Iris Cendre

This is one of the few fragrances that comes close to being signature-worthy for me, given the skill of its composition, its harmony between timeless notes and contemporary aesthetics, its relatively low price point, and its refreshing (but not alienating) uniqueness. All of the fragrances released by Naomi Goodsir are outstanding in all of these areas, but this is my favorite so far, and one of the most wearable. It seems to me that it would theoretically be difficult to marry green notes to smokey ones; they are in some ways polar opposites, and cannot coexist without clashing horribly. Yet it's the union between sappy-rooty iris and subtle incense that acts as the olfactory motor of Iris Cendré. (I've noticed that many sites, including Fragrantica, drop the acute accent on the final letter. It doesn't make a huge difference: "Iris Cendre" would translate to "Iris-Ash" or perhaps "Cinder/Ember-Iris" whereas "Iris Cendré" is closer to "Ashen Iris" or even "Charred Iris", plus there's significant difference in pronunciation. But I digress.) Here, the bridge between the delicate smoke and marginally more assertive iris is a perfectly calibrated tobacco note, which carries both a leafy-herbal side and a pungent-green one. It's this almost invisible yet exquisite parquet that allow the titular iris and ash to dance together. And what a dance! A bit melancholy, of course, but not at all stifling or ecclesiastical; neither the smoke of the bonfire nor that of the priest's censer. The iris brings contemplation, but also hope, the forward-looking glance of spring and growth, pale stalks from the cool, dewy-sweet ashes. Thanks to the wet violet note, it never falls back into pure earthiness, nor desiccates into taut leather or mineralic carrot, as orris sometimes can. I get the barest wisp of labdanum to add some body, but to my nose, the other listed notes aren't individually detectable. I would not call Iris Cendré a complex perfume, but rather an extremely well executed and impeccably balanced one. And despite its tenderness, it's certainly not weak or fleeting. It's one of those fragrances that you can apply decadently and in profusion and it will never inundate the nose. Enrapture it, beckon to it, yes. But with such suavity and grace, the mournful glory of dawn faced with its own dissolution, knowing that high noon is yet to arrive. Timeless, ageless, genderless, best in spring and autumn; crepuscular and nocturnal, certainly. A new favorite, a new friend.

azure flowers slipped under chantilly lace corselette. warm rainfall cried from ashen clouds. tinny church bells hugging under steeple, flèche circled with incense beckoning quiet funerary grace and dusty bible pages. trembling thin wrist in need of nourishment reaching for a silver spoon. damp grass peeping from concrete, shaded by an overcast sky. endlessly elegant, iris cendre is grey silk in a bottle. iris is front and center, clean-cut, cold, and refined, almost austere despite its comforting draw. so full and justified in its presence, it is as if i can reach out and feel its petals—waxy, gummy, and buttery, to the point of becoming what i feel is best described as "chewy." indeed, the scent's silhouette is nearly palpable, and while i may not be able to take a bite out of it, i feel completely nourished each time i smell it on my skin. sweet, dewy violet comes together with iris to lend some softness under dark clouds. incense wafts throughout the air, silver ribbons of smoke softening all that they kiss, with tobacco as the finishing touch, providing a perfect amount of warmth, reminding me that everything will be okay. iris cendre makes me feel underdressed, in need of black lace gloves and a velvet pillbox hat with a veil. regal and sophisticated, yet so gloomy and distant. so strangely sad and happy at the same time, absolutely bittersweet. i find myself craving it on dreary days when raindrops stream down foggy windows, and i think it would be perfect for a less-than-jovial church service. dark and solemn, but hopeful nevertheless. my friend, who recommended that i try it in first place, says that iris cendre is more than just a "good smell," transcending the category of scented-commodity, sharing space with replenishing necessities such as hearty, starchy stews containing radishes, carrots, and other root vegetables. i do find myself craving it periodically, especially in the cold, as if it were a comforting meal from a concerned relative on a winter day, full of much-needed calories. songs for iris cendre: so low by carol, grey skies by turquoise days, telephone by iron curtain, new york grief '86 by princess demeny.

I used to not get a lot of smoke/incense, but now that I own it and can spray it more on me, not just on my arms and neck, I do get the ash. It's a really green opening, and then the incense mixes with the orris, and you get a really unique and beautiful fragrance. The incense, tobacco, iris, and everything is cold and sharp. Edit: I've had it for a few months now, and, first, I don't know what I was on; it's super smoky. The iris here is one of the rare one that ressembles iris silver mist, earthy and rooty, and that's the opening for me, there maybe a lit bit ot citrus, but it's not the main player . The iris stays in, with a lot of incense, and it does get ashy, in a good way. The amber is not that strong for me, luckily and the dry down is a bit mysterious, I am not really able to point at one note. I'd also have to say that Iris Cendré is not as cold as I thought it would be. Not warm, but still not the coldest iris you might find. It's one of my favorite scents in the world, no hyperbole, but it has one thing that weirded me out: it smells terrible on fabric. I was so surprised the first time I noticed it: it smells a bit like Nuit de Bakelite, and I have no explanation for it. For a scent I love that much, it does not evoke anything to me or conjure up any image; it's a pretty dark and mysterious scent. It reads like a really good work around Iris as a component, and I feel like someone who's not into Iris-centric scents would feel left out. The price is harsh; it used to be 150€ for 50 ml, and it's now 180€ for the same amount, and it's a lot., but it's one of the rare perfume I would still buy anyway.

Iris Cendré highlights as many of the facets to come from orris root that can be rendered in one perfume. The distant, aloof coolness is evident; the carrot-rooty earthiness; the violet ionones verging on cosmetic; and the waxy butter dusted with powder. One could argue that this could all be had and more with the seminal Iris Silver Mist; however, Iris Cendré seamlessly enters a warmer, smokier and resinous realm in its development. Violet pastilles by a campfire, and plastic doll heads mingled with clay and dough. Distant cigarette ashes and balsa wood airplane kits bought at Hobbytown. It stimulates memories of numerous childhood memories being fascinated with unusual smells, both from nature and from industry. It's multi-dimensional, but perhaps to a point where it might elude or give discomfort to some. There are a lot of layers here, each a puzzle for the mind. It almost is perceived as a traditional perfume, but then there is a facet coming from leftfield that stops me in my tracks and has me paying attention to it for a while. This doesn't become scented wallpaper, as over a time there is a peculiar wooliness that makes it feel three-dimensional. From damp, green chill to glowing, round cinder, Iris Cendré's movement through time is to me its biggest appeal. It's definitely one for the iris devotee, not the dabbler, because this is no "set it and forget it." It's an immersive experience and a brilliant work from Julien Rasquinet.

According to designer Naomi Goosir, fragrance is another way of expressing raw materials. "My inspiration comes from texture. I do a lot of layers with fabrics and leather, and fragrance is also about texture." Through her perfumes, I was able to gain an in-depth understanding of her creative concept, what the "texture" of her perfumes is, what the raw materials are, and how to convert them into scents. Her and the perfumer's ability to express is perfect. Iris Cendre is directed by Julien Rasquinet. These materials do exist. But not any of the above descriptions, according to the fragrance, time ratio, and feel, I think...it is closer to a violet iris. It is generally not said that this is iris leather or incense iris. This work is not based on vanilla. Iris with a feminine gender spectrum, wear it. Outstanding and elegant temperament, suitable for dresses with chiffon. Amber Cistus base, sweet vegetable oil, I found that it is what we call "labdanum". It can make the powdered orris root and violet smell more oily and smooth without being too dry. The presence of leather, tobacco and incense is not as high as that of orris root and violet. You can smell the difference between primary and secondary, and the supporting roles don't steal the show. A thin layer of powder on the silky overlay of iris and violets, not heavy, but not erratic.

When I first encountered Iris Cendre, it was on a drizzly afternoon where raindrops tapped on the windowpane and in the misty air. At first, there was a collision of the citrus's subtle sourness and the spiciness, like an unexpected encounter. Then, the powdery iris and smoky incense intertwined, like a sky after the rain, with irises blooming in the sunlight, carrying a hint of the rain's coolness. As time passed, the warmth of tobacco and the sweetness of amber gradually emerged, as if being in an old study, with firewood burning in the fireplace and a faint scent of tobacco lingering between the pages. Iris Cendre is a unity of contradictions, a blend of freshness and smokiness, a collision of florals and woods. It is not loud, not kitsch, but exudes a unique charm inadvertently. If perfume is an expression of emotions, then Iris Cendre is a letter filled with heartfelt words. It is suitable for those with rich inner worlds and delicate emotions, for those who maintain independent thinking in a noisy world. Whether in the quiet corner of a library or during a leisurely afternoon in a cafe, Iris Cendre can create a space for you. It is like a breeze, brushing away the dust of your heart, allowing you to rediscover inner peace and tranquility.

Naomi Goodsir releasing an Iris/Ash perfume? Sign me up. I love Bois D’Ascese, everything orris and smokey, and “ashey” incense perfumes. I blind purchased a bottle as soon as it was released a couple years ago. I wore it regularly at first and loved it. But eventually, the problem I had with Iris Cendre was that in addition to the advertised Iris and Ash, this very abstract scent is atleast equally about violet and a sort of chilled honeydew effect. The whole scent feels moist and cool when the word “Cendre” had me expecting something hot and arid. Even the ash note feels like it got soggy and smells more like wet concrete. Going into it as an iris lover and a smokey scent lover kind of set me up for a little disappointment. Looking back (I sold my bottle on Ebay during a perfume purge), it’s a pleasant, modern twist on Jaques Fath Iris Gris that I sometimes miss. It’s a good one even if the name threw me for a loop. And alas, I miss this one! Selling this and L’Artisan Skin on Skin are two big regrets that I may have to rectify with a re-purchase.

Still one of my favorite irises, scents and houses. I bought this one when it was first announced 10 years ago (time flies omg!) and loved it. But I had a crazy perfume purge and sold what was left of the bottle after a couple years. And then I started missing it! So here we go again. I sense only the tiniest change in formula. The chilled melon that I get from the iris accord is slightly subdued now and instead of the wet concrete and ashy incense that I once detected as off-notes in the drydown, I get a nice smooth incense and leather, like they really perfected the formula. The two ideas, iris and incense, hold their own harmoniously for the several hours duration of the scent. I think this is one of the best iris scents around, particularly for those who want a darker, less feminine and powdery expression of the note. 5 out of 5.

It's 4am, a punk wearing a cigarette-infused leather jacket trips, and comically rolls down a cold, dewy meadow filled with violets. Down the meadow they find a wild grape vine, wrapped around an oak tree. They enthusiastically, possibly drunkenly, toss sour grapes down the hatch, passing their ancient (expired).... watermelon LiP SMACKERS-coated lips. Awesome, wow!! Up top I smell cucumber (but like a lab-made cucumber scent, not real at all), pomegranate juice, oud, grapey-iris, tabac. WOW. Has a lipstick vibe too. To me this is actually quite tart and fruity. This. stinks. so. good. I'm glad I ordered a sample, I'll probably have to get a FB! The top notes are absolutely gorgeous! Dry down is less sharp & memory triggering, more of a... corky wood. Dry down: wine cork, labdanum, tobacco, violet, orris.

Haven't smelt another iris quite like this. For a couple months I'd wear my sample now and then and swear I didn't like it and then wear it again. Tangy smoky opening. An overcast secret. Then the warm heart peeks through, but it's a very dark kind of powdery. An iris played so low and cool it mixes perfectly with the incense. As others have said, there's something metal or asphalt, something like static in the air, although that makes it sound unwearable when it's the opposite, somewhat formal. The copy on the website uses the word 'obscure' and it's the perfect word for this experience. Even the long run from about an hour on through carroty iris and violet and wafting tobacco is keeping a secret. Green and steady. It might feel like falling to smell this on someone else, but I love it on me.

Nuit de Bakelites colder, more gothic sister scent, for me it was definitely between iris cendre and Nuit de Bakelite for a full bottle. Iris cendre has a really cold, earthy, clinical and sterile smell to me in the opening, eerie yet very addictive. It reminded me of hospitals, not in the way that inexcusable evil does but definitely hospital/dentist vibe. The dry own is where some “sweet” (if you can call it that) nuances begin to become more pronounced, it gives me a gummy worm feel strangely. Afterwards I get incense, iris, amber and some tobacco, as crazy as the scent sounds I find it very formal and definitely wearable for specific occasions. I will use my 2ml for those special occasions for now but I can see myself with a full bottle in the future.

I'm instantly obsessed with this. This is a very green tobacco-y, rooty iris. Despite the smokiness it's somehow fresh. There is some violet in the opening, but I really don't find it overwhelming as some previous reviewers have said, it adds just a tiny bit of sweetness which is nice. On a synaesthetic level, this brings to mind a bright, grassy green, violet and brown. It's truly unisex too. It just gives an air of empowerment somehow that is hard to describe. It smells confident and unique, like the signature scent of someone stylish, successful and intelligent. When I wear this, I feel like Prue Halliwell from Charmed. Art expert, respected auctioneer, photographer and secretly a witch. Sleek, striking and beautiful.

So good... in the same style as iris silver mist but not similar enough to be interchangeable at all. Both are cold vegetal rooty realistic irises. This one opens in a sharper way but quickly becomes powdery and vegetal and almost clay like. I dont find the tobacco to be smoky or warm here, which works in its favor. If you dont like carroty iris you wont like this but otherwise its magnificent

A creamy Iris butter... Intoxicating & dreamy! There is a cooling effect, as if the iris and violet petals have been frozen and then lightly sprinkled with powdered sugar! I also get suede leather. Very pleasant! Every single perfume by Naomi Goodsir is a masterpiece! I already purchased 2 full size bottles (Or du Serail & Cuir Velours). Edit: Stays for days on clothing & lingers in the air.

This is the single best iris scent in my opinion. Very dry and powdery but not balmy or sweet, fits on any gender and any age. It’s hard to describe the scent using anything in real life. To me it feels like a subtle aura of warmth and elegance. The perfect balance of spice, iris, and amber creates a soft and feathery mist that lightly floats over your skin. Truly a masterpiece.

Every time I wear it I close my eyes and listen to what it has to say to me. “Give yourself peace” she often whispers to me, then she hugs me with her innocence that is as withered as it is vulnerable and drags me in front of a small bonfire that is dying out in the immensity of a Nordic clearing. I (in)follow him, I welcome him, without batting an eyelid. Cathartic.

This a perfume for all seasons with a beautiful powdery and floral scent. I also can smell some balsamic and woody scent. I think the main notes are Iris and Tobacco mixed with Violet and Labdanum and some spicy stuff. Both longevity and projection are good. Yesterday I bought a bottle of this product and added to my collection.

Opens with a blast of powdery iris that is very fresh and green It is accompanied by violet, giving it fresh and almost wet qualities They are surrounded by a cloud of slightly sweet and warm amber accord As it's drying it's becoming less fresh and more thick and dense with heavier notes like tobacco, amber and some spices

Lipstick, leather, and smoke. Definitely ashy as the name suggests. It’s got a certain austere goth elegance to it. Not a crowd pleaser but a personal favorite and a must try for iris lovers. This is the best dirty iris I’ve found (with the best clean one being Orris Tattoo, another must try for iris heads).

Cool iris with just a touch of smoke. The reviewer who said this smelled like licking an envelope is spot on, but I love that smell. I'm not big on citrus notes, but this fragrance is far from sour or tart - I didn't even notice any citrus until I read the notes pyramid. Subtle, doesn't project too far.