Sortilege (2014)

My review is for the vintage Le Galion Sortilege. I have not tried the 2014 version but a glance at the notes makes it seem that the name has been given to a completely different fragrance. There's no way on earth that any modern fragrance company would try to sell a true re-release of the original at this time in history; floral aldehydics are so not a thing now, and too many of the ingredients are restricted to boot. The hideous Long Lost Perfumes attempt to squeeze some bucks out of the name has it's own seperate entry, thank goodness. Please don't think you know Sortilege if that's the one you've tried - it would be unfair. So on to the vintage Sortilege. I have several bottles of extrait and several more of parfum de toilette. Unlike No 5 and many other fragrances of the time, Sortilege is the same basic scent in both varieties; the perfume is simply stronger and longer lasting. The parfum de toilette is roughly equivalent in strength to most modern parfums. There is no "light" concentration of Sortilege - the "Eau Sortilege" is at least as strong as a modern edt. It's sadly prone to evaporation if not stored well (especially in parfum concentration) so be very careful if an Ebay seller wants top dollar for a sealed box. If you don't know the proper weight odds are very high you will get half a bottle or less. I know the full weights of the various sizes of Le Galion parfums and it never ceases to amaze me how many sellers who know perfume are trying very hard (and no doubt succeeding with those who don't know better) to pass off an empty sealed box as a treasure to be charged double for, always with no returns. It's an aldehydic, so the top notes can often be off if stored improperly for years - though in my experience even almost entirely evaporated bottles of the parfum will most likely still have quite a lovely scent and more strength than many of todays expensive extraits. If you can find a parfum with minimal evaporation, preferably in an *opened* box so you can see how much is there and know it was probably kept in the box away from the light, it's the way to go. The parfum de toilettes are generally not much evaporated since they don't have a glass stopper so that might be a safer bet, though for me the parfum is worth the extra effort to find. It's compared by many to Chanel No 5 but the resemblance is really just that they are both aldehydic florals. 40 years from now people will no doubt think Flowerbomb, Coco Mademoiselle, Angel,and La Vie Est Belle are exactly the same, too. Sortilege is much prettier than No 5 to my nose. Lovely is the first word that comes to mind when I wear it. The aldehydes are very strong but not harsh (for one used to aldehydes - to a millenial I'm sure it's probably pretty weird, but I feel the same way about Iso Super E and ethyl maltol; different generations and all that) and without any of the No 5 citrus. It's a warmer, gentler and more overtly feminine fragrance than No 5. Jasmine, peach, strawberry, rose, hyacinth, lily of the valley, orange blossom, violet, orris root and probably other florals rest softly and sweetly on a smooth, luscious, animalic and powdery bed of honeyed sandalwood, vetiver, tonka, civet, musk, oppoponax. It's so well blended, so dynamic - so incredibly complex and yet simply gorgeous. Even my almost anosmic non-perfumista husband who wrinkles his nose a little at most aldehydics always, always says that I smell pretty when I wear this.

Sortilege by Le Galion is the first perfume I recall from childhood and the genesis of my life-long love affair with fragrance, aldehydic ones in particular.. When I was only 4 or 5 years old my father won a sales contest at work and chose as his prize a 1oz bottle of Sortilege parfum extrait in a fascinating crystal bottle with a glass stopper for my mom. Even though she didn't care for the fragrance she wore it for special occasions because it was a gift from my father (good advice for anyone who receives a gift of fragrance from a loved one!). While preparing to go out my mom would put her red hair in a french twist and dab that little crystal stopper on her neck and wrists and then would dab some on me, making me feel very special, indeed. A few years ago I found the very same bottle, still sealed and in the same green and white box, from an auction site and I was instantly swept back 50+ years to my parents' bedroom, watching my mom open her bureau drawer to take out that scent of heaven. Without hesitation I hit that "buy it now" button and a week later, for just $40.00 (!!!!) my childhood arrived in my mailbox. Many bottles of the original are still available on-line but I will surely purchase a bottle of this recreation. I realize my emotional connection to this fragrance means no one will experience it as I do but if you love aldehydes Sortilege belongs in your collection. There's a honey-sweetness and oakmoss bite that's very "French" and truly intoxicating. The edt & edp have soft sillage and stay close to the skin but you'll know it's there for 8-10 hours. If you splurge on a bit of the extrait you'll have wider sillage and 12-14 hour longevity. With any concentration I promise you will feel like a queen!

I don't have the new one. This review is for the vintage. I have 3 bottles of perfume with glass stoppers and tiny gold foil labels on the side and stopper. I also have a bottle of Eau de Sortilege which I believe is a cologne or toilette. It has 2 paper labels. All seem fresh but one partial perfume that seems to be extra civet-y. I'll only talk about the good ones. This is one of my absolute favorite vintage fragrances. It almost "not quite" feels like a powdery floral chypre. Vetiver, moss, orris, narcissus and civet? I don't note aldehydes specifically but there is a slight fizz. I smell something slightly balsamic and vanillic but not vanilla or Tonka. That's all I can guess by smelling it on my arm. I'm just starting to be able to pick out individual notes and I could be wrong. It reminds me of the old Faberge fragrances listed under Brut Parfums Prestige. It start's out a little like Aphrodisia and the middle is almost identical Flambeau but the end of Sortilege is deferent. I use it a lot but I want to be carful because who knows when I'll find more at a good price. My husband sneaks a drop here and there too.

A kind member sent to me a decant of the original Sortilege extrait recently. Thank you, sweet lady. I really hate to gush, but honestly, that small bottle of parfum contains one of the most heart-breakingly beautiful fragrances ever created. Really. I'm so surprised that there is absolutely nothing "off" in the notes. Top notes are there, nothing is sour or smells anything other than what it should. This is a Floral like few others. Sortilege is so well blended, that I'm having trouble picking out individual notes. It plays on my skin like the most beautiful bouquet and is absolutely entrancing. It's interesting to read about the history of this fragrance and the Manhattan night club "The Stork Club" and the celebrities that visited there, and wore Sortilege back in the day. If you can find a good bottle, or even a small amount, get it... and experience joy.

I’m completely in love with Le Galion fragrances. They all have big nostalgia in the background and you feel it obviously. They take you to somewhere in the past; reviving and bringing back some obscure familiar memories at the same time. . The original Sortilège was launched in 1937 by great Paul Vacher. Then it was relaunched in 2014 and the nose behind this fragrance is Marie Duchene. To me Sortilege is a beautiful floral aldehyde perfume with all feminine delicacies. It’s a big bouquet of different white and yellow flowers combo, with Ylang Ylang and Jasmine being the most prominent ones. This amazing smooth fragrance smells complex and elaborate, decorated with a semi soapy and aldehydic aura, and finally settles down on a soft amber and powdery bed which is mostly made of mimosa, sandalwood and musk.