actually, that's the only time this scent "feels" green to me...) In my experience I've found it to work best in cool, dry environments. For more accessible scents available today (Q4 2019), Bal d'Afrique, Vetiver Fatal, and Nuit de Megeve all have varying levels of similarity to this scent. All of these are nice too. I'd say Bal d'Afrique and Vetiver Fatal are more bright/wearable/feminine, while Nuit de Megeve is more similar in character to this. Regardless, I don't plan on getting rid of my Vetiver Tonka bottle.

I remember its smoothness--nothing is rough, pungent, or out of balance. Then there is the way that it seamlessly combines coolness and warmth without either quality losing its identity. This duality makes it wearable year round. It is gourmand, but light. Cereals, hay, dry vetiver, and mild tobacco keep the praline and hazelnut out of sticky-sweet territory, and give it an earthy feel. I'm surprised there aren't more female reviewers for this scent; to me it sits on the feminine side of unisex. For added warmth, it is luxurious with Ambre Narguile. To sharpen it, use with Poivre Samarcande. Though wonderful on its own, it is a versatile layer too. I remember reading that the scent was meant to evoke wool, and the wool in this imagination is not angora or cashmere but raw and soft, and meant for hugging shoulders. I will receive the fragrance in a few days, and of course I wonder how my memories compare. EDIT: I've now acquired a bottle, my first in years. Since I've worn this, I've begun wearing sweeter scents, which no doubt alters my experience of this one. The vetiver is so warm and clean and gentle here, and hovers above the sweet, faintly rich nuttiness. The tobacco note is more prominent than I remember, and might even prohibit me wearing it alone as I used to. Now my favorite way to wear it is under L'Ambre Des Merveilles. Do give this a try if you like smooth vetiver or tobacco fragrances.

I fall in love. You know how it happens when you fall in love with someone who was supposed to be the last person for that. You feel confused and embarrassed, cheking again and again: "It must be a mistake! It will be gone soon!" But it is not. "He is not mine.Too expensive. Not available here. It's just a caprice, you know, I am very unstable sometimes. There are better ones". Then I put it away. In few months: "Well, now I will come back to get sure how ugly and alien it is!" But it is not. I'm still in love. Hermessence Vetiver Tonka. I took a sample with curiosity and distrust. I don't like vetiver. Reading about the fragrance to know my love better, as it has already happened. Green woody - usually I don't like it. Tobacco... Oh my God! The most disgusting smell ever. Unisex - don't like. It smells like a man, but I am fascinated wearing it. You may say I'm old fashioned but I am not that girl wearing men perfume. Yes, I am out of trend but there are perfumes for men and for women (even if there are not my nose will specify them :) ). My new love is an exception. Very intellectual, noble and intense, serious and profound, with such a deep inner world. I'm not joking, it will become your psychoanalitic, go with him and you will know yourself better. I am telling you. P.S. The problem is that a sample lives a short life ...

Hermessence Vétiver Tonka is a masterpiece of balance signed by Jean-Claude Ellena. If you are looking for a perfume that redefines the concept of "vétiver", moving it away from classic earthy or excessively masculine interpretations, this is the ideal fragrance. A Masterful Contrast: The idea behind this fragrance is the combination of the vegetal roughness of vétiver and the velvety sweetness of tonka bean. The result is not a cloying gourmand perfume, but an airy, transparent and incredibly refined composition. As soon as you spray it, you can feel a slightly citrusy and green touch, typical of Ellena's minimalist style. A note of toasted hazelnut and cereal emerges which gives an almost "edible" but dry texture, very far from modern desserts. Tonka bean and blond tobacco soften the angular features of vétiver, transforming it into a caress of fine wool or cashmere. Vetiver Tonka is a texture fragrance. It does not "scream" its presence, but communicates elegance through the quality of the raw materials. It is the perfect perfume for those who: He finds classic vétiver too "old fashioned" or aggressive. Look for a unisex fragrance that is welcoming but professional. Appreciate the “less is more” aesthetic.

Vetiver tonka is simply amazing. Different from any other vetiver you have tried. It opens with smoky grassy traditional vetiver and then a little something almost sour - I believe it's the muguet in an indolic mode- comes in. A few minutes later the sharpness of the vetiver is covered in creamy praline caramel, smelling almost like burnt toast with caramel sauce. This part of the development is not my favorite- it's a bit "funky," at least it was on my skin. But the burnt vibe fades and some pretty tobacco and nutty notes come out to join and temper the sweetness a bit. The drydown is a beautiful smoky vetiver that is creamy and sweet at the same time. It seems like it would never work, this combination, but it is divine. This is a must try for every perfumista and for anyone who likes thinking "outside the box." This is outside the stratosphere but in a beautiful other worldly way. For a truly amazing combination, try Iris Ukiyoe on your arms and Vetiver Tonka on the backs of your hands. You would think they would clash, but there is some of that Jean-Claude Ellena magic in both of them that makes this a true feast for the senses.

Love this. Bought it years ago and let it sit. I'm not a big fan of what I've learned are referred to as 'gourmand' fragrances, but one day I took a chance and gave myself a spray before I left for work. Thought I was tolerating it at first, didn't expect much, but by mid afternoon I sensed an evolution to the fragrance, it unfolded again and again, and I was able to pick elements out as I had never before been able to. It was a pandora's box of of elegance, it became more beautiful by the minute. The next day,( and the next ), I could still smell it on the clothing it had come into contact with. Years passed and it was gone. Recently I bit the bullet and purchased a 15ml bottle, even that a little pricey for my covid budget,( I've been out of work since March ). It's my intoxication, I'm in love all over again. The only difference with the first 15 ml is that it doesn't seem to last quite as long, but it's the only go-to that I have when I'm feeling stressed and unhappy, and with recent personal losses and caring for my partner with dementia, that's been a lot, lately. I wish you all health and happiness in the new year!

In my opinion this is exactly what Terre d'Hermes should've been, by the same perfumers no less. The vetiver is coarse, foresty and animalistic, creating a strong and interesting accord with the tonka. Aiding this is a deep if somewhat rough bed of nuts and spicy tobacco, with hints of sweetness and citrus in wisps. An odd sweetness appears from the tonka, aided by the praline, forming a roundness in the vetiver-dominant scent. Vetiver and Tonka is quintessentially masculine without the melodrama or excess of many men's fragrances. This scent is serious but not dark or overtly formal, avoiding the errant sexuality of many modern men's fragrances, more like the early-30s owner of a bourbon distillery than a count at a ball. It garnered some massive compliments from my partner a bit further than an arm's length away, but overall it tends to invoke more of a reaction of interest than attraction, which I'm definitely appreciative of.

This is one fragrance I pretty much can not live without. I am a huge vetiver lover. I am so very much in love with this one that I have been reordering it for about 9 years now. The first time I "met" this fragrance was at work. I had a meeting with a new client and she walked in and she was a pure class, elegant and beautiful lady. I went as far as asking her what fr. she was wearing and it was VT. The next time we met she brought back 2 bottles from NY with her for me. :) I never ran out since then. I smells clean and warm to me at the same time. Never fail to get compliments and my husband - loves it. One thing that I am sad about it does not last very long on me at ALL...3-4 hours and it's gone. I go through this like it is water. I just recently discovered Sycomore and I have to say..it might be new love for me. VT is definitely more girly with that tonka bean coming through.

My heart skips a beat every time I catch a whiff of this! It's that sweet, slightly salty tonka that does it. I get exactly the same feeling from Byredo's Bal D'Afrique, but Vetiver Tonka is smokier, heavier, stronger... I feel aroused and seduced! The unisex ambiguity is provoking and challenging, but in a gooooooood way. One spritz on my wrist lasted ALL DAY which I think is amazing considering that this is an EDT. Lasts longer and has much better projection than many EDPs I've known. In fact, if I wear more than a couple of spritzes it can bring on a headache, which tends to happen to me with heavy vanilla- or tonka-based fragrances. Sublime, I love it. I'd wear it all the time if my man were a little more enthusiastic about it!

As good as it is light (very good, but very light). Genius combination of notes: soft tonka & smokey vetiver over smooth sandalwood, and lightly sweetened with nuttiness. It would have so much potential if only it were stronger. It's a savoury sweet eau fraiche. Decent longevity, but it's so light that you almost need to know what you're looking for in order to detect it. It's almost like a subliminal message to one's nose.The scent itself gives me the same vibes as Maison Violet's Un Air d'Apogee (also an earthy tobacco, except instead of vetiver it's hay and instead of tonka it's iris) - Un Air D'Apogee has much better performance. Vetiver Tonka is a good option to wear on an airplane, or to a scent-free work environment. Unisex.

On colder days, Vetiver Tonka comes straight out as Tobacco Caramel. Fortunately, with temperatures increasing great changes do take place- becoming far more complex, smooth and utterly attractive. Overall VT acts as a refined gourmand. The most prominent note, tobacco is fine, dry and aromatic, and brilliantly well paired with the sweetness of pralinee and the freshness of lily. Moderately warm, chilly and humid weather brings out the full richness in VT- adding layers of deepness and creaminess, reaching almost delectable character. Projection is decent and lasts all day. Though in a way that bottle is a challenge to me, I think it is a very elegant and thoroughly refined creation, and even more attractive when worn by a man.

From the whole Hermessence line, this one is my absolute favorite, together with rose ikebana. Such an enveloping, smoky hazy Vétiver tonka scent. It’s not a bright, happy fragrance, it represents more the deep, complex emotions. Life. I can’t characterize it as sweet neither. It sits pretty close to the skin: it’s a kind of an inner circle perfume, but it’s very long lasting: a couple of sprays in the morning will last me until I shower late at night. It’s definitely unisex and if you’re into the sweetness/flowers, you probably won’t like it. I don’t have any lily of the valley/praline/hazelnut on me, just the vetiver, tonka and incense, in a beautiful twisted combination. One of a kind.

A ultra green, sappy, young and tangy vetiver shows to its best advantage against an almost gourmand background of cushy, soft, nutty pillowy benzoin. This is gorgeous. I loved it on myself as a woman and think it would be equally good if not better on a man. It will have people wanting to smell more as it has an addictive, interesting quality created by the polarity of the ingredients. It’s linear, you smell all of the ingredients almost at once and as it ages the base notes become a little bit stronger but everything stays in basically the same balance. And it lasts absolutely forever, more than 12 hours, pretty unusual for one of these Hermessences.

Same as everything in this world where there is bad most of the time good is just around the corner I tested a few fragrances from this line and a lot of them albeit being of high quality usually the weakness of the performance destroys the experience But not with this one it’s a scent that is so balanced you just keep sniffing it with amusement Just thinking about how harsh can vetiver be and how sweet other notes in this frag such as praline,caramel,Tonka the way JCE made them work in harmony together is a sight to behold Performance is good Don’t sleep on this it’s one in this line that actually deserves the price

Yet another masterpiece from Ellena. This fragrance takes two notes, vetiver and tonka bean, that I wouldn't expect to work well together, but it is blended to perfection. It provides a wonderful balance of earthy and sweet, while still having an inoffensive, mass appeal quality. I think this works well on a man or woman, ages 25+ and can be worn year round. This can also be worn any occasion, but I tend to wear it casually during the day when it's a bit cooler outside. Performance is very solid lasting 8 hours or so, with above average projection. Overall, a brilliant composition and a must-have for me. 9/10

Vetiver Tonka starts off very woody and slightly smoky (think of a way better Aventus smoky vibe). And I got a very very slight hint of citrus, which reminded me of TdH. Pretty nice opening. But the magic really happens once the sweetness and nuttiness comes in. I didn't get much tonka like the name implies but I did get this roasted nuts smell with a bit of sweetness. Not too sweet, which is perfect for my taste. I love it because it's sexy, sophisticated, and very classy. It's masculine and it fits my personality. Lasts a good 8hrs on my skin. A vetiver masterpiece from Jean-Claude Ellena.

Genius play on vetiver. The mineralic, rooty aspects are there and somehow transformed into a praline-type accord with ethyl maltol, tonka bean, and some lily of the valley type aroma chemicals. Those notes combined bring to mind the tobacco-like feel of Guerlain's vetiver, but skewed even more modern and universal. This, to me, gets props for straddling a lot of different lines...it feels free of gender associations, it's accessible yet offbeat...sweet and "easy on the nose" while also not losing the herbal, dirty, and rooty facets of vetiver. An early and persistent niche fragrance love.

Vetiver forward fragrances, upon first spray are generally beautifully uplifting & vibrant. I regularly find myself craving that bright opening feeling but it’s in the dry down where things become problematic. I am trapped in a sharp, harsh and distinctly masculine scent cloud that is almost always impossible to scrub off. Vetiver lasts! This is my only exception. It dries down immaculately and lasts for hours. Vetiver Tonka is elegant, balanced and expertly blended. It is unisex and in my opinion the perfect vetiver. The only one I will ever need 10/10