Anthracite

I'm trying this today for the first time immediately after a shower, with light sprays to each wrist, lightly over my decollete, and lightly on the back of my neck. This is truly lovely, in absolutely every sense. It reminds me of something familiar from my past, but I do not know what. Based on what others have said it reminds them of, it may be something I've smelled many times, in many different iterations over the years, which is probably why it smells so familiar and somewhat comforting to me. This shares some similar DNA with some of the more floral Estee Lauder fragrances. In early moments, Anthracite is suggestive of a combination of Pure White Linen and Samsara. This is so feminine and pretty, and absolutely something that just about any female could easily wear, even quite young ladies I think. It seems neither mature nor girlish. It is grounded, while still feeling very clean, fresh, green, and airy. It's just so charming. Very classic and timeless, perfect for virtually any occasion. Another masterpiece that embodies a wonderfully French femininity. This opened for me with a huge sparkling and effervescent greenness. As time passes, I'm getting a bit less green and more of the florals, a slight luscious creaminess, and perhaps a bit of woodiness. This is all very smooth and there is absolutely nothing harsh or overdone here. I believe someone referenced Samsara in the previous comments, and I can see that, but this is so much greener and fresher. It's now an hour later, and the flowers are definitely stepping forward, as are the vanilla and resins. The wood and the woodiness of vetiver keep it all very grounded, and a bit on the dry side. That dryness is what holds the flowers in check, preventing them from becoming overly sweet. Like many of my favorites, Anthracite is present but understated in just the right way. I ordered a 30 ml spray, and after sampling this I had to go back for a 100ml EDT. This is one I will wear often in Spring and Summer. I'm going to call this a Spring and Summer scent, although I always hesitate to label any fragrance as to appropriateness for any particular season. Every time I have, I've been surprised, or have surprised myself, at something worn in a season that I wouldn't have expected it, and it's been lovely. For example, Terenzi's Maremma over Valentino Uomo Noir Absolu. This layered combo is the most delicious boozy, musky, vanilla and incense concoction, and applied judiciously is just perfect in the heat of a Summer evening, which is a shining example of why I sample and wear frangrances every day - even when it's just me to enjoy it. You simply don't always know how a fragrance will perform based purely on itellectual knowledge of how things "should" smell. I'm three hours in, and this is still going strong. I'm going to say that I will get good enough longevity from this, but perhaps less projection than I would like. Again, though, this is Winter in the Pacific Northwest, and this may really bloom and carry in the heat of warmer months. Six hours in, and it has faded to just a bit more than a skin scent. Still there, still recognizable as I move about, but I doubt anyone else can discern much. Scent - 10+ Longevity and projection are average, but I sprayed with discretion today, as I do when sampling. Perhaps a more liberal application will make a difference. Edit: After having applied this yesterday, I woke this morning to immediately notice I'm still experiencing this loveliness, but what I smell now is the fresh, clean green again, and bergamot! I can see how some may think this could be unisex, wheras yesterday it seemed overwhelmingly feminine. Clearly this one is anything but linear in it's evolution on the skin. Again, what a welll-blended masterpiece!! Also apparent is that Anthracite has better longevity than I originally thought.

Imagine that duality of green and vanilla/benzoin that we find in classics such as Must de Cartier and Calvin Klein Obsession, then fill the core with a gorgeous spring floral melange of lemon-accented magnolia, hyacinth, narcissus, and lily of the valley, and we sketch an idea of Anthracite. It is so much more than that though, because of this dark ketone-rosiness folded into the blend, a big leafy basil-lime muddle smack dab in the middle of the affair, and almost bitter almond heliotrope underlining it. The result is so dazzling and peculiar, like a true "Alien" rather than the jarring, discordant Mugler. It's almost a sequel to Jacomo Silences, this time with an amber instead of a chypre structure, and a dark vetiver, woods, and toxic berries sealed in orris, casting a foreboding shadow on the spring affair of its first movement. It shares that same "witch's cauldron" feel of Magie Noire and Mystere Rochas, with spurs and spikes, slopes and fuzz, sweet, sour and bitter, wet then dry, bewildering by design. Furthermore, the sillage is delicious.

Vanilla is the least voted note here? But this is like Must de Cartier in its vanilla and amber duet. The only difference is that the hyacinth and basil overrides the whole composition. It is throughly soapy and powdery with the oriental base that pervades Dune and Must de Cartier. It’s aromatic for sure. And I agree that other reviewers said that it’s a witchy blend: it’s a grassy and abrasive floral with a warm vanilla and amber backbone. It’s too detached for modern tastes. A green vanilla with lots of soapy sap. Edit: The somewhat soapy accord is lemon, hyacinth and basil. It exists throughout the drydown. When you open the cap, it smells wonderful and it translates on sillage. On skin it’s acerbic but with warmth, it’s splendid.

I had a vial of this and gave to my great love Chat. Luca Turin praised it as a masterpiece, and I would love to have a big bottle. But I never see it nowhere..

Animal, vegetable, or mineral? Yes. Anthracite is a beautiful fascination.