Fleurs d'Amour

[JULY 2023] Bottle from the early 1950s(?) in perfect condition with stamps at the bottom still attached, reads: "GRAND PRIX PARIS 1900 -- MONS CONCOURS MEMBRE du JURY 'A [grade]'". Cork abcess stopped perfume from degrading over the years, which I pushed down to sink down the bottle, of which the latter was the size of the palm of my hand, not hand itself. Twist cap. Perfume applied smells of: Sweet-sour-musk of animalic civet, salty castoreum (ambergris?), honeyed soapy incense (not smoked), and the fragrance wafts through the air gently and pleasantly and from a good distance where the flowers can be picked of some sort of tea-like jasmine, ylang ylang (most prevalent), and sweet violets. Oakmoss? Probably as powder, not herbs. A 200ml is still sold in Arabian stores still of the same quality found in this 50s bottle today. But you are best purchasing MDCI's Chypre Palatin which smells exactly like a cousin of FLEURS D' AMOUR. If the powder notes are the closest to a Grossmith, its the closest to the scent of fine makeup powder found in a Chanel but far more warm amber, animalic and of honey and violets and not at all like of Iris Poudre by Frederic Malle. I suggest purchasing CHYPRE PALATIN over this and unless you had the dosh, get a GROSSMITH. Overall, high caliber stuff. Just don't underestimate the strength of MDCI Parfums and post-IFRA reformulations since 2022 and beyond.

I was fortunate to acquire a pristine, sealed 2 oz Extrait Flacon of this recently. I'm fairly certain it's late 1920s to mid 1930s. I'm amazed to find it opens with orange, spice and soapy aldehydes that linger as it moves into a sweet mixed floral bouquet starring carnation; I expected any top notes to be gone but they're here for a good bit. The only flower that stands out is carnation though at moments I catch rose and geranium. The base is mossy, resinous and musky with civet, oppoponax, vetiver, sandalwood, tonka. I've fallen in love with it. It's a bright unique floral aldehydic with oriental touches.

I have a bottle of the old perfume. It still has a very strong scent to it. I collect old vintage perfume so had to buy this one without having any idea what it smelled like. It's a bit too strong for me for every day, but works wonderful to sprinkle on sheets or linens to give them that nice clean and sensual scent. It does have a real clean and soapy powdery scent to it along with a bit of fruit and lily of the valley. Almost reminds me a little of Ma Griffe.

From a 1950s nip, Fleurs d’ Amour is definitely a “fruity-floral”, and it was used as an example of a “fruity-blend” in perfume types of the day. There’s almost a fruit-nut vibe going on with this one. the closest (still in modern production) fragrance I can compare it to is “Fantasia de Fleurs”, by creed, it’s like a cheap knockoff of Fantasia. I’m not surprised that this scent was unpopular when it was launched in 1902. There’s something about it that comes off as “strange”, I guess it’s because with a name like “Fleurs d’ Amour”, I’m still looking for the flowers in it. Fleurs d’ Amour smells like an experiment in wistful thinking from the distant past.

Very classic floral over a warm, musky base, not dissimilar to the famous Parfum Ideal by Houbigant. If you dial down the tonka bean base in Ideal and as a whopping dose of civet, impossible they're basically identical in terms of top and heart notes. Unfortunately for me, I cannot stand the use of civet in perfumery and this really ruined the perfume for me. Absolutely worth trying if you enjoy Chanel No. 5 or other early classics. Frankly, I find most perfumes up until the 60s to smell quite similar to these 3 famous powerhouse sellers!

Citrus floral, and orange blossoms. An interesting fresh yet animalic blend of captivation. Powdery animalic with orange honey, and lime aldehydes. Carnation and geranium, oakmoss, lily of the valley, opoponax, ylang, vetiver, and oranges. This is complex, the deeper you dig the more new horizons you experience! the colder the powdier it become. A very interesting blend. Edit (30+ minutes in) it reminds me of Grossmith's blends, and most likely "Shem El Nessim". Edit (2+ Hours) It settled to be similar to "Phul Nana" by Grossmith.