Madagascar Le Baume Vanille

Vanilla is a sore and frequently touchy subject with me. Too often it is criminally mishandled by perfume houses, always opting for the same sickly-sweet gourmand, the same sweet and velvety sensuousness, or the same woody and earthy presentation dubiously aiming for naturalism. Vanilla is having a moment in today's trends, not that it needed another one. Ever so popular, it seems to fade only to significantly popular before riding a sudden wave of massive popularity like the phase we are in now. Rarely do I look forward to vanilla releases for the aforesaid reasons, but in 2025 I felt the extremely rare anticipation of two: Vanille Havane Cuir des Abysses, and this. It seems Les Indemodables and Parfum d'Empire are on very similar pages in terms of how to fit in with vanilla's moment, as there are some remarkable similarities yet stark differences, which I won't go into here - read my review of VHCdA after this if you are interested. Though I was a bit trepidatious to experience Parfum d'Empire's first vanilla perfume, in Marc-Antoine Corticchiato I wholly trust. He said "no" to sickly sweet gourmand. He said "no" to sweet, velvety sensuality. He mostly said "no" to a naturalistic presentation. He said, "let's make vanilla wicked." The hex has got me. You are not going to be ready for the intoxicating and hallucinogenic elixir that awaits you. Or at least I wasn't. Madagascar Le Baume Vanille is properly boozy but empyreal and hypnotic. This isn't a cheap bottom-shelf rum given a massive injection of baker's vanilla extract designed to give you a drunk's nausea and a morning-after headache like so many other vanilla perfumes. The rum is transmutative and plasmatic. The vanilla has a breadth and depth that is paranormal. The peppercorns sparkle and tingle, bringing a waxy fruity note and the nose-tingle of alcohol heat laying over dry and warmly medicinal cloves, parched woody cinnamon, chocolatey caramel notes from charred liquor barrels, and a texture that is like a thick, sweeping, creepy fog that manages to mostly liquify. The vanilla laying underneath is equally gourmand, naturalistic, and extraterrestrial in a dark and nefarious way. Sweet and grassy hay, fruity cured pipe tobacco, black and wet earth, sticky and oily resins, rich vanilla oils as black as tar and bitter earthy seeds and pods, and - the most interesting part to the vanilla, the part that makes it feel malevolent and otherworldly - the leather. There is a deep, earthy, bassy rumble of leather to Madagascar. It is something along the lines of earthy birch tar without the smoke and yet even blacker, something along the lines of castoreum that is just as thick and oily without smelling like it came from the back of an animal. It shifts the character of this vanilla into a different dimension but deceptively so. All of the facets of this vanilla, the leather included, are so seamlessly intertwined it's very difficult to see where one ends and another begins. The breadth and depth have the expansiveness and the blackness of a vast desert at night, and it's that enormity of size to the void that makes my heart thud with addictive anxiety. The roiling plasma of the rum, and the infinite vanilla swirl about each other for a considerably long time, for hours in fact, until the dry down when the hex begins to wear off and reality becomes more apparent as we are left with that gorgeous vanilla accord sans its textural dynamism. I cannot fully relay how much of a trip it is to wear Madagascar Le Baume Vanille. Vanilla perfumes are largely one of the safest genres to wear, which is one of the reasons it is so popular and why are there are so many terrible vanilla perfumes out there. Madagascar is not a safe vanilla perfume. This is not going to fit neatly, if at all, into the popular category. If it wasn't going to be striking and strange simply by the way it smells, its enormous performance will make sure that it gets noticed. This xenomorphic sorcerer launches itself from your skin, trails behind you like the slick interstellar plasma it evokes, and if you're in a room for a mere few minutes expect it to fill the space - so wear with caution, approach this warlock brew carefully yet confidently. Madagascar Le Baume Vanille is a stunning piece of work from Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, one of the best he's ever made, and it goes towards the top of my list from the brand amongst the greats of Ambre Russe, Ruade, and Musc Tonkin.

Chili pepper mulled rum woody tobacco vanilla Finally received my pre-ordered bottle and I am not the least bit disappointed. Master of spice Corticchiato has potentially taken inspiration from Vanille Havane and adjacent Tobacco Vanille derivatives, but instead focuses on bringing out the ample facets of vanilla as a raw material on a massive scale giving us a completely new evocation of a familiar theme. Mysteriously Corticchiato has created a chili pepper like effect in the opening which sends rippling waves of warmth along the skin, almost like habanero pepper liquor creates a potent warmth in your mouth. This accord disperses into mulled spice and by the minute starts being enveloped by what seems like the largest vanilla construct ever created. It starts with temperamental growling spice and slowly morphs into a sweet yet brooding, purring vanilla mantle. Every sniff seems different, perpetually morphing and developing. What i can't wrap my finger around is how exactly Cortichiatto managed to so perfectly portray both the sweetest most ethereal facets of vanilla we know from vintage vanillas, the caramel covered roasted banana almost jasmine like facets, while simultaneously conjuring the dark and brooding woody tobacco inflected leathery facets of the freshly scooped vanilla seeds with a bit of the pod as well, we know from Vanille Havane. Smell it from further away and you get the high pitched sweetness. Smell it closer up and you get a sense of potent danger. Highly recommended for this time of year particularly in cold climates. Potent stuff. Unisex if your can tolerate it’s temperament. Similarly to VH the surprising amount of naturals adds a certain grittiness to the opening purely due to the complexity of the composition. This initial dissonance quickly settles into a textured landscape, but may put off those used to a more filtered modern molecular composition.

Sampling this on a chilly spring morning: Spiced rum, with ultra smooth vanilla and powdery cacao. Richer and more natural smelling than Initio Side Effect which also has a prominent rum. This immediately made me think of Guerlain Tonka Sarrapia, but without the vintage medicinal aspects that I often get from tonka. To me, this has zero similarity to Guerlain SDV. This isn’t sweet or buttery. Vanilla isn’t even the star of the show here. I would say the vanilla is more of a bridge between the rum and cacao. I think this would be insanely delicious layered over a sweet vanilla such as Insulo or Gioiosa. I’ve been looking for a spiced chocolate scent, like a mug of Champurrado or artisanal Mexican chocolates. And, this is one of the best cacao scents I’ve tried. I’ll definitely revisit my sample in the fall when it’s more seasonally appropriate for a full wear.

There's a bit of complaining below about booziness and the lack of vanilla; which surprises me. It's supposed to be inspired, after all, by a rum drink with vanilla in it (not cognac). I just tried this again on my arm a couple of nights ago - Summer evening after a cool change; probably c. 19C with a cool coastal Summer breeze blowing that maybe made it feel colder. In the cooler air this was simply stunning. The top notes are most definitely boozy and spicy, I know - it's a full blast of everything it has discernibly in that notes pyramid. However, if you make the effort to wait and experience the full dry down, and take in the depth of that sillage, in the air outside, it's difficult for me to see how anyone thinks this is over-the-top boozy and insufficient wrt vanilla. That's just my take, of course! Of the reviews below I think Katerinae's is spot on.

Masterful fragrance. Utterly captivating and exudes quality. Definitely cross-seasonal and relatively unisex. Unambiguous BANGER (from a quality perspective), whether into the genre or not, as long as you can handle booziness, to begin, and the 'bit-more-than-skin-scent' after 2-3 hours. I suspect the silage makes up for it in any case. The opening is wonderful - a raw, 'both barrels' experience of the stated accords - but the dry down survives, as an amalgam, on skin for a long time, so you must be ok with that also. I wouldn't be surprised if there exists a tiny bit of tobacco in this. The trail gets a lift from the coconut and cloves, so it doesn't have the darker, leathery finish that I love, in Vanille Havane. That makes sense because the dry down resembles a drink, as it might sit in your glass, after the initial sips (or gulps).

Finally available ! I had already shared my thoughts a while ago since I was lucky to try it before it came out. As usual you can feel the effort to work on the main ingredient in a radical and pure way. When PdE makes a vetiver, it’s not your average vetiver, so don’t expect this to be your average vanilla. I couldn’t agree more with the review below, that rhum and spices are also main notes. This perfume is a tribute to an amazing drink Marc-Antoine was served during a visit in Madagascar. Love it or hate it, but you cannot ignore it. It’s strong, it’s definitely the best time of the year to wear it, it will warm you up! Once again, I must admire the craftmanship behind all of their perfumes.

The fragrance turned out wonderfully beautiful! From the very first breath, it seems to wrap you in a gentle warmth. There is a sensation of fine aged alcohol, but not in a mono format. The composition is softened by noble woods, a pinch of refined spices and a dry, slightly powdery cocoa nuance. Altogether it creates an incredibly atmospheric, cozy and even slightly warming character. The scent itself is very soft and delicate, without any harshness. Thanks to this harmony, I can easily imagine it on both women and men. It’s universal, comfortable, and at the same time sophisticated.

I broke my rule of never blind-buying perfumes with this one, and I’m glad I did. This is a very original take on vanilla - far from a cosy gourmand. Instead, it’s dry, boozy, and woody. It immediately brings to mind an old rum barrel, with the boozy and woody facets clearly in the foreground. The vanilla is slightly powdery, only gently sweet, and gives the composition an elegant, calming backbone. It reminds me somewhat of Mona di Orio Vanille, though Madagascar is darker, more boozy, and less sweet. A beautiful, refined creation by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato.

This perfume Is really outstanding! The booziness it's mostly in the head notes, What I really enjoy Is the Heart of the fragrances, with the juxtaposition of and extremely dark, Sweet, sticky note of vanilla, with an extremely bitter cocoa and spiky tabacco. The impression Is that of a vanilla-flavored cigar dipped in rum and some dried fruits molasses. The smokiness Is definitely there, the darkness Is never pierced by the light, this guy Is voluptuous, drinks, smokes and eats bitter chocolate. Very european. This Is fabulous.

FINALLY ! Finally a fragrance from this brand that I love. I tried a few before this one, and didn't like any, which is pretty rare. This one though is wonderful. Do not expect a pure vanilla scent, it's not it. Vanilla is the star of the show, but the rum and spices are definitely sharing the stage. It's bold, strong, spicy, slightly sweet. Wonderful creation, true niche at its best. The price is very decent for the quality. I'll probably buy a full bottle for my birthday later this winter. Performance is huge.

my favorite boozy fragrance and almost my favorite vanilla if musc ravageur didnt exist ( no compare obv) . the rum is really strong but only in the first few minutes . then it blends perfeclty with all the others notes . The evolution on my skin is really interesting, after an hour, everytime I smell it I smell something different from vanilla to banana as well as rum and spices . Definitely not for everybody, not for every occasion, not in every spaces . But BEAUTIFUL SEXY AND COMPLEX

Starts off VERY boozy and spicy. The peppers and cloves are noticable. After a bit the cacao comes through on my skin, dark and bitter. I get a bit of the coconut which adds a very slight lactonic edge. The drydown is an utterly amazing boozy vanilla that retains some spicy / darker elements. Does not remind me of Vanille Havane much, even though they are both boozy vanilla fragrances with cacao. Overall, probably one of the best vanilla fragrances on the market right now.

An absolute delight! This evokes vanilla custard drenched in spiced rum and served with a solid gold spoon. It’s rich, decadent, and definitely boozy, but still manages to steer away from being cloying or overtly-edible. A masterpiece in my books!

This is very rum forward, with cloves and vanilla in the back. Very long lasting, but not dense, sticky. It reminds me of a vanilla black tea, with spices and rum. I would say it is unisex but it leans a bit on the masculine side.

I debated sharing my thoughts on this since it hasn’t been officially released, but it’s too good to keep to myself. Huge thanks to Alexis from Parfum D’Empire for the unexpected and beautiful surprise. When I heard the news that Marc-Antoine was doing a Vanilla perfume, I had my doubts, to put it lightly. Then, I recalled Ruade and how glorious that one turned out to be, and decided to put my trust in one of the very few noses that never failed to impress me. This man is one of the most consistent perfumers out there, and that’s why I’m following him closely. Now, I am not a vanilla lover, and I don’t like sweet/gourmand perfumes. However, if they are handled well, I can be swayed. For reference, perfumes such as Roucel’s Musc Ravageur, Jinkoh’s Vanilla Paradise, Vaan from NOT Perfumes, Guerlain’s Spiritueuse Double Vanille, Mona’s Vanille, and Lutens’ Un Bois Vanille are a few that I own or appreciate. And now, I am adding this upcoming Parfum D’Empire creation to that list. Yes, it is worth ranking among them. However, this one brings something different to the game, a heavy emphasis on Rum. Hence, be prepared for a proper “boozy experience.” When I received the decant, I decided to run tests on paper strips and skin without reading the blurb. A complete blind test. I was not expecting the rum and the dried fruits to play such a significant role in the composition. Then I started picking up the tobacco, the spices, the woods, and hints of coconut(very soft). Obviously, the vanilla is omnipresent, and they used a tincture, a CO2 extract, and the absolute. Therefore, you get a myriad facets. Nothing like the cheap vanillin-saturated compositions that swamp the market, most often infused with a generous sickly-sweet amount of ethyl maltol. The dry fruit accord is very pronounced for me, although not listed, and I suspect it might be a “phantom note” as a result of the materials used; both the vanilla and the tobacco can give off such facets. The texture of the fragrance is very “syrupy,” like a vanilla-flavored beverage. On paper, it shifted from syrupy to leafy-dry, and then back, but on my skin, it never gets dry and stays slimy throughout. The sweetness has become manageable now after wearing it five times, although during the first tests, I was certain it was too sweet for me. Perhaps I got used to it. All I know is that it doesn’t bother me now. Based on the name, I was expecting a very balmy experience, not such a treacly one. Afterward, I read the pamphlet that describes the composition and the inspiration behind the scent, and it started to make sense. Apparently, Marc-Antoine decided to capture in this perfume an “unforgettable beverage” he had the pleasure of enjoying during his trips to Madagascar. A beverage made from rum infused with vanilla pods, among others. While I didn’t have the luck of tasting such an indigenous delicacy, I think he did manage to evoke that experience through this perfume. As mentioned, it feels like a rum specialty drink infused with vanilla, perhaps served with some dried fruits and cigars on the side. The tobacco is present but not too overt. I believe it plays a supporting role rather than trying to establish itself, and helps to create the dried fruit accord. From the spices, I get lots of clove, more than cinnamon, and I don’t pick up the cocoa at all. The coconut is hardly noticeable, poking its head in and out, more to imbue an exotic feel than assert itself. It makes me think of those dry coconut flakes you sprinkle on cookies. There are some musks, a faint smokiness, and woods in the base to offer a solid backbone for the composition and gently pull it out from its “syrupy” trajectory. It is a thoroughly enjoyable perfume from start to finish. From the hot blast of rum in the opening to the smoky woods in the dry-down. To recapitulate, this is, in my opinion, a boozy perfume first, focusing on rum, and a vanilla perfume second. To my nose, the major players are the rum, dried fruits, vanilla, and tobacco, in that order. The remainder of the notes and accords are not as important to discuss in detail. I feel it is quite a unique take on vanilla, and definitely different from other Corticchiato scents. However, while wearing it, I was reminded of two other perfumes: Ambre Narguile from Hermes and Enigma Pour Homme Parfum from Roja Dove. They don’t smell alike, but they give off a similar vibe - boozy, spicy, warm with vanilla-like undertones. Will I be lining up for it once it gets officially released? As of now, I think not. I enjoy it very much, but it’s not a type of fragrance that I crave and reach for often, and I already have Ambre Narguile stocked for life. However, I adore the rum aspect of this perfume and how it blends with the dried fruits and the vanilla. It is quite addictive. There are a few rum-centered perfumes that captivated me, and out of them, I think this one has made the best impression. I will continue to enjoy my decant and see where it leads me. If there’s anything that might persuade me, it's the boozy aspect. Generally, Corticchiato’s perfumes fall into two categories: orientals and agrestics. I own all his bucolic tributes, and while I love his orientals, I don’t own any of them currently(although I used to own several). But I would rank Le Baume Vanille among his best orientals. Given that it was able to thrill even a non-vanilla lover like myself, I am certain that it will be well-received by the community. I just want to re-emphasize that this is more of a boozy fragrance than a vanilla-gourmand. And now, I need to get myself a trip to Madagascar and experience that “unforgettable beverage.” Unforgettable enough to convince Marc-Antoine that if you can’t drink it on a daily basis, you can at least wear it. IG:@memory.of.scents

TLDR Bitter vegetal cacao, syrupy, not sweet, subtle spices, liquid smoke. If you aren't familiar with bitter vegetal cacao you may find this shocking. It is also kinda syrupy, but in a dark way. Argos fragrances are syrupy like this, but Argos are lighter like candy. This MLBV is for sure not candy, but it is dense and rich. The Armani stronger with you intensely also has this syrupy quality, but SWYI goes in a really spiced direction. This is for sure niche and won't be for everyone, I don't think. FYI this is not an overtly sweet formula, but it has some hints. In Mexico there is a city called Oaxaca and they are famous for their artisan rugs sewn by the current generation of the Maya people, and they're known for their Chocolate. The best Oaxaca chocolate comes from Chocolate Mayordomo. They cut it with sugar and cinnamon. I would imagine if the Mayordomo chocolate was more syrupy and vegetal and less sweet, it would be something like this. This for sure goes through phases. I think there's a reason companies don't make fragrances like this. I imagine it would be extremely challenging to get something like this right. The notes burn off and fuse in phases and I think the 1-3 hour mark is the best. Starts of incredibly rich and after 3 hours it's for sure a subtle vanilla with hints of cacao. The dry down is really the best part. I imagine if they wanted it perfect in the opening, the drydown would be horrible. Overall it's nice throughout. An extremely complicated endeavor, I can imagine. I would also like to add that there is an element of something like liquid smoke, or the smell that some meat has been smoked, but without any meat smell. a like for me 8/10

Oh my! Gorgeous strong boozy vanilla fragrance! Beautiful. As the name tell us « une vanille baumée ». Not sweet but spicy and a little smoky. I’m just return to my favorite boutique in Paris to smell all the new parfumes (such as all vanilla of BDK, atelier des ors, musicology...). Parfum d’empire is the most memorable and creative. I love rhum in perfume but mostly I’m don’t wear them (too strong on me), BUT this one will change the game. Definitely I will test this one on my skin as soon as possible! Ps : maybe as the same category of « Vanille Havane Les Indemodables » ? I had briefly sniff this one last year and I dont remember very clearly, I will also test this one soon again.

A rare clever vanilla; quite complex yet every single string is building this illusion of this full bodied dual soliflore. So viscerally it feels like taking a rum shot while scraping seeds straight from the vanilla pod. Nothing too novel, this profile is almost cliché of niche lines at this point but it's easily the most enjoyable I've come across.

It's great quality, but I wouldn't really call it a "vanilla" in the "vanilla extract/dessert" sense, or even in the "vegetal/bean" sense. It's "vanilla" in the sense it is round and sweet -- because Rum is really its dominant accord. Aged rum has a lot of vanila from the barrel wood, and that's here. I think this is mostly Rum and Cloves.

Smells like Hennessy. Booze is the starplayer in this one, don’t get it if you don’t like boozy scents. I also get fruit-like notes, maybe dried fruits. Fragrance is done really well. I don’t know what animalic notes smell like but this gives me sexy wild animal with a hangover. Very weird but still lovely