Oud Indochine

Maxim Bortnikov loves his Southeast Asian oud. He uses it whenever he can, and, thus far, he displays nothing less than a very keen and unique understanding of how it smells and how to handle it. This said though, Oud Indochine is going to smell extremely familiar to those well-acquainted with the brand's offerings, and then, perhaps, seem a bit repetitive. The oud of Indochine is the exact same one we received in L'Oud Marin for example, however the marine notes are subtracted from Indochine and the chocolate turned down a bit. Additionally, the oud of Indochine has received some gorgeous adornments that when the whole of the perfume is taken-in those adornments aren't readily obvious by comparison, tempting the thought that Bortnikov simply shoved his beloved material into a bottle, gave it a name, and sold it as a fully fledged composition; those little things never distract from the "this is oud, full stop" presentation. However, with close study one realizes just how much time and attention to detail Bortnikov has put into the oud he has reused a few times. That identifiable dedication feels like a labor of love. For all of oud's pushier and difficult elements, I smell love here more than anything else. This theme runs from the top to the bottom of Oud Indochine. The opening is striking and almost blinding in its intensity, but the saffron is exceptional, giving the oud even greater weight and a sense of luxury, and the vanilla is parched and oily but yet adds a gently sweet and nestling quality to the otherwise in-your-face opening. Continue the theme into the resinous heart, chock full of floral and woody labdanum, as incense smoke wafts and caresses to say this is sacred, this is divine. The tasteful sweetness continues with a honey-floral beeswax note that is a warming and golden glow that will make you want to snuggle this character harder and longer. A much-tempered version of the chocolate note of L'Oud Marin begins making its way upwards to help the pleasant sweetness hold, for more luxury and decadence, like handing your someone a Valentine. I'm playing-up the sweeter, snuggly, and compelling finery of the composition but make no mistake that this is still an oud perfume. The striking opening is a convincing stand-in for oud's challenging medicinal-fruity facets; Oud Indochine is quite smoky throughout its life; it brims with plenty of earthiness bordering animalic; the wood is deep, dark, oily, resinous, very serious and seriously prim and regal. This isn't a light-hearted personality, by any means. This isn't an oud perfume for people on-the-fence with oud; as a labor of love for his oud material, this also means that Bortnikov lets the oud be its fully fledged self, beauty and warts and all. I'm quite taken with Oud Indochine. Love, indeed. It puts tiny little butterflies in my stomach and a small smile across my face. Why then am I not sold on a full bottle.... I'm not sure. Yet. It will probably happen. I am surely going to want to revisit this again at some point in the future - probably out of the blue, when some little voice in the back of my head says "mmm, Oud Indochine." Some of this is also just personal preference. I'm not part of the massively growing cult of oudists taking over modern perfumery. As a genre it doesn't make it towards the top of my personal taste preference list. For me then maybe Oud Indochine is less of a loving long-term relationship and more like an affectionate on-again-off-again fling that sort of never ends. It certainly will not be leaving my memory any time soon, that's for sure.

Oud Indochine from Maksim Perfume is masterpiece that will exceed my ability to use words to describe its journey It takes us across many lands via many precious notes that unfold magically over many hours. This experience is not a simple tale to tell. While the experience of moments with Oud Indochine have the linguistic equivalence of a Romantic Ode it also has some epic ambitions in terms of narrative paths that lead to a spiritual journey. It is poetic, mysterious, referential and self-referential, dark, beautiful, playful, delicious, sticky and sublime. It echoes some past creations while also charting its own course in new waters. How can a fragrance accomplish all this? If I knew the answer I would be creating fragrances myself, but I am just a traveler who has set forth and come back from my journeys with this scent over the last two weeks I have owned it. Each time I wear it I discover something new and my admiration grows for the subtlety of its blending. When I put it on before going out for the day, I can know that the scent will still be with me when I walk back in even if hours have passed. In fact, when I walk back in it is as if I am in a sacred space since I can still smell Oud Indochine, but it as expanded and become a gentle mix that is refreshing and almost a bit green. That is saying something since Oud is the big note in this fragrance, yet it changes in ways that I have rarely perceived in any fragrance I am familiar with Oud Indochine is aware of itself as a fragrance. Another way of saying this is that it invokes some of the perfumer’s previous fragrances while also being exceptionally unique. It is also a shape shifter that takes hours to enjoy as it unfolds itself with a long list of notes that are rare and blended to near perfection. There are 15 listed notes for this fragrance 3 of which are Ouds. I love Oud and I must say the blend of rare Ouds here makes this one special for any Oud lover out there. I think there must be well over 1000 Oud fragrances on the market by this point, butthis one needs to be tried to for those looking for something original but also traditional—no easy task for any fragrance. Part of what makes Oud Indochine original is how it takes somewhat a common note like vanilla and lets it interact with Dark Chocolate, Birch Tar Myrrh Beeswax (to name a few) so that what we end up which is a kind of oxymoron: darkly light and lightly dark. The initial few moments basks in its saffron and vanilla and cardamom but the incense and Oud are there but do not overwhelm. This one is not trying to be a beast. It is a refined angelic rather than trying to invoke dark arts. What this means for me is that I feel I can wear it day or night and in throughout the year. Its silage is moderate to strong and it has excellent longevity. I should also mention that the fragrance comes in a beautiful bottle with a wonderful box and a card listing the notes. Nothing has been left to chance with this one. I congratulate Rajesh Balkrishnan and Maksim Bortnikoff on teaming together to create this fragrance which I hope will be nominated for awards this year.

#sotd Oud Indochine by Maksim Perfumes - The Aromatic Alchemist Oud Indochine, crafted by the young and talented Maksim, is a fragrance that will genuinely leave you enchanted – I'm not kidding! As someone who's long admired Dmitry's work, I was excited to dive into Maksim's creation, especially given his collaboration with the renowned Dr. Rajesh Balakrishnan, whose expertise I deeply respect. Thankfully, my high expectations were exceeded. The journey begins with a striking blend of cardamom and saffron, evoking a sense of mystique and strength. The spices are elegant yet bold, making a statement. But just as you're absorbing the initial impact, vanilla swoops in, softening the edges and adding a touch of sweetness to an spicy opening. This introduction is merely a precursor to the magic that unfolds. As the fragrance evolves, the warmth of frankincense emerges, mingling with the rich, resinous labdanum and earthy dampness of myrrh. Beeswax brings a subtle honeyed nuance (a masterstroke), while guaiacwood introduces a woody character which is not only smokey but gives a hint of raw tobacco (which isn't listed). This complex dance of notes creates a truly unique and sensual experience. When Oud Indochine reaches its dry down, the oud really takes over – and it's absolute heaven! The blend of Kinam, Thai, and Hindi oud, wrapped in rich cocoa, is ridiculously addictive. You'll find yourself lost in the scent, wanting more. This fragrance would surely be appreciated by oud enthusiasts and fragrance connoisseurs alike. What truly impresses me is how Oud Indochine continuously unfolds, revealing new facets that cater to diverse tastes. Whether you crave gourmand, oud, spices, or smoky notes, this fragrance has something for everyone. Its remarkable versatility and complexity make it a standout. Plus, its monstrous projection and longevity – 10+ hours on skin and days on clothes – left me stunned. IG-loveforfragrance

At this point, if Rajesh Balkrishnan is involved in a perfume, I will make it a priority to get my nose on it (and I suspect I’m not alone in this thinking). From sought-after grails like Aranyaka and Keman to more recent, but no less distinctive offerings like ARC and REA, Raj has a bit of a Midas touch when it comes to partnering with perfumers who are very talented in their own right, honing in on what they do best, and creating enchanting one-offs with them that go on to become some of each house’s most revered offerings. Oud Indochine finds the Virginia-based perfumer working with Maksim Bortnikoff, son and apprentice of well-known perfumer Dmitry Bortnikoff. It’s a complex, oud-centric perfume with a beautifully nuanced top, evocative heart, and delectably gourmand-leaning base. Upfront, I'm greeted with an articulate blast of the listed top notes: spicy, mysterious cardamom; warm, honeyed, ineffable saffron; cozy and indulgent vanilla. Shifting into the mid, I get a striking interplay between frankincense, guaiac wood, and myrrh that brings to mind aspects of TCM and temple incense, as well as a unique and addictive balsamic/caramelized note. Really quite a lovely heart here – outstanding blending. Various facets of oud are, of course, present throughout the full wear, but the monolith that is agarwood really blooms in the base. I find some overlap with ALD Russian Oud in the dry down, though with a more restrained chocolate/cacao character. I think perhaps the sticky cocoa sweetness is offset by the grounding rustic/leather character of birch tar. Oud Indochine is a bold and engaging wear, and a worthy entry in the fast-growing Balkrishnan oeuvre. Importantly for me, I don’t find it redundant with other ostensibly similar perfumes in my collection – the uniqueness of the top/heart and the quality of the blending overall renders such a concern moot. Review from a graciously provided sample.

Maksim Perfume Review by Goran @perfume_and_style_addict Oud Indochine by Maksim Perfume Oud Indochine by Maksim Perfume is a journey through time and scent this creation is Pure and Perfect. Oud Indochine by Maksim Perfume is a refined fragrance that captivates the senses with its masterful blend of exotic ingredients. The fragrance is crafted by the gifted perfumer Maksim Bortnikov in collaboration with Rajesh Balkrishnan. The extrait de parfum with a high concentration of 25-30% delivers a rich and long lasting fragrance experience that pays homage to the opulent voyages of the 19th century French Indochina trade routes. Oud Indochine opens with a luxurious burst of saffron, cardamom and a hint of vanilla. These top notes create a warm and inviting aura reminiscent of the spices that were traded throughout Asia. As the scent unfolds the heart reveals a complex blend of frankincense, beeswax and myrrh layered with the smoky richness of guaiac wood and labdanum. The middle notes create a smoky, resinous and almost syrupy depth that perfectly balances sweetness and warmth. The dry down is incredibly beautiful and magnificent. The base is an intoxicating blend of Indian, Thai and agarwood oud. These 3 Ouds are interwoven with ambergris and a surprising dark chocolate sweetness. This beautiful gourmand nuance is combined with earthy birch tar and cocoa pod. The scent lingers on the skin and leaves a lasting impression that is both mysterious and refined. Oud Indochine is a tribute to the timeless elegance of Eastern and Western cultures seamlessly blended to create a unique, complex and beautifully balanced scent. Ideal for the true perfume connoisseur this fragrance is a celebration of high quality and honest ingredients that evoke an atmosphere of nostalgia and adventure. @maksimperfume @maksimbortnikoff