Parfum d'Hermes

Another masterpiece but discontinued scent by Hermes. Classic green floral with an woody ambery base. Metallic but warm and a little bitter. Hiacynth and rose whith a bold shadow of galbanum. Also you can feel aldehydic notes in that. It reminds me of Guerlain Chamade, they really have same green floral phase. . ایده ی عطار های این شاهکار ریموند چیلان و اکیکو کامِی ساخت عطری در اوج کیفیت بوده تا بتونه نمایانگر شکوه مزون هرمس در سرتاسر جهان باشه. . فضای کلی رایحه سبزِ گلی و تلخ هست با زمینه ادویه ای چوبی و روکش ظریفی از جنس فلز! پیچیده و چند وجهی... . رایحه ای فلزگون احتمالاناشی از وجهه ی متالیک گل رز به همراه باریجه شروعی سبز، فلزی و نسبتا تلخ رو برای عطر رقم میزنن. سنبل هم از همین ابتدا با حضور پررنگش سعی میکنه حس خیس و نمناک گلیش رو به رایحه القا کنه و شاید بیراه نباشه اگه بگیم کمی هم حس متالیک عطر رو تشدید میکنه. . رز نقش مهمی رو در ساختار این عطر بازی میکنه اما سبک بوش اینجا کمی متفاوته. نه گلاب ماننده نه شیرین و میوه ای. بنظرم بیشتر سبز، فلزی و گس هست. . رفته رفته آلدهیدِ صابونی زنگارِ فلزی رایحه رو تمیز و متعادل میکنه و گل ها از پشت حصار فلزیِ تاپ نت آزاد میشن و لطافت و شیرینی گلیشون در کنار باریجه که همچنان تلخ و سبز یکه تازی میکنه فضای باطراوت باغ گل رو یادآوری میکنه. اما کماکان چارچوب فلزی کمرنگی دور رایحه وجود داره. . برگ برنده ی پارفوم دو هرمس از طرفی منحصر به فرد بودن رز خونین عطر و حس سبز فلزی اون درترکیب با رایحه تلخ و خاکی گالبانوم هست و از طرفی تزریق اکسیری چوبی ادویه ای صمغی به پیکره ی این ترکیب سبز ... . چوب و ادویه جات دست به دست صمغ های تلخ و شیرین پس زمینه ی رایحه رو به زیبایی رنگ آمیزی میکنن و به اون عمق و غنا میدن. این زیرلایه ی گرم و نرمِ چوبی صمغی ادویه ای باعث ایجاد هاله ای بالزامیک و رزین مانند در اطراف عطر میشه. . درمجموع نت های عطر خیلی شاخص نیستن بلکه ما با ترکیب بسیار غنی و متراکمی روبه رو هستیم که نمیشه در یک نگاه موادش رو از هم تفکیک کرد و فقط به یک خانواده بویایی نسبتش داد. بین کارهای کلاسیک هم مشابه های زیادی نداره اما خب کمی یاد آور عطر شمد از گرلن هست. . ضمنا خود برند هم در سال ۲۰۰۰ میلادی، در شیشه ای مشابه اما بارنگ قرمز و با نام "روژ" اقدام به بازتولید این عطر کرد که نسخه جدید شباهت بسیار زیادی به جد بزرگوارش داره.

What is Parfum d’Hermès? A hybrid oriental chypre, the same family as Dioressence. This 1984 release, by Akiko Kamei, who never really had many perfumes credited to her, and Raymond Chaillan has more depth and more twists and turns than the notes might make you believe. Chamade comes to mind immediately after application. That rich hyacinthine powder with galbanum that translates as spicy and sweet at the same time is turned up to 11. It smells of proper perfume. What many describe as French. This ‘Frenchness’ is more apparent in the heart, where it follows a similar path as Calèche with strokes of rose, jasmine, ylang, iris...it is however far more intense, baroque and luxurious. As an 80’s release, it turns the volume up, adding also to the mix a clove-y spiced orange without falling into Xmas pomander territory. The longer drydown marries oakmoss with myrrh and resins, balsams and slivers of animal notes. Its cocooning as any oriental, with the stature and pose of a good chypre. It’s woody thanks to a fatty Mysore sandalwood. It’s richly hued, specks of leather and some herbs enriching the mossy base. It’s a forest floor where mushrooms grow. PdH is boudoir where Calèche is horse riding. It’s extravagant where Calèche is prim and proper. It’s very much unique, as this oriental chypre genre never evolved much beyond Dioressence, which was far more herbal. It has the glow of nitromusks of yore, though by the 80’s they were practically banned everywhere. That same feral growl of good ol Chanel N°5 cologne, where the animalic notes reign supreme. It’s got that same feel of smelling Miss Dior, Chamade, K de Krizia and, from modern creations, Mito and Dryad. It’s a powdery aldehyde, enveloping the green and purple to give us a new shade of green that is as plush as a shag carpet! I truly find it the best Hermès. I’m also happy that Hermès omitted mentioning it in the same sentence as Barénia in the marketing. The two could not be more different.

There is something measured about Parfum d'Hermes. In comparison to its ilk during its release, it slinks, its strokes, its glistens, but doesn't command. It's quite polite, actually, but by no means is it unremarkable. It's most salient features are its gentle sparkle of aldehydes, its flirting with the verdant without actually jumping into the bushes, and the rose and iris which forms its cadre. There is just a bit of fatty ylang ylang serving as flesh to their bones. It may at first fool you into thinking its some gossamer veil after its opening, but the unctuous myrrh and powdered iris moves forward a bit later in development, yet it behaves deliberately. I do appreciate how the bitter galbanum of its opening melds into the bittersweet myrrh of the dry down, something I haven't recalled encountering elsewhere. It's warm, woody, and restrained in its base, only suggesting a feral shade. It gives me the same sense of studied splendor as Guerlain Parure or Lorenzo Villoresi Alamut. My Hermés archive is now complete!

smell Iris almost all the way through this one. Which is a good thing; I love iris. I get a lot of hyacinth in the opening, along with a bit of bergamot, and something that makes it sparkle. That might be the aldehydes. The middle of this is gorgeous. Powdery, sweet iris. It always makes me think of candied violets, and reminds me of the smell of my Meteorites powder. If I had to compare it to something, I'd say it reminds me a bit of Givenchy Le De, although this one is more floral and that one is more powdery. The drydown is nice too. I get a lot of incense, and a bit of amber. I agree with the reviewer who said that the top seems out of balance with the rest of the perfume. The top seems younger and fresher to me, but it's such a lovely scent overall that I don't mind.

D'Hermes was created in 1984 by Raymond Chaillan and Akiko Kamei. Bursting by oily balsamic myrrh rose and hyacinth, aldehydes dipped in galbanum, obviously-older brother of Hermes Rouge, for most of people these two might seem to be the twins....Nevertheless First and immediate reaction from that resinous myrrh in d'Hermes is Caron Sacre. While in Hermes Rouge you quite fascinated by Samsar-ish rich flowing sandal. Rouge dustier, louder, woodier, d'Hermes more rosy and incens-y Also if to go for simples – Rouge is sweeter – parfum d'Hermes saltier from aldehydes and amber. That's if to bring d'Hermes to point of parallelism and to show what is different for those, who interested to know. I can't say which one I love more though, just happy to own both now.