Enigme

While this is clearly a delineation of 80s woody, spicy powerhouses that combine both chypre and fougere elements, Enigme is a forgotten gem that seems to find all the telltale components elevated to a rapturous level. A spicy, aromatic opening? But of course. A heart of rugged, yet quenching florals, including carnation and geranium? Naturally. Oakmoss? We've got that and plenty of it, along with all the labdanum, the musk, and just about anything firm, bold, and fixative in the dry down. "But how does Enigme stand out?" you might ask. Perfumer Alberto Morillas has sheered out these elements expertly, in a way that would make sense if there were successful progressions to this style, as this was released in 1992, a turning point in fragrance history where this wasn't exactly the direction, as clean, aquatic, bright, and fruity was de rigueur by this time (think Kenzo Pour Homme, Cool Water, Minotaure). Enigme was far too dense and therefore was deemed archaic, which is a shame, as it could've been wildly successful had the love affair with calone and dihydromyrcenol had not yet taken center stage. This was ten years after Drakkar Noir, so there was plenty of time to improve upon this style. I personally find this far more satisfying of a wear, with no rough edges, and more compelling as it sings with a bit more gusto and clarity (while still carrying that brazen edge). I compare it with a similar out-of-step release Montana Parfum d'Homme in that both exceeded their forebears but were a little late in their arrival. Therefore, both are ripe for rediscovery at a time where we are revisiting with enthusiasm these beefy aromatic juggernauts. Also, it goes without saying that the bottle is one of my favorites of all that are in my collection.

This is a precious cologne I bought it in the summer of 2015 and it smells so good it is a citrus type of cologne with cinnamon, vanilla, and lavender and is one of the best colognes that I ever sprayed. It is a must have because even both men and women always gave me compliments on this one. The most precious thing in life is that I wore it on Valentine's Day of 2016 when the love of my life and I were together and having that cologne sprayed on my skin on that historic day is a wonderful privilege. #NewOrleansLouisiana #BourbonStreetLove #History #ILoveYouMyLove

Enigme is very close to Derby by Guerlain & Xeryus by Givenchy 👍 a very nice scent created by the great Alberto Morillas ❤️ nice scent now discontinued by Cardin 👎 each time I wear it I get lots of compliments 😁

Out of curiosity and a fascination for the interesting flacon-design, I splurged on a bottle. I find Enigme to be a robust, aromatic fougere, grounded in the '70's-80's style without any heed whatsoever to the new trends of lightness and simplicity happening in men's fragrances in the early '90's. This might be why it wasn't a successful launch for 1992, and why there are so few bottles to be had now. It bears some similarities to Drakkar Noir, but is far "soapier" with aldehydes. It reminds me also of Halston 1-12, but is spicier (you could say "cloves" or "carnation", but it is eugenol either way) with a more-pronounced note of lavender also in the heart. As I have time, I may add more to this description later, but these are my first notes. Longevity is beyond 12 hours, and wears like the brash-and-ballsy powerhouse that is was meant to be.

A great fragance! tonic and dinamistic, really optimistic. I imagine a light and waterly Tiffany for Men, or goes in the same vein of Vichy colognes for men.