Apercu

Apercu and the Last Days of Oakmoss To the reviewer below me, yes, this is chockchockchock full of oakmoss (but I disagree that there is nothing more.) In fact, if you are searching for a true oakmoss/chypre perfume I would pick this up--in a few years I'm sure this will no longer be available, as it was d/c'd a long time ago. I am surprised that Houbigant would try to resurrect something like this as late as 2000. Apparently the original Apercu was first created in 1925--who knows how close it is to the original? It does remind me a little of Mitsouko (1919) so maybe the Houbigant perfumer liked Mitsouko and decided to put his own spin on it? All I know is that this is a heady, woody, spicy, dense fragrance, totally unlike anything released even in 2000. Apercu (pronounced Ah-pear-sooh, I had to look that one up as I have zero background in French) is a perfume loaded up primarily with basenotes and spices: Oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, cinnamon, clove, resins, and smoke. When I describe what this smells like, keep in mind that those notes are the dominant ones, and the other notes are merely the supporting cast. The opening gives way to a smooth green apple + bergamot, that gets a little greener as time goes on, the florals come out after the apple fades off, first demure white florals, then a very sultry, red rose and geranium. The rose + geranium is very velvety and rich and lasts for several hours. Also during the wear I can smell something like smouldering campfire coals along with wispy smoke. Keeping up with the outdoor woods accord is the patchouli that for several hours smells like 100% dirt. Loamy forest soil covered with crushed autumn leaves, but dirt nonetheless. The really amazing thing about Apercu is the way it wears-- it's not loud at all. Even though it is loaded up with super heavy notes, it really wears fairly quietly, the sillage is pretty light, I think this could be worn anywhere. However, it lasts a full 12 hours with 2 or 3 sprays, and I have no trouble smelling it on myself, which is nice. I hate when I can't smell my own perfume properly. I love love this, Apercu is a true spicy/floral chypre and probably the last perfume of its kind. I adore the smell of oakmoss and woods and dark flowers and spicy resins and autumn, I just started wearing this perfume and it has become one of my favorites. This had no time to be reformulated because it was discontinued soon after its release, so the bottles you find will all be the original formula. For those who do love Mitsouko or Aromatics Elixir you may love Apercu, too. This is why after all these years I still like to test perfumes, in hopes that I will bump into something exactly like this.

Apercu opens sharply, mostly cinnamon and powdery green. It's warm, spicy, and dry. I get a musty aspect initially, but it's faint and dissipates quickly. I catch a whiff of citrus as well, bringing to mind a dried orange studded with cloves. In the heart, blossoms develop and Apercu changes from a sophisticated, spicy chypre to one that is simply wonderful. The warm spices and bitter greens balance like a waltzing couple. Florals harmonize sweetly in the background. (They stepped forward when I drank a cup of jasmine tea while wearing it.) At first glance, Apercu is so pointedly cinnamon and spice that "Overview" doesn't seem like a good name. However, once the dominant notes settle into a melody, it is a wrist sniffer, not to decipher and appreciate note by note, but to savor as a whole. The overview is where the pleasure of Apercu lies. It is a masterful composition. It's also definately a wintry scent; when I sampled it in the summer it was suffocating. Thank you Fragranticans; I've never seen this in a store and bought it blind based on descriptions here. It is wonderful. Apercu has prominent green notes, but it's a red-brown fragrance. I'm reminded of 'Killing the Blues': Leaves are falling Just like embers In colors red and gold They set us on fire... Sillage and longevity are both good. A couple of spritzes will last all day. As the day progresses the scent gets better, sweeter, more intimate, less formal.

Review is of parfum concentration, teardrop shaped bottle with a red tassle, the one currently available from discounters. Apercu is a classic-style oakmoss-y chypre so beautiful, so widely available, and so inexpensive that I can't understand why it doesn't get more attention from lovers of Mitsouko or Rochas Femme. It is very much in that same family of fragrances, a spicy chypre for cooler weather. Dare I write it's even easier to wear than those two classics? It is! Apercu's development moves from a tender bud-like green opening (nothing sharp or galbanum-y here) through floral notes to dry down to a deep, spicy oakmoss. It ends up in a place somewhat similar to Mitsouko, only its starting point is even further removed than Mitsouko's is. This long development never has an awkward or harsh moment. It is soft and graceful throughout. The version available at discounters now is a year 2000 re-release of a much older fragrance. This version went into production and was discontinued shortly before IFRA's restrictions on oakmoss went into effect. All the more reason for Apercu to deserve attention from chypre lovers: the bottles available now are still fresh and have intact topnotes along with an abundance of oakmoss. Not many chypres on the market can boast the same.

I was a dormant fraghead till recently. Everytime I went in the forest I picked a piece of oakmoss and rubbed it between my fingers. That's something I would smell 24/7 in huge quantities if I could, it's so highly addictive! Reading about oakmoss here I found out about chypres and decided to start collecting lots of them (mostly vintages and niche ones) This is the first perfume I bought for my collection. It is absolutely divine! It's been an hour since I applied it on my left wrist. My oakmoss is there from the beginning, same strength! At first I noticed the tuberose and a slight hint of citrus and my darling oakmoss. Now I detect ylang-ylang and my oakmoss. Will see how it goes and update my review. Such elegance! A toned down, mature sexyness that covers wild things. You must fight for her a bit, she's certainly not an easy one! L.E. 3 hours after I can still smell it. It faded just a tiny bit, but it's not yet a skin perfume. I get my oakmoss and the sandalwood. 9 hours after , still on my wrist, subtle skin scent but not going anywhere :-) Good stuff , really good stuff. Next day it's still there as a skin scent :-) There's life before Aperçu and life after Aperçu!

A uniquely satisfying fragrance, and I am not as fond of Chypre fragrances in general as I once was. I have and wear Profumo by Acqua di Parma and also Parure by Guerlain. I do see the resemblance and these three could be siblings. But Apercu has I think more cinnamon which I even find sexy. Tingling and rich. All three are incredibly beautiful fragrances with a hint of melancholy (which does not detract from their fascinating beauty) like late afternoon sun through a stained glass window in a room with glowing dust particles. There is something softly sparkling to Apercu...it keeps me coming back and I find it more wearable than the other 2 mentioned here, and I find myself reaching for Apercu more often to spray a bit on to try and understand it. A true grand perfume for everyday use...

A deep, rich, gorgeous spicy chypre. Released in 2000, I've loved it since it first came out. Back then I was part of a small online group of perfume lovers from across the US. It was wonderful for me because that's how I learned about fragrance beyond what I saw behind the counters. One of the ladies in that helpful group introduced me to Apercu. Most people would think this is a mature scent. I love how it seems to tilt from sweet to dry, it seems to be in an area between the two where depending on the circumstances, it could move between. I also note, as have a few other reviewers here, some comparison to Mitsouko. I have and enjoy both but I prefer Apercu: it's more lively and I love the cinnamon/clove in this, it's like the happier cousin of Mitsouko. One of my all-time favorites.

Quelle surprise! I got a sample of this almost as an afterthought as I did not know much about it. Tried it today, and fell in love. Chypre is my favorite group, and this one would make an excellent addition to the collection. If I had to choose one word, I would describe this fragrance as balanced. In the vial, there is a bitter scent that dissipates immediately on the skin. Lightly floral without sweetness, a light citrus-green tone, with a warm spiciness. A little of everything and rather than being a mish-mash, it is a luscious, sensuous yet somehow light fragrance that stays fairly close to the skin, and has very reasonable longevity. Glad I tried it!!

I agree completely with the reviewers who say that this is a fragrance that performs best in cooler, wet weather. It comes alive on a misty fall day. It does remind me of both Mitsouko and Aromatics Elixer, but does not smell like either one, if that makes any sense. It is probably the combination of florals, oak moss, a touch of herbals and spice (cinnamon?), And a little bit of unidentified fruit? It is not gourmand at all, and a bit old-fashioned and musky in a good way. A bit like opening an old purse and smelling a mix of powder, lipstick, and perfume from elegant evenings long ago. Lovely!

Love love LOVE this, it is loaded with oakmoss and not sweet, yet there is a deep spiciness to it as well. I have to think that it is pretty good reinterpretation of the original. This is probably the last decent Houbigant scent before the house fell into the hands of yet another company that does not care about the greatness it once had. This house is only a name now, very sad. Get this and Demi-Jour in their original older versions if you love oakmoss. Apercu is a wear everywhere, always proper type of scent, yet it's not like the mass marekt scents of today. A classic!

I realize that this also reminds me of an "alternate universe" Femme de Rochas, the fruit is toned down in Apercu and the whole thing even feels, dare I say, more graceful. Yes, both are elegant, but I feel Apercu is more graceful and floaty while Femme is more animated and gesticular. The cinnamon is particularly satisfying in Apercu, dusting the ripe fruit above hints of the earthiness that the fruit grew in.

A powerhouse!! Aperçu is a spicy, earthy green chypre with a lasting kick. A little goes a long way. Standout notes are cinnamon, tuberose, cloves, oakmoss, sandalwood, and patchouli. If this perfume was an opera, it would be Aida: "Ritorna vincitor!"

Amazing fragrance!!! It is dry, spicy with moderate sweetness. I feel clove from the start and even suspected pepper here. This composition is so pleasant to my nose, that, I think, I could die happily sniffing Apercu:)

A deep resinous fragrance, elegant and refined. It's not for those who love sweet fruit cocktails, this is a haunting, woody, spicy concoction. I note some comments comparing it with Mitsouko - more of a Mitsouko layered with L'Interdit I would suggest. This is priced mid range, and I think it's quite a bargain for such a classic vintage lady, eminently wearable with good lasting power.

a female oak moss. evocation of faded black and white memories. a reflective perfume. almost dreamy, opulent, mysterious, an innovative chypre, spicy, soapy, dandy. definitely unisex on the bottom. but it is a very demanding perfume. 6.5 / 10 excellent performance. not wear over 20°C

I have to say that I just don't get along with this scent and I've tried wearing it several times. The colors rust and brown come to mind instead of green. The top is pure acetone turning to a cinammon and oakmoss combination which feels very heavy. The first 5-10 minutes, I sniff it skin close it actually smells good with a distinct touch of clove. But after an hour of wear I find myself wrinkling my nose and asking "what the heck is that dank smell?" The sillage is pervading and everlasting, a dark and too spicy cloud that seems to follow me around and bring down my whole day. I wish I could appreciate it but the smell reminds me more of a musty home that's been closed up for many years with no air, dusty baked goods sitting on the counter and a slow water leak, than a beautiful fragrance. In short, it just smells horrible on my skin and I won't be wearing it.

Stunning, elegant and refined. The vintage feel makes it beautiful and it takes you back to when fragrances were more than just fruity. Definately worth testing.

Ugh, the ugliest chypre. All oakmoss and nothing more. Hate it.

I don't know what it is about this fragrance! It reminds me of Mitsouko (?) did I spell that correctly by Guerlain. This is not very sweet not floral and one might even call it unisex and it is most assuredly a chypre and a green but it's so nice. It has a mysterious autumnal air. Smells like a forest in the fall. Green grass, brown leaves, golden leaves, red leaves, yellow leaves. This is a greener and woodsier version of Quelques Fleurs which is all florals. This is throws up a lot of green notes that border on smelling like pure grass and oak moss in the way that Chanel No. 19 can do. It is mature and hard to pull off in the wrong season. Wear this in the fall and winter. It matches up with scarves and coats. Smells great in the rain! When it's been in the rain it smells like wet earth and wet tree leaves. There is a medicinal and tea like scent in the first spritz. Tea is not listed as one of the notes but I find it similar to the lemon tea aura of Mitsuoko. Mitsouko is very citric and here we have the same kind of top notes. A zesty lemon and a fragrant neroli. O my good that opening is to die for. Once the citrus disappears I get a jasmine flower and not much else. A very lovely but shy jasmine, perhaps a bit of ylang and either a very faint rose or geranium. There is also tuberose but it is as silent as the jasmine. This is not as floral as a traditional floral fragrance. It couldn't be. It is not the spring time. It is the fall. The scent evolves quickly into all the greenery of green moss. Some patchouli herbal leafy scents. There's spices thrown into the mix like cinnamon and some earthy scents of cloves and woods. Very lovely. Spicy. Green. Aromatic. Gorgeous fall fragrance. This perfume is not very well known and I'm surprised that some people have worn it and reviewed it. This is not going to be a big statement fragrance but it does come off as mature. If you want to wear it to a public place in the autumn it would smell great in church or cathedrals. This is also a unisex scent. The flowers are barely there and its mostly green notes, moss and wood. This can be worn successfully by a male who has experience with green chypres. This is a beautiful fragrance and it would smell great on my upcoming camping trip with my friends from Nashville. I am so enchanted with this perfume. Thanks Fragrantica

From its most fitting description on my sample sleeve: "Aperçu...a passing glance ...an awakening of a distant memory ...a glimpse of overt beauty still concealed, tantalisingly undisclosed." Incredible. I'm mentally convinced it arrived here through a time machine. You'd never guess it was from 2000; though yes, sources say the original formula was from 1925, lost to time until this formulation. A heady, ambery sandalwood and oakmoss stand out to me, while the equally intoxicating ylang-ylang and geranium (thought it was rose at first) play beneath the waves. The cinnamon is light. No dizzying white bouquets, nor is it sweet and sassy. The drydown appears to remind me of milled sandalwood-rose soap; the oakmoss and clove providing the final moments of earthy depth - never musky. There's also something about it that reminds me of the old-fashioned, perfumed lingerie, like a spicy flower-scented sachet one would tuck into their wooden dresser drawers. I expected Aperçu to be more "green" in notes and color, and to be more blunt and unisex like my beloved Replique. Instead, it matches a mild color of amber or terracotta; and there is a somewhat indelicate femininity to Aperçu. Unlike Mitsouko, it doesn't evoke a beautifully dusky, forlorn, powder-peach aristocrat. But like Mitsouko, it evokes for me strong, wistful, long-lost memories. These memories happen to be uncovered from great-grandma's rosy wooden chest - but who's complaining? It seems so personal and special. I only wonder if the original was truly lost in the 1920s, so it was never manufactured during its time; I can imagine the subtle popularity this would've had in the 1930s and 1940s. I truly believe this would've been some unnamed wife's perfume, that she wore for dinner-dance nights, and later dotted on her stationery before sending a letter off to her faraway soldier. Or perhaps, she holds letters that never got to be sent. No sexiness or impishness with Aperçu, in my opinion. Yet there's no demureness either. She's "historical." She's a quieter, grounded, unsung glamour.

After re-reading the reviews from others, I know that I have to try this one again because spicy is definitely not a word that I would have used to describe it. I had to wait several months before really trying this one because I could tell right off that it was a cold weather scent and I bought it in the spring. I applied it in a hurry, someone was coming and I wanted to have something/anything on. Around 2 hours later I remembered that I was wearing it . . . but it had almost completely disappeared from my skin! And this is an EDP! I will try again and if I have a more favorable reaction, I will edit this post. Completely forgot about this one until it was mentioned in a thread on chypres. It starts out smelling wonderfully old fashioned on me!! If it was reformulated when reintroduced in 2000, they did not change it much at all!! I can easily imagine this being very popular in 1925. So many wonderful chypres were first introduced early last century. Alas, once again it disappeared in around an hour. I tried to check the batch code, but couldn't find any site that worked. As much as I love classic chypres, this one just isn't right for me.