Derviche

Derviche isn’t particularly complicated and there is a familiarness to it that may make you feel like you smelled it somewhere before. But there is another side to it that is rather remarkable and I can’t quite put my finger on what it is. There is something about this fragrance that smells absolutely perfect. I literally can’t stop sniffing it and couldn’t wait to wake up and wear it again. It’s a gently sweetened oriental amber, with a lot of bergamot (particularly in the opening), vanilla, labdanum, civet, musk, ambergris and one of the most glorious indolic jasmines I’ve ever put my nose on. Together, they make a warm, sensual, silky smooth holy grail level vintage meets niche sweet amber. To me, it’s everything I wanted Ambre Narguile to be. I almost liked AN, but found it too cloying and apple pie like. Derviche reminds me of AN without those elements but with a slight vintage style added. “I wanted a rich old-school oriental amber fragrance with a bergamot opening but with the power of many of the fragrances coming from the Arabic perfume houses. I first developed a labdanum-rich amber base to build the fragrance around and then set out to experiment with the “power” behind it. This involved weeks of tweeking ratios between different musk and ambergris molecules until I found the balance I sought. I then gave it a heavy dose of the jasmine base I developed for Chypre-Siam. The “antique” mentioned in the fragrance notes is a reference to the older jasmine bases used around the turn of the century. I used cues from these bases in developing my own.” I am so impressed by Manuel’s perfumes I have probably driven him crazy with my messages. I’m really picky. Really, I am. And these perfumes are some of the best I’ve ever smelled. Maybe it’s because my nose matches what his nose smells, not sure, but three of his perfumes (the tuberose one, the chypre and this one) are some of the best perfumes I’ve smelled, and the tuberose/white rose one (Champs Lunaires) is one of the nicest white florals I have EVER smelled. After smelling these I will NEVER look at Etsy perfume the same way again.

I got the oil discovery set. I put this on skin and wow. It is nice. It does have a Civet note in it ,but it is not a big note or hugely animalic. Tom Ford Noir edp is more animalic than this. Andy Tauer Sundowner is also much more animalic than Derviche too. ( One of my favorite scents). It is a very light Civet. I love Derviche. Much more than Chypre-Siam and Tabac Vert. Derviche transports me to the past somehow. Not sure why. Could be the antique Jasmine ,Leather and Tobacco. I did go to many Flea markets as a kid. Something in my childhood i suspect. I would put this as unisex. The drydown does remind me of Tauer Sundowner but much more lightweight after a few hours. Sundowner is much more animalic and beast mode. Still good For context on strength, this is much lighter than Tauer Sundowner, Les Indemodables Vanille Havane,Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, PDM Herod,John Varvatos Dark Rebel Rider etc. Definitely for all weather and occasions. There are some florals here too. The Florals soften things up a bit. If you were looking for an animalic Civet here then I am afraid this is not it. I still like this scent but not for any of the Civet. More for the composition as a whole. Derviche is a good entrance into SOME aspects of Animalics. Very lightweight beginning and end. This will not scare you at all. Unlike Bortnikoff, Areej Le dore or Anonim. Start your journey here. What's next after Derviche? Try Zoologist Moth. Another entrance into Animalics that are lighter. Far less sweet than Derviche. More powdery and smoky though over Derviche.

Manuel Cross has a knack for choosing some wonderful names for his scents, just downright old-school classy and luxurious, rather than ‘haha’ quirky, which work so well with the nostalgic typography on his bottle labels - quite a feat when one considers the DIY levels of production of his brand. Derviche has got to be one of the most beautiful appellations for a Middle Eastern-inspired Oriental, the euphoric headiness of precious woods melding with a nimbus of apple-flavoured shisha smoke. There may be a strong resemblance to Ambre Narguile - for all of five minutes, but from there on Ambre Narguile diverges into a slightly deeper, possibly more complex territory, though not necessarily more beautiful. To me Ambre Narguile starts to resemble baked Christmas goodies, along with that dense, almost chewy sensation of ginger bread and for some reason just bread in general - it’s strangely yeasty. Derviche, meanwhile, never for a moment abandons its Turkish roots; it is a distinctly Arabic confectionery house, turning out far lighter treats: crisp baklava and pillowy Turkish delight galore, sprinkled with almonds and nuts, drenched in syrupy orange flower water. If there is such a thing, it might be a gourmand-oriental. In terms of how it shifts on my skin, it works very much like Shalimar - The citrus and civet contribute a virile punchy opening, before the lush legato of the boozy vanilla comes sweeping in, producing, to me at least, the most beautiful part of the experience, a bit like the famous Der Rosenkavalier overture.

I became introduced to this house for one reason, I wanted retro fragrance with a modern edge that used real non IFRA approved Oakmoss like the ones I grew up with. While I have ventured deeper into this house through purchase of the Rogue Sampler set (15 count) I discovered that I had been very shallow in my aspirations with Rogue . Long story short I ended up buying Derviche which contains absolutely no Oakmoss but contained Amber, Tobacco and Leather amongst the flowery/fruity notes. The last fragrance I need in my collection is one connected with Tobacco or Leather as probably more than half my entire rather large fragrance wardrobe consists of fragrances with these notes. However , in spite of the Tom Ford's, Parfum de Marly's , Xerjoff's and the many other quality fragrances with Leather, Amber and Tobacco I found this one to be very unique and alluring with the indolic antique jasmine,the cherry like leather opening, the vanilla, labdanum and musk set this one apart and I was captured by it. I went from roll on sample to a 75ml bottle I liked it so much. What I do not get from this one is the Civet and I do know Civet as I have a few fragrances with it. It is just not there, not on my skin, not to my nose. Puzzled. Derviche' has absolutely nuclear performance and range so one spray or you will be consumed by the fragrance. You have been warned.

Oh, yes, this is more like it! Nice work, Manuel. A warming, alcoholic crème brûlée (creamy vanilla, burnt sugar) but made with nitromusks for extra oomph. Dee-licious. There's a clarity about its cosiness though. It is never cloying or sickening - it's perfectly balanced...like a Guerlain! Perfect for romantic close encounters and for loving. It starts with a battle between the sharp bergamot, jasmine and some delicious nitromusks. (I do solemnly declare that nitromusks are some of the best things I've ever smelled.) I can fully appreciate why so many fragheads are annoyed at IFRA. They are utterly heavenly - bright and shiny and elevate it all to another level. Then the musks, vanilla, and the tobacco/cinnamon combo all pull in different directions, but it's one that contrasts and works. Once it dries down, it coalesces into the most heavenly concoction - the Holy Trinity of perfumes - heavy with milky lactones with a coconutty or roasted hazelnut accord and a light dusting of cinnamon. Towards the end, there are hints of body odour but it's the good kind - the new, spicy underarm sweat of a lover rather than week-old unwashed clothes. Thank you very much, Mr Rogue Perfumes.