Isabey Fleur Nocturne

Some weeks ago a loveliest Fragrantica friend sent my way an envelope with several vials of stunning and unique Niche fragrances... Fleur Nocturne sample came in a cute little package where she'd written "The biggest surprise", and really it was a fabulous surprise when I saw she included the scent I was yearning to try since before joining Fragrantica! I confess I had been initially intrigued by its exquisite and most refined bottle, but only in the last months - when I started to deeply explore white florals - I got extremely curious about what is often described as a highest quality gardenia fragrance, a dream for white floral lovers, a refined jewel in which traditional and modern perfumery balance harmoniously. The name itself evokes mystery, sensuality and elegance... I really couldn't wait to try it directly on my skin, but I thought it was better to wait the nocturnal hours for that. Upon first apply, Fleur Nocturne kind of amazed me! The opening is much more intricate and less intensely floral than I expected: usually, when a fragrance contains gardenia or jasmine in its heart, these are the notes I immediately perceive, but not in this case... the fruity nuances stand out clearly during the first minutes, conjuring a heavenly nectarous vibe, and it’s nearly impossible to describe how do they exactly smell or which note is dominant. I am tempted to say peach and mandarin were rendered in an abstract way, but no, they’re just done as if a magical touch was added to them: could apricot blossoms be the responsible for such a marvelous juiciness? (I will surely smell some the next time I see an apricot tree in bloom). The unexpectedly intense succulence and radiance of top notes soon leave way to a creamiest, warm and truly seductive gardenia: the undisputed Queen of Fleur Nocturne feels sumptuous and at the same delicately natural and full of grace, seemingly enriched with sweeter and multi-leveled facets as the night deepens, while soft hints of delicate jasmine and dewy magnolia petals add a certain airiness to the composition that otherwise would maybe result too dense. As it verges towards the vanillic drydown Fleur Nocturne acquires a velvety texture, slightly darkened by the earthiness of patchouli, and the vivacious sensuality of the previous stages is replaced by a polished and cozy quietness. I am well aware suggestion often influences the way we interpret reality, so - the original fragrance from 1925 being named “Bleu de Chine” - I kind of feel transported to Eastern promenades while wearing this EdP, with fragrant blooming from trees announcing Springtime on a silky twilight sky. The inspiration may come from afar, but it's impossible not to notice the artistry of French perfumery here, the ability of sublimating the ingredients into luxury and class. The journey towards exotic scenarios will come to an end, but not the feeling of inner Beauty and confidence this wonderful fragrance is able to convey: usually I stay away from utterly expensive scents, but this is something I would love to have in my collection one day as a reference for refined taste and great quality. I simply adore how Fleur Nocturne manages to reach the highest levels of elegance without ever feeling distant or overwhelming: I guess if this fragrance loves you, you just have to surrender to it, and love it back. Wonderfully done, Isabey! Let’s start saving for this masterpiece now :)

This is a very beautiful perfume and I'm so glad that I've tried a sample of it. I think it's full bottle worthy for sure and speaking of bottles, I love the beautiful blue bottle for this with its gold accents and oriental looking pale blue flowers on it. It looks very chic and sophisticated! The juice itself opens up with a slightly citric-smelling and sweet and creamy peach that reminds me of the peach note in Fracas de Robert Piguet. I smell the gardenia slightly later on too, with the other floral notes in this combining and creating a bubblegummy tuberose scent to my nose. I don't really smell the jasmine and the magnolia in this. I'm glad I can't smell magnolia, since I hate the smell of magnolia and find them too lemony and watery/aldehydic smelling. In the base I can smell the vanilla quite prominently and a hint of the patchouli, giving the sweet vanilla a bit of spiciness, woodiness and earthiness. This is definitely the night-time and slightly spicier and stronger version of Gardénia (which is also by Isabey) and it is more seductive and not as virginal too. It's like Gardénia's dark and raunchy older sister, with a bit of Fracas thrown in. I got fairly strong projection from this and it lasted 8 hours on me, so it was long lasting on me. I'm quite happy with the smell and everything else about this perfume and I have decided to buy this fragrance in a few weeks after I get my next paycheck. 8 1⁄2 out of 10 for me... simply beautiful! (Update: now I have it and I am over the moon in love!)

This Fragrance is so beautiful! I have wanted to make a review for It for so long. At the same time I’ve tried not to use It as much because I think its better during spring and summer. I actually own a lot of fragrances with peach in them so I’m kind of familiar with the note in perfumes. I don’t get that peach in the opening as many people mention. I get apricot blossom, definetly mandarin and strong gardenia right from the start. As It warms up on the skin the Jasmine and patchouli pops up. The patchouli actually adds a little edge to the gardenia and Jasmine and makes them ”dirty”, but in a good way! Latest to the party is the vanilla. And the vanilla here is such good quality. It balances the whole fragrance while being the least noticable note. The vanilla is kind of milky? Or like whipped vanilla cream but not exactly gourmand at the same time. The gardenia is still the star all through the different stages. Nothing vintage about this fragrance in my opinion BUT It does have something nostalgic about It. Like the memory of a beautiful story. Reallly 10/10 for gardenia lovers just based on the scent. The longevity is also good but the sillage unfortunately is not the best. This is more of a ”close to skin” scent.

Testing from a decant sent by Adrienn99 (thank you). The first thing I said when I sprayed this on the back of my hand is "GARDENIA!". That's in capital letters because that's what Fleur Nocturne is all about. All the other notes are here to support that one glorious flower. Of the perfumes I own, I think this is closest to Vilhelm Parfumerie Fleur Burlesque. Fleur Nocturne has a sort of peachy fuzz to it. It smells... downy. Despite being - to my nose - a soliflore, it has a slight fruitiness to it, which I believe to be coming from the peach and apricot blossom. I really am not picking up on patchouli at all, which makes this a safe buy for those who dislike the note. I'm not getting vanilla either, but it's probably contributing to the creamy sensation. Final thoughts: I don't understand why this is called Fleur Nocturne (Night Flower); to me, neither the notes nor the overall "feel" suggest it's a night time perfume. I don't think it's a chypre, either - to me, it's a lovely fruity floral (albeit a "grown up" one).

This one stopped me in my tracks. It is luscious, creamy and definitely swoon worthy. It is like walking past a gardenia bush in full bloom where there is a mix of new fresh buds and older flower heads that are past their best. You inhale the heady indolic aroma from the gardenia bush and see there is also a jasmine vine nearby. Like others have noted, I also got a coconut note at the beginning, similar to a luscious tiare note, but this settled after a few minutes and gave way to the floral notes. The scent of summer white flowers is a well trodden path in perfumery but I have never come across one that is so close to capturing the real thing. This doesn't steer too far into the indoles or sweetness like many of its peers. It is perfection. Definitely on my want list!