Cologne Intense

The nose behind the new masculine fragrance by Houbigant, Cologne Intense is Luca Maffei. He is a young nose in the fragrance industry that is making a name for himself with such stunning fragrances as Perris Monte Carlo’s Oud Imperial and Rose de Taif. What he has created in Cologne Intense is something brilliant bold and breathtaking. The presentation of the fragrance which comes in both Eau de Parfum and Extrait Parfum is classically elegant. The 100 mil bottle is the same sophisticated masculine bottle that was created for Houbigant’s 2010 re-release of the exquisite Fougere Royale from 1882. The juice is darker in Cologne Intense which only adds a golden richness to the presentation. Just as the No.5 bottle is used for other perfumes by Chanel so it is that Houbigant is presenting this release in the same bottle as Fougere Royale. This smart marketing gives a certain instant house recognition. You see the bottle and you know the house at once. Class and sophistication are assured. The parfum is classified as a citrus aromatic. I agree, it opens with sharp crisp summer freshness of Sicilian lemons, a bitter bite of Calabrian bergamot which sparks brilliantly on the skin then gives way to the wonderful green petitgrain and Moroccan neroli. It is a show of green citrusy skyrockets that shimmer as they rise and sparkle as they fall way to reveal the center of this fragrance. Here the heart in this classic tarragon takes the center stage. It is richly blended into a complex dance with red pepper, a touch of lavender, and a whiff of Indian Jasmine. Oh that Jasmine is nice if subtle, as it should be. And the pepper is sharp adding depth to the tarragon and lavender. I love the middle of this fragrance but my love turns to obsession when we reach the dry down. Here in the bottom notes I find a fine and creative blend by Luca Maffei that make this a truly memorable release of 2015. The two magical notes he introduces to the fragrance are a bitter Mat Tea and lush deep and hypnotic incense. The effect with the fading mid notes is sheer olfactory heaven. On my skin the it lasts between 6 and 7 hours and the sillage is at about 18 inches. Cologne Intense is one of my top favorite releases of last year. It is a beautiful addition to the venerable and historic house of Houbigant that is both a tip of the hat to past classics, an era of refinement and grace but also embodies a youthful modern vibe. [FOR THE REST OF THE STORY INSPIRED BY THIS FRAGRANCE BE SURE TO CHECK OUT MY BLOG SCENTS MEMORY]

Houbigant released a truly remarkable composition in Cologne Intense in that it seeks out the refined, fastidious nose with its whimsical classicism merged with emergent modernism. However, it is far beyond that, as evidenced from reading through the mixed reviews that run the gamut from adulation to revulsion. Well, I can think of some other masterpieces which I love dearly that share this polarity: Guerlain's Jicky and Mouchoir de Monsieur, Eau d'Hermes, Kouros, Rochas Moustache Concentree, even Diptyque's L'Autre. It's because they all juxtapose the clean and dirty, the sacred and profane, the botanical and animal, and I think this has its appeal to those who know that beauty is molded from shadows and light. Cologne Intense opens with all the sharp and sweet drama of a citrus aromatic; juicy, leafy, tart, sweet, even oily, announcing itself in a radiant arc from the skin. No sooner than this delicious bravado wafts do the elements that make Cologne Intense fall into play: a surprisingly indolic jasmine combined with somewhat anisic tarragon and pink pepper create an accord with dusty lavender that is profoundly intriguing to my nose. I am stirred further when I soon am met with the a bit of the must and civet-like undertones coming from the base (perhaps a synergy between bitter, earthy mate and the terpenic elements from the olibanum resin for which the incense note seems comprised. I find this effect to be very sexy. All of this swirls decadently into an eventual sensual simmer on the skin, while still retaining the spirit of aromatic cologne from days of yore (though I must point out that this is far more substantive as well, its longevity is formidable). What can I say? I think it's brilliant in its bold defiance on both classic and modern convention, and surely this was the reason that it wasn't at all commercially successful, but as we diehard fragheads know, that is in no way a metric for quality olfactory art. This is high art, actually, and high art is seldom ever mass-appealing...

This is a surprising scent. It’s really two scents crashed together, and in a way that I found intriguing. I absolutely love it. Some scents - many scents - just “smell nice” and they are bought so people smell nice. Nothing wrong with that. This perfume smells amazing - but is for people who are on some sort of “scent journey” rather than people who want the proverbial “easy grab”. It starts as a straightforward traditional cologne with a masculine citrus thing going on, a little reminiscent of YSL Pour Homme. And this remains throughout. Then there is the other, earthier scent. I’m not going to call it maté because I don’t know what that smells like - and nor, I’ll wager, do any of the 83 people who have voted it as the dominant note. This earthy scent kind of grips me on the inside (I loathe poncy perfume reviews, so I’m trying to be straightforward), and almost feels like it’s emerging from the body into the nose. I’m contrasting this experience with smelling a normal, current masculine fragrance, like the oud-forward Amouage Jubilation. Smelling that feels like sniffing a chemical on the surface of something, whereas the Houbigant somehow... I dunno. “Comes from within.” It provokes a bigger range of thoughts and experiences. But be aware - this is an earthy, organic, convoluted smell. It doesn't smell "like" Kouros, but there is a family affinity with some of the "nature-y" dimensions of that scent. The marrying of the conventional citrusy cologne with this visceral Je ne sais quoi (et personne ne sais quoi) is electrifying. I love it and every day with it is a journey. Performance is cologne like - a couple of feet for a couple of hours. Re sprays mandatory. Currently £30 for 100 on eBay. I shall buy a second bottle, because this is so idiosyncratic that it will inevitably be discontinued.

Opens with a blast of petitgrain and lemon. Shortly after I get a beautiful bitter aromatic/earthy stage (probably the tarragon and mate), giving a strong impression of spices (caraway/cumin). The citruses, greenery and florals will tone down in the base, letting the mate dance with incense, labdanum and oakmoss (the pyramid is not complete here). Moderate projection and longevity. A stunning classic chypre-sque spicy/aromatic citrus fragrance (or more accurately: a citrus-y chypre, imho), on the same shelf with L'Eau d'Hermes, Armani Eau pour Homme and Lancetti Monsieur. I am not sure where people are getting some fecal, urinal or BO facets,(nor any similarity with Fougere Royale - it is totally different)... The name 'Cologne' might be misleading - the only point I might concede to the negative reviews - as It is clearly not a summery light citrus EDC, and is probably more suited for Fall than Summer, given the spicy undertones. While the full retail price is definitely steep for that one, it can be found for 3-4X cheaper online, and it's a no brainer at these prices if you like that style of fragrances. Mature? Not really... I'd say, for grown-ups, independently of age. Basically: lovers of Layton and Eros might want to pass and stick to the newborn department, independently of age :) Masterful craftmanship in my book, and again a hit by Luca Maffei. Fall days, 30+

Houbigant's Cologne Intense is really, really good. Upon first spray, you get a Citrus bang from the Bergamot and lime but also a slight bitter tang which I am assuming is either the petitgrain or Neroli mixing with the lavender. The mid part is all spicy herbal notes, tarragon n pepper with the lavender covering it. The dry down is slightly dry, salty herbal smelling notes which I am assuming is the Mate Tea and I also get hits of the slightly bitter floral Jasmine note. I dont smell any Incense as such. Projection is pretty strong for the first couple of hours and then settles a bit. Longevity is about the 6-7 hour mark which is fine for what is primarily a citrus herbal fragrance although in EDP concentration. This is a year round frag and you can dress it up or down, will add class to whatever you are wearing. The only thing it is not is a clubbing frag unless it's a beach party or something like that. Normally I dont pay attention to bottles but I have to say the Houbigant bottles for this and Fougere Royale are really beautiful with etched glass and solid, heavy Gold and silver caps. Adds a final touch of class to already classy frags. Get this if you like ADP's Colonia line or frags like Eau Sauvage or Rive Gauche. All Masculine Class. Very impressed.

This is right up my alley. Realistic citrus opening followed by a smoky jasmine. Undercut with facets of the green mate and labdanum. Fresh yet unique; very interesting. The scent keeps changing on my skin and keeps me captivated. Simply amazing. This would be a great signature scent for a discerning gentleman. This review is for the extrait de parfum version, which I don't see on fragrantica. Despite being an extrait, I don't find it to be overwhelmingly strong. It is definitely noticeable but not going to choke anyone out. Elegance in a bottle. Also, the presentation is top notch. Came in a very nice hinged wooden box and the bottle is gorgeous with a beefy, solid cap. The etched glass flacon is eye-catching. I pray this doesn't get discontinued so I can grab a back up bottle or two. EDIT: This has insane performance. In the opening I get a very sour lemon and a fresh petitgrain note. Jasmine and incense notes combine and the citrus notes lose their sourness in the heart. Incredibly long lasting citrus fragrance, this stuff just keeps going and going. Great sillage and longevity. Citrus and smoky jasmine on steroids. I love it and I'm glad to have this in my collection. 10/10

Just a follow up to earlier review a couple below. I can understand why this perfume gets such a low score. It is simply going to shock a lot of people, because the word 'cologne' in the name is really very misleading. You're not going to get ANYTHING like Acqua di Parma, Dior Homme Cologne, 4711, Neroli Portofino etc. So maybe people are disappointed (though there is a citrus spine to the scent). It is not 'like' anything that people will be familiar with, it is NOT a 'compliment getter' (eugh...I hate Fragrantica clichés... 'pulled the trigger... juice... urinal cakes... dated... old man smell... blah blah blah). But it is creative, and there is a 'line' to it, in the sense that it has a clear sense of purpose and elegant design. So I'd encourage perfumistas to give this a try. It is definitely NOT difficult to wear - it's not going to challenge people, even if you/they don't immediately love it. I'll assume that if you're reading this at all, then you're not wearing Sauvage, A*men, Le Male, Aventus et al. So you're clearly on a fragrance journey... so give it a go.

Having owned this for a year or so (After blind buying it) - I do love this fragrance. The first time, I spray tested it, my initial thoughts were 'Have I made a mistake?' BUT I let the thought sit for a few days and then went back to it. THEN I fell in love with it straightaway! It is a beautiful and a classy fragrance. IMO - perfect for summer. I would not recommend a blind buy though. I will copy a few sentences from the reviews below which mirror my thoughts: I was amazed at how classic this smells ... The accords it creates are very old school and almost animalic - not a heavy animalic but a very airy animalic. AND: Blind bought this thanks to a few reviewers I hold in high esteem. Namely Lanier, Jack Hunter and Le Knows. The negative reviews really had me in two minds. A lovely modern take on a classic gentleman’s cologne

Off the top I can smell lemon citrus with lavender mixed in with a strong earthy spice/herb. This herbal element really does ground the scent from becoming too citrusy. It's a little astrigent in a earthy leafy way and contrasts well with the citrus and lavender. I think this note must be the Tarragon. Behind these notes I can pick up a soft floral note which just shows itself every so often behind the dominating herbal accord. It does get stronger and I'm sure it's neroli or Jasmine maybe both. The scent is very well blended and crafted and quite complex. If you like green citrus herbal earthy fragrances that is gently sofened by a floral & neroli accords then you will like this. Thumbs up from me, I like it.

OK, I bought this and hated it immediately. However, my nose typically takes a bit to adjust to a challenging scent. Sometimes I figure it out and still dislike it. Other times, my brain puts it together and I love it. I couldn't get past the initial fuzzy sweet rotten floral animalic funk. But....I made myself wear it once, then twice. Then, voila it smelled different. I have gone from wanting to immediately sell it to really liking it. Yes, it's a thick old fashioned scent. Don't care. I'm a fan now. For those of you who despite this, make yourself wear it fairly heavy at least once. Update: now I love this stuff. Green, dry, crisp, expensive smelling, masculine, dressy, impressive.

Love Cologne Intense from Houbigant! Starts are almost gourmand with all the anise mixed with citrus. Then it settles down into a more complex, smokey vetiver kind of thing. It reminds me a little of old school Eau Sauvage from decades ago; maybe pitched a little more dark than the Dior classic. With the way it dries down CI would be fine year around. I can see this working well in cold weather. I usually wear it during the warmer times of the year. I'll have to try it this Winter. Totally safe for work too. Put some on and think classy thoughts.

High art signature. Masterpiece to the elect, unknown to the hoi polloi. Summons poetic imagination: papal palaces, incensed hair, hems of royal robes, sun faded starlight, blood memories, botanical reliquaries, equestrian heat. Ephemeral endings come for them all. Tragically only through discontinuation will this perfume receive denied bouquets of expansive praise. P.S. - Houbigant shared a year ago: "Cologne Intense is still present on our website but will soon be discontinued"

Blind bought this thanks to a few reviewers I hold in high esteem. Namely Lanier, Jack Hunter and Le Knows. The negative reviews really had me in two minds. Reminds me a bit of Etat Libre d’Orange’s Je Suis un Homme but less boozy and more natural. I feel too much has been made of the maté note. I think people notice it because it is an unusual note, but it is nicely integrated into the other base notes. A lovely modern take on a classic gentleman’s cologne. Five stars from me

I recently smelled an old batch of Eau Sauvage that my dad has since the 90's and it's really similar, I'd say this one has leathery accord that is present and stays a good hour after the initial spray, then it gets soapy and then ambery, it has different stages and for me it's synonymous of very well crafted perfumery.

At first spray I get a big citrus burst which smells very clean. It is green, earthy, citrus and floral. Very masculine. Perfect wear for a nice pair of jeans with a white crisp shirt.

an amazing skanky spicy citrus cologne i can even detect an animalic note in the top not such as civet some how.. yes it's animalic citrusy cologne .. thanks houbigant

I came to know Houbigant first through Fougère Royale and shortly thereafter through Essence Rare. Both are outstanding. So, when I saw all the hyperbolically negative reviews for Cologne Intense, my curiosity was piqued. When I noticed the prominent maté note, I knew I had to give it a go. I'm actually much more impressed with this than I expected to be. The maté is indeed foregrounded, bringing a soft, herbal mustiness that perfectly balances the sour lemon and sparkling petitgrain. The smoke is on the delicate side, working well with with the tarragon, which I fear would be too savory otherwise. My nose only detects the faintest whiffs of pepper, bergamot, and jasmine around the edges and base of an overwhelmingly earthy-herbal-citrus bouquet. The drydown is long, sweet, spicy, and slightly indolic. Cologne Intense is pleasant and unique enough that I've ordered a full bottle from a discount retailer. That said, it doesn't blow me away. It's very reminiscent of Fougère Royale, but not nearly as light on its feet; imagine FR, subtract most of the core aromatics, add lemon, bergamot, petitgrain, and neroli in the style of a classic Italian cologne, then whack some smokey maté on top of it all. The result is something that isn't refreshing, per se, but has a certain quirky, old-fashioned panache. The "intense" doesn't lie—the performance really is fantastic here. And most of all, don't listen to all the Marly-fetishist drama queens below (yes, I'm looking at you, JosefR and AndySmellsGreat)—this is a perfectly classy composition. It certainly doesn't smell like a "men's room", unless, that is, you have an impeccably clean men's room stocked with posh fragrances with a small window opening on the garden. ;)

A pristine Petit Grain note in here combines with a most defiant (in the context of a cologne), herbal and black soil-like Maté note. Cologne Noir would've been more apt of a name because it really isn't that explosive or strong enough to warrant 'Intense' in its title, but the Maté-Incense in it's base distinguishes it far apart from most Citrus Aromatics we know. Yes, it's distinguished, it's fresh, it's interesting. Is it exceptional? No, not really. It's just what a niche fresh fragrance should be. It stands out enough to spark arguments between conservative cologne lovers who feel they've been cheated into buying some new-age nonsense that doesn't even smell 'good' (pfft) and those who appreciate this quirky upgrade in the composition which, while it isn't anything stupefying, still works and provokes some interest. I fall in the latter category. But is that because I just love how handsome Luca Maffei is? Follow to find out. ~ bigbusynose of Instagram

It takes an acquired taste, to appreciate this one. It definitely, took me a few wears to open up to it and become accustomed to its old-fashioned structure. Starts off with a blast of citrus and smoke. The lemon and incense is very fine and beautifully composed. Then the florals chime in. Normally, I don’t like Jasmine, ( and this is loaded with it ) But it is blended remarkably well here. The lavender and neroli, play tug of war, while wrapped in incense providing body and sophistication. I also smell cistus, which gives an impression of tobacco. As it dries down, oakmoss and mate, work together to provide earthiness to the entire composition. Tarragon and petitgrain keep everything green, bitter, and fresh. It’s a traditionally structured chypre alright, and a damn good one. My only concern is wearability. It can come off as old-fashioned and mature, and even some might refer to it as dated compared to its more mass appealing cousin Fougere Royale.

This should be a simple fragrance to describe in many ways, but I find it rather challenging. It's fresh, but dirty, intriguing and boring at the same time. It has a skank to it, but also a fresh juiciness to it. I don't know what to say. I appreciate Cologne Intense for what it is. I understand quite well why some love this and others detest it. If you like old-fashioned colognes and niche perfumery you should get a sample and test this out. Could potentially be a signature scent because of the freshness but also off its skanking and the little spice from the mate.