Satori

I had the clear frosted glass bottle of Satori so I hope that’s the same as this black one featured here. I was introduced to Satori by the lovely Tanja Deurloo from the amazing niche fragrance store Perfume Lounge in Amsterdam. This was the only fragrance which truly captivated me - even Tanja explained that it was so emotive that it made her cry upon first sniff. It’s said to contain “all five traditional flavor dimensions: spicy, bitter, sweet, sour, and salty. Spicy: cinnamon and clove. Bitter: cacao. Sweet: vanilla (vanilla orchid). Sour & salty nuances: hinted with bergamot and oakmoss in a subtle chypre accord.” But it’s such perfume excellence that no one note dominates, as it smells like a fond memory or of a suggestion of an inspirational feeling rather than a specific scent. (I realise this sounds ambiguous, especially as my purpose is to try to convey exactly what this smells like.) Satori is such an olfactory expression, it may be the most subjective scent to ever be created. To me, it smelt pure, clean and tranquil like reflections or shadows against translucent paper. It’s the steam from a luxury spa that’s warm but gentle, ethereal and profound. I’m not even sure if you can touch this scent or if it just exists as a moment of contemplation. I can see how the influence of traditional Japan has influenced Satori’s refinement and captured a nuanced silence akin to moving silk. If I’m pushed to pick out notes, I’m aware there’s layered woody notes with subtle sandalwood and “supreme-grade agarwood, once said to be worth more than its weight in gold” combined with gentle frankincense and Japanese incense which gives a suggestion of warmth, calm and serenity. Satori certainly encapsulates “spiritual refinement and the quiet power of tradition” but to experience and decipher it yourself is the key here, as Satori is the silent glow that graces you with cherished memories. Longevity isn’t great, but memories can return at a press of the atomiser.

A true gem. Timeless and unique. All the notes I love in one bottle. The fragrance changes smoothly as time passes, no clear cut between the notes. No sweetness in spite of the vanilla, but still warm because of the base notes. Spicy without being sharp. Fresh and dark at the same time, the oud is absolutely there, but fortunately doesn't get smoky tones. Serious, but not overpowering or heady. Attractive, erotic even, without being seductive. Being a woman (38), I use it when I need to focus and/or want to feel feminine without getting flirty: meetings, conference, theatre. Goes better with white shirt or black dress than with jeans. It is supposed to be unisex, and in this case, I guess it might be true. It somehow cleans my mind and makes me feel professional in a feminine way. I travelled with this scent, and I found it performs better in humid climate than in the drier continental air. (Maybe the oak moss?) Longevity is shorter, sillage is softer than you would think. Some might think it is not a good thing, especially considering the price (16.000 JPY excl. tax), but I feel it is exactly because it comes from the Japanese concept of fragrance: the first rule that it shouldn't offense others. Maintaining group harmony by not overpowering the air. And instead of longevity, again, Japanese value appreciating the fleeting moment, the disappearance. The bottle design is simple yet elegant. A couple of years ago I visited Ms. Satori's shop in Tokyo. It is a charming and tiny shop, and she told stories of her fragrances, and showed me how she created the perfumes. It was a great experience, absolutely recommended, if you have a chance.

The bottle is elegant. Sleek black with a kikko-man label. Osawa-san created this perfume the year I graduated high school. It starts off with the bergamot and incense and quickly blooms into cinnamon and cloves rounded with chocolate and vanilla. Just like sakura blossom season (and quite Japanese) this perfume quickly fades and becomes a skin scent on me. I have to press my nose against my wrist to smell it. Very non-offensive and gorgeous. It is incense and dry woods. I catch cinnamon and vanilla periodically. Quite a well constructed and methodically produced perfume layers that take this perfume to an art form. Very Japanese. Very beautiful and elegant. Wearing it I feel like a special guest at a ceremony. I imagine this is what a bonsai tree smells like in a shrine: it's ancient and well tended roots permeated by years of incense burning. I can smell it's meticulously groomed branches and see it's stillness. Arigatou gozaimasu, Osawa-san!! What a treasure!

I finally got to try it! and what an experience!! This is very different from the oud most of us are used to—not European, Middle Eastern, or Southeast Asian, but specifically Japanese. It's about Kodo, a meticulous act of "listening" to incense. The fragrance captures the smell of a room filled with aromas of a seasoned Kyara chip (which is something I've always dreamt to do); I can imagine myself detecting all 5 facets with the masters, while some are stronger than others (especially spiciness & saltiness), they all contribute to this harmony. The theme actually suggests it's more of an incense fragrance than an oud one; with that understanding, you shouldn't overlook this gem and instead appreciate its complexity! It literally smells so good I want to sleep and wake up to it!

Parfum Satori Satori (2006) - tranquil woods - Japanese perfumer #satoriosawa combines resins, incense, florals and woods to create this well-balanced and fine tuned accord that resemble Kyara incense. I get traditional incense spices such as Sandalwood, Cardamom, Cloves mixed with dry & powdery Iris. As the fragrance progresses, I get Benzoin resins & moss while the main woody accord still remains. Throughout my trip in Japan, this fragrance has been beautifully ambient - always there, but will offend no one. Regular re-sprays throughout the day makes one relive the fresh and crisp topnote along with this wonderful creation. A must to get when in Japan.