Tubéreuse Supercritique

This is a glamorous and heady tuberose. Quite sharp and indolic. Beautiful creamy and romantic, slightly lactonic white florals with a warm and woody ambered musky base. A little spicy and mature, not for the faint of heart, I think this would be gorgeous in the cold weather.

So, I own and absolutely love Les Eaux Primordiales "Gardenia Supercritique." And it’s debatable whether or not gardenia is even present in that fragrance. Nevertheless, I adore the perfume. Also, I like other fragrances I've owned/own/sampled from this house... I LOVE what this house does with the mid-and-base notes of otherwise linear, or soliflore fragrances. So, after much anticipation to try "Tubereuse Supercritique," I purchased a sizable decant and gave the perfume several tries. Tubereuse Supercritique opens with the obligatory aldehydic, citrusy notes that are omnipresent in modern day perfumes. But the BITTER ORANGE is strong and prevelant, it truly is. The opening notes eventualy dissipate and give way to tuberose, ylang-ylang, some creamy almond and other floral notes. And while I adore Gardenia Supercritique because of its on-skin development and impeccably blended notes, Tubereuse Supercritique initially feels poorly blended and clunky. BUT...I wait for the drydown...and I'm talking 30 minutes in...Tuberose Supercritique morphs, blends and some loveliness begins. My nose detects tuberose, ylang-ylang and LOADS of patchouli, sandalwood and amber. Initially the perfume's accords seem to compete with each other. But in the end, the perfume wears a a lovely, fragrant, creamy, tuberose-forward fragrance with LOTS of patchouli, sandalwood, amber and musk. Not sure (yet) if this is full-bottle worthy, which is what I'm seeking. But I'll give is some time...

As a tuberose lover, I absolutely adored this perfume! It’s a chewy, soft, creamy white floral! Also fresh, clean, and delightful. There’s a powdery nuance, but the white florals clearly take center stage. The ylang-ylang is also quite noticeable. Usually, when tuberose and ylang-ylang come together, the result leans indolic but this one feels a notch cleaner compared to similar scents. The sweetness level is also very well-balanced. You can definitely detect the patchouli here, and it adds depth alongside the citrusy freshness. But as I said, those are just supporting elements. The true queen here is the rich, creamy tuberose. I’m surprised when people compare this to Poême. That one is all about mimosa; airy and bursting. This, on the other hand, is a much creamier tuberose. There’s really no resemblance, in my opinion.

I’m not a fan of the opening notes, very spicy and bitter. After that the tuberose starts to make its presence felt and I like it more. I like tuberose perfumes, but this one isn’t for me, it’s not the sweet tuberose I prefer.

Milky sweet tuberose + ylang ylang combo over patchouli. The scent bubble feels tropical, at times sunscreen-ish. I keep thinking there’s coconut or vanilla when I catch whiffs. Could be the almond milk. I’m faintly reminded of BoraBora, but a very smooth and soft version that lacks the thick chemical fumes in BB. This smells beautiful. I really enjoy this house, especially Iris Palladium and Neroli Supercritique. However, while they do hang in for a few hours, they’re all soft with intimate sillage. If you like Memo Marfa and YSL Supreme Bouquet this is also worth a try.