Violette Fumee

I can't get of enough of this at the moment. Violette Fumee was immediate love from the first time I tested it (2014 or so). I quickly ran through a dabber sample and ordered a third-party 3ml spray. Then for some reason - perhaps wanting to make the 3ml stretch - I became leery of using it and have now been hoarding for almost a decade. That's a pity, because this is gloriously wearable, properly unisex (even though it's clearly indebted to masc classic Grey Flannel - EDIT - and Fahrenheit), salubrious but not sterile, warm but not sugary, with a gorgeous playdough effect balanced by purple creamy smoke (purple but unsweetened and unjuicy, the driest possible violet, and smoky only in the sense of dense almost tactile vapour, not pyrizine barbeque-esque but dry ice, and definitely not trad tobacco). I can see that this has fougere elements, but I'm not usually a fan of fougeres (on myself), and what I like about this particular take is that any brisk fernery is immediately softened by the chewy, playdoughy purpleness. That there's zero patchouli or vanilla, - for once, a non-abrasive, non-metallic yet non-sweet and longlasting base - the excitement! - is just another attraction. Violette Fumee is not an evening or big statement perfume, but it's ideal for wearing at home, at work, in cafes or libraries, and in dank weather (i.e. every season but summer, in Northern Europe), and under the right conditions gives dark-academia-adjacent vibes. After spraying it in the morning typically I can still catch whiffs on the commute home. I've started wearing this again over the last few weeks, spraying relatively lavishly (this benefits from a heavy hand to bring out all the nuances and give staying power), and my 3ml is almost gone. I really want a bottle now, but - as often results from my typically cautious usage, overlarge sample stash and snail's-pace decision-making - I've waited too long and it seems to be on the way out. Violette Fumee also remains very expensive, even bearing in mind the general price-inflation of the last few years. EDIT: the only downside I can think of is that this is quite a serious perfume, i.e. not playful or humorous, and if worn by 'a man in a suit' type, could come off as corporate-luxury.

Violette Fumee is such a lovely, feminine perfume. On the whole it fits the soft and powdery profile, yet it's anything but ordinary. If you take a closer look, there is much going on beneath the surface. At first it smells like violet pastilles. As it develops it takes on an interesting oiliness. I was reminded of the greasy creaminess of mayonaise when it has been sitting out too long and starts to become a bit transparent. At first I struggled to find any "Fumee". Violette Fumee is not obviously smoky as I thought it would be. Instead the smoke is extremely subtle and seems like it's an effect caused by a few of these ingredients when they are combined, rather than, for example, a synthetic smoky ingredient that is blended into the composition. I pick up a lot of vetiver in the heart. Where vetiver can be sour, here is it used with great skill to the point where it really doesn't jump out at you, but it's very obvious if you make an effort to seek it. I really loved the drydown when all of these elements combined and deepened on my skin. This is just an incredibly beautiful and understated fragrance. It's the kind of thing I would wear if I were out shopping in Paris. I feel very impressed with the skill of the nose. Violette Fumee is beautifully composed. Just to compare, I felt there were major similarities with the magnificent Violette Sacre by Au Pays de la Fleur d'Orange. Violette Sacree is more intense, more smoky, much more woody. It smells more natural whereas Violette Fumee feels more like you're wearing something perfumey. But if you like the idea of a smoky, creamy, woody violette, these are both excellent.

Violette Fumée was love at first sniff for me: I originally had a sample so small it didn't even allow for a full day's wear, but that one experience was enough to tell me I need this one in my collection. And now that I've finally acquired a bigger decant, and I've had the chance to test it out properly, that first impression has only been solidified: this scent truly is one of a kind, really very special indeed. Like all unique scents it's hard to describe - it smells only like itself, unlike anything else I've tried. The violet is definitely the main player, and it's wonderfully done: powdery and subtly sweet, but very far from the sugary "parma" kind of violet, and enveloped in a gorgeous cloud of velvet smooth notes that seem more softly leathery than smoky to my nose. It's dark and light at the same time, if that makes sense - dark in theme, light in execution, maybe: it's a mature, elegant kind of fragrance, with lots of depth to it, kind of mysterious and the very opposite of "fresh"...but for all that it's easy to wear, not stuffy or overbearing at all. All in all this is one of those scents I could easily imagine wearing day in, day out if that was still my style: the scent is an absolute delight I can't imagine ever getting tired of, and at the same time it's versatile enough to fit almost any situation in almost any type of weather (with the exception of the very hottest days of summer, I think). My collection is big enough that it will probably take me quite a while to get through my decant anyway, but in this case I think it will eventually happen, and I see a full bottle somewhere in my future.

Violette Fumee opens with a fresh sparkly triumvirate of green violet leaf, a splash of golden effervescent honeyed bergamot and subtle herbal lavender. Towards the heart the violet flower builds, an ultra-fine polished smooth powderiness is present but checked and never overwhelms, as opoponax adds resinous sweetness and a creaminess to the violet, forming the languorous sinuous and slightly shimmering heart of the fragrance. There's also a very subtle tobacco note appearing at the beginning of the drydown, although I noticed this only on the second full wearing. At late drydown the violet flower recedes and watery violet leaf endures with a soft suede musky aspect (must be the cashmeran). As others have noted the 'fumee' aspect is noticeable by its absence. Although I experienced a couple of phantom smokey tendrils that are gone as soon as I noticed then. It lays close and after around 4 hours is really a skin scent, however I experienced +12 hours longevity, on fabric it's also +next day material. Not bad at all. There is a sweetness to VF, but it always retains a freshness and never threatens to become cloying. I’ve worn it now three times in the last four days, it’s got a subtle luxurious allure that keeps me coming back for more, I like it very much. Violette Fumee is smoothly beautiful in its subtleties, its softness and tenderness. It's different from anything in my collection and fills the violet yearnings I had. It would be easy to dismiss it on many levels, however doing so would be to miss the magic contained. It's not a knockout punch, it's a simmering romance...

Violette Fumee opens with a strong alcoholic blast, followed a moment later by the sharp greens of crushed violet leaves, bitter saffron, and sharp lemony opoponax. As the heart opens, a dark rose note joins the sillage, but not the scent on my skin. Floral violet appears in drifts, made light, cool, and airy by the dark and bitter accord surrounding it, like the cool breeze that arrives just before the first raindrops fall. All I can do at this point is sit and smell my wrists, this is magical in its evolution. As the heart develops, the dry bitter orange peel scent of myrrh arrives, complemented by a bergamot made juicy by the contrast with the dry resins. In the dry down, the primary accord forms an elegant, aromatic earthy accord, like soil after a soft summer rain. Cool, clean, slightly mysterious, utterly ravishing. I think this effect is created somehow with damp vetiver and dark, smoky guaiac. Or maybe it's magic. I'm leaning towards magic. Violet Fumee is like something out of a fairy tale, transformative, astonishing, miraculous. This scent will change how you perceive the world around you, making it fresh, washing you clean. This is a must-try scent for any perfume lover! I really, really love my new butterfly wings.

Beautiful fragrance from Mona !! The entrance already feels floral-streaked with a fern touch. The effect is given by the lavender and violet that is already tinged and with a slight contribution of luster by the bergamot (precious combination) and another dark touch by the moss. Then it softens and begins to increase the smoky-woody note on the floral effect and the fragrance begins to darken like the sunset of a cloudy day. The body of the drying is quite oriental and somewhat monotonous, begin to appear woody notes like the vetiver leaves its smoky mark and notes very balsamic as the opopanax that ends up dominating all the drying with a warm feeling of coat, in less effect it feels the Myrrh and cashmere that produces a musky effect so that it neutralizes well and engages with the skin. Fragrance that deals with a theme already seen and trite, but this work of Mona, in addition to having excellent qualities and a fairly good duration, has been original, very well mixed, serious work and with a different vision to the typical treatment of The violet spice or iris. Rating: 8

I’m convinced this is one of the grandparents of Gris Charnel. Yes a lot of the notes are different, GC is far richer and created for todays need for extra presence in a perfume, VF has violet rather than Iris etc., but still... it’s like looking at an old photo of a family and you can definitely see something of one of the grandparents in all the grandchildren but maybe can’t pin down what it is. I’m sure this was on the inspiration board when GC was created. The smoke sweet vetiver notes in this smell identical to me and maybe that’s the main similarity. Anyway, I love GC, I love this too and that’s a shame since as far as I can tell it’s not available anywhere. Please bring this back, and all the Mona di Orio back catalogue. They are masterpieces.

A dizzling classic fougere opening with mossy-citrusy lavander trio, it connects perfectly with the typical violet leaf scent (earthy crashed green leaf mixed leathery musky notes) that's true violet leave absolute for sure, and all those above bridged so skillfully to opoponax and myrhh resins, one would wonder when and why violet jumps into the game, well although the marblish powdery and creamy heady scent of violet would have normally stood out off this otherwise classic fougere-ambery concoction, thanks to the magnificent binding function of fragrant molecules in rose absolute, all the ingredients including the violet smell so well blended, I love this sophisticated, semi vintage piece of ambery floral fougere perfume , I simply love it

Oh what the perfume world lost when we lost Mona! I didn't think there could be anything better than some of the Les Nombres D'Or collection that came out not long before her untimely death, then I sniffed Violette Fumee ~sigh~ how do I find words for this masterpiece? I'm just thankful her friend and colleague she designed this for was generous enough to share it with us. There are great descriptions below, all I can do is say how much I second their effusions. Worth every cent!

It opens with smoked leather on my skin. The leather becomes weaker staying in the background and really beautiful accords of violet and strong lavender develop later and turn actually more soapy than powdery on a green-vetiver base. I love the way lavender exposes herself here. Really beautiful and sensible composition, incredibly fine and feminine. It is a very discrete fragrance. Silage and longevity could be a little better though for the price.

Violets on a soft clean leather base with saffron adding the hint of smokiness, this is one seriously pretty and whimsical fragrance, fit for a delicate princess with ESP.

I am a male and appreciate the full spectrum available to all fragrance lovers, so on recommendation, I tried this. I love it. It’s beautiful and sophisticated

Oh, this is beautiful! Smells like crushed violets, clean skin, leather and an ethereal smoky saffron. It's a love for me!

Has this been discontinued? I can't seem to find it on the official website?

Soooooo...not quite sure about this one & the jury (the one in my mind) is still out! But the fragrance DID grow on me after a few days. Still, I'm giving it a "THUMBS UP" after wearing it. The opening of this fragrance is a bitter, sour, earthy citrus-fruit approach that is akin to an orange peel thrown on a dirt pile. Bergamot-yes. Oak-moss-definitely! Opening notes are quite sour and acrid...not the best, frankly. Eventually, mid-notes develop that (for me) are not quite lavender but GRAPE. At one point, I detect notes mimicking Stewart's Grape Soda in the most definite way!!! Eeeeeeew, I thought. Definitely detecting notes of leather, some tobacco...but dry, old grape SODA! After an hour or more and with continued development, violet notes emerge but not in the way I hoped for or imagined. Not dreamy, dark, Gothic, mysterious or complex, this fragrance dries in a rather linear, faint, dusty violet manner. The fragrance definitely lands with slightly acrid, somewhat (very faint) citrus-y violet notes. What's interesting though is a smoky, gray cloak that embodies the violet fragrance, toning it down and balancing the violet out in the nicest way. Also, for a rather "linear" dry-down, this fragrance is "still" complex and quite lovely, actually. This is NOT a sharp, potent, shrill or pitch-y violet fragrance. In general, this is a very subtle, gentle wear. I applied a LOT to detect any fragrance, which isn't a good thing. And with all this said, silage is low and longevity isn't great. And the price? YIKES! Guess I was expecting more of a flowery incense fragrance, which this is not. Smoke-yes. Violets-yes. Cashmere-yes. Incense-no. But please note: this is NOT our grandmother's violet perfume! This is different & unique! It's the reason I love niche fragrances!!! Reminds me of a cloudy, gray day. Don't think I will be purchasing a full bottle of this at the going retail price of (what???) $350.00/3.3 ml.

A violet like no other. I think I'm finally "getting" the Les Nombres collection. They may have simple names which let us think it's centered around a particular note. Which is not the case at all. Vanille is not a stereotypical gourmand vanilla, Tuberose is like no other tuberose scent and Violette Fumee is like no other violet scent I've come across. I thought Lez Nez's Unicorn Spell and CDG Stephen Jones were different and unique takes on violet. Mona di Orio's Violet Fumee pretty much blazes past these and leaves them in her smoke, in terms of originality. This really has to be sat down with and taken time with to enjoy, it's complex and does not reveal it's entirety in the first half hour. I agree that it's opening reminds me alot of Cristalle and the like. Cristalle opens cold and unreachable on me, just like Violette Fumee did. I know perfectly well what clary sage smells like now, the leathery note was clearly in the icy herbal opening. However, making friends does take time and I was patient. My faith was well-placed and with time, the chill air left and I was greeted with a fresh violet with its leaves still green and perky, resins and woods. I much much prefer the warmer drydown to the opening so thankfully this lasts very well on my skin with a single spritz. This is not an easy scent to like, but neither were Cristalle or No. 19 for me intially, but now is a different story from then. Violette Fumee is not for those looking for a sweet violet pastille scent. It's a decidedly unisex take on violet with a bold entrance and uncompromising quality I've come to expect from Mona di Orio. This is no shrinking violet.

Violette Fumee opens up with an absolutely beautiful herbal lavender cloud. The smokiness starts to come through shortly after and wafts around for an hour or two, before settling down into soft vetiver and violet, which on me grows sweeter with a slightly just-right powderiness. I don't smell tobacco but my partner commented on it so it's clearly there. Presentation is outstanding - it comes in a lacquered black hinged box, lined with a velvety cream fabric - it feels like something special before you've even popped the twisted gold champagne wire off the bottle. I appreciate the luxuriousness of the perfume and the presentation which is by far the best I've ever seen, but at this price point (230 euros) I would like more sillage. Having said that - while wearing it at work yesterday I had one or two violet-tendril-laced moments during which I felt sorry for my colleagues who were not able to share the experience - and i understood then that this should be described as personal or private scent, rather than one with low sillage. As beautiful as this is, I'm a Leo, and like my perfume to announce itself to the world just a little more than this. If anybody is interested in buying the bottle (with all packaging) please PM me - I'm in Australia but happy to ship internationally depending on HAZMAT regulations.

It's a beautiful, greenish violet that feels like a breath of fresh air. Somehow it still has a milky feel with that violet poudre thing going on. Opoponax (helps with that powder/smoke? effect) myrrh and vetiver give this such a gorgeous hefty woodyish (violet can be woody to me as well) amber; the violet and violet leaf a breathlessness. Oh, lets not forget that opening, lol. Earthy and a bit wet, somehow. It's really hard to describe because it seems like it's diametrically opposed. The whole is much better than the notes would make it appear. I really do like it, just don't wear it much. Hard to find the words for Mona di Orio scents, it's just something that you inhale and love. I've been away from Fragrantica a long time so I'm reviewing as I unpack my perfumes, sorry if this sounds rushed for such a gorgeous perfume.

Well composed and elegant, although I don't smell violet much once it's on my wrist. It's difficult to describe. If you could imagine a pretty purple Band-Aid, that is kind of what this perfume reminds me of. There is a rubbery element, but not as rubbery as Bandit, and a powdery green facet that gives it a "fancy lady" kind of vibe. Overall, it's interesting and it works, but is not something I'd buy.

What an interesting take on violet, this reminds me a little of L'Artisan's Skin on skin (although the floral s Iris in that one) in the way it settles to a violet, suedey leather smell but without the saffron it's not exactly the same by any means just reminds a little of it. Very delicate, very beautiful, full bottle worthy for sure. I get a little of the lavender early on too it's lovely.