Mohur

Comparison of Mohur EdP and Mohur Extrait Neela Vermeire loves florals, and with Duchaufour’s hands she’s unquestionably proven that she knows what to do with them. Tuberose and jasmine have been the stars of several of the brand’s perfumes so far, but with Mohur we finally get a red rose. Curiously, NVC has released an EdP concentration and an extrait concentration of it. Why? To be honest with you, I can’t tell you why; having worn both, it’s not really making sense to me why we need both as opposed to just one of them. There are some differences between the two that, perhaps, could be enough for some people to say yay or nay to one over the other, but I’m not convinced. When I ask myself “if I were to buy one, which would it be and why” I struggle for an answer. Starting from the beginning, we notice an immediate difference between the two and really the only major difference throughout the life of both. The extrait is quite a bit more powdery, it’s darker, and the musky and oily ambrette note is larger and far more focused on the outset than in the EdP. The EdP has lighter powderiness and the ambrette is not nearly as intense. In both there is a very big piquant black pepper note backed by spices, and a resinous and green elemi. This difference in light carries into the heart as well. The rose of the extrait rose is a dark magenta, and the rose of the EdP is a luscious red. They are the exact same material, but the supporting characters have had their volumes changed slightly to provide the difference in brightness. The EdP carries more heliotrope and violet leaf, while the extrait dials these back and lets orris flank the rose to greater effect. The final dry down and skin scent of both is virtually the exact same. The sandalwood amber accord puts emphasis on woods that are a bit peppery and spicy thanks to patchouli accents, with a lovely and soft string of leathery animalics running through them. Now that I’ve got my thoughts down on paper, so to speak, I’m a little less strident in my opinion that I started with but I still hold to it. It seems the purpose of the extrait is to be a richer form of the EdP. An obvious, "duh" statement, right? To that end, I get it, but I still don’t understand why we need both. No one is going to smell the EdP and say, “you know, I just wish it was richer,” but that’s exactly what NVC did. When I smell a Chanel or a Guerlain extrait, as examples, the difference between them and their lesser concentration formats is evident and clear; the differences and intentions are not vague. In my final thoughts, I really only have two. One, a reiteration of my point that I don’t understand why we need both or what the difference is truly supposed to be. Two, Mohur, in both concentrations, is absolutely gorgeous. It is a superb red rose creation that deserves to stand with the likes of Nahema, Sa Majeste La Rose, Lyric Man, Portrait of a Lady - that echelon of greats. Just don’t ask me if I prefer the EdP or the Extrait, I don’t have an answer for you. Frustrating.

Like the rest of Neela Vermeire’s collection, Mohur demonstrates something increasingly rare in contemporary perfumery - compositional discipline! ♥️ Every material appears to have a clear purpose. Nothing feels decorative, excessive or included merely to create complexity on a marketing pyramid. The perfume unfolds with remarkable clarity, allowing each accord to support the next without competing for attention. Perfume Bertrand Duchaufour (who is, let’s be honest, one of my favourites in this field) treats the rose in Mohur not as a romantic cliche but as an architectural centrepiece around which the entire composition is constructed. Cardamom, coriander and elemi provide a luminous aromatic lift, while iris softens the floral heart with its elegant, powdery texture. The subtle leathery accord lends depth rather than harshness, preventing the composition from ever drifting into overly delicate territory. One aspect I particularly appreciate is the complete absence of the intrusive synthetic brightness that dominates so many modern releases. Too often today, powerful woody-amber molecules overwhelm a fragrance, flattening its evolution into a monotonous wall of projection. Mohur takes the opposite approach. Its woods, sandalwood, benzoin and patchouli create a seamless foundation that supports the florals instead of suffocating them. I love that patchouli is not too dominant here, although I usually like rose and patchouli together. But this composition is just perfection. The result feels organic, breathable and remarkably natural. This balance also makes Mohur surprisingly accessible for people who normally avoid rose perfumes. The rose never becomes syrupy, overly powdery or aggressively vintage. Instead, it remains refined, transparent and beautifully integrated into the surrounding woods, spices and soft resins. Mohur is an excellent study in contrast and harmony. Warm and cool materials coexist effortlessly, spices illuminate rather than dominate. Floral, woody and resinous facets remain in constant dialogue throughout the wearing experience. Every transition feels intentional, making the perfume rewarding not only emotionally but intellectually as well. For me, Mohur is one of those increasingly uncommon fragrances that proves complexity does not require loudness. It requires balance, patience and an exceptional understanding of composition. And that is precisely what makes it so beautiful. 11 out of 10. 🌹

Greetings Fragrantica Community! Mohur is my first fragrance review, and I couldn't think of a more beautiful scent to write about. I ordered Neela's "Try Your India" pack last month, after reading rave reviews about this fabulous trinity of fragrances. In just a few short days I received my packet with a beautiful card with a handwritten note and the decants in a beautiful Brocade bag. Mohur was the first of the three that I sampled. It opens with an opulent, yet soft tea rose. Much like how the beautifully fragrant David Austin style English roses often smell. Then right away, I picked up a touch of the cardamom just whispering, along with other gently blended spices--a bit of a tie in to Trayee, the first fragrance of the three. Once in awhile I would pick up a hint almond trees, and rich Benzoin incense. The oud was very tender--I couldn't really pick it up too much, although the only other times I've only smelled it in Japanese stick incense and a C02 extract form. So I'm glad it wasn't too overshadowing. The drydown kept quite a bit of the rose, at least on my skin--And the Sandalwood stayed with me for a good 8 hours or so after I first applied it. Oh I would love to own a full bottle of this, but for now I will have to settle on the "Try Your India" set, and pray for some unexpected cash to come my way...It would go right to Neela! :) I just felt great wearing this scent--and even as a guy, I wouldn't hesitate to wear it any time I wanted to feel elegant and beautiful. It's one of me faves!

The word that keeps coming to mind when I smell Mohur is “magical.” It’s a lush, tender, pink-and-purple wonderland of rose and violet and almond cream. It’s twinkling lights and Turkish delight. It’s unreal. Sometimes it glows with a deep ruby tonality, and there’s a furry-dark base keeping it grounded, but really Mohur is delightfully frothy and feminine in a fairy-princess key. It’s softly radiant and weirdly weightless in texture; it feels like a hologram that I can put my hand right through. You’d expect a “creamy” perfume (full of almond milk and iris butter and tonka and vanilla) to come with a sense of rich thickness, but somehow Mohur doesn’t. This is a Duchaufour signature: “Not opaque or transparent or translucent but a third more complex thing.” The most natural comparison point in my mind is Zoologist Nightingale, which is likewise a rose-violet confection atop an oud base, but I wasn’t crazy about the rough scratchy oud in Nightingale. Mohur’s “oud” is imperceptible to me, so it’s the clear winner of the two. Mohur is my pick for the ultimate “Venus” scent, as far as traditional planetary correspondences go; coriander, rose, almond, violet, birch (ie perfumery leather), sandalwood, and vanilla are all “under” Venus, and Mohur is very overtly feminine. Wear it to indulge your romantic imagination.

If you came here looking for your rose perfume, you’re in the wrong place. Yes, there’s rose. And yes, it’s beautiful, unmistakable, and absolutely integral. But calling this a rose perfume somehow misses the point. There’s simply so much more to it. For me, it’s every bit as much about the luxuriously rich sandalwood, creamy almond and delicate dustings of violet that come together to create one of the most classically structured and perfectly executed bases I’ve encountered in years. Now, the rose. It’s soft, powdery and feminine, woven into the composition rather than sitting on top of it. It feels as though Duchaufour has deconstructed the idea of rose, rebuilding it piece by piece. At times it’s hard to tell where it begins and ends, its edges blurred by the most delicate orris and patchouli. I could try to pick apart each floral as it appears, one by one. But frankly, I can’t. Everything moves together, seamlessly, and I find myself less interested in analysing it than i do just enjoying the moment. The final stages push that sandalwood over a base of amber and vanilla that goes on for hours and has me drifting in and out of concentration as I sit at my desk, trying to focus on work but instead being distracted by the warm glow washing over me. I’m happy here.

I recently sampled one of the Neela Vermeire perfumes and was so captivated that I had to try the other two, which I ordered from her website. A mere week later I received my beautifully packaged samples from Paris, complete with a lovely handwritten note. I was quite impressed, because that kind of excellent customer service is almost unheard of these days. Mohur is a gorgeous rose/oud combination featuring Turkish rose oil and oud Palao from Laos. My experience with most rose/oud frags is that the oud tends to overpower the poor rose, but that's fortunately not the case here. Mohur's great big rose (11% rose accords) is beautifully enhanced by the spicy top notes of pepper, coriander and cardomom and continues to bloom and develop against the oud and leather as the scent dries down. The story of Noor Jahan's benign captivity that inspired Mohur suits the mood I get from this perfume, which is that of a beloved woman living in a protective cocoon while time marches on outside, sort of like Sleeping Beauty in her enchanted castle. If you enjoy rose/oud frags or are just a rose lover in general, Mohur is something you ought to try. Wearing it will remind you of how special you are. Sillage was moderate on my skin, and longevity was about 6 or 7 hours.

After the big hype on perfume blogs I ordered 'Try your India' samples directly from Neela Vermeire Creations and was awaiting them with anticipation. They arrived and... I was somehow disappointed. It's either my skin chemistry that either makes all of these fragrances somehow insignificant or simply it's not my cup of tea. Don't get me wrong, all three fragrances are beautifully done and shall any of them come my way as a gift I'll be pleased but they didn't move my heart. Out of three of them I like Mohur the most: it starts out strong and after this initial spray I almost ruled it out completely but then after a while (and in my case it was a long while!) it settled into pleasant combination of rose, oud, leather and very subtle vanila/almond. And don't ask me where I got it from but I can also smell cooked carrots! (yeah, carrot seeds are on the 'menu' - just checked) Update (half a year later in Summer). I digged out my samples I bought in January and tried Mohur again. What a surprise! I discovered nuances I didn't smell in winter, like its creaminess, softness, luxury. Amazing how our perception of fragrances changes with seasons. I put it on the top of my 'To buy list'. And who cares about the price? :-)

It's a very curious thing that Mohur smells very much like Ormonde Jayne's Ta'if. Looking at the fragrance pyramid, you wouldn't suspect it at all. But the similarities have been nagging me and finally it's proven! I wore a dab of both on either wrists, being careful that I applied the same amount. They smell 99% alike. The difference is that Mohur opens with a more fruity raspberry accord. Ta'if starts off more well rounded. Then both gradually veered into more screechy territory (tuberose?). Ta'if dried down to powdery rose. Mohur's drydown was barely noticeable, it didn't really last. Given that Ta'if was launched almost seven years prior to Neela's fragrance, points don't go to originality. But points go to recreating a similar scent with a whole different bunch of ingredients! That deserves applause surely.

I’m not exaggerating when I say this is one of those perfumes that defies description due to its complexity and enigmatic beauty. I often find it difficult to pick out individual notes, it’s like an enveloping, yet not dense cloud or a regal silk veil, though of course bits of rose do pop out at you, you get suggestions of powdered sugar and confection, spices, resins, embedded in creamy sandalwood and just the tiniest hint of oud, definite presence of patchouli and a slight mossiness sometimes as well. It has that royal and luxurious feel whilst remaining approachable, and possesses a certain romantic tenderness and passion that I find very affecting. Definitely one of the best rose perfumes of all time, and this is before I’ve even tried the extrait - not sure I’m ready...

Tea is what I smell, is that the roses? This is a subtle scent that is very airy and comforting. I do not detect overbearing oud, instead, there is a whisper of fine powder that is clingy the way bath oil clings to wet skin and a relaxed wood that simply sits back and lets the roses shine.The woods are a tad bit finite for my taste as I prefer something a little more hard core. I would personally choose to layer this with one of my Arabian oils just to give it some weight. This is a beautiful fragrance that would be lovely to wear to a wedding, a graduation ceremony, or a fancy opera. Every rose lover should take the initiative to sample this very fine fragrance, you won't be disappointed.

i got all 3 samples of the neela vermeire perfumes. i didn't like bombay at all. i wasn't sure about mohur and trayee was my favorite, i thought. i kept coming back to smelling this one for some reason. i wore it to work today and i could still smell it after about 6 hours. i didn't put much of it on since it was just a sample size. i can definitely smell the leather, i'm not a big fan of the scent of roses, but this doesn't smell like the typical rose. this is not a girly perfume, i would say it is almost unisex, but it leans more towards feminine. it is a great fragrance, with alot of lasting power. it might replace trayee as my favorite of the 3.

I was sure I would like this, but I didn't realize how much I would LOVE it! Test spray: wow that's gorgeous. Walked around with it on for 30mn, then smelled my arm again: magical. An hour later I was so in love with it, I ran back to get the FB right away. This is the most delightful oriental rose I've smelled in a long time. It invites you on a tantalizing journey, while soothing you at the same time. A beautiful blend of spices, resins and woods, all smoothly swirling around an opulent rose. It's not loud, but projects enough to leave a noticeable sillage. Longevity is great.

I received a sample when purchase from Saint Cellier (i didnt pick, this was selected by them) and let me tell you!!!!! This is the epitome of clean skin scent. Absolutely a master creation which feels extremely refined, sophisticated, gentle aura...I cant put into words how elegant, non offensive and beautiful this fragrance is. I thought i hated cardamom or aromatic dna. This proves me how wrong we may be. Honestly, it is a pricey perfume and I might be willing to save to buy a bottle.

The beginning of this smells like the striped zebra chewing gum of my early childhood, delicately fruity and sparkling. A clear translucent fruity rose with a little bit of saffron and greenish almond, very clear and the projection is modest and a bit close to the skin but I prefer intimate scents. It’s expensive so don’t blind buy if you can help it. I am on a fruity rose kick right now with this and Grace by Comme Des Garçon. I will be getting Pichola and Bombay Bling later this year.

I'm glad with the whole line of NVC. Great quality. It has a fresh yet spicy opening, featured by elemi, with a smooth transition into a watery rose. The spice is not going away though, but supporting the rose and jasmine. Definitely gives you a luxurious vibe. I am keen to get full bottles of the NVC line including Mohur.

Oh, where have you been all my life? Beautiful start and dry down. Rose, light violet. Cardamom, almond and tonka. Sandalwood and vanilla in the dry down.I’m going to have to try the extract too. Leans feminine.

This is an oud fragrance, leathery, but fresh! It's unmistakably oriental, spicy, balmy, but also very fresh, almost dewy, and powdery at the same time. The tenderest oud fragrance ;o)

roses, powdery, bitter roses that are green and drying in a box; very musky; and a little bitterness in the base from the carrot seed, lovely

This reminds me of love. And we need that reminder.

This is a lovely lush complex non-linear rose in the line of POAL or Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit and every so slightly Tauer's Une Rose Kandahar, and I think one of the Amouage perfumes (Lyric?). This is not to say that Mohur would just swap out, but when I think of rose families, NV Mohur belongs more in this one with its spicy qualities, depth and animalic facets. The opening blast just caught me totally by surprise, and I thought I had over-applied. That leads me to note: I did not over-apply. This rose is quite muted minutes later. One-half hour into the ride and it's a substantially lighter skin scent, still spicy and deep and lovely, but the silage is "Poof! Gone." Rose is front and center, but amplified; for a few amazing minutes, it's a deep RED rose on steroids, a velvet, furry fantastic rose with spices and woods. It's like listening to an opera singer shattering a few octaves in one long breath. But for the money, and considering the silage issue, one should try before they buy and carefully consider whether this is THE rose. I don't regret, but enjoy my other roses enough not to repurchase. PS--just looked up Lyric by Amouage. Well. No one is going to get a discount either way--but the notes are startlingly similar. Memoir I think is more powder incense.