1A-33

Again, I keep asking myself the same questions as many have already about the nature of these revived old houses and formulae. The central marketing message is about nostalgia, the revival of an old brand, the feel of their website and the design of the bottles seems to go toward a deco/modernist, utilitarian look (although the individual webpage of each perfume is resolutely modern). Are these fragrances a faithful recreation of old perfumes? By now I don’t think anybody is expecting a re-issue of old, unchanged versions, and we have set our expectations around the loose field of re-interpretation of old recipes or an approximation of the zeitgeist of the days these perfumes are meant to be about. There will be an element of modernity, for all sorts of reasons, and we have probably learnt to live with this tension. The next question is to what extent the balance is inclined toward the modern and what does that mean (mass market? generic, inoffensive, bland?). I am struggling a bit with this house to find answers to these questions and I had to have a third go at sniffing the samples before writing up anything about them. I’ll try to go through all four of their current line-up as soon as I have the time. The first one on my list, 1A-33, is probably my favourite. It does come up with some vibes that connect it to other times, so the redesign of a classic fragrance (which I have never experienced) could be more credible. It starts with an interesting linden accord, sharpened by some citrus and pepper. Linden trees and also linden tisane are more popular on the continent where I come from, so it is a bit difficult to find many comparable linden fragrances over here. I have made myself a cup of linden tisane to have something to compare it with, although I refrained from putting honey and lemon in it (which was what one was supposed to do when having a cold or a cough). There is a good resemblance, so this aspect is quite authentic. When testing it on my Anglo-Saxon partner, the reaction wasn’t great – linden is not carrying the same cultural connotations or memories as it does for me. The second phase kicks in quite fast and becomes a floral citrusy combo, with vague hints of the head notes. The base is tenacious and quite strong, but it is probably where I part company as it enters the modern territory of somewhat generic scents that could be anything, anywhere. I have to say that I recognise something in this fragrance from perfumes, cosmetics or hairspray my mother was using in the 60s and 70s. I am prepared to be convinced that the balance is slightly tilted in favour of a classic vibe and this is an interesting reinterpretation. There is a certain degree of simplicity here, as I don’t get an impression of lavishness or luxury. Good lasting and staying power, good projection. Overall score, 7.5 out of 10.

I've tried many lime blossom scents, and often they have the freshness but not the milky gentleness of lime blossom (also called Linden, or Tilia, or tilleul). It tends to be subjective mind you, with some noticing the honey/nectar facets of real-life lime blossom, some the citric element and so on. It's the total combination though - the humidity of the trees as the air heats up, the floral aspect, almost verging on jasmine-like - a milky sweetness, then the citric freshnes, the golden dusty pollen, verdancy, dry twigs. All of it is so transporting in real life, and yet so often when I test a lime blossom perfume it really reminds me of cleaning products! I honestly don't know what JF Schwarzlose have put in 1a-33 to give it this haunting innocent yet sophisticated scent. I could spraff on about notes, but truth be told they never really tell you what's in these things anyway! I think what's really working here is the musk, neroli, iris and whatever 'dewy' is from the list above (hedione maybe?) as well as linden/lime blossom. The lime blossom is subtle, but it's here. What I feel, wearing this, is that I'm carrying around my own atmosphere of June in Berlin with me - the elusive, delightful air of a city in bloom, I smell sophisticated scent in the air, a faint hint of coffee and brioche. Brilliant. It's a long time since I've so enjoyed a completely new perfume (new to me anyway!)

Lovely Composition. I bought it in Germany for 118€ (50 ml).I would say it is opening like Tom Fords Neroli Portofino but not that sharp in my nose. I get pepper, orange blossom and linden blossom. Not to fresh like OWARI from ODIN or Little Italy from BOND. I get sweet flowers after some hours which i really like, maybe some magnolia too. The pepper is gone after an hour, Jasmine stays .In total it last 4 to 6 hours. Lovely rounded Parfum that wil impress you if you like Neroli Portofino in another Light. More strong, sweet and with a bigger projection. Try it yourself!I enjoy it at work in the office and also by going out to a nice restaurant. It is wearable 24 hours. You will sniff your arms again and again. I promise! Thumbs up! scent: 9/10 longevity: 6/10 sillage: 7/10

I've never heard of this brand until it recently appeared in the shopping centre near me. I picked up several of their scents to test and as usual they were an instant no-go. I always loved fragrance and whenever I have an occasion I will test a few here and there. However, because it is extremely hard for me to find parfums that I like and that don't give me a headache, it takes me years to buy something new. So I did not really expect to like 1A-33, let alone love it! I was so surprised that I kept sniffing it throughout the day and went back one more time to test it on my skin to be sure again. It is quite expensive, so I could only afford a small 25ml vial, but even a drop makes me so happy!

Linden, Citrus, pepper. I love it. It’s fresh and I really enjoy the mandarin type citrus on me. I find it sits comfortably alongside day scents like Bal dafrique, some of the far less spendy but enjoyable Ouai and some CDG’s I wear. It’s unisex, I share it with my partner. It lasts close to the skin, does not shout but is quietly competent and quite comforting for being so. Not boring, just assured. I enjoyed all the samples from this fragrance house and just re ordered my second bottle of this having got through a 50ml in 7 months.