Sleight of Fern

Second review two full wears later: The opening is very morning fresh and a testament to the close relation between the fougère category of perfumery and barbershop. Lavender and thyme are quite distinct, together with a source of coumarin that I cannot quite recognise. I love the pun on the fougère that the name carries: A sleight – an illusion – of fern is exactly the artistic imagery of the naturalism art scene in the 1870s from which this category emerged. Historically aesthetics was on its way to evolve Into symbolism and eventually towards impressionism. The thing is that fern smells of very little in and by it self, but the imagery of it is so strong that the sight of the plant is unconsciously connected with the scentscape the observer was in, like the forest bed, the floral coumarin from woodruff, plants that have not yet bloomed, birch trees sprouting, a soil that is still moist after winter and in the midst of the transformation of being the graveyard of yesteryear to becoming the birthplace of the new. Eventually, that is exactly where this Sleight of Fern is taking me: From the bathroom and out in the open, as it transforms into a very nice illusion of exactly that forest. I would personally say it is far from as camphorous as the great original fougères such as Trumper’s Wild Fern or Penhaligon’s. It feels a lot more subdued and elegant, although there is a soothing effect remaining throughout the wearing time. I was at one point unsure if something similar to birch tar would go too far in the direction of rough bitumen, but it remains perfectly in place giving a nice, woody-earthy sting instead. Some people are very specific about when to wear what, but I think a sleight of fern is just what you need in the midst of the winter frost to give you some optimism. It is subtle and well-mannered enough for every occasion throughout the year in fact.

I don’t quite understand the sweetness people are getting from this. The reference to Mousse Illuminee either, and that someone thought it was sweeter than that. Mousse has a sweetness that someone described as being similar to grape. I wouldn’t say that I agree with that 100 percent, but it isn’t a bad description when trying to categorize the note, and that fragrance is the sweetest barbershop type fragrance that I have. To each nose their own, I know we all have a different sense of smell and taste, but to me the frontline notes are very green and herbal. I wouldn’t say there’s zero sweetness to this, maybe in the background/supporting notes; however, I wouldn’t ever describe it as anything but sharp, herbal green. The geranium, thyme, birch and oakmoss are what notes I would say I agree with most, as an overall genre description. That being said, I love this fragrance. It’s so interesting and unique. While I also wouldn’t say that it’s anything like Invasion Barbare, I’m not surprised at all that it’s the same perfumer. I liked Invasion right away, but didn’t love it until a few wears of it. I’d also say in a contest between the two, Invasion would win. That could change in time though, as I’ve had that for a longer period of time than Sleight of Fern. Very good performance and projection on me. Not a safe blind buy, but I would recommend to anyone who likes this genre to give this a try.

I’ve fallen for a fougère (fern) for the first time in my life; and what a formula it is! Absolutely magnificent.... One sniff was enough; then came the sample, and finally, the bottle. It’s a perfect all-season scent. It’s both distant and embracing at once. The combination of red thyme, mastic, and birch makes it magnetic, mysterious, and cold, while a touch of tonka lends a subtle warmth beneath. The heart unfolds with geranium and other solemn florals, grounded by a distinct lavender and a mossy undertone that hints at chypre structure; nostalgic yet modern. I keep mentioning contrasts, but that’s exactly what makes it so beautiful. Catching that hidden mossy character in the base feels rewarding to uncover. Birch and mastic are among my soft sports; they give a fragrance that “a poised and distant kind of beauty” quality and the red thyme (along betula) adds a leathery, enigmatic edge. So many notes sing in harmony here, each with its own voice. Truly unisex. Longevity and projection are moderate, but with a few extra sprays, it reaches its full potential. My partner and I both wear it. A “dark warmth” I’m truly grateful to have discovered. Tag(s): Enigmatic, austere, dark warmth, mysterious, chypre-fougère

Reviewing sample from 2023. Slight of Fern was launched in 2022. This is a savory faintly floral fougere. Spectacular herbal opening - mostly red thyme, the lavender is subtle. The bergamot and fig are barely there. The mastic adds freshness and a resinous undertone. I then sense suede although there is no leather in the notes . There are some possible sources- perhaps birch peaking through from the basenotes or maybe the thyme or narcissus both of which can have leather facets. After some time, the florals start to bloom -mostly geranium. I don't know where the tuberose has gone. The drydown is a pleasant mix of faded florals , patchouli and aromatic woods. This fragrance is neither sweet, powdery or smoky. Beautifully blended and creative. Quality - excellent 4/5 Unisex Performance -very good 4/5 Innovative take on a fougere. Yes, this is definitively a slight of fern .Unique, modern and versatile. As with all unique niche fragrances testing on your skin is advised even with a beautiful fragrance like this. 8.8/10

update: would make an excellent signature scent, maybe 25 years plus, doesn't smell dated at all but smells "manly,mature" a "boss/ceo" scent wow this is badass! modern twist on "classic" green scents.. captivating blend here that also smells great. I could see this being a Creed relese.. as it smells like a mix BDP, Royal Water, Royal Mayfair, GIT, some of the slightly odd cleaness from Viking too. I mean that all in the best way possible, like if Creed would have smelled this they would have slapped Oliver as a co perfume and payed up. Out the gate actually reminded me of absinthe from Wolfsbane by parfums cortana? dry down kinda smells like it too but not the mid really. Something if you did an initial spray of and asked most woemen they would probably say no, BUT if you were to be walking by and smell this in the air no way it wont grab attention, mysterious, alluring. I gotta get a bottle.

Heavily discounted, this was my first blind purchase in ever so long. 25% concentration is quite something for the 60 euros I paid, but the bottle is rather small at 35ml. First impressions are absolutely in line with most things being said here. It opens as a very elegant and understated pseudo-fougère and focuses on aromatic and spicy aspects rather than barbersoap and so could more easily fall into the unisex category. It seems proper to say “more male” however, because there are lots of nods to the classic fougère here. Year around, signature scent kind of perfume for a man. For a woman, it would be a lot more of a statement kind of scent I’d say, some would probably choose it for events only.

Sleight of Fern is a wonderful, classic aromatic fougere with a modern, somewhat smokey twist. It's absolutely captivating, and it wears nicely on the skin. When I first smelled this, I was immediately reminded of Dakar by Al-Rehab. This, however, is a significantly higher level of quality. Perfect for a gentleman who like a nice fougere for the spring season.

A distant cousin of Invasion Barbare (same perfumer). A bit lighter, friendlier due to a rich floral bouquet, therefore not quite as fierce. In a way, an Invasion Barbare for daytime. Very nice!

Many fougeres are extremely dated, cloying or otherwise irritating, especially the overbearing lavender. This one is a modern gem with great balance. As always excellent quality from MM.

Easy to wear, beautiful fragrance. Reminds of Invasion Barbare, but lighter. I feel also a close resemblance to Rive Gauche.

Invasion Barbare - what about a collaboration with a niche brand like Masque, following this excellent fougere fragrance? Stephanie Bakouche now pays homage to the classic fougere, reviving the retro trend. Sleight of Fern highlights the charm of ferns, softer and more sensual than Invasion Barbare, Sleight of Fern is still a rich and deep fragrance fragrance, not so much inheriting the blood of Invasion Barbare, as close to the relationship of twin brothers . The top note of Sleight of Fern is spicy but not dry, getting rid of the common drawbacks of lavender. Frankincense, bergamot and fig are all modified with French lavender and thyme. Due to the good texture, the top note performance can be described as first-class. Invasion Barbare is handsome, and Sleight of Fern has its own unique and wonderful feel, all the nuances and subtleties to be experienced. When it comes to the middle notes, I found that tuberose has no chance to make a big splash, including geranium and narcissus, which only provide their own characteristics, Sleight of Fern does not care about this. The floral fragrance is cut across the board, allowing the olfactory senses to lead directly to patchouli, where it touches the base note (core note). Tonka bean has a smooth and creamy texture with oriental notes, cedar, patchouli, and the sweet scent of birch associated with leather, which creates the illusion of this leather. According to Stephanie Bakouche, her passion for patchouli is indescribable, she loves spicy woods, cardamom, cumin, and she is fascinated by the leather side of narcissus, its amazing complexity, Invasion Barbare or 2022 The Sleight of Fern is clearly a collection of elements she loves! Given that Stephanie Bakouche is a member of the Osmotheque, she can smell the masterpieces of the past at any time, and endlessly learn, imitate, and improve.

Initial impressions from sample: I find this a hard fragrance to grasp. I think I understand its purpose: to create a "fougere-like" fragrance with notes that are not traditionally used. And I do perceive that when I smell this, I'm picking up on nuances that are unique to the fougere genre (e.g. medicinal lavender that has been smoothened by slightly sweet but waxy or rubbery florals like narcissus and tuberose). However there are times where I smell wafts in the air and it does resemble what I expect from a fougere (e.g. spicy, sharp but rosy geranium that has been incredibly softened by a coumarin-like, shaving foam smell). And still, I have picked up on different nuances the two separate times I've worn it thus far. I definitely got a sweetness resembling the fig note the first time I wore it...not so much the second time. I can see this being polarizing and not for everybody...but to me, this one makes me second-guess what I'm smelling...it intrigues me. I might get a full bottle on that basis alone.

A very pleasant fragrance to wear. I think if I understand correctly the goal was to modernize the Fougère, and they accomplished that. The creamy, sweet, and doughy notes of narcissus and tuberose give the heart and base of Sleight of Fern a very fresh, friendly and unisex feel. What’s interesting to me is that where some people might actually have the most issue with the aromatic qualities of lavender and geraniums in a typical fougere, rather than run from that the perfumer leaned into it here, supplementing their aromatics with thyme, and mastic. It’s peppery and almost fiery in the open, and so energetic. The satiny feeling of the florals and the gentle wood in the heart and the dry down tone that peppery feeling down a bit as the fragrance ages on the skin but it never goes away completely, and so Sleight of Fern keeps its feeling of sweet green energy the entire 7-8 hours it lasts on skin.

Sleight of Fern is soft green fragrance, sweetness and mintiness emanating from rain drenched leaves and bright stems. The mix of moss and wood anchors underfoot while the mix of herbal and floral notes intertwine above. This reminds me a lot of Rogue Mousse Illuminee. Sleight of Fern is sweeter, less mossy, and has a lighter camphor-like quality. If Mouse Illuminee is the cool air hovering just above the forest floor, Sleight of Fern is the breeze caught in the branches of the trees above.

The thyme is the strongest on my skin which is such an interesting mint-adjacent scent, green-ish even. Next the oakmoss comes through, I don't seem to smell any of the tonka or fig but the geranium is definitely loud! Reminds me of working in the garden store in my teens putting out the geranium plants on the shelves. The mastic is fantastic, really resinous and aromatic, almost masculine leaning. Super herbal, super relaxing and very mature.

This is the most unique fougere that I own. It smells like a dewey forest floor as you step out of your tent barefoot into a moss bed at sunrise. I can't say that I particularly care for the scent as a fragrance, but I respect the mastery that it took to make this blend.

I blind bought a 30 ml bottle hoping for another modern fougère. After all, the This perfume reminds me of section is dominated by Invasion Barbare by MDCI and Fougère L'Aube by Rouge. Once it arrived, however, I quickly realized it belongs to a rather different family. The fragrance is almost entirely linear. From the first spray, it's a spicy, minty, woody composition. To my nose, the overall structure feels like Five by FZOTIC marrying Geranium pour Monsieur by Frederic Malle. That combination works remarkably well, and it's easily my favorite aspect of the fragrance. Unfortunately, another accord runs alongside it: a woody-spicy, faintly incense-like note that reminds me of the kind of base often found in Adidas deodorants and lower-end mainstream fragrances. During the cooler months, I found it distracting enough to overshadow the rest of the composition. Interestingly, after setting the bottle aside for a few months and revisiting it in the peak of summer, that accord became much less intrusive. Extreme heat seems to soften its impact, allowing the mint and aromatic facets to breathe. Even so, I still can't shake the feeling that this extra woody-spicy layer is unnecessary. The brand describes this facet as birch, perhaps aiming to evoke the smoky character of birch tar. To my nose, however, it comes across as synthetic incense and ultimately detracts from what is otherwise a very enjoyable aromatic structure. Despite my reservations, I still appreciate the central idea behind the fragrance. Had that woody-spicy accord been toned down, this could easily have been one of my favorite contemporary fougères. Rating: 6.5-7/10

Sleight of Fern has a sheer, almost invisible opening, nothing but a bit of transparent sparkle; then there’s a pleasant, subdued dusty-gold crackle of herbs and woods, a style of earthy-dry lavender I’ve always enjoyed. an hour or so in there’s also a cool dewy green halo around it; that might be the promised fig (leaf) and mastic. I don’t really get the true, distinctively “cooling” anise-like smell of mastic; just a juicy pale-green aura over the herbal-woody core. and then the green phase fades & Sleight of Fern dries down to a bone-dry, classy, bitter-herb-and-wood base. It’s very faint and subtle throughout. a nice classic lavender fougere, golden brown and pale green, theoretically masculine but works fine on me. Nothing too far out of the ordinary; just a stylish, relaxed guy. like a lot of recent Masque Milano scents, though, it’s quite low in concentration, which is a bit frustrating at the price point. At €145 for 35 mL (that would be $465.51 for a normal-sized 100 mL bottle) you expect to actually be able to smell your perfume. Sleight of Fern is nice, but in a way that most masculine scents from the 80s or earlier are, and you can do better for yourself on eBay.

This is a pleasant soft-focus fougere, buoyant and sweet—perhaps just a bit too sweet for what I expect from a fougere. I have a penchant for mastic resin (I am crazy for Sisley Eau D'Ikar) but its been rounded here just a bit too much for my taste. I do appreciate the impressionistic florals in the heart, but something about this fougere just feels just a bit too "ready for mainstream" for me to connect with it. Inoffensive may be the word. If it were a bit more earthy, mossy, and damp, perhaps even some of that old school amyl salicylate, this would be much more appealing to me. Something about it just falls flat to my nose, it lacks an effervescence and vitality or something.

The opening feels foresty, cool, minty, and slightly sharp, led by an herbal thyme note with a reddish, almost spicy tone. Birch quickly follows, bringing a dry, faintly smoky leather nuance, while mastic adds a crisp, resinous clarity that keeps everything feeling airy rather than heavy. Beneath it all, a soft layer of tonka slowly appears, giving the composition a smooth, lightly sweet warmth that rounds out the edges. I would say this is a masculine-leaning fragrance. I feel like Oriza’s fragrances encapsulate this vision better in a more unisex or feminine way, while Sleight of Fern is for the guys. A fresh spring fragrance with moderate projection and longevity.