Derby

Next stop in Milano is the race course. To be honest, I was quite apprehensive when I read the notes and expected a dirty leather/horse accord, but it turns out that this strikes the perfect balance between being green and fresh and slightly dirty so as not to get boring. You can say that this sits between Diurno and Naviglio and I guess this could be the perfect signature all year round scent. The sillage of this one is very professional and definitely a lot quieter than the others I had tried. To some this might be disappointing, to me it’s an advantage as I prefer scents that are a bit more private yet present as they draw people into your sphere. It’s got enough freshness and softness for summer, but there is some warmth (the horse stable in the distance ... I really can see what they went for this as I pass the horse carriages every day; the scent of horses and what they leave behind is an integral part of the smell of the inner city of my hometown) in the scent that will make it also appropriate for the cooler months. Of course, it is utterly elegant as you'd expect from a fragrance that tries to capture the green freshness of the outside, but also the elegant classic fragrances of the ladies and gentlemen that watch the race. I actually see the scene of My Fair Lady 😂. Yet again, longevity is excellent despite it not being loud, so this is a winner in my book. It also walks the very fine line between masculine and feminine, sitting right in the middle. Notes according to the booklet that came with the sample set: Top: galbanum, mandarin, violet, French lavender Heart: mimosa, tuberose Base: oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, musk

Milano Fragranze Derby is a spicy, semi-herbal, semi-fresh blend that has an immediately classic vibe, inspired by a horse race course, consisting of resins, sharp florals (lavender, violet), patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, and oakmoss. It definitely has the “late 20th century men’s signature scent” concept and does it quite effectively, and in a way that is fairly unique, not resembling another specific scent that I can recall, while nonetheless feeling a part of a grander tradition, rendering it a bit relatable despite its own character. It manages to achieve a spicy concept without using any spices per se, either, furthering sort of lavender-first fougere idea, and it walks the lien effectively between being a bit provocative and also being comforting, familiar, and somewhat easy to wear. The rather loud opening settles down quite a lot within an hour, and it’s a scent I meant even wear on a summer night, just perhaps not a summer day. Overall, it’s an instant love, and I’m very impressed. Of the four I’ve tried, Derby and Basilica are my favorites. Derby, like the rest of the line, is priced at $135 for 100ml, in EDP concentration, a very reasonable price in the current market, and is sold at great boutiques like Perfumology that also sell the Masque Milano line. 8 out of 10

Today, I decided to wear "Derby" while talking about it with you. I guess it could be described as a rustic, galbanum-prominent fragrance, and I also detect some of the other notes for it mentioned on Fragrantica. Also, it could be described as gentlemanly, but perfectly unisex at the same time. I think it's unique, and I don't know what it's similar to. Some might say that its performance is lacking, but I find that it has at least pretty good performance. In the summer of 2021, I got a discovery set from Milano Fragranze. It took me at least a year to conclude that "Derby" is my second favorite from them. I like it a lot. When I tried them all, "Basilica" was clearly my favorite and right from the start. However, I decided that "Derby" is another one I should have in my collection, especially when I saw it for a good price last Dec.

Derby Milano Fragranze has this unique twist that really pulls me in - a blend that somehow evokes a horselike and grassy note, which is strangely wonderful. There's something whimsical about how it smells, sparking memories of the circus trips from my childhood. Those days felt magical, and this scent has a way of taking me back there, making it incredibly special to me. My only issue with this perfume, though, is its projection, it’s so subtle that it barely leaves a trace. It's too faint, which feels like a missed opportunity to fully enjoy such a unique and memory-laden aroma.

Good to know I'm not the only one to notice some formulation inconsistencies. Thought I was seeing/smelling things for a second. I have my official sample and my full bottle. They're different, but I like them both. The sample is incredibly thin, but what's there is beautiful. Licoricey lavender in its brief opening. Powdered cedary woods and mimosa, impressions of hay and leather, very transparent and dry. The bottle is a lot more punchy: Shampoo-like and fresh musks jump out. The salty/woody tuberose is much more noticeable and lends a tad of gummy fruitiness to the fragrance. It's a much more substantial fragrance with more defined phases, but unfortunately the aforementioned crushed woods and powdery mimosa has become less detailed. All things considered I think a swift post-release formulation took place here, since the fragrance is quite recent. In doing so we've left the race course and moved over to the gardens for the post-race interviews.