Enlevement au Serail

While I think Francis Kurkdjian is one of the most overhyped noses today, I am grateful he left us some truly amazing perfumes before he tasted commercial success with Baccarat Rouge. Back when he was still loyal to the creative endeavor and less to how well sales did. He definitely has lots of talent and potential. I only wish that he’d be doing more work under others’ creative guidance (Oh Malle, where art thou?). Enlèvement au Sérail is one such accomplished perfume, at least to my nose. Created under Claude Marchal’s creative guidance for MDCI Parfums back in 2006. I can’t see Francis releasing something like this on his own accord. It took me years to track down this perfume, which was discontinued around 2013, when IFRA imposed severe regulations. At that time, Claude Marchal and Kurkdijan worked to reformulate it accordingly and make it compliant. Ultimately, none of the attempts satisfied the creative director; thus, the decision to discontinue the perfume was taken. The perfume can be classified as a Floral-Oriental, with a vague chypre-like vibe, although I never quite got a true chypre quality from it. To me, it feels like a modern take on Rochas’ Femme. Not as spicy and fruity, more delicate and smooth, without the smoky leather. I still perceive a faint fruity quality and an Oriental floral bouquet resting on a woody base, most notably sandalwood. There is a powdery, velvety-like texture resembling vintage perfumes (Oriental Chypres), but ultimately lacks that easily recognizable oakmoss signature. If it was employed in the formula, it was not meant to be a main player. The sandalwood in the base dominates: spicy, sweet, with a nice dusty quality, blending well with the exotic florals. Another classic perfume that might come to mind is Guerlain’s Samsara. Undoubtedly vintage, Oriental, and passionate, it does justice to the play that inspired it, "Die Entführung aus dem Serail" by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. In 2023, Claude Marchal surprised me by disclosing that Enlèvement au Sérail is back after a decade-long absence. I could not believe it. First, I was doubtful that he’d resurrect such a fragrance in an era where people lost their taste for such scents. However, I reminded myself that Claude was never focused on sales, and that if he wanted to release a perfume, he’d do it out of passion. Second, I was skeptical whether the new version would closely resemble the original. Not because of the formula constraints. Since 2013, perfumery has come a long way, and there are many ways now to bypass IFRA regulations and even use oakmoss and other regulated materials. I was uncertain whether Claude and Kurkdijan (who created the new version) would remain faithful to the original idea behind Enlèvement au Sérail, one that most likely won't reach a large audience today. With much trepidation, I sprayed the 2023 version at Jovoy’s, expecting the worst and receiving the best news. It was as I remembered it, Enlèvement au Sérail. And I am inclined to credit this successful resurrection to Claude, rather than to Kurkdijan, who likes to overdo it when it comes to “modernizing” a scent (look what he is doing with poor Dior). Since then, I have collected several mini splash bottles of the new version, and I think it is very true to the original. I might even prefer it slightly over the old one, with Jasmine now the most prominent floral note (as opposed to Tuberose), the dirty aspects amped up by the addition of indoles, and the slight shift in texture, which now feels more dusty than creamy. I admit, I was skeptical it would return in its former glory, but I am glad to be proven wrong. Enlèvement is certainly the most vintage-feeling perfume in the MDCI line, and while it might not appeal to the average perfume enthusiast nowadays, I’m certain it will find much love and appreciation in select circles. IG:@memory.of.scents

Oh, this is so lovely. A really beautiful, classy and timelessly elegant fragrance. To me, this opens with heady peach and floral notes which seem to become bolder rather than lighter. It reminds me slightly of two other fragrances - Miss Dior Cherie - but Enlevement is far more vibrant with much greater potency, and Robert Piguet's Fracas. However, whereas Fracas is a very heavy tuberose, the tuberose in Enlevement is sufficient to lend a floral creaminess which is never overpowering but unmistakably present. It is gently sweet in an exotic and fruity way - the sweetness is mellow and refined. Later, I get a whiff of powdery rose which I simply love (I have a weakness for powdery fragrances such as LV's Teint de Neige). I could see a serenely beautiful woman adorning herself with this on her wedding day (maybe like Audrey Hepburn in Funny Face when Fred Astaire finds her in the little church garden).....Ahhh, pure elegance in a bottle....

Enlevement au Serail is a stunning floral, one which really celebrates feminine beauty in its most gentle and delicate form. Serail is French for Seraglio, which is a term used for the women’s quarters in an Ottoman palace - a strange yet fitting environment to picture yourself in when smelling this. Jasmine is the star here - and whilst perhaps not the best jasmine I’ve ever smelled, it’s certainly one of the most realistic; it smells like a juvenile blossom which has just made its debut into the morning sun. This is surrounded by bouquets of tuberose and ylang, which provides a gentle creamy facet alongside soft woods and patchouli. If you love florals, especially jasmine, then this is really one to make sure you don’t skip. It flies under the radar amongst MDCI’s bigger offerings, but it’s not less beautiful. The only downside is the longevity, but considering the composition you can’t really complain about it.

A fantastic, rich and classic queen-like oriental flower filled with loads of high quality ylang ylang and jasmine. This smells very heavy, so apply with caution as a little bit goes a long way. It started with loads of buttery ylang ylang and soon was joined by a beautiful jasmine which here is top quality and extremely well blend in the composition. The scent itself balances on being warm and buttery to being cold and distant as vetiver and rose on me gives this rather cold and green vibe now and then. Actually quality wise this reminds me a bit of perfumes by Amouage, the richness of "Enlevement au Serail" is surely something that one must be amazed about. If you love big orientals, if you love classic power fragrances do try this. This is a wonderful beauty.

This is a beautiful experience in creamy floral expression. When I first sampled this I knew I had to own it. A dear fragrance friend had sent me a sample as I had been on the hunt for animalic and I immediately fell head over heels. Intoxicating is a word that comes to mind. I don't find myself able to pull apart the individual notes as they are expertly blended. I spent quite lot of time tracking down a large decant. By the time I discovered it, it had already been discontinued. How disappointing! But here is a twist, I later tried a vintage PDT of Rochas Femme and found a huge similarity. Of course, there is a sharper edge to RF due to the Oakmoss and Patchouli but if you can't find EAS, the floral part of RF is remarkably similar.

I've had a mini bottle in my stash for ~ 4-5 years now. This is a very old-school evocative beauty IMO. The Ylang Ylang, citrus and sandalwood meld beautifully into skin. I was debating with myself if this reminded me more of Rochas Femme or Chanel #5 EDC (my favorite formulation of #5). So I broke down and compared notes between #5 EDC and EaS and sure enough, they share 8 notes. If I may tip my hat to Dr B1414, their review made my dive into my stash to find EaS, shame on me for ignoring this beauty for far too long. If you happen to be a fan of the old school beauties from Rochas or Chanel do sample this. It should not be overlooked. An absolute delight.

I don't know why this is still marked as discontinued as the brand is doing it. It is a stunning floral. I literally imagine the softest mature pink color when i think of this perfume and the perfume itself is that same color. It is beautiful white flowers, very elegant and definitely worth the purchase. This doesn't scream, it is not right up in your face but it has a weight. It is feminine indeed but even as a man I enjoy wearing it. For all my floral dudes out there, this is worth smelling. The only pity is the longevity - doesn't last on my skin. What is the story with Francis K.? Most of what he seems to be doing lately has no longevity.

a girlbo$$ perfume absolutely. this WILL be my go to floral to end all florals once i have disposable lawyer income. it has everything i love in an older vintage scent but modernized, undusted, what i am telling myself is an accurate depiction of what my vintage flea market minis once smelled like when they were still new. it's fresh and lively while still carrying statuesque weight of deep, strong, rich florals. as other people are saying, if you love Rochas Femme you will love this. i wish more people could appreciate scents like this without immediately calling them grandmotherly and writing them off.

Enlevement au Serail, "The Abduction from the Seraglio", is the name of an opera composed by Mozart. I'd classify it as floral oriental rather than chypre. It opens with a cloud of mixed spicy florals, ylang-ylang, jasmine sambac and roses, followed by mixed woody notes with a touch of green. After 30 minutes, it settles into a warm, powdery, creamy scent with a touch of sweetness, quite close to the skin. I smell a faint patchouli (I am a patchouli later) in the drydown but it's very rounded and mixed well with sandalwood and vanilla. Medium sillage and longevity.

MDCI - never cheap, but usually good value! I have several different MDCI perfumes (this; Invasion Barbare; Chypre Pallatin; Promesse l'Aube) - and whilst this is more feminine than unisex, it is something to be sprayed and adored (even if not worn!) by me. Surprised it was discontinued (didn't sell?) as, despite the silly name, the smell is rich and warm like a cashmere stole.

(repost) I guess I needed to let my sample 'air out' a bit, because with the second wearing, which I used a heavier hand with, this fragrance really came to life. It is much warmer and complex, and I am able to pick out my beloved orange note. I think people who are a fan of the vintage Guerlains would really like this one.

My favorite ylang-sandalwood fragrance, it's one of the only fragrances out there that highlights ylang alone very well both initially and in the dry down. The price for a bottle, however, is pure criminal. Oh well, time to pay my yearly Francis Kurkdjian tax.

I am selling the bottle 150 GBP with 2-3 ml used. offer available. The UK only. DM me if you are interested.

I would use the word delicate to describe the smell of this fragrance. The first spritz was rather harsh to my nose, did I imagine aldehydes? Very possibly, but that quickly settled into a sweet bouquet of creamy tuberose, the most discreet of citrus, (orange) and a touch of ylang-ylang. This scent slowly morphs into its heart and soul of beautiful rose and is further sweetened by a very well behaved patchouli. The whole aroma is then wrapped up in a mildly woody sandalwood and again, the sweetness is further enhanced by the vanilla. That all said, what do I think? This is a very delicate and beautiful floral composition made with the finest ingredients which reflect in the price tag and also the longevity. I put a couple of drops on my wrist and a drop in my cleavage and I have been getting heavenly wafts of floral loveliness for about 6 hours now and it's still going strong. This is a fragrance which sits close to the wearer, it is expensively elegant, I know that when I smell it, this is a perfume which is high quality. It is a fragrance which will make a discreet impact on those around it by brushing past it's wearer and leaving a memorable impression. Gorgeous and beautiful fragrance and were it cheaper I would buy a bottle, but I don't love it enough to justify a purchase.

The strongest indolic jasmine I ever experienced plus - weirdly – smell of naphthalene tablets that my Granny put in between her material rolls on the upper shelves of the wardrobe. When she died I remember staying on the chair taking off roll after the roll from those shelves, she was protecting them from moth by naphthalene and I guess for scenting on the top naphthalene were jasmine and lavender vintage hand-made sache. I am almost sure that no matter how many times I would wash those materials they would still smell the same – almost like an aged suede...That's what MDCI Enlevement au Serai immediately reminded me. Its nice and different and jasmine is a killer here but thats it. Price tag is just MAD.

A really classic lovely feminine floriental. It's quite light, but stays to your skin. Lovely.

Indolic woody floral. This is an outlier in the MCDI line I have smelled so far. Everything else has been modern mainstream niche: synthetic, linear, and mass appeal. This is highly indolic and reminiscent of Rochas Femme. Not an easy sell nowadays. Unfortunately, too synthetic. The original focus of MCDI was baroque style and high quality ingredients. From what I have heard from reviewers I trust, I would have loved the early formulations. This one in particular I think would have been a favorite. It must be difficult to try to run a vintage-leaning perfume line with a high percentage of naturals in the current perfume market of ridiculous IFRA- restrictions and mainstream taste for simplistic fragrances. I understand why the house has changed direction. Just not for me.

I had sort of expected this when I read the notes of Enlevement before wearing it, but the experience of wearing it greatly exceeded expectations: this is a carbon copy of Mitsouko. This puts me in a “reviewer’s conundrum”, because, of course, I love Mitsouko - therefore I love Enlevement, right? Well, yes, but I won’t be rating it highly since it will get no points for originality - and I mean none. I’m surprised Guerlain hasn’t sued MDCI. So I can keep this review brief; read the descriptions of Enlevement, or Mitsouko for that matter, and you’ll get a very accurate gist. Where Enlevement has more of a stake in the ground: One, the floral heart is bigger and more vivid. The Impressionist painting that is Mitsouko is now a 4k image. Two, that metaphor can be applied to Enlevement overall. Everything about it is vivid, crisp, clear, seamless, and “perfect” to the point that it’s nearly sterile. An Impressionist painting is meant to put an image and emotion in you more than it is meant to simply give you an image; a 4k res image basically says “this is it.” Mitsouko makes my heart melt, Enlevement makes me say, “my, that’s pretty.” And that’s about all I have to say, really. Enlevement is beautiful and very well done, a younger and gorgeous woman indeed, but not once does it make me want to loosen the grip from the hand of my beloved. So, I’ll rate it well, but begrudgingly. ... Nah, never mind. Neutral. Now, my mood is unhappy that Enlevement is trying to tempt me into cheating.

Gardin the Bagatelle EdP from Guerlain married Knize Ten! Very clean, very very strong and with unexpected dry down. After the soapy and fresh opening in Bagatelle style, caused with the strong jasmine comes the fresh spicy Knize Ten-like peachy heart and on the end it smells spicy warm. In one phase I was strong reminded on L'Air du Temps from Nina Ricci. Not my cup of tea.

Rich and expensive smelling at first application. Whiff of a more vintage feel to the notes. After just a few minutes I get the jasmine which is not as welcome since I'm not a jasmine lover. After 15 minutes get a bit of the patchouli which is a bit rank close to the skin. It does soften but ultimately this fragrance is not for me. Not good longevity either.