Oud in White

Oud in White belongs to the Extreme collection from Laboratorio Olfattivo, composed by Julien Rasquinet, a perfumer known for working with oriental and woody themes. In Middle Eastern traditions, it is quite common to combine oud oil with floral oils, especially white florals such as orange blossom, ylang-ylang, or jasmine. In Western perfumery, however, the idea of using white flowers to soften oud became widespread much later, largely after around 2010. The name itself is quite literal. Oud is usually associated with something dark and dense, while the word “White” signals immediately that this fragrance pairs oud with white florals. In the first few minutes on skin, the opening shows a bright mix of pear and raspberry with a crisp acidity, accompanied by fresh ginger that adds a clean spicy touch. The impression is clear and lively. Before the fruit notes fade, the oud begins to appear, slowly layering itself beneath the fruit. Together they create a cool-toned “woody sweetness,” which gives the fragrance a very recognizable character. Then jasmine emerges. Here the jasmine feels close to the scent of real blossoms—rich and smooth. Osmanthus is less distinct, mainly contributing a delicate honeyed-fruity nuance. Cedar provides the structural support, balancing the sweetness of the florals so they do not become heavy. This stage reflects the “White” in the name: the florals and fruit act like a layer of light that lifts the oud, preventing it from feeling dark or dense. The heart is particularly well executed. In the drydown, oud combines with labdanum and sandalwood. The oud leans toward a woody tone with a subtle leather facet, while labdanum adds a soft resinous warmth and sandalwood brings a smooth texture. What remains on the skin is a quiet woody scent with a faint leather-like touch. Longevity is good, and projection is moderate.

One of the surprises of 2025 for sure (but released in 2024), Oud in White by LaboratorioOlfattivo from JulienRasquinet opens on a fresh trio of pear, ginger, and raspberry. A bright, mildly spiced fruit burst that softens the moment the oud myth kicks in forming a sweetish gasoline accord. Soon after the intro, jasmine sambac kicks in and becomes the star of the show, fleshy and creamy as it is. The Jasmin's indolic presence is wrapped in osmanthus and grounded by a slender cedarwood element. As it dries into its base, oud, labdanum, and sandalwood contribute to a dawn-side long wearing leather accord. Performance projection wise is rather polite but does not disappoint: Oud in White hovers close to the skin for most of its journey, without screaming. Its longevity runs for 8+ hours. This Reqsquinet composition for Laboratorio Olfattivo is bang on unisex and feels curated for mature wearers: the fruit-floral top notes give a friendly introduction, while the jasmine-oud core lends depth. In my opinion, it is approachable for oud-curious users but at the same time, provide enough uniqueness for connoisseurs too. Oud in White's fruitiness and substance ensure that it can be used all year round, making it versatile. I would still recommend sampling it first, especially for those who can appreciate compositions that develop across floral and woody notes.

A bold leathery-resinous oud fragrance by Julien Rasquinet for Laboratorio Olfattivo. Eventhough listed, I don‘t get much of the fruity top notes, only a faint idea for the first few seconds. Oud In White then immediately starts to showcases a pungent oud note and leathery facets, very dark and brooding. At this stage, the fragrance will be challenging for the vast majority of people. Then slowly, a somewhat clean and not overly indolic jasmine note joins the composition, supported by a touch of osmanthus. The jasmine is more of a whisper, adding a shade of white to the otherwise very dark composition. Once Oud In White fully dries down, labdanum becomes a prominent note, softened by sandalwood, while still retaining it‘s leathery facets and a touch of jasmine. The drydown is where Oud In White is truly stunning and elegant, but it needs a few hours to get there. Oud In White has almost eternal longevity and massive sillage, to be dosed with caution. A statement-making perfume for the fearless.

At first sniff, I realized I had smelled something very close to this scent before. histoires de parfum 1.7 And this fragrance. They both share the same unique character in today’s market—and of course, I love them both. For me, my very first love in niche perfumery was Amouage Opus XI under Christopher Chong’s direction (the former creative director of Amouage), followed by Gucci Guilty Absolute. In recent years, I’ve discovered something cleaner yet still carrying the essence of those two beloved fragrances. They both possess a clean, industrial character that is also nostalgic—reminiscent of the interior of an old bathroom in an Arabian country or Iran, with bars of handmade soap resting on a cement shelf. This is a perfect choice for someone with a strong presence in the worlds of art and design—such as a visual artist, gallery director, art curator, or fashion designer. It’s a contemporary and bold scent for a strong, detail-oriented individual.

I got sent a sample of this new fragrance after purchasing one of their bottles. Oud in White sounded quite interesting. The original idea was to make a jasmine and oud fragrance and well it is a bit but it has so much to it than that. In the opening you really do detect the jasmine floral aspect but the jasmine has made some friends taming the little indolic aspects of the jasmine with some sweetness. It's like the jasmine has been a bit caramelized but not in a sickly sweet way. The oud starts to appear way back in the dry down with its smoky touches. It's honestly beautiful how it compliments the floral aspect of the jasmine. This is a really original fragrance and I will have to give it some more wears to consider purchasing it but I am quite pleased so far. Well done!