Falcon Leather

A leather fragrance inspired by a falconers’ gloves. In Falcon Leather, Guichard utilises Birch Tar sourced from Finland to explore the powerfully smoky qualities of leather. The opening of Falcon Leather is characterised by a diffusive cloud of smoke accented by glimmers of sharp piquancy. Raw earthy smokiness is pushed forward by saffron in the opening that is counterbalanced by the rounded sweetness of cistus labdanum and benzoin in the dry-down. In wearing Falcon Leather, I am reminded of the idiom ‘less is more’. For me, the beauty of the fragrance really lies in its simplicity. By keeping the composition rather streamlined, Guichard not only allows the quality of the raw materials to speak for themselves, but equally serves to keep the focus solely on leather throughout the life of the fragrance. The result is a fragrance that is the perfect exemplar of leather. Expert craftsmanship and an unpretentious approach to perfumery are the foundational bedrock of Matière Premiere. This is what I have grown to love about the brand. Guichard doesn’t attempt to hind behind an unnecessarily complex note breakdown, or flamboyant packaging. Rather the collection is a showcase and celebration of his pure talent, and I am keeping a keen eye on the brand. From an unrestrained animalic leather, that evolves to a plush suede like finish, Falcon Leather is a beautiful exploration of leather that could be loved by anyone and could easily be layered with any simple fruit-forward or floral fragrance if you so wanted to. In terms of performance, Falcon Leather lasts 6-8 hours on my skin, with a moderate-heavy sillage that drops closer to skin around the 3 hour mark. The fragrance is unisex leaning masculine, and incredibly versatile too. I really could see myself reaching for this year round, and for any occasion.

Falcon Leather is one of the most interesting Matière Première scents, and truly grabs my attention from the beginning. Dark, dry and quite beguiling, FL is an unusual take on the leather note. It has a very different vibe to say, Grès Cabochard, another leather scent I enjoy - Cabochard is a worn, brown leather couch, comforting and familiar in contrast to the smoky danger of FL. Smoky, ambery and earthy, FL is unisex, more conceptual and artistic than wearable. FL reminds me of a biker bar - dimmed lighting, worn black leather, a haze of cigarette smoke and spilled whiskey. FL opens with a realistic, dry, smoky leather accord. The leathery opening is bolstered by a slightly sweet ambery accord thanks to the saffron and labdanum, and the birch tar makes its presence felt very quickly. There is a hint of spice too. Overall, it is earthy and bittersweet, smooth despite the smokiness. It becomes slightly peppery as it develops, with birch tar as the dominant note. This makes for a nose-tickling combination. The amber lasts, giving a balsamically sweet undertone as it dries down, thanks in part to the benzoin. The use of oud here is inspired - I don't always love oud, but here it is dry and woody rather skankily animalic, contributing to the leather accord in the drydown. FL is fairly linear - smoky, resinous leather until it fades. Sillage is good, and longevity is excellent. Interesting and creative, there is much to appreciate here. One of my favourites from Matière Première. A must try for leather lovers, this could be a successor of sorts to the ingenious Bvlgari Black. 4.5/5.

Tuscan Leather, Godolphin, Ombre Leather, all but more delightful with a twist and a hideous opening, but the dry down is one of the best leathers ever. I don't get Terroni, but I do get his Cuoium (Orto Parisi) a bit. This is one of the best leathers out there, but it drives me mad that I have to cross reference it to their Crystal Saffron, which I actually like more. I have both; Crystal Saffron and Falcon Leather FBs, so I can't see them as being redundant, although this has a really hideous opening that does make me think of an old used Falcon Leather Glove, but it does go away within 20 minutes or so, and can only be smelled close-up where it nearly singes your nostrils and attempts to force you to projectile vomit. But wait....it really gets better enough to wait for it... Masculine leaning, I would not want to smell this on my other half, which is rare for me to say, as I don’t like putting a gender to fragrances, however this can be layered with something softer, which a woman could pull off. Needless to say, unless you love the fragrances this is likened to, it's not a safe blind buy, and is not office safe, the only times of year I'd not wear it is in high heat. The only fragrance I'd say that beats this is B683 Extrait.

I like leather. I like that as an animalic note it is oddly considered one of the more pedestrian and normal notes. Possibly because it is so common in everyday. I really like leather as a note and this fragrance though no mention of the note of leather, does have the lovely note of birch tar; and yes! That note is manipulated brilliantly to represent that worn, weather beaten and rough leather. This is not a leather treated and cosseted to become a jacket or fine piece of clothing. This is a leather that was created for a functional item, built for strength and longevity. And the representation of the fragrance is just that. It is a scent built for longevity and strength. It harkens back to stronger more masculine scents of the 70s and early 80s. There's a hairy-chestedness to this, a macho man callous-handed working man of the old school. There's an odd nutty feature in this though, I can sense a creamy nut element. This is not enough to put me off it though as its only ever present when I smell this off a test strip, on skin that 'nutty' element is not so present, on skin this is a warm brusque leather. On skin there a lush smoke and leather, there's a sweetness and dry presence. But it remains very masculine and big.

Matiere Premiere - Falcon Leather The first Harrods Exclusive by the brand. This is a stunning birch tar and you can feel a hint of oud it’s either authentic or a quite believable accord. The fragrance to be honest pretty much skips the top notes and goes into the heart and dry down. Giving you a genuine impression of sniffing supple leather of the finest quality. As I’ve said in my review of the extrait they are similar slightly but wear totally differently the edp is the bad boy in a biker jacket and the extrait is all suited up. So think of it as this Batman and the extrait is the Bruce Wayne. Years after sampling Falcon Leather it remained in my mind and luckily I hadn’t bought a bottle for a while and waited for the hype to pass. Still loved it even after getting Oud Seven I enjoyed this still! So when the extraits came out and I sniffed the extrait I realized the edp is where my heart belongs. Snapped a bottle up quickly. Tonight is a summer night but I’m staying and enjoying this one a little early this year. Total stunner! Scent 10/10 It’s considered by many to be a modern leather masterpiece. Sillage 8.5/10 Value 10/10 if at discounters! Can be had for around $140 for 100ml

The old feminine floral leathers like Jolie Madame and Cabochard were never really my thing. I think I was a gourmand girl in waiting 🙃...then assuming I'd love the fabled Chanel’s Cuir de Russie from the Exclusives I found it was a poopy 😫 on me. But...I realised I love the birch tar chord, plain, somewhat thinned by lots of air under its wings, basically unadorned, woody and outdoorsy. It was sampling the beautiful Aventus when I had my epiphany a couple of years ago, but like Tuscan Leather and Ombré Leather, it belongs with the guys. I thought, that beautiful birch note is just treated too mannish for me personally. I know it became associated with ‘leather’ because of tanning, yet to me it comes from the forest. I’ve had the sample set from Matiere Premiere for a year, giving Falcon a distracted sniff or two, still thinking it’s still too masculine. This winter has rolled around and I finally gave it a proper wear. I’ve now got the teensy bottle, probably won’t size up, but I will ALWAYS want to be able smell this. It is stunning. I see the falcon’s wings, and Winters smoke, but not a glove.

Oh Man, it's simply beautiful. Falcon Leather is a marvel of harmonically co-existing dualities. Furthermore, Aurelien Guichard expertly transformed his star, plant-derived ingredient into a fully satisfying, well-rounded leather note that is not devoid of animalic undertones. The fragrance opens with a robust, virile leather accord that is bound to turn heads: the birch tar shines in all its phenolic, smoky/woody glory, its wildness paradoxically both tamed and accentuated by the warmth of saffron and the leathery beauty of labdanum; meanwhile, its charred woodiness is boosted by mystical oud and earthy patchouli, with some clove-like spicy touches. The composition significantly mellows as soon as the balsamic sweetness of the amber accord emerges: lactonic benzoin and creamy vanilla interact with the ever-present labdanum, transforming the initially raw leather into buttery, sophisticated suede. The fragrance evolves from primordially carnal to deliciously sensual, making its long journey on the skin thoroughly exciting. Sillage is strong and with good longevity.

I wouldn’t call this having the Tuscan leather note, it’s not as harsh. The leather is front and centre and the smokiness lingering in the background with a slight sweetness from the saffron and benzoin. In the late dry down I get reminded of Davidoff leather blend, this is very similar, if leather blend actually has a steering leather note in it. Great stand alone leather scent but I’ve also been using it as a base to other frags for layering as it works well in adding some leather and smokiness. Performance is above average. It’s a great fragrance but if you have tons of leather centric fragrances you really won’t be missing too much if you pass on this one. 7/10 Update: Okay shouldn’t write reviews so early into getting a fragrance. Wearing this a week straight now and yeah really loving it. Doesn’t remind me much of leather blend anymore. In short, bubble gum, birch tar, leather. Beauty blend. 9/10

Very similar to Tuscan Leather, minus the raspberry note. I don't find this animalic, and the saffron is not prevalent. It's super leathery, smoky, with incense in the background. Very linear, which I don't mind in this case. Longevity is pretty great. I can still smell it at the end of the day, and I might be nose blind to it, but other people have told me it's strong many, many hours after applying, and I'm pretty light with application (2-3 sprays). I think if you're familiar with either Ombre Leather or Tuscan Leather you could safely blind buy this. I wanted a super leather dominant fragrance to round out my collection, and having recently tried Encens Suave, I was curious about this one, and not disappointed. Totally worth a shot. Scent 9/10 Longevity: 10/10 Projection: 8/10 Full bottle? Yes. If you're looking for a staple, go-to leather scent in your lineup, this is a solid bet.

I really love how saffron-forward this perfume smells on me! Yes, it's primarily a leather fragrance, but there's a gentle elegance and complexity here that makes Falcon Leather stand out from the pack. I find that it has nuclear longevity on skin and especially on clothing. In spite of being so potent, this is a leather perfume that avoids treading into the unfortunately all-too-common pitfalls of smelling obnoxious and/or overly busy. The innate luxury of saffron as a spice just elevates the experience of wearing Falcon Leather into a real treat for the senses. The particular leather accord utilized here is soft, supple, creamy, and smooth. I think a person of any gender presentation could wear this perfume with comfort and confidence. It's well suited to cold weather. While it does smell niche, I feel that it remains palatable to the masses and wears nicely in mixed company.

When I want to smell like a Kazakh falconer hunting horseback on a Mongolian steppe, I reach for Falcon Leather. The way that each of the notes work to make a heady and dank leather accord is so rewarding, both in terms of meeting appellative expectations and as an example of perfume artistry. The primal birch tar is perfectly complemented by the saffron and oud so as not to be too overpowering. The labdanum and benzoin add just a tease of sweetness, and once the tar has eased off a touch this becomes so comforting. Like other MP fragrances, it smells fresh, organic, and crafted with high-quality ingredients that make it sophisticated and elegantly animalic but not dirty. Essential for the collection of any leather enthusiast; for anyone wanting to smell smoky but not campfire smoky; or for escapism when your stupid government won't let you keep an actual falcon.

My first exposure to the house of Matiere Premiere and... it was love at first smell. One of the most authentic, realistic, smoothest leathers I’ve ever smelled. You really feel like you’re walking into a fine leather store, a boot or saddle store. The best part is that it doesn’t have the headache inducing sweetness of the Tom Ford leathers. For me, the saffron/labdanum note (masquerading as leather) opens so nicely and is just so pleasing. As others have mentioned and the house is known for, the leather is linear and just lasts. I get 8-10 hours minimum. To date, the feedback I’ve received is not asking if I’m wearing a frag, but where the leather is that smells so good. That’s a winner for me. This one is an all day/all season for me. Not to dark or heavy to wear in summer and not to heavy to wear during the day at the office.

Just tried this one so this is a first impression, but this is a nice rugged smoky leather with a semi creamy background. In the same family as gucci guilty absolute but not the same profile. If you aren't a leather lover (I am) this is not for you, but if you like leather forward scents this would be a nice edition. It is also very smoky especially in the dry down, in a ashy sense, not in a tobacco leaf sense, which I again dig but not everyone will. It smells of quality, and is full masculine. One thing I like about the profile is it doesn't seem to be a massive projector, so you wont be bombing the room, but I am detecting a nice consistent scent bubble. I think the name suits this fragrance. Can't comment on longevity yet as it's a first impression but I will update. Edit: longevity is good, I get around 8 hours.

I consider this fragrance a masterpiece, it is definitely not suitable for mass appeal or blind buying. It represents a man overflowing with testosterone, powerful, dark, and intensely masculine. It has a character that is both complex and straightforward at the same time. It evokes a man who drives a Range Rover, usually wears black suits, is deeply devoted to his work and family, yet remains tough, charismatic, and sharp-edged. To me, it also recalls the scent of the leather seats in an expensive luxury car. It may not appeal to everyone, but I believe women who are drawn to strongly masculine attitudes will absolutely love this fragrance. It is luxurious, smoky, dark, and smells like a man who means what he says, someone who dominates the room the moment he enters, commanding respect without a word.

Being a fanboy of Aurélien Guichard, discovering that he created Matière Première was pure joy, his own perfume house! At the time, I was on the hunt for a leather fragrance, as my partner was very much into that scent profile. When I first smelled Falcon Leather, I was overwhelmed, it is one of the strongest perfumes I have ever smelled. And it is beautiful. The closest scent to gorgeous, luxurious leather I have ever experienced, leather perfection. The way it smells is smooth, dark, soft, and polished, with added smokiness and just a hint of sweetness. The way he blended the notes is close to witchcraft, so much talent. Sexy, seductive, and powerful. That’s how it makes me feel, and this perfume gives me confidence. Thank you for such a beautiful creation.

Oh, my! Dark, brutal, intense, yet exquisitely refined, Falcon Leather needs the right wearer. Not everyone has the gravitas personality to pull it off. Fortunately for me, my husband wears it fabulously well. (And if he didn't, I would.) The birch tar note is vivid, which can be a bit polarizing for people unfamiliar with or not a fan of its industrial traits. Falcon Leather is the most aggressive during the first hour or two. Once the birch tar settles, the labdanum, benzoin, and oud emerge, creating something more alluring and sensual. At this stage, it’s the olfactory equivalent of a strong, silent type of person whose intense gaze can captivate the object of their interest with only a look – no posturing, peacocking, or conversation required.

I normally agree with most people descriptions of fragrances, but want to clarify a few things that are solely of my opinion. This is not a heavy leather fragrance. The leather here is airy and is supporting the birch, which is the much louder note. This has no relation to Tuscan Leather at all. Leather can be used in many different ways, but this is certainly not TL-like. It’s a unique fragrance that has some smokiness, buts it’s a soft and delicate smokiness, not a loud and screeching smokiness like say Interlude Man. Performance is outstanding. This house is doing great things when it comes to the ingredients of their fragrances, which is why people are flocking to them in the community.

Part of me wants to give a bad review just to gatekeep this fragrance. Falcon Leather is absolutely stunning, to qoute my barber "you smell like a million dollars". It is one of the very very few perfumes I have that consistently gets compliments. I have been stopped walking down the road, I cannot leave the house with this on without asking someone asking me what I am wearing. For me, I get this sexy, woodsy slightly slightly sweet leather fragrance. Silllage is enormous without being overbearing - its very much a "money talks, wealth whispers" vibe, people can smell you and they love it - but you're not giving anyone a headache. 10/10 my signature scent forever.

This stuff is good!!! Falcon Leather just made me feel like I don't have to desperately search for a leather-resembling scent anymore. I have tried many leather scents, among which: - Maison Crivelli, Cuir Infrarouge; - Naomi Goodsir, Cuir Vélours; - Jo Malone, Bronze Wood & Leather; - Cuir Beluga; - Chanel, Le Lion. I find "Falcon Leather" the most realistic out of the leather fragrances. Maison Crivelli did a good job at creating another leather and saffron fragrance, but Materière Prèmiere simply projects better on me. If you prefer Maison Crivelli, any recent MC will do, as Cuir Infrarouge, Oud Maracuja and Safran Secret all smell extremely similar.

This is the fragrance equivalent of Jack Nicholson's speech in A Few Good Men. You’re telling the world you go your own way, and that you don’t give a damn about their herd-hugging opinions, and they respect you more for it! Did Jimmy Hendrix ask permission before he launched into Voodoo Child? Did Mike Tyson apologize before he entered the ring? You already know the answer! How can you be remembered if you never left a mark? A scar? A heartbreak? This is a legendary scent! So dripping with masculinity you’ll send those Creed Aventus boys into anaphylactic shock!!! Give it time to seduce you. An absolute Sigma Male masterpiece of a fragrance!!!