Iris Medicis Intense

I tried this in one of Nicolaï's London shops last week and immediately purchased the 30 ml. bottle. (I love that she makes this size available; I wish all houses did this.) The iris and violet at the top are strong and transporting -- almost dream-inducing -- but the leather grounds it somehow. I get an olfactory image of leather coats hanging on the walls in a Florence shop but for me it's more the texture of leather (particularly a soft suede) than an actual leather smell. I think this would work for a person of any gender and age. It's a beauty!

It starts like a classical iris (and orris) with its waxy and earthy vibes. But quite quickly it becomes creamier with a prominent powdery undertones. But most importantly you start noticing that tender sugar powder underneath together with a soft suede. For me it’s a bridge between classic and modern iris scents. Beautiful! Follow me on IG: scent.guide

a masculine musky floral scent, an above average smelling fragrance. 8/10

I was expecting a much drier and greener fragrance from the notes, with at least an opening closer to something like Prada's Infusion d'Iris but without the clean, soapy quality. I am a huge fan of iris in perfumery, finding its scent to be elegant and refined with a touch of austerity bestowed from learning responsibility through adulthood. I should have considered the sweetness of violet and vanilla coming into play in Iris Medici, which I find opens like clementine peel; citrusy but with a powdery warmth. There is a fleeting moment in the opening where I am able to relish in the dryness of galbanum and carrot seed with iris alongside the beautiful bitterness of orange blossom before the sugary violet and musk immediately take over. Iris Medici is lovely but it is very well behaved and ends up smelling like a quieter Poudre de Musc on my skin with the comforting orris of Ambre Cashmere; it is pretty and safe. I would have personally loved something a bit more serious than fluffy with such a name as Iris Medici.

EDITED TO ADD, 3 MONTHS LATER: This fragrance makes my top 3 all time list. I am savoring my 30 ml bottle, but it is difficult to find in the US. Bedtime? Iris Medicis Intense. Easy reach day? Iris Medicis Intense. Want to amplify the iris in another fragrance? Iris Medicis intense. Challenging day at work? Iris Medicis Intense. I can't get enough. PREVIOUS REVIEW: For full transparency, I won this bottle a giveaway. But I’m SO glad I did. Recently I have been exploring the world of iris/orris, and this is an excellent every day office-type iris. I can see how folks say that it has no personality, but I see it more as a deliberate refinement. The heaven is in the details here. Overall, it is a papery iris rather than overly powdered and vintage, which is my preference. It is fortified with other notes that do not overpower the delicate iris, but instead enhance her natural facets. It starts rather sparkling, sharp and citric. A ode to the vintage vocabulary. But very quickly it settles into perhaps my favorite part: The papery iris heart. Her supporting players come slowly into view from there: with a dash of sweetness from the vanilla (NOT gourmand by any means - It is a welcome dimension, even from a certified vanilla hater) and a baby-smooth saffron leather, more in texture than in substance. What is left is a skin scent of comfort and luxury, without any baby powder heliotrope, which is not my favorite (and seems to creep into these type of scents). Iris Medicis, however, walks that fine line between cocooning musky sweetness and the savory elegance of an orris saffron leather, without feeling synthetic. And the drydown, though somewhat intimate in sillage, truly lasts 8 hours. A perfect easy reach for any time of year. Other orris favs include: Noisette from Maison D’Etto and White Rice by D’Annam. Both of these orris notes take a back seat, however. And I am thrilled to have this one where she’s front and center 🙏🏻