Chypre-Siam

I wanted to try Manny Cross's fragrances because they are so highly lauded, and because he has a great offer on Etsy for a sampling of ten among his line for Rogue Perfumery for a great price. This was the one I especially wanted to try because, new to fragrances, I have wanted to try what a _true_ chypre is like, since the type is so famous among perfume aficionados, and many have said this particular fragrance seems the closest today to what François Coty was doing when he popularized the type in the early 20th century with his famous Chypre. And, one of the things I have found in reading literature about fragrances is that it's apparently difficult to explain sometimes what a chypre actually smells like, especially since real oakmoss (its base) is so limited in use anymore. But Cross uses real oakmoss in this (since he doesn't export it and so isn't bound by international restrictions on using oakmoss), so this gave me a chance to see what the fuss is about. I still have yet to try the chypres to which this is so often compared, like Mitsouko or Derby, and my nose isn't sophisticated enough yet to describe all the notes in this yet. What I can say is that Cross's publicity material about this smelling like a Southeast Asian forest seems believable to me. The mossiness is the main note, with indolic jasmine behind it mostly to open up your nose, and the basil and the kaffir-lime at the top also makes this seem more Indochinese in flavor. This does not seem old fashioned to me because the ingredients seem fresh and powerful (be aware a very little goes a long way in terms of projection); but it does evoke another era nonetheless. I keep thinking this is something like what the protagonists would wear in Jean Rhys's novels of the early 1930s. I feel very adult in wearing this. The jasmine, though not overpowering, is slightly feminine, but this is balanced out by the moss and basil: this seems like a true unisex fragrance. I do keep sniffing my wrists all day to get a good whiff of it, which is always my hallmark of a fully lovable perfume. Even though this projects strongly, I seem to want more of it. I will probably eventually have to buy a full bottle (and are there cooler retro bottle labels than Rogue Perfumery's?).

While scrolling Instagram recently, I couldn’t help but notice a photo of Chypre-Siam, being the vintage Coty fan that I am. It reflects the 1940’s ish French foil label style they used, and the same green and gold colors used for Chypre, the chypre that started them all. So, I hit the brakes and started reading. The review was really positive so I immediately became interested. I commented that I it looked authentically vintage and the Instagrammer responded “smells even more vintage”. Okay, that’s all it took so I started googling. I found the website and was immediately sold by the up front, no holds barred, proud exclamation by Manuel Cross of Rogue as being “non IFRA compliant fragrance art”. No stammering, no dancing around it, no “I hope nobody notices we aren’t compliant”, none of that, he clearly says I make perfume the way I want. I like him already. Okay, back to Chypre-Siam. Cross completely nails the feel of Coty Chypre although it’s not a dupe or anything. But it’s that classically structured chypre. Fans of real oakmoss will be delighted by his “IFRA can jump off into a lake” stance because it’s full of it. This is a true classic chypre, masterfully created, and if you like true vintage style, run, don’t walk to try it. When I first smelled it I thought how can a new perfumer selling stuff on Etsy make something this good? Then I researched more and found that Manuel has been studying perfumery, fragrance history and aroma chemicals for 10 years. Being a chef by trade, I assume that skill transferred over into making perfume. I really can’t stress enough how good this perfume is. I’m a chypre fanatic, it’s probably my favorite genre, at least in the top two, and this is one of the best I’ve smelled. It’s perfectly balanced, opening is gorgeous and the fragrance hold steady and beautiful until the far drydown. It seems perfumers go for different things. Some for something offbeat, others for this or that, but there are some that go for perfected beauty. A truly “finished” creation, even if it takes years to perfect it. That is what I feel Manuel Cross is doing. Don’t let the Etsy fool you, this is seriously good perfume. PS, my rave is 100% honest. This is a completely unsolicited review as are all.

Oh, my god. Picture a hairy man wearing a loin cloth, standing on a tree stump, shouting, "I AM A GENTLEMAN!" That is the opening of this perfume. I have never had a scent actually make me feel more confident. What an amazing smell. I feel like I could hunt down a wildebeest. Or close a corporate merger. Either way. In my short time since I began exploring fragrance, I wondered what a "chypre" was. I suspected from reading that most of my experience had been with fougeres. Outside of the vast variation available there, I couldn't imagine a cologne smelling some "other way". Now, I remember. The second I put this on, I recognized it from... somewhere in the past. I might have been rightly turned down for a job that I made it to the second interview round of by someone wearing it. I think the lawyer who once won an unemployment suit for me might have worn something like this, or maybe the judge when I was arrested for criminal trespass 3rd degree when I was 16. Or maybe, just maybe, as a child, reading my favorite Doctor Strange comic books, watching him traverse the Dark Dimension in mystic battle against the Dread Dormammu and Baron Mordo, I imagined he smelled like this. Yes, I think that last one might be it. This is the scent of a man who can perceive an eldritch threat against this very dimension, and knows what to do about it. A man who saves an entire realm against the threat of the Mindless Ones and hardly breaks a sweat. At least, provided he can do it within the next 20-30 minutes. Because by that point, the scent already begins to fade. Two and a half hours later, it's a ghost of a scent, a barely-there nimbus of occasional warm spice. After three hours, it's not even that. The hairy gentleman's lunch break is long over and he's gone back to his desk in the accounting office, still content from the memory of the wildebeest he caught for lunch but beginning to feel that mid-afternoon drowse. He's still in control but glad meetings are over for the day. Here in the Dark Dimension, the Mindless Ones have broken through the barrier, the Omnipotent Oshtur can't be bothered to heed my summons, and I've accidentally stepped on the Wand of Watoomb and broken it in two. True story.

Outstanding. Amazing. Genuinely brilliant - because reviews below show real chypre-lovers, who know what they're talking about, love this. I am usually highly leery of classic chypres, which this is, and know hardly anything about them - yet I love Chypre Siam too. So it's just as great for a clueless newcomer as it is for a seasoned genre fan. This has all the complexity and punch and maturity of the real no-compromise vintage versions - a hefty, acerbic bite of oak moss always making itself felt - yet none of the harsh chemical aura, or almost metallic edge, which turns me off many of those old classics. Chypre Siam is the very best of 1930s-40s retro without the occasional frumpiness - a more mellow and flattering experience altogether. While it's strong and savoury in parts, things never get over-bitter. Plenty of real grunt and growl in the bottom end, still - this is so heady it's almost distracting, always flashing some new facet, always in full control. Just enough floral and basil to give sparks of sweetness amid the bracing, invigorating, characterful whirl. It's kind of a snappily-tailored skirt suit, with butch details, in green wool that's still sharp and sexy. Makes me feel as if Katharine Hepburn back in her prime is holding me to account and I'm loving every second of it. An unarguable, dominant, no-messing hit, made by someone who really cares and really knows how - and pretty miraculously priced for what it is, too! Bravo!! Could well be unisex on the right person; pretty large and solid sillage at first, though this shrinks in a couple of hours to arms' length, but still a robust presence; overall longevity a little less than its bossy beginning might make you think, but still pretty dang respectable at 6-7h in total. Well my my. It's really something special.

Chypre Siam absolutely old school gorgeous! This does remind me of something I smelled a long time ago on a stranger back in the 70s. An elegant woman in heels and a fur. Chypre Siam is a nostalgic perfume. This is BRILLIANT! All of the above accords are right except there should be a powdery accord as well. The composition is so well blended that the perfume swirls around you like a fine fragrant mist sent from heaven. It is the type of fragrance that creates a haze like effect around the wearer. An unforgettable haze. Not like many perfumes today that showcase their notes as if each one listed must be on neon display and PROVE it is there leaving nothing to chance. A predictably that I have really grown to dislike. Chypre Siam smells like old money, women in fur coats and the finest leather heels. But most of all chypre Siam smells like a mystery. The way perfumes are supposed to smell. Mysterious, something that stirs the imagination and inspires a person to dream. And most of all creates an aura of mystique around the wearer. The woman who wears this gorgeous creation will at least feel like she has it all. She will be the enigma that everyone will want to solve, to know, and aspire to be.. Absolutely bewitching, classy, haunting and sensual. Old school perfumery at it's finest. Full bottle worthy. Mysterious, and utterly beguiling. Edit: I don't agree with comparisons to Guerlain mitsuko. Are they both chypres, yes but that is about it for similarity. While I appreciate mitsuko I found it unwearable and in the end parted with my bottle. I personally find chypre Siam warmer, rounder, softer, and more sensual and much more enjoyable to wear. Mitsuko in comparison seems a bit harsh and desert dry. Chypre Siam is lush and fully alive.

STUNNING!!!! I wasn't always a fan of chypres and greenies. I just wanted to feel and smell pretty and/or sexy, and to me, that meant florals and orientals. It wasn't until I began my fragrance "awakening" and journey, due in no small measure to Fragrantica, that I began to understand and appreciate different types of fragrances. Along the way, I learned first to appreciate and then adore chypres. As far as I am concerned, there is no better chypre than Chypre Siam currently in production. It more than holds it's own and in many cases surpasses the beauty of the past greats as well. I started off the day wearing Lancome's beautiful Sikkim, which I also love. The problem was and is that it does not perform well for me. I get poor longevity and light projection. Instead of reapplying it when it died down, I remembered my sample of CS, and applied it instead. Dear Lord!!!! It is jaw dropping beautiful!! It's one of those fragrances that is challenging to analyze because the notes and accords combine in such a way as to create something new and whole in it's own right. Yes, there's plenty of inky oak moss, and some jasmine and spiciness, but I think what makes it so spectacular is that Manny uses nitromusks - the banned chemicals that add lusciousness and sparkle to older perfumes. You can not smell them per se, but you miss them when they're not there.

Chypre-Siam was a revelation. I’m not a vintage lover—there are plenty of current artisan and niche houses doing wonderful things that I don’t feel the need to track down perfumes that are long gone, and I’m too young to have any nostalgia for them. But, Rogue has been resurrecting some of these styles, and Chypre-Siam is probably the first full and glorious classic chypre I’ve ever really smelled. The kaffir lime note that opens this fragrance—lush and slightly candied, a little tropical and coconutty—is unlike anything I’ve ever smelled in perfume before. It’s straight out of Thai cuisine. I wish I could extend it tenfold, but I’ll take of it what I can. It folds beautifully into the overall composition, combined at the opening with a bit of sweet basil and intensely piquant florals (more ylang than jasmine, to my nose). There’s a soft hint of spice, both from a peppery clove note and underlying resins, that help round this out. All over a huge bed of savory, dense oakmoss and a lingering, but subtle, civet funk. This won’t personally ever be one I wear every day, but it’s an incredible experience. It’s a bit femme fatale to me—a classic archetype, overwhelming and completely engrossing in a dark and slightly dangerous way; sex and a hint of disaster simultaneously. It’s a beautiful, expertly-crafted achievement.

This is such a pleasure to wear. I love chypres, especially ones that smell a bit more traditional or old-fashioned, and what makes Chypre-Siam so special is that it's not just modeled on the classic chypre structure, but actually has the ingredients to back it up. As somebody who actually does have sensitive skin and therefore has never been particularly upset by the IFRA standards, I must nevertheless admit that this fragrance makes a case against them, and for the continued use of natural ingredients. The real oakmoss here is so beautiful and multidimensional: herbal, grassy, fuzzy, earthy, spicy. The pungent kefir lime adds a dark, juicy citrus note that is accentuated by the ylang, and the jasmine-civet provides a musky floralcy. Sandalwood and benzoin round out this divine concoction with a creamy, resionous warmth. Chypre-Siam does indeed smell like something from decades past; it's retro-glam refinement recalls an age in which things were still made with quality natural ingredients in place of superficial synthetics. Very unisex and versatile, but this won't be for everybody, particularly those who prefer more mainstream scents. Amazing development, longevity, and sillage. Manuel Cross is a genius; any perfumista should give his creations a try (I myself am saving up to buy Flos Mortis). Thank you, Rogue!

I ordered 5 samples of Rogue Perfumery from Lucky Scent and this is the only one I can honestly say I like. Which doesn't mean I would buy it. It's a coldish fall day and I just went for a run and then I took a shower, had some coffee, ate a bowl of oatmeal, put on a wool sweater, and dabbed some of this fragrance on my neck and arms, and now I'm sitting here at my computer trying to understand it. Complex would be a good word. It doesn't smell cat pee to me at all. Rather there is an orchestra of many notes that is rising up from my body to my nose. They are elegant, symphonic, intellectual, mysterious, indescribable. I can't name a single note in this composition. I only know it smells great, and seems perfect for colder days and nights and listening to classical music, reading a book, or taking a nap under a wood blanket as it snows outside. As it dries down I guess I perceive something citrusy/flowery/musky. But I have to admit I cheated and looked at the top of this page for the notes that are allegedly in this fragrance. Without those hints I would be lost. So maybe if you want to get lost in a fragrance that has the characteristics of inscrutability, perplexity, and musicality this is for you.

I was looking for flankers of the original Chanel PM EDT sold as "Cologne" in the early 80s. After sampling a lot (Villorisi Uomo, Creed Portugal, Guerlain Vetiver, Guerlain Habit Rouge, Frederic Malle Extraordinaire, Floris #89, Floris Elite, Floris Bergamotto, Floris Neroli-Voyage, ADP Essenza, Le Labo Santal 33, Amouge Reflection Man, Prada L'Homme, the newer Chanel PM EDT, Dior ES EDT 1966, Hermes D'Terre) this may be the winner for the drydown similarity. There's still a few in the mail, like Xerjoff Fiero, which may be close. Overall, however, the oakmoss and basil are recognizable. This is a very elegant chypre, that is layered, architectural, with "tension," representing an earlier non-IFRA era. I will buy a bottle since this reminds me of old school chypres whose olfactory experience has been forgotten. FYI - in my journey back to rediscovery - I have to be very office safe now since I'm a graduate-level academic - I did buy a bottle of Penhaligon's Sartorial (wow!!!!), Dior ES EDT (1966), Villoresi Uomo, Guerlain Vetiver, and Chanel PM EDP. I can only put a spray or two under my shirt. Then I add a spray of Molecules 01 on the back of my neck to smooth out the edges of what I'm wearing.

One quick note before I talk about my reaction - I wish the perfumer as well as Fragrantica would consider dropping use of the word “kaffir” lime. It’s a name rooted in racism and “otherness” and is not what South Asian peoples call this fruit or its leaves. The term “makrut” lime is the preferred name as it is much closer to what it has been called in Thailand, Indonesia, etc. When we know better, we do better. This issue is easily googled for more info. Thanks! Well. Mr. Cross, I have owned a tiny amount of vintage original Coty Chypre Parfum, and I must say, you have an amazing modern Chypre here that does the genre justice! This is GORGEOUS! As soon as I sprayed myself with my new bottle (blind buy), I’m swooning with how it’s so Utterly breathtaking. The oak moss bomb in here is everything I wanted. I adore the lime and basil opening, and then my nose is instantly THRUST into the florals and moss and spice and civet like we are having a decadent Chypre bacchanalia. It overwhelms my senses in the absolute best way, as only a Chypre-whore can appreciate (it’s me). This is classy, extravagant, seductive, yet, and dare I say, boss bitch? 1000% successful blind buy. Good lord I love this stuff.

When I was little I was especially close to one great aunt, who I named my daughter after. She would cuddle and rock me all the time and would let me poke around in dressers and wardrobes where she always kept pretty little soaps with colorful old fashioned drawings on the wrappings. That fragrance permeated her clothes so that even when she wasn’t wearing perfume, she still had a sweet soapy scent. She died long ago, after a decade of suffering from Alzheimer’s disease. It broke my little heart when she forgot me. This perfume makes me feel like she’s close. Apart from the memories it awakens, I’m so happy to smell this quality in perfume again, laden with the nostalgia of a classic chypre. I associate it generally with church and holidays in the old days, when ladies dressed their best and wore their special day perfume- fragrances that communicate something other than just “clean”, “sexy” or “sweet”. Maturity, seriousness, respect, taste, sophistication- so many aspirations contained in a bottle of fragrant liquid. It’s really lovely. But the best part of it for me is that it brings back the comfort of my beloved great aunt so vividly. I treasure my bottle for that alone.

@PepeLeMoko Thanks for sharing your thoughts, and your experience! I just wanted to provide a quick word of empathy and a suggestion. I also have allergic reactions to a handful of fragrances, and Chypre Siam is one of the worst (think raised, rough, itchy red skin at the application site). When I discovered my perfume sensitivity as a teenager, I was so crestfallen that I didn’t buy another fragrance for over a decade. It wasn’t until my late 20s that I finally allowed my passion and curiosity for perfumery pull me back into this amazing world. I still have reactions from time to time, but I don’t let that discourage me. I just make sure to patch test on a small, inconspicuous area of skin AND clothing when I sample new fragrances. If there’s one that I’m allergic to but performs well on fabric, I still buy it. I’ve also noticed that different parts of my body are more or less sensitive, depending on the fragrance. I know it’s more time and effort, but don’t get frustrated or disheartened—the extra steps are totally worth it. And in my experience, CS still wears very well on clothes, even if you can’t spray it directly on yourself. Good luck, and have fun!

Wearing my Oakmoss love, Chypre Siam by Rogue Perfumery. MY TAKE: It opens up with a very unique lemon note which reminds me of certain Thai cuisines, specifically their famous Tom Yum soup. Slowly as it settles on the skin, a distinct smell of tea starts to arise in the very backbone with the lime. Being a Non-IFRA compliant brand, this has a huge dose of natural oakmoss, which gives it that earthy petrichor esk thing that fabricates the smell of nature beautifully! The tea slowly starts to evaporate, enveloping the oakmoss magic with some indolic jasmine in the very drydown! To me, this is a very unique take on chypre, especially due to that kaffir lime note that controls the opening beautifully. Interms of performance, less is more for this! 1spray is the sweet spot for this beast, spraying more than that might put you off! If you're a fan of fragrances like Roja Dove's Diagalev, Chypre Palatin by MDCI, Guerlain's Mitsouko(vintage), or just raw oakmoss in general, you would go head over heels for this thing! Chypres being one of my favorite genres in perfumery, I just love this thing and I'll go as far as calling this a masterpiece.

My first associations were with Antaeus and Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme. The current formulation of VCAPH smells very rough and synthetic to my nose, so quality wise, Chypre Siam reminds me more of Antaeus, but structurally, I get more VCAPH from it, in the sense that "this is probably how VCAPH was supposed to smell like". Compared to Antaeus, Chypre Siam has more prominent florals, less herbal and woody notes, but exhibits a similar earthy, animalic and leathery accord in the base combined with resins and moss. The opening is indeed very rich, spicy, floral, just enough animalic, quite sweet and almost oriental (without being gourmand), and quite unisex. It's breakfast, lunch and dinner all in one. In the drydown, Chypre Siam turns simpler and more masculine, but unfortunately, this animalic leathery note also turns burnt-rubbery on me. And that is another thing that reminds me of VCAPH. On the fence with this one. I like it better than the current VCAPH, but not as much as the current Antaeus. Performance is very good for a modern EDT -- not nuclear, but easy enough to overspray.

I ordered this nearly 2 weeks ago and got it today with great excitement as I had done my research of current fragrances that use real civet and real oakmoss and low and behold, I found this fragrance house. I showered and applied a few sprays and I absolutely love it so far. It’s fresh, earthy, a tad clean yet slightly dirty, and aromatic. I don’t ever care for leather notes in fragrances as 99 percent of the time the note throws me off big time but when I read it was going to be a “soft leather” I gave in and blind brought it anyway. It’s certainly soft leather that becomes very mild and in the background after a while. So far I smell a blend of most of the notes and in the way I first described it. I’m on the hunt for real civet fragrances and this one is done just right and doesn’t choke you with the note although I would have liked a little more civet. Nevertheless, it’s a beautiful and worthy fragrance for everyday wear. I’ve gotten a sample of one of their other scents that contain the civet note that I look forward to trying so I’ll see which one is more “civety” of the two!

This fragrance is awesome! Actually, pretty much all Manuel's fragrances are great but this is definitely my favorite. I am a woman in my 30s and I was recommended this house. I bought the sample pack and immediately fell in love with this one and with '40 Rogue'. The oakmoss note in this fragrace is to die for. I also really love the animalic punch too as I am a huge fan of animalics in fragrance. This is a true chypre with an animalic punch to it. I have only had the fragrance a short time and it is already getting alot of compliments. The people at work who know I am a fragrance-whore, have said this is one of their favorites so far that I have worn. My collection ranges from cheapies to super high end. This fragrance is very affordable but smells like a high end fragrance because Maneul uses very high quality ingredients. It shows in the smell. I also get really good longevity with the fragrance. I work 12 hour shifts and can still smell it at the end of the day.

Tej83, I ordered a decant of this when it was a novelty, before prices rose. It was an utter monster. Since, I ordered a bottle and its not the same fragrance. Even down to the packaging. I dunno if it has been reformulated or simply watered down, but its not the same fragrance it was 2yrs ago. The same goes for Mousse Illuminee. I sent a decant of that back to the seller, it was so inferior to the original juice. At the higher price, im afraid im badly disappointed. Its still a nice fragrance, but not the beast it was. I dug out an old 5ml decant that was used up and had the unreachable 2 drops still in the bottom plus what was in the 'pipe'. I added 3ml of perfumers alcohol, shook and tried it, and its stronger and longer lasting than the current stuff at €156 a bottle. Disgraceful. Id pay £5 a ml for the original quality juice, but for this new batch id pass on it completely. I dont mind paying for quality, but I wont pay for inferiority

Chypre-Siam is an absolutely delightful creation and a must have for those who enjoy vintage-style chypres. The opening is dominated by a bitter, rindy and refreshing kaffir lime with aromatic touches of basil. Soft touches of slightly powdery, delicate jasmine and ylang begin to shine not long after which smooths out the overall scent profile. The star of the show is the oakmoss, which harks back to the bygone glory days of chypre perfumes. This thick, creamy mossy perfection elevates this scent to another level, taking you back to a more classical place in time. Subtle hints of civet and warm spices provide an addicting sharp bitterness in the background, secondary to the oakmoss. This fragrance is truly fantastic, the use of oakmoss reminds me heavily of my vintage Miss Dior which I absolutely adore. The quality is fantastic, this is an absolute must have for those passionate about vintage-style perfumery.

Chypre-Siam is exactly what it sounds like: a classic chypre with a distinct Thai basil note and an overall Southeast-Asian vibe. It works wonderfully. It has that dark-green-and-gold mossy grimy glamour; boozy ambered warmth and zippy, elegant sharpness; and a distinctive greenness about the citrus that makes me feel like I’m headed into a steamy jungle armed with bug spray. But somehow also in an evening gown. I’m Bette Davis in “The Letter” prowling around Malaya. The drydown is warm golden-brown amber with a faint lime-peel or spiced nuance. Very comfortable. Basically it hits a similar spot as Bogue Maai or Olympic Rainforest; a retro-glamour mossy chypre, with an unusual vivid-green herbal note that you’d never find in actual early-20th-c classic fragrances. Here it’s the makrut lime & Thai basil, in Maai and Olympic Rainforest it’s camphor. I love the effect, every time.