Beyond The Pashtun Summit

This brand revel in the immediate excitement and reminiscent fondness of travel, with fragrances that transport the wearer to beautiful, exotic places from around the globe. Here is another recent addition to the line, a leather perfume for those treasured souls caught up in the romance and magic of wanderlust. Beyond the Pashtun Summit begins with one of the best openings I’ve ever experienced. The blend of pomegranate, davana and hashish in the top is quite unique, the kind of opening that inspires your senses. Despite its extravagance, the oud plays a supporting role, rather than existing noticeably in the foreground. Its existence is woven into the patchwork of scenes, smells and experiences of the beautiful mountain pass, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. For me, this is a non linear boujie boho kind of joint that will appeal to fans of Byredo, yet without the divisive minimalist aesthetic. It’s a complex, smoky leather, with chewing tobacco and some hazy, intoxicating smoke that feels grassy, like some crazy zeut-laced immortelle. When perfumery ceaselessly chases art for arts sake, it can often result in a scent that is astonishing yet peculiar, rendering the work something to behold rather than wear. With Pashtun, the art and storytelling of global exploration is balanced by a stunning wearability. A new favourite in my collection.

This is a fascinating study in contrasts. Sherwood is clearly demonstrating his brilliance and deeper understanding of raw materials in Summit, and though I am not crazy about a cannabis accord in perfume, he nails it—and he nails the elusive pomegranate accord here, that quenching sweet-tart-astringent quality of fresh arils. The use of davana oil seems to assist in this affect (it's one of my favorite naturals). The heart smells like smoking weed while sipping on a Shirley Temple—there's this impression of grenadine (which of course is due to the pomegranate accord), plus there are facets that remind me of raisins, elderberry syr and blackcurrant. The base is more hay and tobacco like than woody/oud, which I can really appreciate, as I feared that I'd be faced with yet another hackneyed oud accord. Overall, this is fantastic.

Really good. Reminiscent of Parfum d’Empire’s rhapsodic Aziyade thanks to the fruit, but leaning away from a bodily tendency and towards something more mineralic, surprisingly found in the edges of a subtle and entirely well-incorporated cannabis note. The cannabis is hash rather than green, and not a novelty or attempt to shock; it’s so well dealt-with that you should be fine wearing this in delicate company without drawing disapproval or unwanted curiosity. An extrait worthy of the name, with a generous defuser, this goes on strong and remains with you throughout the day. There is a slight reversion to a still enjoyable musc, leather, oud-incense-y norm right at the end, but it’s still fantastic stuff. I doubt this bottle will be with me long and wish they came larger. Ridiculously cheap for what it is.

Based on a sample.I've come to enjoy smokey fragrances more and more, as long as the blending is good - ie not overwhelming, as it can be in, for example, a peaty Scotch. This opens smokey sour, a wake up call. Then soon (about 10 mins in) develops into a lovely smokey, leather/tobacco with the slightest hint of sweetness - I perceived as toasted coconut. So so subtle but balances the rest. Good performance too. Those looking for the cannabis hit from Black Afgano will be disappointed, but I loved this. 4.5/5

This is what I wanted from Black Afgano and why, when I finally smelled it, I asked myself, "Is this really Afghanistan in a bottle?" And no, it was not, at least not to me, it was the Orientalist interpretation of Afghanistan. However, this is absolutely it. The hash note here is not skanky, but dry and resinous. All the other notes paint the olfactory landscape of Afghanistan - at least the one I head about in Hosseini's novel's and heard in the music of Ahmad Wali. Masterpiece!