Isabey Lys Noir

Hmmm...this is nice but the whole time I was testing it, I couldn't help thinking it really smells like *something* else, but I couldn't put my finger on it. I was thinking maybe just Isabey fragrances in general, since Isabey definitely uses a common base in all of their perfumes and it's especially strong here, as if this entire composition is essentially an amplification of their base (think of guerlinade, and how L'heure Bleu is particularly heavy on it, a fragrance build entirely upon Guerlain's signature base-this is Isabey's LHB) and then I checked this page and oh my god, in the "smells like" section, there it is! Fiore del Dragone! Yep, that's what this smells like. If you've tried FDD, you'll know that it has whispers of Dior Hypnotic Poison, but overall is very much its own fragrance. Well this is exactly like FDD but where the Hypnotic Poison aspects are replaced by that signature Isabey base, making this somewhat similar to HP as well, but by no means a dupe. This, and FDD, are more like an exploration of HP's white floral side, if we're to compare them, whereas HP's almond cookie facets are showcased in perfumes like Profumum Roma Conafetto-similar to HP but in a totally different way, so Lys Nocturne and Conafetto don't smell alike but share a similar cousin/ancestor in HP, if that makes sense. Sorry to ramble, I just find families of "dupes" that explore different facets of a certain fragrance/style of fragrance very interesting. I think HP is special because it marries the gourmand and white floral sides, whereas most similar perfumes focus on one or the other mainly. Back to FDD, well this is a lot nicer than FDD in my opinion. Although they are VERY similar, this smells like its much more expensive (which it is) and made of quality materials, FDD unfortunately has too much of a synthetic chemical vibe to me, so if I wanted this scent, I'd definitely choose Lys Noir. Still, I think my favorite almondy white floral perfume remains SL Datura Noir, it's the roughest around the edges which is precisely what I love about it. This one is *very* smooth, *very* round, and pretty lactonic. Those traits will make it loved by many, but I prefer scents that are less smooth and creamy and rather sharper and more in your face. But it's well done. It's so smooth and round that I don't really smell any of its notes individually as much as I smell the whole composition-a creamy, sweet, very slighly powdery, soft tropical white floral. And I agree with a reviewer who said that this smells much more tropical than it does "noir", it really is a tropical beauty. One last fragrance I'll compare it to, Keiko Mecheri Datura Blanche-it shares a lot of DNA with that one as well. If soft tropical gourmandish white florals are your thing (ie. you like HP, FDD, datura noir or datura blanche) give this one a go.

This is a very pretty scent but it does not strike me as particularly dark, nor is the lily very detectable, so I find the name something of a misnomer. This goes on very smooth, creamy, I am unsure why but it makes me think of the kind of thick yellow custard used in those iced vanilla slices, that particular shade of creamy yellow. Heliotrope and Tuberose are by far the most dominant notes, in honesty I wouldn't have said there was lily in this if I didn't know. The tuberose here is not at all animalic or indolic it is tamed, domesticated - a fluffy white kitten rather than a roaring tiger - and very very creamy, the heliotrope works beautifully to complement this creaminess and plays more to its powdery nuances than to an almond or cherry note. The narcissus adds to the slight sweetness, and again reinforces the yellow softness. The sandalwood is also soft, an unseen support rather than a note of itself, but again lending to this creamy yellow softenss. Did I mention it is creamy? Or soft?! I suppose the softness of the lily makes this a lily scent more in the style of Baiser Vole or Lys Carmin - very soft and gentle, rather than the bolder and raunchier lily scents such as Lys Fume, Shanghai Lily and Alameda and it is a world away from heavier scents like Gilded Lily. In the opening stages this reminded me of a Guerlain scent - that is a complement. I would have been tempted to say this contained coconut, but I think it is the interplay between the heliotrope and tuberose. It reminded me of Datura Noir (another really-not-noir noir perfume!). in the heart the lily makes itself known, very shyly. I perceive absolutely zero pepper at all, thankfully, as I cannot imagine it working in this mix. All in all this is a beautiful scent, and one I would like to get to know better. Very feminine, soft, calm, beautiful, this makes me feel like I should be one of those impossibly beautiful women in lifestyle magazines, sitting in my impractical for real life designer barn conversion replete with overstuffed beige suede sofa, natural toned carpets and white painted walls, my real sheepskin slippers on my sockless feet as I sit sipping a cocoa and gazing dreamily into the middle distance. I like it.

Black Orchid had a baby and named her Lys Noir :) Lys Noir is definitely the progeny of Black Orchid. It's quite a bit softer, lacking the aggression and compelling nature of Black Orchid. As a point of comparison, Ford’s Black Orchid is a loud roaring tiger, threatening to pounce with every spray. Lys Noir, on the other (more cautious) hand is a purring black kitten curled on your lap. She’s still dark, warranting the Noir name, but just barely. That being said, it still works for me. The reason it works? The floral and woody notes! Florals–They’re central in this creation. You’ll smell an impressive lily note here, but it’s not the only prominent floral. A creamy tuberose is also present and surprisingly, it doesn’t overwhelm the other florals as tuberose is often prone to do. Heliotrope comes later but it’s not nearly as robust as lily and tuberose, but you won’t mistake its slightly sweet floral infusion to the bouquet.. Narcissus doesn’t play a role at all, but gardenia makes an appearance. Isabey excels at gardenia. Woods–Lys Noir is about ebony wood note. Sandalwood is present, but it is not what gives this composition expression. Lys Noir finds its voice through its lovely lily, tuberose and the use of a darker more interesting wood note. I love that the ebony feels darkish here but resists being bitter or too masculine in the way the inclusion of darker woods can present. Top spice is black pepper and an unlisted cinnamon. I also smell a sweet coconut on top, which is an interesting choice. Base patchouli gives weight to the bottom, further grounding the lingering florals and ebony. Musk goes without notice. Noteworthy lily, tuberose, dark woods, patchouli The nod to Black Orchid, DNA doesn’t lie. Lys Noir is definitely a descendant ;)

This is a surprisingly beautiful fragrance, from someone who typically does not like lily fragrances. On my skin the tuberose is a little more amplified, but beautifully blended with Heliotrope and a slight green freshness from the narcissus, with the wonderful woody base notes underlying. The is definitely a slight “noir” vibe about it giving it interest and a slight edge. Just wonderful! Would consider a full bottle at the right price as it is a strong like but not enough of a love to wear it often enough. EDIT - although there is a distinct lack of lily, this kind of reminds me of both Trussardi Pure Jasmine and also Nishane Hundred Silent Ways. I own both of these and don’t really feel the need to add a lily-version of this scent profile to my collection.

I received a compliment for Lys Noir by Isabey. Yay! It's not a super huge projector, but definitely the person sitting next to you will get a definite whiff of the fragrance. The pepper is very present in the opening and then it quickly mellows out to the floral notes by the 1.5 hour mark. I can't distinguish between narcissus, heliotrope or rose. That said it does have a pronounced powdery delivery. By the 3 hour mark there's a soft sweetness in the drydown. It's a sophisticated lady rather than femme fatale vibe. This would be perfect for a cocktail or fancy evening event. I'm so glad I picked up this perfume. It's the perfect fragrance for an elegant occasion. It's a bit strong so I would stick to wearing this in the evening.