Chypre de Grand

A theme I’ve definitely noticed having gone through the Maksim lineup is a desire to take old, popular, and/or trendy structures, subvert in some unusual way and push them to an extreme whilst still keeping them recognizable. The traditional chypre is a shoe-in for a perfumer like Maxim Bortnikov; if it’s a wood based structure, he’s going to make a noble attempt. Chypre de Grand is subversive like many others in the current lineup, but not really pushed to an obvious extreme. Maxim’s penchant for dark, muscular, and superbly rich compositions is firmly intact in this contrary presentation of the citrusy, effervescent, floral, clean, classic masculine chypre. The opening contains a blend of old school and modern hesperidics, mainly bitter bergamot, a bit of ripe and sweetened lime, and pink and slightly sulfurous grapefruit. In Bortnikov’s signature style, again, do not expect bright and refreshing effervescence. These hesperidics are all oily zests and rinds, slick and viscous; greens, yellows, and pinks all given a slight shade brown. Then my heart is arrested by one of the best floral hearts to a masculine chypre that I’ve smelled in a long time. Fleshy, slightly fruity and powdery, and woody roses are given resinous earthy notes that add a tasteful touch of sweetness and spice. The combination of beeswax and a beautiful licorice note is inspired. The floral sweet waxiness is finery draped over the rose, with the rooty, gourmand, and anisic licorice adding a fertile and loamy dimension. A very gentle smokiness from slowly smoldering aromatic woods adds considerable dimension to help the licorice with its task of bringing depth to the otherwise top-heavy notes of the heart layer. The trademark muscularity of Maksim compositions feels more taught and lean, athletic and coordinated, than outright muscular. The base is heavily laden with Maxim’s favorite and excellent cedar material, highly aromatic and peppery, with criss-crossed labdanum, patchouli, and moss that exist as a coherent whole. I was sold pretty much immediately the first day of wearing Chypre de Grand. Much like Cologne d’Agar, Chypre de Grand takes something achingly familiar, twists it, and gives it burly muscle and richness. In this manner Chypre de Grand feels a bit more familiar with its lack of oud and much tamer rose, therefore it shouldn’t be assumed that these two are going to be close enough to require a firm question of one or the other. Nor does it yet feel as though Maxim Bortnikov is being thematically repetitive despite his presentations having near identical personalities. It is at this point in my exploration of the brand’s current lineup, with all of my thoughts nearly finalized, that I recognize his unique voice as not monotonous but rather under superb control capable of subtlety; the rare vocalist capable of expertly singing R&B, pop, and rock yet always still sounding like themself. Another excellent piece of work from a brand and perfumer that should be paid close attention to.

The subtle emanation, the impalpable aura that envelops and defines Chypre de Gran... A liquid poem exhaled from nothingness to caress the soul. Its essence, far from beaten paths and olfactory evidence, rises like an ancient murmur, a confidence whispered in the ear of time. Imagine a diaphanous dawn rising over unknown lands, where the scents of primordial lands mix with the exhalations of distant stars. The memory of a garden suspended in the skies, where imaginary flowers with iridescent corollas distil nectars with unsuspected flavors. The opening is not a simple juxtaposition of notes, but a lyrical envolée, an impalpable melody that stretches like a golden thread through consciousness. Citrus zest, of course, but filled with a solar sap captured at the precise moment in which the light embraces their peel. These lively and sparkling scents are not a simple freshness, but the echo of a crystalline laugh, the promise of a journey beyond known horizons. The heart beats with a profound emotion, a telluric vibration where the delicacy of a rose, not earthly but ethereal, merges with the smoky swirls of a sacred wood, burning on a forgotten altar. This smoke is not acrid, but vaporous, bearer of mysteries and ancestral spells. And then, this singular note, this rare essence coming from lands where time itself seems to flow differently... It is neither completely sweet, nor completely spicy, but an elusive nuance, a well-kept secret that intrigues and enchants, like an alchemical filter. The base, finally, is an indelible imprint left on the veil of reality. It is the reminiscence of an enchanted forest bathed by the moon, where the moss of the centuries-old trees exudes a noble melancholy and where the subtle breath of a distant land confers an abysmal depth without ever weighing down the spirit. Creating a new olfactory language, a grammar of new sensations, Here... the proof that elegance is not a simple repetition of the past, but a creative audacity that draws on the imagination to offer a transcendent experience. Other artwork from Maksim perfumes @parfumez_moi on Instagram

This is a masculine-leaning chypre with strong, animalic beeswax, classic herbal aromatics, real animal musk, inky natural oakmoss, and a splash of lime. The musk is an animal-derived musk and it’s very apparent...there is a rawness to this fragrance that, at least for me, reminds me of older musky and masculine chypres from yesteryear, and it helps elevate CdG’s luxury. The oakmoss is also very classic chypre since it’s real, super inky and earthy, and the way it ping pongs with the beeswax and musk is super interesting. Dewy florals are present, and it adds an almost petrichor vibe to the honey notes coming from the beeswax. The result is a deeply resinous, dynamic and challenging fragrance that can be worn by confident individuals during the day and evening, in any weather but hot and humid. I really dig it, and it’s probably the most natural-smelling potion in my collection. 9.4/10

Chypre de Grand reminds me of the ending of the movie The Menu, where Anya Taylor-Joy's character asks the chef to make her a plain cheeseburger. Sometimes, in perfumery as well as food, a good thing doesn't need to be, to quote the movie, "fancy, deconstructed, affluent bullshit," it can just be a pure and enjoyable thing. Chypre de Grand is a traditional chypre. Citrus: bergamot and lime, animalics: beeswax and deer musk, floral: rose, resins: styrax and labdanum, and woods in the base in the form of oakmoss, patchouli, and cedar. Just a great chypre, no frills, no deconstructed affluent bullshit. Of course, the ingredients here are top tier and well worth the high price tag. Longevity is insane. Will last until you take a shower, and maybe longer. I'm not a huge fan of chypres, but this one is done so well that I'm actually coming to enjoy it a lot. Bravo, Maksim!

Chypre de Grand opens with a tremendous chord of old-fashioned chypre goodness; at once sharp-green and dark-resinous. It has terrific dignity and presence. The lime, in particular, really pops, before sinking into mossy depths. In the heart it's soft, breathy, and brown. The musks keep it fluffy, and the resin/citrus/moss balance perches perfectly between bitter and sweet. There are fruity chypres, floral chypres, leather chypres, etc; Chypre de Grand is "just chypre", the essential core without distractions. Chypres are a traditionally feminine genre of scent, but this one is angular and unadorned enough to feel more unisex. It has enough classic glamour and swagger for anyone. (Yes, the name is fake French. I don't know why these people can put so much effort into a fragrance and not spend a few seconds to check the name...)

This fragrance is a beautifully crafted vintage woody aromatic chypre that brings a lovely old-school vibe, made with high-quality ingredients. It opens with bright, zesty citrus notes, quickly transitioning into a heart filled with unique scents like licorice, benzoin, styrax, beeswax, guaiac wood, and deer musk. As it settles, you’ll discover a powdery, mossy base featuring oakmoss, cedar, labdanum, and patchouli. It really evokes a sense of nostalgia and classic charm, making it perfect for refined gentlemen who appreciate timeless scents!

Beautifully constructed vintage style woody aromatic chypre with a distinct old school vibe and high quality ingredients, The traditionally constructed scent has an opening of citruses moving rapidly to a heart of licorice, benzoin, styrax, beeswax, guaiac, and deer musk before settling into a powdery mossy base of oakmoss, cedar, labdanum and patchouli. The masculine leaning scent has moderate to strong projection and very good longevity. Very nostalgic and vintage vibes all around, suitable for mature refined gentlemen. Enjoy!

Indeed very grand, hard to describe this one but I really do smell every note listed and it comes together to form this syrupy sweet ,yet dark and woody smell. Over time, the woodiness becomes overtaken by a blend of resins and musk , i get a heavy rock rose in the base the next day, will have to try this more, possibly FBW but i need more time 😭

We met him at the fair in Istanbul. We compared this perfume with Lancome Trophee. He gave me 10 ml of the perfume as a gift. I thank him for his generosity. By the way, I learned that he was the son of Dmitry Bornikof. It was not one of the scents we were used to, I liked it.

A rich classical chypre using mostly natural materials which are very well blended and long lasting. An unusual note perhaps, is the liquorice note which is prominent during the middle part.

Phenomenal chypre. The raw materials used in this composition come together beautifully. One of the very best chypre fragrances I've experienced. Classic, old school vibe.

If you're looking for a classic chypre of high quality, look no further than Chypre de Grand. The initial citrus opening quickly gives way to the middle notes, some of which I did not detect. Standing out for me was the rose note, which was prominent, and even showed its face after the drydown. The licorice was subtle and well blended with the other notes. The deer musk and beeswax gave it an animalic touch - present but not overdone. As the base notes appeared, the oakmoss came to the front. Here again, it wasn't overpowering or harsh, just contributing to the blend of the whole and yet, gave it a very masculine character. Chypre de Grand is pretty potent and excellent longevity and projection. It brought to mind Etruscan Water, not because they smell similar, but because it too is a powerful chypre. With EW, I have the impression of a heavier hand in its creation while Chypre de Grand is a classier chypre done with a lighter hand. Of note with this house, the deer musk and oakmoss are the real thing (supposedly) and not smell chems. Regardless, it has a very quality smell without a trace of synthetic harshness. As I have a FB of Etruscan Water, I won't immediately put Chypre de Grand on my shopping list. Once the EW bottle is more used, I might consider adding CdG to my collection. But I can firmly recommend CdG for anyone looking for a very good quality chypre.

Austere liquorice chypre Chypre de Grand unfolds slowly. The citrus opening arrives sharp, almost medicinal, and severe before passing through a humid, balsamic phase where beeswax, styrax, and labdanum darken the composition into something nearly fermented. Then the structure tightens again. Oakmoss, dry woods, and Thai liquorice emerge with an austere elegance that recalls the authority of classical chypres without collapsing into nostalgia. Rich but disciplined, sophisticated without polish, it ultimately settles into a deep, dry and faceted adult register, where a trace of Rose de Mai lingers quietly beneath the moss and woods. A distinctive chypre that rewards patience with delayed seduction.

I immediately smell the spiciness. I think it's from the sourness of the Lime. I think I get Lime most out of the Top notes. Then the Lime starts to tone down. I'm not sure what I smell. Something slightly sweet and Herbal. Probably Licorice? My experience of Licorice is only from the herbal candy. I couldn't detect the Rose, though. I smell Patchouli, and Oakmoss blended together. Real nice. The feeling is almost "Cool". Not sure if this is also the effect of Licorice? Or Patchouli? I feel really calm after sniffing this perfume for a while. Feels like literally walking in a Jungle with mist in the morning.

Lime, Grapefruit, Licorice, Oakmoss, and something chocolatey. The muskiness comes in very shortly after the initial blast. its like an animalic and more complex 7up is what comes to mind when im smelling this. More spicy and interesting. Gonna need to spend some time with this one. Gives me a slight Savitri vibe without being aldehydic and spicy from the cumin.

Prefacing this by saying I'm not accustomed to chypres. I'm not a fan of this but I admit this is very well done. The oakmoss, lime and honey blend in such a seamless way that's quite impressive, but unfortunately this smells both slightly medicinal during the opening and a bit antiquated. There's this cough syrup called Broncolin that I'm reminded of when I smell this, the noticeable differences being textural since that is thick and very sweet, and a lack of eucalyptus here. My favorite facet of Chypre de Grand, however, is the musk. I can't put it into words but the musk used here smells so effortless and perfect, and it integrates with the three notes I mentioned earlier so masterfully, toning down the medicinal edge to the point it's not noticeable anymore. If it wasn't for this muskiness I think I would probably straight up dislike this. The crappy, cheap sample vials used in this set (and by many more houses) will forever be the bane of my existence as an impulsive sample buyer, but performance was pretty abysmal, although I'm sure it's just the atomizer's fault. Projection and sillage are next to nonexistent just like with Ambre de Noir, but unlike that fragrance longevity is poor here, I'm barely 3 hours in and it's already very faint on my arms.

Vintage, classic, heavy, elegant. An (over)abundance of naturals can make a composition feel dense, mudded, and lacking in focus which marrs this slightly but if you are looking for a Great Gatsby of a fragrance that embodies 1920s style then look no further. A fine reconstruction of perfumes from a bygone era. Slightly animalic, with lots of fortitude and density, this requires a LIGHT HAND and crisp cold weather.

If it has musk and licorice - I want to try it... be good to see what others find